Wood or metal?

steve from ohio

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Aug 1, 2008
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I'm building a water scoop that I have had in my head for a while. I've owned a lot of scoops in the past and all had metal handles.

My home brew scoop is going to be aluminum with a stainless lip. I am still up in the air about what to make the handle out of.

I hated the idea of having to keep a rope attached to the scoop in case I dropped it and was wondering if you guys with wood handles have the same problem?

I know wood floats but does it float enough to keep the handle in reach? Do you still have to have a rope tied to it as I do with my all metal scoops?
 

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S.S.Tupperware

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I Imagine the wood would float up right. I would like a replaceable wood one, since I seem to bend and break all the others...
 

stevemc

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I have all stainless scoops, but a friend has a sunspot scoop with a wood handle, and it stands upright and tip of handle is always out of water. Not sure if its floating or sitting on bottom though. I would think that scoop would keep it from floating. It is a pain if you let go of all stainless scoop, and its not tied to you. I like the floating handle thing. Those are used differently than a regular all stainless scoop. You push it in with your foot, and dont lever it up with the handle, only lift straight up. Its too much force on the mounting points and they will break.
 

JMW

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I really like the Sunspot, wooden handle floats upright, easy to grab when I let go. My number one choice when in the water. So definitely go with a wooden handle when building yours for water hunting.
 

Tom_in_CA

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It would depend on what type of wood and what type of metal we're talking about.

I have a wooden long handle scoop once, that I got as a hand-me-down from someone else, so I don't know what kind of wood it was. But it lasted YEARS and was lightweight to boot! Although it was only as thick around as a broom handle, you couldn't have broken it if you tried. And since I have an arm-cup with a pistol-grip (like a hip-mount type of set-up) for my scoop, believe me, I put a lot of torque on them. Therefore, I have to conclude, that different types of wood have different types of tensity, or whatever it's called. If you talk to a cabinet maker or wood-worker, they can probably tell you what types of the world's woods have the highest strength, relative to their weight. If you can determine which ones have the strongest density strengths, yet remain relatively light-weight, then go with that and you won't be disappointed.

HOWEVER, there's some space age metals that are great too. If you look at the the types of titanium alloys, & chromoly steel etc...., that they're using on high-end bmx and mountain bikes nowadays, that is the utmost in light weight, yet in-destructable. Not sure where you'd get just the raw material naked bar of such material (or just salvage it off an old bike you find at the dump perhaps :))
 

harleyroadangel

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Hi,

I know I am a newbie, but remember reading that some folks wrap a fun noddle around the metal shaft, so it floats. I work out with water barbells made of that stuff, and if it keeps me alfoat, I'm sure it would a scoop.....probably just a one foot piece.

Joy in fl
 

stevemc

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Yes, I have seen the noodle piece tie wrapped to a steel scoop, works good. The wood handle doesnt break when levering, the stainless steel scoop does. There is lots of lever action going on. If they made that scoop with a solid tube going up, like a shovel has, that would be better. Beat the handle in and forget about it. The handle is a shovel handle, so it should be able to handle just about anything. Yes, there are many very strong, yet still fairly light, durable woods, teak is a good one, mahogany is good, but they cost, and would have to be turned until they fit right. It is easier and cheaper to buy an ash or hickory handle already made that will last for years, with just ocaisional oiling with linseed oil/teak oil, that kind of thing.
 

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steve from ohio

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Aug 1, 2008
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stevemc said:
Yes, I have seen the noodle piece tie wrapped to a steel scoop, works good. The wood handle doesnt break when levering, the stainless steel scoop does. There is lots of lever action going on. If they made that scoop with a solid tube going up, like a shovel has, that would be better. Beat the handle in and forget about it. The handle is a shovel handle, so it should be able to handle just about anything. Yes, there are many very strong, yet still fairly light, durable woods, teak is a good one, mahogany is good, but they cost, and would have to be turned until they fit right. It is easier and cheaper to buy an ash or hickory handle already made that will last for years, with just ocaisional oiling with linseed oil/teak oil, that kind of thing.
I was up at Lowe's and found an ash post hole digger handle for less than $10.00. The total cost for this scoop so far is less than $50 and it is as large as my Beach Brute II. That ash handle is so stout that I doubt I could break it.

I may try the noodle idea later on if I think it is necessary. That sounds like a good idea.

I have seen some of the welds on the stainless scoops and they are mostly tig welded. The problem with the welds are that the welds were not done as well as they could have as they needed to use flux on the back side of the weld. Because sometimes they don't use flux, then the welds do not penetrate as well as they should. Using Solar Flux stainless flux would solve many problems with stainless scoops.

Now all I have to do is cut up the metal with my plasma cutter, weld it up and start scoopin. I'll post photos after I have completed the scoop. Should be done by Friday.
 

lacey333

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Oct 7, 2010
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I'd stick with the metal handle for strength! My aluminum floats fine for me and with out the bulk of a noodle! Just pull the grip off and grab a can of great stuff from lowes and fill the last 12 inches of the handle then put the grip back on quick and make sure you cover the hole in the end with a piece of duct tape as soon as you get it in place as the stuff will ooze out everywhere if you don't! your scoop will always stand up and wait for you!! :wink:

HH!

Mike
 

surfnturf

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lacey333 said:
I'd stick with the metal handle for strength! My aluminum floats fine for me and with out the bulk of a noodle! Just pull the grip off and grab a can of great stuff from lowes and fill the last 12 inches of the handle then put the grip back on quick and make sure you cover the hole in the end with a piece of duct tape as soon as you get it in place as the stuff will ooze out everywhere if you don't! your scoop will always stand up and wait for you!! :wink:

HH!

Mike

Great! I'm gonna try that! However my handle slips off often, will the great stuff help to glue the hand grip down when it drys?
 

stevemc

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lacey333

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Oct 7, 2010
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surfnturf said:
lacey333 said:
I'd stick with the metal handle for strength! My aluminum floats fine for me and with out the bulk of a noodle! Just pull the grip off and grab a can of great stuff from lowes and fill the last 12 inches of the handle then put the grip back on quick and make sure you cover the hole in the end with a piece of duct tape as soon as you get it in place as the stuff will ooze out everywhere if you don't! your scoop will always stand up and wait for you!! :wink:

HH!

Mike


Great! I'm gonna try that! However my handle slips off often, will the great stuff help to glue the hand grip down when it drys?


Yup, it will stick with the great stuff!

HH,

Mike
 

gravediggermax-vabeachva

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hey steve

i wanted extra long 5ft handle..............did the exact same thing u did. then i took them over to my wood turning buddy and had him make them rounder and fit to size............the 4 footers are just fine for damp and shallow water, but when i get out chest deep zone, 5ft is better...............at least i think it is better................U know opinions

fyi

kewl tickets now
.
.
 

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