Metal detecting advice

[Denarius]

As a newbie I've been collecting advice from a lot of threads over the last while trying to learn about metal detecting. I've been cutting and pasting and saving them on my computer. I'm going to post them here if that's cool. If anyone wants to add more please feel free. They are not well organized though.

 

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[Denarius]

If I had to choose only one "line" to hunt on my area beaches it would be what I call, "the bunker line". Now this is one my area beaches and beaches like them, but this line has been very consistent and productive for me. Basically this line is that stretch of sand where items are dragged back from the wet sand areas and also pushed into from the first wave-break trough. In other words, it is that "first steep edge" or first drop off between the wet sand and the first trough. A lot of items get forced into this bunker line from both directions. I see a lot of guys hunting the top of this bunker at low tide as they are walking the waterline but I never see any of them hunting the water side or inside slope of this bunker. However, this inside slope is where I find a large number of my quality finds. The dynamics of the beach make this a top spot to hunt because this is where the force of both the returning water and the incoming water meet. As a result, this entire bunker line just becomes a collection area for items that are being moved and pushed around by both these forces.

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Metal detecting for coins and jewelry on America's fresh- and saltwater- beaches, has never been more popular or profitable. Folks have been going to the beach, and losing their belongings in the sand and surf, since the beginning of time.

Today's metal detector manufacturers offer units specifically engineered for the surf and sand treasure hunter, and there's no shortage of beach equipment or accessories to choose from when you decide to dive in! Lets start by looking at the machines we use to find treasure on America's beaches.

Very Low Frequency and Pulse Induction metal detectors.

The first thing to determine is what type of water, or beach you will be hunting. Are you detecting in the saltwater and on wet ocean sand, or will you be hunting dry sand and freshwater lakes and river beaches? This is important because there are different metal detectors designed for fresh- or, salt- water use. For instance, a "VLF" or very low frequency type metal detector, works extremely well on dry sand and in fresh water. It does not work as well in saltwater, or on wet ocean-water beaches. In highly conductive saltwater conditions pulse induction, or "PI," metal detectors excel.

The VLF metal detector sends 12,000 - 60,000 radio waves per-second into the ground. When the radio waves hit something conductive - like an iron nail, gold ring, coin or aluminum pulltab, a magnetic field sets up around the object and a particular signal frequency is transmitted back to the detector's receiving coil. VLF metal detectors have the ability to "discriminate," or tell what type of metal they are seeing by "reading" the return signal frequency.

An iron nail for example, has a different frequency than a silver coin. The processor in the metal detector knows the difference between the two, and can be set to remain silent when seeing the nail. However, the radio waves bounce off everything that is conductive in the sand or water. This is why VLF detectors must be "ground balanced" to work effectively in highly mineralized soil, or on highly conductive saltwater beaches. You must tune or adjust the machine to see through the "fog," or white-noise created by the salt and iron in the sand or water you are detecting. Unfortunately, this usually leads to a loss of depth and stability.

A pulse induction or, "PI" metal detector, sends out hundreds of electric pulses-per-second, rather than thousands of radio waves. While PI metal detectors do not have the ability to discriminate between different types of metal, their powerful pulses go much deeper than the VLF signal, and eliminate the problem of mineral conductivity. A pulse induction detector measures the decay rate of the electronic pulses it sends out, and looks for anomalies.

The strong electronic pulse is not conducted by the salt in the water or the iron in the black sands. Think of a Navy ship "pinging" with its sonar for an enemy submarine. If there is nothing in the water the "ping" just continues on and fades out at the same measured rate. If the submarine is there, the signal decay is interrupted and bounces back to the sonar operator on the ship.

Most successful ocean-beach detectorists, own both types of detector. The land-based VLF unit is preferred in the dry sand blanket area because you can use discrimination to knock out iron and still achieve superior depth without loss of stability. The pulse induction machine is used on the wet ocean- and black- sands, as well as in the surf.

Beach and Water Hunting Equipment

Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.

Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!

Waders - Waders are the least expensive way to get into the surf at low tide. In most ocean beach situations, waders will only be serviceable to depths just above the knee due to wave action. Important things to look for in quality waders include weight; fabric thickness; flip out storage pockets; high-density neoprene booties (rather than heavy rubber boots); and a good wading belt should be included. Lightweight slip-on beach shoes can be worn over the neoprene booties.

Wetsuits - Fit is the most important factor when purchasing a wetsuit. You must try on the wetsuit, as every wetsuit manufacturer's size chart is different. Thickness is also important. The thicker the suit, the warmer. 'Smoothie' neoprene, stretches better and is warmer in windy conditions. Seams are also important. The types of seams used in a wetsuit differ greatly. An "Overlock" seam, is found on inexpensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever but it is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or a rash as it protrudes against the skin. A "Flatlock" seam, is a flat stitch that does not push into your skin like the overlock. It is not watertight, but does not cause as much of a rash or chaffing problem. The "Blindstitch," is a flat stitch that does not penetrate all the way through the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes. It is watertight which makes a tremendous difference. Blindstich seams are found only on more expensive wetsuits. Last but not least, wetsuit zippers - or closures, are extremely important. "Back-zip" suits are the most common type. Look for a sturdy metal zipper (rather than plastic), and thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent water flushes. You would look for the same qualities in a "Shoulder-zip" suit.

Footwear - There are dozens of choices when it comes to beach and water shoes, and many bargains to be found. Look for a shoe that meets your exact needs. It should be metal-free, and as light as possible without sacrificing your overall comfort. Beach hunters can spend four- to six- hours gridding the sand at their local beach. Comfort and breathability are extremely important.

Hat - Anyone who spends a lot of time on the beach knows the importance of a quality, long billed cap. There are several things to look for in a good beach detecting cap. Be sure the cap feels comfortable with your headphones and sunglasses on. A cap should be breathable, and offer a sun flap to protect the back of your neck.

Sunglasses - Eye protection should be a top priority while spending long hours in the sun. Extended exposure to reflected light and glare from sand and water can cause real discomfort, and even damage to your eyes.

Beach Detecting Strategies; When and Where to find treasure on the beach

The beach is divided into two-sections - The "Dry Sand" or blanket area, and the "Wet Sand" or swimming area. When detecting the dry sand areas, successful beach hunters "grid" individual sections of the beach. Start by choosing an area 50-feet long, by 50-feet wide.

First detect from the North to South. When you have detected the entire grid, turn 90-degrees and detect it again East to West. Moving slowly and methodically, you will be able to pass your coil over every inch of the 50-square-foot grid. Coins, watches, rings, bracelets, Ipods, cell phones, car keys - you'll find it all! The phrase to remember is "low and slow." Keeping your coil as low and flat to the sand as you can, while moving slowly enough to assure your sweeps overlap each other is the real key to success.

For tips on hunting the surf and wet sand I consulted with Rusty Henry. Rusty is a retired Navy "frogman," and an original Seal Team 2 member. He is a living metal detecting legend, and has been the Service Manager at Tesoro Electronics for 20-years. Rusty says rings and jewelry are lost in the water during both High, and Low tides. You can get to these treasures much more quickly during Low tide however.

"At Low tide, get into knee- to thigh- deep water to get to the jewelry that was lost at High tide by people swimming, frolicking, throwing Frisbees, footballs and such," says Rusty. "Look for streaks of Black sand on the beach at the waterline. These are always an indicator of where other heavy things like coins and jewelry will be deposited. Many beaches will only have Black sand streaks after a storm, or unusually heavy wave action. Storms uncover things that have been out of reach for many years as the sand gets ripped away. You have to act fast however during low tides, as a couple tide changes can start covering it all up again." Rusty says after a violent storm, look for hard clay patches that are showing and, "detect the small depressions that look like miniature potholes."

Before packing the vehicle with your beach gear and metal detector, be sure to check your local city and state rules and regulations. Many states and cities are now requiring you to possess a valid "Metal Detecting Permit," and have strict guidelines for detectorists. Along the "Treasure Coast" in Florida, you may detect the dry sand and shore only to the waterline because the state leases the water rights to treasure hunters (similar to gold claims). These waters are vigorously patrolled by the state. In New York, you must have a permit to detect the state-owned beaches of Long Island. The annual permit is good from Jan. 1 - Dec. 31, and costs US$40.00. The state parks like Jones Beach, and Robert Moses, are heavily patrolled. A ticket for detecting without a permit within a NYS park is US$165.00 - Do your research and have the permits and permissions required to be on the beach you will be hunting.

Whether on the dry sand or in the ocean surf, metal detecting the beach is one of the most rewarding experiences a treasure hunter can have. From pocket change and Ipods, to old coins, diamond rings and gold chains, America's beaches are living treasure troves. A healthy and heavenly place for the metal detectorist, and naturally replenished and re-seeded every spring and summer. So what are you waiting for? Let's hit the beach!

How Much Does it Cost?

The beginning beach hunter should expect to invest $500- $1,000.00 for the basic equipment needed to hunt the sand and surf. Here is a breakdown of the basic equipment needed, and the average retail cost (new):
Tesoro Vaquero (VLF) metal detector $450.00
Tesoro Sand Shark (PI, Waterproof) metal detector $580.00
Minelab Excalibur (BBS, Waterproof) metal detector $1,500.00
Reilly's Treasured Gold Pro Aluminum 6" Water Scoop $150.00
KellyCo Three-pocket Mesh Finds Pouch $20.00
Reddington Crosswater Waders with neoprene booties $100.00
Henderson 3/2mm XSPAN Super Stretch Wetsuit with 3mm Zipper Dive Boots $190.00
Eco UV Outdoor Hat $15.00
Speedo beach shoes $25.00
As Seen on TV Wrap Around Sunglasses $9.99
New York State Metal Detecting Permit $40.00
The reward and joy of finding your first gold or diamond ring - Priceless!

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[Denarius]

most beaches will have a clay layer - hard mud layer - a dense sand layer or rock layer under soft sand layer
so most stuff with get trapped on top of this layer - some beaches will have a few inches of soft sand to 5 feet of soft sand
some beaches i have hunted - have a little bit of each in different areas
storms will remove layers and bring old stuff to the top - some storms will bring more sand in

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Anyplace that has produced in the past or has the potential to produce good finds should always be searched from3 directions. You can think of them as "up and down", "side to side" and "angled". Different sites are laid out different so saying "N-S" won't necessarily apply but the concept is the same. You want to hit from different directions because postion or trash nearby can affect the signal one way but be clear another.

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Diamonds
One way is to breath on them, if they mist over for a few seconds they are diamonds. (this only really works on larger ones)
Also, if you hold the diamond over newspaper and can read the print through it, then it's a diamond.

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Get yourself a good long handle scoop. Pinpoint your target and put your foot at the end of your coil. Move your detector and place scoop at the tip of your foot and push it all the way down and scoop it up and then move it off to the side and re-check hole. Rinse and repeat.

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I typically use the pinpointer built into the AT Gold, placing the coil on the on the sweet spot and then I put the leading edge of the scoop at the back of the coil. I move the coil and dig towards the center of where the coil was.

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I myself am surprised that Im doing so well in the gold dept. But then again - if you look at my finds on the whole for this year -
Im doing good and breaking personal records in all kinds of depts. - silver coins for instance - I had some real good years in the past
But I would say I have found the most silver I found this year in the water - But I have seen guys post from Jersey as much as I have this year - they have found close to that and more in a day or 2 after a good storm in the wet/dry sand
Sinkers - I will have to re-weigh at the end of the year - but I think I have over 100 lbs of lead - probably 3 times the amount I ever got any previous year
those old brass bathing suit buckles - before this year - I probabaly had about 50 from past yrs combined (and I been at it a long time)- I think I may have 50 from this yr alone.
Silver jewelry is actually one category that Im about average - if not a little low - but not complaining
Reasons for my good year
#1 - I hooked up with Whydah - I had slacked off in past years in the water and was doing more land the last couple of yrs - especially in the Spring & Fall months I was going relic hunting more - he invited me to do some cold water hunting this yr - so he got my butt into the water ealier than I had in the last couple of yrs
He also brought me to a few sights - that I actually had circled in an old map book - on my to do list - but I never did
those first few spots I hit with him - got me on my roll - and I have thanked him more than a few times for the hunts
It has not been all one sided - he was rewarded for his kindness - first I took him to one of my spots that he got a heavy Cladagh gold at - another was the beautiful 5 diamond ring he got at another spot I used to go to often and then the 1+ carat engagement ring at another of my past good spots - just to name a few - so I have done good because of him and he has done good because of me and once again I will thank him - "Hey Bud - thanks!!!"
#2 - I started hitting more areas that others shy away from or just dont think to hit - defunct beaches for one - whole beaches that they no longer swim at or only swim at a smaller part of the original beach that they swam at in the early 1900's. I do my research and I get help from others now and then in the know that pass info on to me. I been hitting a lot of fishing areas that once were swimming areas way back when - a lot of guys dont want to hit all those sinkers and many think there is a lot of trash around there - if I have to find 30 sinkers to get one gold - I think its worth it and if you look at a lot of my hunts - thats just what I have done at some spots. I really dont believe I have found any more trash in the fishing areas than in swimming ones - most smart fisherman know better than to trash their fishing spots. Also a lot of hunters dont believe there is any thing worth finding in a fishing area - but I have heard of people throwing their wedding bands off levies and piers and see people throwing rocks off of these spots and have heard of stories of rings going too with the throw. (m sure some jewelry is lost by the penny throwers too.)
#3 - I have been going farther and farther out at spots - either with my mask & snorkel or my snuba system.
I never ever see anyone out where I am when I am hunting - When I met Whydah - he was wearing waders and so were most of the others I ran into- so they had from 4 feet in to the shallows covered - so I hit from 4 feet out - then Whydah picked up a wet suit and started coming out a little farther and I know he got some gold out at the 5+ foot area - Im a little taller than him and go out where all you'll see sometimes is 2 inches of snorkel sticking out - so I can still get out farther at some spots. At one beach I have gotten 4 gold out at my limits at low tide there and I know there has got to be more out farther. One of these days I will go there with a tank and see if Im right. I would say at least 12 of my gold - were retrieved from out as far as i could go with my snorkel.
#4 - A few beaches I hit old gold at - I had been there in the past - I brought Whydah to one spot and when I went out with my mask - I told him the bottom was changed - in spots where there were massive sea grass beds - it was now a desert. So items that were held in that grass that either sank thru it or were in it - were now uncovered - I found 13 gold at this one spot over about a area the size of 3 football fields - Whydah has gotten I think 5 or 6 from here too. There have been a few other spots like this - a few of the past Winter storms moved some stuff around - but guys that hunt in waders and dont wear masks or even that wear wet suits but dont wear masks - never would see that these areas were blown out. Most of these spots were writen off as being worked out. A few of these spots - I know hunters that live 10- 15 minutes away from them and one there is a dealer down the street.
#5 - I gave up going for the recent drops or hitting the popular places I used to hit where I used to get many drops every Summer. Reason being - the last few yrs I have seen more and more dry sanders jumping in the water. Forums are to blame for that - I'm guilty. Posting of finds and writing magazine stories I know have turned many land lubbers into wet butts. I used to have a hot spot that I always could count on a small handful of gold and pouch full of coins every year. There was a married couple that started hitting the beach about 5-6 yrs ago. They hit all the dry sand - I hit all the water and life was good. They started finding out that I was getting 10 gold to their 1 and a few yrs ago - the husband got into the water and my numbers were affected and I was getting like half of what I used to average there. Now the wife hits the water too and I have not been getting much nor has anyone else. They live in town and can hit there every day if they wish - I live 2 hrs away. I have done good where they wont and cant go there though - I just changed my strategy. I also have gotten goodies out deep there and knows theres alot more out there - just have to hope they both dont get dive training.
#6 - I hunt in all metal - at least 95% of the time if not more. I take out all the trash I can. Many times I find gold or coins next to or under trash. Trash that others discriminate, go around and in some cases have thrown back. I have mentioned a beach where at least one guy digs up deep can parts and throws them back - "they take up too much room in my pouch" his words. I have gone behind him and picked up the trash and have found gold under it - sometimes I find more trash under it. By hitting in all metal - I know that the only way I miss something is from sloppy swinging, the stuff is deeper than my machines reach (I know spots that if I had a machine that went 3 feet deep-Id clean up at them too - the old stuff is down at them), the waters were too rough to hit properly or the place was sanded in at the time. If I take out all the old trash - the only thing to worry about is the new trash. If I hit older areas and take out the trash and no one goes to this spot anymore - then eventually there's no trash. Im a big John Lennon fan - Imagine - imagine if all the people that hunted the water used PI's - how clean the waters would be?
#7 - I been working a bunch of rocky areas too. Most hunters (Lorraine excluded) dont like the rocks - whether on the wet sand or in the water. That is why she makes finds in her rocks and I make finds in mine. Either they dont like the wear and tear it takes on their coil( I need to post a pic of mine-wore thru the coil cover this yr) or they dont have the proper scoop or dont like the work it takes to dig in them. I try for it all, but I'll tell you there were targets I gave up on cause I just could not move the rocks, but I dont give up on many. I will drop down and move the rocks by hand if I can not with the scoop. Fanning helps a lot sometimes too. You can dislodge them sometimes with some powerful fanning. Some just dont want to put that much energy on the chance that they might have gold - odds are usually that it will be a sinker - depends on how committed you are - sometimes people think I should be committed when they see how hard I work sometimes for a target, but I have gotten gold doing it - sooo... #8 - Going deep - How many places had floating rafts or slides at your ponds, lakes or saltwater spots - I know of 100's in New England - and all but a few private ones up here are gone - most of these were out 6 feet or deeper at fresh water spots and even deeper at salt waters ones depending on the tides in that area. I have gotten gold out deep at some of these spots - I got many more to try. I have a lurker friend that after talking with me a few yrs ago - bought a hookah system to hit some old fresh water spots with - he practically has given up all other sorts of detecting - he has been making a killing detecting with it. He averages about 20-30 silver coins and always gets silver relig.medals along with other silver jewelry and gets a few nice gold now and then. i think he got like 20 gold at one pond - all out where there once was a raft. Going deep can be risky and price of unit or dive equipment can cost a few bucks - but with todays prices - he told me he had his unit paid off after about his 3rd trip out. I paid for mine just about as easy.
Im in it for the hobby - not to make a profit. I have fun most times I get out. I meet new people over the yrs, find some cool objects now and then, and yeah I get gold now and then (this year I got a lot of gold now and then). I would say I put the time in this year - some spots were real work. The only easy soft sand beach I hit was one or two in Mex. this year. Some of the first beaches me & Whydah hit this year - we needed sifters because of muck, shells or rocks. He can attest to how hard we worked sometimes and how far I go out to go where no man has gone before. Im sure he has seen me many times go under and wonder if I'll resurface. All I can say is its still out there - sometimes you need a kick in the pants (which is kind of what Whydah did for me) to get out there - sometimes you have to change things up - where you hit - how you hit - who you hit it with. Think out side the box now and then - you might be surprised. Hopefully I covered it all and maybe my words will help some.
May you all have good luck - hunt often and hunt safe.

 

[Denarius]

Gold prospectors and even diamond hunters have recognized this for centuries, that the heaviest and most dense items will always be found near, or on, some form of hard pack under these lighter and less dense surfaces. This same basic knowledge is even applied as they are actively panning or slucing or high-banking, etc. Shake all the collected material and then look for the heavier, more dense, pieces to be found at the bottom. This same concept is what makes our beaches so tough to hunt when there is a lot of soft wet sand over the harder packs, if you don’t get the recently lost items quickly they will get buried too swiftly and to deep for our detection And they will keep right on sinking until they reach a point where the substrate is as least as dense as they are. The more vibration and movement that takes place in these lighter surfaces the faster our denser items will pass through them. But take away all this soft wet sand and……well, I get excited just thinking about it!

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1) The steepness of the beach is proportional to the coarseness of the sand. fine sand, smooth hard beach.
2) Fine sand is more easily transported than coarse sand. Dunes are comprised of VERY fine wind blown sand. Coarse sand doesn't move easily!
3) On the treasure coast, because of all the CRAP! the corps of engineers has deposited on our beaches, we no longer have natural beaches
4) Soft sand (dirt) is probably recently deposited from wave action and doesn't contain much of anything valuable..metal is harder to transport.
5) The heavy stuff does indeed sink to the hardpan layer.
6) As the beaches erode, this hardpan layer becomes more readily accessible.

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1) Set your discrimination to iron only.

2) At low tide, restrict your hunt to wet sand, and GRID from the high water mark down to the water ankle deep, turn around, take a step to the side, and detect back up to the high water mark overlapping your swings. DO NOT just walk up or down the beach at the water line.

3) At high tide, concentrate on the towel line, or the dry sand where people lay out to sun just above the high water line. Choose an area 50' x 50' and grid the dickens out of it.

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TH is correct in regards to the amount of sand on the east coast right now, and to make matters worse, it's all pretty much soft sand, so with a single tide change heavier items can get deeper much faster. To give you an idea of what you're dealing with, there are areas on my local beaches where the shell pack is normally fairly shallow, but right now even the shallowest shell pack areas have three feet of soft wet sand over them. Think of it as being quicksand because it pretty much has the same effect on the heavier items we're wanting to find. Same goes for the troughs between the bars, a lot of deep soft sand in them at present. Problem is, the beach may look the same from one day to the next but it isn't and as this soft sand gets shifted and giggled around at high tide heavier items continue to slip deeper. But there is a positive to all this that you need to keep in mind. Once this sand starts getting pulled back out, and the winter tides will eventually achieve this, there's going to be "a lot" of targets to be had. When you start finding green/red coins, tarnished lead weights, heavier pieces of scrap iron, etc.,.......get excited and start covering every inch

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This may be a little pretentious, but... make sure your metal detector is low to the ground. When I started I was about three inches off of the ground. When another kind metal detector told me to lower it I started getting an expotential increase in targets. When I detect now my detector pretty much scrapes the top of the sand.

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Sounds to me like you've got most of it down. A few things and a couple more:

Work the out going tide as much as possible. The beach is a kinder gentler place on a receding tide. The two hours before low is best. Working through the low into an hour or two of incoming also works.

If there are no obvious low spots or cuts on the beach start by working a W pattern up and down from the mid or high tide line down to the water. This will establish a find line. Once established grid above and below that line.

Go where the people go. Don't waste time searching deserted beaches. That is, unless those beaches were used generations ago.

Don't disc anything but iron. Much of the bling is found at the same freq as the trash. Some very succesful hunters work in all metal. Why pay for all the electronics to disc out the iron and not use it? Well, the machine can see deeper once all the limiters are off. So, while you'll get more bobbi pins at 18 inches than gold, you will get the gold if it's there.

Lastly, slow down! If you aren't walking slow, make it the rule!!

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position your coil low, almost "kissing" the sand. Also - go very slow. Don't rush your swings, you're not playing golf, after all. I've heard of some MDer's who take 30 seconds to complete one swing of the coil. If you are detecting too fast, you will miss targets. As others have said, pick an area of the beach and grid the heck out of it. Don't try to MD the whole beach, detect small sections at a time very thoroughly

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You see on your tide chart it says next Spring tide is Oct 15th, well that will be a very low low tide. Spring tide is when the sun and moon are rising and setting together and have more pull on the tides. Try to work the sring tides hard, a few days before and after it will have lower than usual lows. Also if you find lead sinkers and lots quarters, it seems you are in a good area. You can find an area that has old coins and lead and other heavy metal, stay and work that area. You will notice a scallop of the beach, where the waves have eroded away the beach, these are good. I was up in Savannah GA Christmas time last year and hunted the island out there at very low tide. I found nothing while way out near the water, not even trash, worked all around, and finally started finding coins, most corroded way up by the sea oats. All at least a foot down. About every foot. All I found was a lot of corroded modern coins. Defintly above the high tide zone but wetsand. You just have to keep working it to see a pattern. Also if you see shells piling up, you will usually find aluminum can parts , pulltabs, and maybe zinc pennies. Light weight stuff. Look for areas of gravelly looking or at least heavier than normal sand. But you never know what might be there.. Sometimes it pays to know what different beaches do in certain weather conditions. Some erode, and some pile up in a certain wind and nwaves. It pays to check out many beaches, not just the closest to your house. Where I live there are some beaches that get hit hard, and the people will work right to the edge of the public beach, in the water and land. They seldom go past the lifeguarded zone ends. Go where you dont see a person detecting every day. Try to find places that are never hit. Bayside beaches, islands that people go to, walk a way down a beach to get away from where is always detected. Where you can drive on the beach or along it, do that and find places where people go. Tiny beach accesses. Oh, you can hunt in all metal or pin point, but you can switch back to disc to see if it is iron. But iron will mask gold, especially if the iron is large or close to the surface.. In a good area like I wrote about where you are finding quarters and lead , and jewelry, a nice hole, you might dig up iron, because it may be hiding gold jewelry, I have seen it.

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The PI's love long tiny pieces of iron too so you could dig deep holes for hairpins. This is one of the reasons Excals are so popular because they disc out small iron and still report on good targets near by unlike other detectors.

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Years ago I replaced all the brass coil bolts to nylon and moved the coil wire up the shaft straight up the side to also cut water resistance. Now all the manufacturers are using nylon bolts and nuts. The coils are made to find metal, right? I can't even wear my fishermen wading boots because they have brass nails.

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I can't attest to other Florida east coast beaches, but with the existing storm surge, moon phase, a dangerous currents, I doubt you could even see the lower beach erosion yet, but I'm betting it's there. On my local beaches there doesn't appear to be much erosion either from say high beach to mid-beach, but the lower beach has really been cut, battered, and rearranged. One way to tell is to watch the surf, in some areas you will see frequent violent wave collisions from opposing directions, mark these areas in your memory because that area of the lower beach and the adjacent bars are taking a beating. Another thing to look for are rips, and if you are very familiar with a particular beach you should be able to spot the new rips, log these areas in your memory as well because that area of the lower beach is also being cut and reshaped. Closer then usual long currents is another sure sign of an area of beach that is being cut and reshaped. Twisting or swirling currents are also another sure sign. The upper and mid-beach area of a large/long expanse of sand my look fairly flat and routine at low tide at first glance, but over a wide distance, say 50 to 75 feet or more, the loss of a foot of slope often isn't noticeable by the naked eye without some sort of known marker due to the higher then usual surge and comparatively narrower beach being viewed as the whole. If you can't access the lower beach then try that area of beach just above the locations I mentioned. At roughly the start of mid-beach you should start encountering colored and crusty coins, lead fishing weights, and hopefully some really nice goodies, yet you may find very little on the upper beach. As the surge continues to diminish just keep following the beach down and hopefully within a few days you'll be able to safely access those cuts and holes on the lower beach before they get filled back in.

PS: These harsh surf conditions have been sustained for several days so I guarantee you the sand has been moved and that some areas of the beach have been drastically reshaped. I've spoken with several hunters in the past few days from Vero to Jacksonville and they are all reporting signs of erosion in the lower beach areas and some of them are already finding goodies and expecting to find more.

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I'm 5' 8", only 140lbs soaking wet, and surf hunt the beaches of Florida's surfing capital. Here's some more tips....

1) A large "heavy" scoop is a big advantage. The heavier the scoop the easier it is to get into position and keep it there. I use to use aluminum scoops but they simply move to easy in the currents which makes them harder to control.

2) Time your digging effort. I do this "a lot"....sometimes forcing my scoop into the bottom but then waiting until the swells have passed before trying to retrieve the target. If I get blown off location the scoop usually stays anchored in position allowing me to easily find it again, and the anchored scoop also helps me stay in position during the passing of swells. Usually there will be a slack period between swells, that's when you make your move. This is one time when patience is a true virtue.

3) Body position....I never attempt to snatch a target with my back to the swells. Much easier to hold location when you know what you're going to be working against.

4) Above all, and as others have already suggested, master the blind scooping method on the wet sand or shallow water before you ever attempt hunting in the swells. Where I hunt the water is so disturbed you couldn't see the bottom a great deal of the time so it's vital that you can center your target and then retrieve it blind.

5) Like everything else, the more time and effort you put into it the easier it will become, However, on the average day there will still be a fair amount of targets that never come easy. Just the nature of the elements you're hunting.

6) Gold, Platinum, Silver,...such as rings, chains, bracelets, earrings,....very dense items with small surface areas so they usually don't get moved all that easily. Coins, aluminum, scrap and slaw tend to move around on you much more easily.

PS: I use the large stainless Stealth scoop. Hated it at first but love it now simply because it is heavy and easier to control in the swells.

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I do as OBN and time my digging to the wave or swell roll. I also mark my target with my scoop when wave is hitting me so I dont lose target, as long as my scop doesnt move I can get back on it quickly.....If the wave is moving the target and not moving you then there is a very good chance the target is can slaw or something else light...

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There's something spookily different and interesting about my new White's Surfmaster Dual Field ... it finds Gold with an almost ridiculous regularity!

 

[Denarius]

Casper & Gary D. A enlightening comparison?

Both have had great success this year, however, there is a very interesting and enlightening comparison when we take a closer look at these two success stories. One of these hunters uses the CZ-21, a deep, powerful VLF machine. The other hunter uses the new CTX3030, a sensitive, precision machine. Casper found a lot of chunkier gold this year, Gary has found a lot of finer, less dense gold this year with routinely higher K’s. Both are/were regularly hunting in the saltwater environment. Both are hunting in regions with constant competition. Both are obviously doing something different then most hunters. I think there is a great deal to be learned here in this comparison.

To be honest, like a few other hunters I was beginning to question the number of finds Gary was posting recently but I am no longer questioning them. I do believe he has found every piece just as he claims. For most of us we have too easily traded sensitivity for depth. Casper is generally hunting beyond where most hunters venture, his access to chunkier gold allowed to happen more frequently simply because of the lack of competition. The CZ is deep and it is saltwater friendly, and it is a monster on chunkier, denser gold objects. Casper is also hunting over typically firmer bottoms which helps to prevent these heavier targets from sinking all the way to China. Casper has a great hunting strategy in face of the competition and it is awarding him well.

Gary, on the other hand, is unjustly facing a few skeptics right now. Why is he finding so much gold in face of the competition? Yep, it’s hard to believe, but then again, maybe not. I have a 1.5 gram gold cross that is very flat and thin. I can’t read this cross at all with my CZ, can’t read it with the Excal and WOT coil, can only barely read it with the Excal and 8” coil and only at a couple of inches, if that. The Sov. GT with the 8” coil can read it a bit deeper. Toss this cross into the sand and saltwater mixture and the Excal with 8” coil will only offer you a tic or two. People have been wondering why Gary isn’t finding a lot of typical bands and the simple answer is because everyone else can detect these. When we ask why everyone else isn’t finding the finer, higher K gold that Gary is routinely finding the answer is simply because most other hunters can’t detect them. Unfortunately, with VLF machines, depth and sensitivity are not close friends. Gary simply hunts slowly and methodically with the most sensitive setup he can. Like Casper, an excellent strategy in face of the competition. A lot to be learned from both successes and I am slowly trying to soak it all in so I can apply it all to my own hunting efforts.
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When beach hunting the water line here in Florida I always start by walking from the dunes to the water several times. This helps me identify where metal trash has gathered then I go parallel with the water in this trashy zone. Find the trash and you'll find the treasure.
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You have to find the spots where the "flow sand" has been moved out, and there are rocks/shells mixed with the sand. If the sand is soft, the targets are deep.
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One other thing that will help you to learn your machine is to build you a target garden. Have differnt coins at different depth in , well a garden lol if you will be doing beach detecting make you a 10'x10' area dif about a foot deep and fill it in with sand. Or just use the dirt you have and bury targets. Mark them so you know what is where and at what depth and then play with your machine with the different settings until you get to know your machine and fine tune it.
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if you are on sandy bottom and every so often you see all the small pebles grouped togeather check there the sea grades things by weight , so light sand with light sand and eventualy rings with small stones
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I have found rings in the dry sand, wet sand and in the water. Depending on the tide variation in your area high to low, if there is little tide variation, then in the water is the place to hunt. Water, suntan lotion and oops rings slip off. In my opinion you need a waterproof machine to be able to detect in all the areas where things are lost. $300 is not enough.. For $700, you can get a Tesoro Tiger Shark that can do land or water and is sensative on gold, but the descrimination is minimal so you nearly have to dig it all. For about the same you can Get a Tesoro Sand Shark PI and dig it all but get deeper targets. There are lots of detectors with varing degrees of bells and whistles to assist in reducing waisted time digging stuff you are not looking for. Minelab Excalibur II is a good choice for performance in and out of the water with discrimination and exclusion of most iron. I think the the price is around $1400. For $2,000 plus you can get a Minelab CTX that does everything but dig up the gold for you... Each detector has its place. If you are looking for your own lost ring only, and you think you know where it is, you can go cheap but if you think this is something you want to do as a long term hobby with substantial rewards, than I would go as high tech as you can squeeze into your budget, that way, you might not end up with 5 detectors like me.. I now own a CTX 3030 along with several others. In time, (if I use it) I am sure the CTX will pay for itself. Good luck in your search for your lost ring and a detector to find it with. (in actuality, I would prefer that you NOT get a CTX 3030 because when I come to the Bahamas to hunt, I want there to still be stuff to find.) Happy Hunting, Papa
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If hunting in salt water beaches, you need either Minelab Excallibur at $1500 or pulse machines, Whites Duel Field at $850, or Tesoro Sand Shark at $650 to hunt water, and wet sand. On dry sand any detector worth it's cost is good. Excallibur discriminates out iron, something the pulse machines will not do, but they will find deeper targets. All three are waterproof machines which is what you need at any salt water beach if you want to venture out of the dry sand.
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Here is MY opinion Hogfish. Tesoro Sand Shark for IN the water and on WET saltwater sand. Yes, you WILL dig it all, but you'll also find deeper and MORE gold than you will with ANY multi-frequency VLF (Minelab Excalibur/Fisher CZ). You will need a single-frequency VLF machine for the dry sand, and there you will get the same performance from a $170.00 Tesoro Compadre, as you would from a $1,400.00 Minelab Excalibur. Check this out!

The quest for the perfect metal detector to this point has been quixotic. Minelab, has come the closest to building a fully submersible beach machine that can discriminate out iron in wet sand and saltwater. The “Excalibur” uses Broad Band Spectrum, or “BBS” technology, and retails for about $1,400.00.

According to Minelab, their BBS operating system, “simultaneously transmits, receives and analyses a broad band of multiple frequencies to deliver substantial detection depth, high sensitivity and accurate discrimination for a wide range of target types.” The key takeaway here is “multiple frequencies.” Unfortunately, radio waves regardless of their frequency still have to be filtered and balanced in heavily conductive wet-ocean sand and highly mineralized saltwater. That limits the systems depth capabilities.

Single frequency VLF machines (Very Low Frequency), have even more limitations in the harsh saltwater environment. Take for example the Tesoro Lobo Super Traq. This VLF single frequency machine (17.9Khz) is one of the finest and deepest gold nugget finders on the market today. The Lobo Super Traq, is capable of finding BB-sized gold nuggets eight-inches deep in heavily mineralized ground, or a nickel in dry beach sand at 14-inches. Put that same nugget – or even the nickel, seven-inches deep in wet saltwater sand and the Lobo could walk right over it while chattering, or maybe without seeing it at all. Why?

The magnetic iron sands (“Black Sands”), salt, and high concentrations of other minerals in the water and sand conspire to bounce the radio waves away from the target. Conductivity and mineralization act like a shield around the target and create white noise that must be filtered electronically. Think of it as turning on your bright headlights in a heavy fog at night. All that powerful light is diffused and causes a complete white out – you can’t see anything three-feet past the hood of your car! However when you turn on your yellow fog lights, you can see a little further – not as far as you could in clear daylight, but further. That is why all radio wave machines must be “ground balanced” or tuned, to maximize their depth potential, and why BBS filters and multi-frequencies are so effective – yet still limited.

Unlike BBS and VLF metal detectors, which constantly send and receive thousands of low frequency radio waves per second, a Pulse Induction (PI) metal detector fires high-voltage pulses into the sand several hundred times per second. If no metal is present the electric pulse decays at a uniform rate with no anomalies. When metal is present a small “eddy” current flows through it causing the voltage decay time to increase, which creates a measurable anomaly. Unlike VLF radio waves, electronic pulses are impervious to the effects of conductivity and mineralization, and are unaffected by salt or black sands.

PI metal detectors give the user superior depth capabilities in all metal detecting situations and soil conditions. Using the same heavy fog at night metaphor that I referred to earlier, pulse induction is like headlights that cut completely through the fog as if it were not there at all. The trade-off for that added depth and clarity is the inability to discriminate, or block out iron targets that you generally don’t want to waste time and energy digging. While a pulse induction machine detects all metals without discrimination, the minute differences in the signal tone and quality can give a skilled and experienced operator a clue as to what the target may, or may not be.

Will one machine do it all? Not in my opinion. I always advise new beach metal detecting hobbyists to have a VLF machine for dry sand (as well as their other dirt detecting needs), and a PI machine for the water and wet-sand (and deep farm field and relic hunting). In truth, it all comes down to what you prefer and can afford. Good Luck!
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Put the center of the coil over the target. move the coil back and forth, forward and back until you find the loudest point which should be the center, or if it is loud all over, and you move the coil 10" for a 10" coil before you loose the signal, then the target is shallow and hitting all across the coil. In either case, put the center of the coil over the target and then your right foot right behind the coil. Now you know the target is about 5" in front of your toe. Move the coil to the side, and put your scoop at the end of your toe and dig straight down. Scoop, check hole and repeat until the target is out of the hole and in the scoop. Happy Hunting,
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Pinpointing with the Excal is pretty simple. You "don't" use the center of the coil as with most other machines. Simply swing left to right over the target as you move the coil back, when you lose the signal the target should be centered just ahead of the front center of the coil. (Some do this in reverse and use the back of the coil.) Also, start your scoop a bit further back, if you start too closely the angle of the scoop will often pass over deeper targets.

 

[Denarius]

Re: recipe for cleaning coins

I have used a number of different recipes over the years and I have found the simplest way is to throw in a soap pad like Brillo or a cheap store brand. This added to a little water and gravel will clean and polish the coins without any additional expense. Also, the polishing effect will prevent the clad from turning the nickles pink if you tumble them together.
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scan the beach for any low spots or ones holding embedded rocks and shells
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Here what I've learned over the years::
You will find a bunch of junk.
You will find nothing.
People will talk to you.
Kids will watch you and ask questions and will likely follow you around for a bit.
No matter how tempting, say your best finds have been coins.
In the unlikely event you find something of value, be discrete, and have a hidden place to pocket it.
Objects tend to group together on the beach, if your in an area and you find something comb the area well and from multiple.
In the dry sand objects will tend to be concentrated near the "towel line".
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Dont forget to drag your scoop behind you so you don't scan the same ground twice.
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Pretty well a one handed job. Lot depends on the size of your scoop.... plan on getting a GOOD scoop with the understanding you are going to move a lot of material with the first scoop. I alway move the target to the tip of my coil.... then use the back of my coil as a guage putting my foot there then putting my scoop in just front of my foot. Also a little trick.... if you missed the target.... give it a second, targets on the side tend to move toward the center as the hole fills back in. Its an ackward process at first.

Dew
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I pinpoint target with coil, put my toe at back of coil and that is where I start my scoop like Ron said...
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Like Treasure Hunter said, find target with coil and place foot near coil and scoop where coil was and scoop. Its a learning thing and not all of us do it the same way. When it is in your scoop, just take it out without doing the Happy Dance an squirrel it away like it was trash as people are watching you. Look at it later.
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Less is more. Machine, scoop, finds bag, bottle of water, wallet or money clip. That's it. carry no more.
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An Interesting Transition on the East Coast

As summer arrives and progresses, “the beach grows”. In the winter the beach is narrower, but as summer arrives and progresses the beach grows wider, meaning that the low tide waterline moves further out. Just how great of an effect is this? Consider the following:

Over a period of several weeks there will be so much summer sand pushed onto the beach that the first trough will get completely filled in, a trough that is anywhere from 4 to 6 feet deep and up to 50 feet wide in spots at low tide. Once this trough is filled in the second trough then becomes the first trough. This should give you an idea of just how far out the low tide waterline moves during this summer transition. It’s pretty amazing when we stop to consider just how much sand it takes to accomplish this.

But what is even more amazing is the effect this transition has on the throngs of beach-goers enjoying the beach and the effect it has on our beach hunting. As this waterline continues to move further out so does that swimming line. As the first trough continues to fill in the second trough gradually starts to become the favored play area for the adult population, or treasure-wearing crowd. So in essence, the treasure sources we seek also start to move further out at the same pace of this beach widening. And this is where the real problem begins to arise for us.

“Surf, Surges, & Current”….in the beginning of summer we can easily access the first trough and lower beach at low tide because the summer currents are typically much milder “close to shore”. However, once the waterline moves further out into that second trough area these currents and surges aren’t quite as mild and that second trough is also typically deeper. To compound our difficulties - that portion of the lower beach that we can easily access is now covered in deep layers of soft fluffy sand and there is also less activity there to provide those heavier drops, which when dropped they tend to sink away quickly in the layers of soft fluff like a lead sinker in pudding. For the summer treasure hunter this seasonal transition creates quite the dilemma. “Timing is everything now.”

Now more then ever those monthly tides charts become an extremely important tool of the trade. Sure, you can hope for those strong whether systems that might never come or you can take what is certain and then plan your hunts according that information and those opportunities. It's’just all part of the summer dilemma being faced. Anyway, what you will see on those tide charts are monthly periods of "peak” high tides, or those periods that will be delivering an increased amount of water volume on the lower beach for several days. During these short but effective periods a couple of important things will take place. First, this extra water volume will usually create increased currents along the lower beach area, which in turn has the tendency to move a lot of sand around and create a lot of features like cuts, holes, runnels, rips, etc., all features that require “the removing of sand” from select areas of the lower beach. This removal of sand creates opportunities for use to access those deeper, heavier goodies that we can’t otherwise access. And second, these increased currents also have the tendency to force the throngs of water loving adult beach-goers back to the lower beach area where those features we spoke of are being created.

So the trick is this: find those newly formed features during this monthly peak high tide period and get in them at low tide and your finds should see a marked increase. The treasure is always there but knowing when and where it can be accessed is often the difference during those sandy hunts of summer.

Hope this helps a little.
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The first thing I do when I get to a new beach I have never been on is watch the People on and in the water. I watch to see what kind of Bling they have on , I watch the water to see where the waves are crashing that show you where the sand Bars are and on if there is a troff. If this doesn't help, then you are on your own. Good luck HH
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At the beginning of spring/summer the first trough is usually still in place and fairly deep, the water is also colder, so this is where most adults play because there is still plenty of depth and surf. Lots of items will be lost here.

As summer progresses this first trough begins to fill in, the water continues to get warmer, and the surf in this first trough begins to subside. Soon you start seeing beach-goers extending their beach play to the first sandbar and the edge of the second trough - where the waves are larger and "more darn fun." Lots of items will be lost here.

Now it's summer and here come those beloved low-low tide cycles, the sun is blazing hot and the water is inviting and warm, the first trough is nearly completely filled in and it has now become a kiddy-pool, the first bar and second trough is now the main adult beach, or what Treasure Hunter lovingly refers to as, "The second beach". "Lots" of items will be lost here during the summer.

Throughout all of this the sand continues to roll in, layering the upper beach, creating broad heaps above the waterline (which is why runnels form) and it creates deep fluffy bottoms in the troughs. Steady east winds only help to aid this summer effect.

Some things you will notice as this summer transition continues - where's all the shells? In the spring and early summer it was common to see larger shells scattered about on the beach and laying in the troughs, but where are they now? Shells are fairly light with large surface areas and most of them are easily pushed around in the currents....so where did they all go? What source of magic has apparently caused them all to disappear? The answer, "blame it on the deep sand." If you are a water hunter you were probably encountering a fair amount of lead fishing weights early in the season, and now? And what about all those crusty pennies and coins, where did they all go? And what about all those pull tabs? Good lord, look at all the people on the beach now that summer has arrived and you mean to tell me that none of them are losing anything? Sure, they're losing all kinds of stuff each and everyday, just at they have all summer long and will continue to do. The problem is the sand, all that deep, soft, fluffy sand. It has, in effect, swallowed up everything in sight, and it will just keep getting hungrier and hungrier as the summer season progresses.

Sand, for every inch of sand that gets removed from "any section" of beach your chances improve. Remove just a little sand and your chances improve just a tad bit. Remove a lot of sand and your chances greatly improve. So any factor, i.e., wind, higher tides, a change in the direction of current flow, etc., is important now. All that treasure, shells, fishing weights, coins, etc., they're all accumulated under that deep summer sand.

 

[Denarius]

Erosion is the key with beach hunting, look for places where the sand has been eaten away.
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This was my snorkelling method (up to 4ft of water) once I realised I had a hot spot;

I set a rope on the seabed from the shore line (just below low tide) to approx. 80ft out, at 90' to the shoreline.
I weighed this down with rocks so was invisible should anyone come by, but set a marker at high tide so I could find it.
this was my "edge of search and guide" rope.

I then snorkelled from the shallows to as deep as I could, following this rope, the back in again, using the rope a s a visual guide, and moving a little way off it each time. - the rope keeps you in a straight line each time.

when I got too far to see the rope, or at the end of the day, I set another on my last "run" - now I have two ropes parallel to each other and I KNOW the area between them is clear!!

next time, start again, using the last rope you laid as a guide, and when finished, take the FIRST rope, and leapfrog it over to your finishing point for the day - that way, you always have two ropes on the sea bed and know the area between them has been searched.

I also bought waterproof GPS (garmin 62stc**) which I started towing behind me on the surface on a small float - each time I made a find I popped my head up, pressed the "MARK" button (this marks a WAYPOINT automatically) and continued on - at the end of the day, not only could I see my "track" for the day (and see any areas missed) but noticed smaller hot spots of finds - from this I was able to determine a definitive "arc of finds" which I am currently following -
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90% of all targets are found in the troff, or the area between the beach and the sandbar.
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Well, I think the jury (for me) is finally in as far as dealing with all this summer sand. In my opinion, and based on several weeks of alternating coils (big VS small) it appears the larger coil provides a decided advantage both in and out of the water once those deep summer sands roll in. It isn’t so much a matter of depth or sensitivity, but rather it is a matter of recent drops and greatly improved “total coverage”. Keep in mind that I’ve been alternating between the 8” and the 12 x 15 SEF. (Side note: Sometimes when water hunting the current is just to swift to allow for the 12 x 15 and the 8” is the only coil option. But other then these short periods the larger coil was still alternated in usual routine.)

Gold has been, and still continues to be elusive regardless of the coil used, but the silver count with the 12 x 15 is easily three or four times the amount VS the 8” coil. In the water I’m not really covering larger amounts of area with the larger coil because the coil has to be swung much slower (and very smoothly) then the 8” in order to maintain decent depth and sensitivity, however, that larger coil is covering every inch of the total area of water hunted. So in the water it’s just a matter of complete total coverage while still maintaining a sufficient amount of depth and sensitivity. Stepping out of the water and onto the wet sand the larger coil then provides the ability to cover more wet sand area in the same amount of time, nearly twice as much, and with increased depth and sufficient, if not somewhat surprising, sensitivity at times.

The main drawbacks to the larger coil are rough and uneven bottom conditions and the obvious increase in drag when water hunting The other drawbacks to the larger coil are the turbulence factor, something the larger coil is very sensitive to, and the last drawback is when encountering step drops and sharp slopes. All of the above mentioned conditions provide obstacles that can, and often do, effect the performance and the efficiency of the larger coil. And of course, trashy areas or areas with a lot of iron deposits can also make for some troublesome hunting with the larger coil.

So for me, and on my area beaches, the larger coil gets the nod once those deep sands of summer arrive whenever conditions allow for its use.
--------------------------------

 

[Denarius]

Happy reading

 

[CASPER-2]

"Casper & Gary D. A enlightening comparison?

Both have had great success this year, however, there is a very interesting and enlightening comparison when we take a closer look at these two success stories. One of these hunters uses the CZ-21, a deep, powerful VLF machine. The other hunter uses the new CTX3030, a sensitive, precision machine. Casper found a lot of chunkier gold this year, Gary has found a lot of finer, less dense gold this year with routinely higher K’s. Both are/were regularly hunting in the saltwater environment. Both are hunting in regions with constant competition. Both are obviously doing something different then most hunters. I think there is a great deal to be learned here in this comparison.

To be honest, like a few other hunters I was beginning to question the number of finds Gary was posting recently but I am no longer questioning them. I do believe he has found every piece just as he claims. For most of us we have too easily traded sensitivity for depth. Casper is generally hunting beyond where most hunters venture, his access to chunkier gold allowed to happen more frequently simply because of the lack of competition. The CZ is deep and it is saltwater friendly, and it is a monster on chunkier, denser gold objects. Casper is also hunting over typically firmer bottoms which helps to prevent these heavier targets from sinking all the way to China. Casper has a great hunting strategy in face of the competition and it is awarding him well."

THANKS FOR PUT ME ON PEDESTAL
WHAT YEAR IS THIS - SOME OF MY PICS ARE LARGER THAN LIFE - OTHER THAN A FEW CLASS RINGS AND A COUPLE OF OTHERS - MOST OF MY RINGS ARE SMALL - AND A LOT ARE WHISPERS DOWN CLOSE TO 2 FEET AT TIMES - I HUNT SPOTS THAT OTHERS CRANK THERE DISCRIM UP AND THAT IS WHY I GET ALOT OF THE SMALLER OLD GOLD
I USED A WHITES PI PRO FOR ABOUT 10 YRS IN MY EARLIER WATER HUNTING DAYS
THEN CZ20 AND NOW 21s AND HUNT IN ALL METAL MOST OF THE TIME
JUST A SAMPLE HERE
http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/members/29748-albums.html

 

[Terry Soloman]

Since I wrote this, I would appreciate you telling people where you got it..

Metal detecting for coins and jewelry on America's fresh- and saltwater- beaches, has never been more popular or profitable. Folks have been going to the beach, and losing their belongings in the sand and surf, since the beginning of time.

Today's metal detector manufacturers offer units specifically engineered for the surf and sand treasure hunter, and there's no shortage of beach equipment or accessories to choose from when you decide to dive in! Lets start by looking at the machines we use to find treasure on America's beaches.

Very Low Frequency and Pulse Induction metal detectors.

The first thing to determine is what type of water, or beach you will be hunting. Are you detecting in the saltwater and on wet ocean sand, or will you be hunting dry sand and freshwater lakes and river beaches? This is important because there are different metal detectors designed for fresh- or, salt- water use. For instance, a "VLF" or very low frequency type metal detector, works extremely well on dry sand and in fresh water. It does not work as well in saltwater, or on wet ocean-water beaches. In highly conductive saltwater conditions pulse induction, or "PI," metal detectors excel.

The VLF metal detector sends 12,000 - 60,000 radio waves per-second into the ground. When the radio waves hit something conductive - like an iron nail, gold ring, coin or aluminum pulltab, a magnetic field sets up around the object and a particular signal frequency is transmitted back to the detector's receiving coil. VLF metal detectors have the ability to "discriminate," or tell what type of metal they are seeing by "reading" the return signal frequency.

An iron nail for example, has a different frequency than a silver coin. The processor in the metal detector knows the difference between the two, and can be set to remain silent when seeing the nail. However, the radio waves bounce off everything that is conductive in the sand or water. This is why VLF detectors must be "ground balanced" to work effectively in highly mineralized soil, or on highly conductive saltwater beaches. You must tune or adjust the machine to see through the "fog," or white-noise created by the salt and iron in the sand or water you are detecting. Unfortunately, this usually leads to a loss of depth and stability.

A pulse induction or, "PI" metal detector, sends out hundreds of electric pulses-per-second, rather than thousands of radio waves. While PI metal detectors do not have the ability to discriminate between different types of metal, their powerful pulses go much deeper than the VLF signal, and eliminate the problem of mineral conductivity. A pulse induction detector measures the decay rate of the electronic pulses it sends out, and looks for anomalies.

The strong electronic pulse is not conducted by the salt in the water or the iron in the black sands. Think of a Navy ship "pinging" with its sonar for an enemy submarine. If there is nothing in the water the "ping" just continues on and fades out at the same measured rate. If the submarine is there, the signal decay is interrupted and bounces back to the sonar operator on the ship.

Most successful ocean-beach detectorists, own both types of detector. The land-based VLF unit is preferred in the dry sand blanket area because you can use discrimination to knock out iron and still achieve superior depth without loss of stability. The pulse induction machine is used on the wet ocean- and black- sands, as well as in the surf.

Beach and Water Hunting Equipment

Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.

Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!

Waders - Waders are the least expensive way to get into the surf at low tide. In most ocean beach situations, waders will only be serviceable to depths just above the knee due to wave action. Important things to look for in quality waders include weight; fabric thickness; flip out storage pockets; high-density neoprene booties (rather than heavy rubber boots); and a good wading belt should be included. Lightweight slip-on beach shoes can be worn over the neoprene booties.

Wetsuits - Fit is the most important factor when purchasing a wetsuit. You must try on the wetsuit, as every wetsuit manufacturer's size chart is different. Thickness is also important. The thicker the suit, the warmer. 'Smoothie' neoprene, stretches better and is warmer in windy conditions. Seams are also important. The types of seams used in a wetsuit differ greatly. An "Overlock" seam, is found on inexpensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever but it is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or a rash as it protrudes against the skin. A "Flatlock" seam, is a flat stitch that does not push into your skin like the overlock. It is not watertight, but does not cause as much of a rash or chaffing problem. The "Blindstitch," is a flat stitch that does not penetrate all the way through the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes. It is watertight which makes a tremendous difference. Blindstich seams are found only on more expensive wetsuits. Last but not least, wetsuit zippers - or closures, are extremely important. "Back-zip" suits are the most common type. Look for a sturdy metal zipper (rather than plastic), and thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent water flushes. You would look for the same qualities in a "Shoulder-zip" suit.

Footwear - There are dozens of choices when it comes to beach and water shoes, and many bargains to be found. Look for a shoe that meets your exact needs. It should be metal-free, and as light as possible without sacrificing your overall comfort. Beach hunters can spend four- to six- hours gridding the sand at their local beach. Comfort and breathability are extremely important.

Hat - Anyone who spends a lot of time on the beach knows the importance of a quality, long billed cap. There are several things to look for in a good beach detecting cap. Be sure the cap feels comfortable with your headphones and sunglasses on. A cap should be breathable, and offer a sun flap to protect the back of your neck.

Sunglasses - Eye protection should be a top priority while spending long hours in the sun. Extended exposure to reflected light and glare from sand and water can cause real discomfort, and even damage to your eyes.

Beach Detecting Strategies; When and Where to find treasure on the beach

The beach is divided into two-sections - The "Dry Sand" or blanket area, and the "Wet Sand" or swimming area. When detecting the dry sand areas, successful beach hunters "grid" individual sections of the beach. Start by choosing an area 50-feet long, by 50-feet wide.

First detect from the North to South. When you have detected the entire grid, turn 90-degrees and detect it again East to West. Moving slowly and methodically, you will be able to pass your coil over every inch of the 50-square-foot grid. Coins, watches, rings, bracelets, Ipods, cell phones, car keys - you'll find it all! The phrase to remember is "low and slow." Keeping your coil as low and flat to the sand as you can, while moving slowly enough to assure your sweeps overlap each other is the real key to success.

For tips on hunting the surf and wet sand I consulted with Rusty Henry. Rusty is a retired Navy "frogman," and an original Seal Team 2 member. He is a living metal detecting legend, and has been the Service Manager at Tesoro Electronics for 20-years. Rusty says rings and jewelry are lost in the water during both High, and Low tides. You can get to these treasures much more quickly during Low tide however.

"At Low tide, get into knee- to thigh- deep water to get to the jewelry that was lost at High tide by people swimming, frolicking, throwing Frisbees, footballs and such," says Rusty. "Look for streaks of Black sand on the beach at the waterline. These are always an indicator of where other heavy things like coins and jewelry will be deposited. Many beaches will only have Black sand streaks after a storm, or unusually heavy wave action. Storms uncover things that have been out of reach for many years as the sand gets ripped away. You have to act fast however during low tides, as a couple tide changes can start covering it all up again." Rusty says after a violent storm, look for hard clay patches that are showing and, "detect the small depressions that look like miniature potholes."

Before packing the vehicle with your beach gear and metal detector, be sure to check your local city and state rules and regulations. Many states and cities are now requiring you to possess a valid "Metal Detecting Permit," and have strict guidelines for detectorists. Along the "Treasure Coast" in Florida, you may detect the dry sand and shore only to the waterline because the state leases the water rights to treasure hunters (similar to gold claims). These waters are vigorously patrolled by the state. In New York, you must have a permit to detect the state-owned beaches of Long Island. The annual permit is good from Jan. 1 - Dec. 31, and costs US$40.00. The state parks like Jones Beach, and Robert Moses, are heavily patrolled. A ticket for detecting without a permit within a NYS park is US$165.00 - Do your research and have the permits and permissions required to be on the beach you will be hunting.

Whether on the dry sand or in the ocean surf, metal detecting the beach is one of the most rewarding experiences a treasure hunter can have. From pocket change and Ipods, to old coins, diamond rings and gold chains, America's beaches are living treasure troves. A healthy and heavenly place for the metal detectorist, and naturally replenished and re-seeded every spring and summer. So what are you waiting for? Let's hit the beach!

How Much Does it Cost?

The beginning beach hunter should expect to invest $500- $1,000.00 for the basic equipment needed to hunt the sand and surf. Here is a breakdown of the basic equipment needed, and the average retail cost (new):
Tesoro Vaquero (VLF) metal detector $450.00
Tesoro Sand Shark (PI, Waterproof) metal detector $580.00
Minelab Excalibur (BBS, Waterproof) metal detector $1,500.00
Reilly's Treasured Gold Pro Aluminum 6" Water Scoop $150.00
KellyCo Three-pocket Mesh Finds Pouch $20.00
Reddington Crosswater Waders with neoprene booties $100.00
Henderson 3/2mm XSPAN Super Stretch Wetsuit with 3mm Zipper Dive Boots $190.00
Eco UV Outdoor Hat $15.00
Speedo beach shoes $25.00
As Seen on TV Wrap Around Sunglasses $9.99
New York State Metal Detecting Permit $40.00
The reward and joy of finding your first gold or diamond ring - Priceless!

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[Denarius]

None of this info is mine. I'm not trying to take credit for any of it. When I copied it I didn't mark down the original posters. Please accept my humble apology for not referencing the info properly. I just thought that it was great information for beginners. Mr. Soloman if your advice is quoted often it's because it's, well, great advice. And much appreciated.

 

[penzfan]

WOW! That was a mouthful...interesting though...

 

[Denarius]

I just don't want to piss anyone off. But the info I've collected off of this site has been great. I just thought I'd share.

 

[Lady Pirate]

It is great when people do the homework and collect all sorts of information and pay attention to posts. You get such good information all over this site, and others, and in general just off your computer! Is is so funny when people don't do any research and get on here and say "What do I do? Where is the gold?" Research-research-and more research

 

[masterjedi]

Dig a target only by sound! If it sounds good, dig it...

 

[Sir Gala Clad]

Nice Story Terry:
Is what you wrote based on current accepted design theory(s) or did you make this analogy up?

Since I wrote this, I would appreciate you telling people where you got it..

 

[Denarius]

C'mon don't fight. It will ruin the thread.

 

[Terry Soloman]

Nice Story Terry:
Is what you wrote based on current accepted design theory(s) or did you make this analogy up?

An original story I wrote for Lost Treasure Magazine back in 2010.

 

[Sir Gala Clad]

Denarius, I assume the C’mon don’t fight, it will ruin the thread – you are referring to my reply.That most certainly is not my intent, I totally agree with Mr Soloman, The source of each piece of information you shared in your thread should have been identified. It is important that the original posters be given credit, and is needed to determine the acccuracy of the information extracted as well as to determine that it is not taken out of context.

C'mon don't fight. It will ruin the thread.

 

[bowwinkles]

Beach and Shallow water hunting and maybe some areas not mentioned. If you beach hunt and find a lot of good signals in one small area, make sure that someone on a towel is not wearing those items and be extra careful as to what you do with your pin pointer under those circumstances