how do you find a cache with md

[1bigpopsont]

i have a dfx md what should i set it on to find a cache? and how do i find a cache

[Old Dog]

Welcome to T-Net.
I hope you find a lot and share some of it with us.

In answer to your question...
As deep as you can get it to go
Then pray it's deep enough.

The fruit jar caches I have dug are 15 to 26 inches.

Spanish caches can be as deep as 30 feet for the larger ones.
large KGC caches use a standard rod...16 feet 8 inches (i think)

This is what I hear anyway.

Thom

[al-nm]

Lots of ways to find a cache. can find them hidden in walls in older homes. I have found one inside a ducting system where they pulled up a floor vent to hide it. can find them in lofts of old barns. fireplaces in old houses. outhouses were a favorite of the old timers they could count their money and do their buisness lol. some have been found in hollowed spots in trees. dont always just look at the ground. the burried ones are most likely the obvious but most didnt spend enough time to dig to deep if they were going to be getting it all the time adding more to it. be really careful but if you find a older home that abandoned. and its ok to hunt it check the attics. i find more stuff left by people who just dont think of looking there when they moved. men hid the most in the past in caches so get familiar with the surroundings. think about where they would of been the most outdoors. post holes under the logs of old fences were a easy spot to just pull up the post drop in the cache and slide the pole back in. Spots like those its nice to have a pinpointer.

[CWnut]

cache hunting= 90% research + 10% searching

[boogeyman]

If you've done your research & have a cache narrowed down. You can try sitting down and just taking a look around. Think where you'd hide something if you were the person. Can you get to it when needed. Can you see where it is from the house. Are there animal pens or corrals near. Animals make great burglar alarms. Like CWnut said 90% research but 8% field observations 2% swinging.

Sounds like you're a new detector user. One of the best things you can have is familiarity with your machine. Before heading out, try making a test bed. Bury some cans, large fishing sinkers or pieces of lead at different depths in your back yard to practice on. Try locating your wiring, boxes & pipes in the walls of your house for practice. This should give you a little experience as to what your machines capabilities are and what it's telling you. Ask questions here on TNet. There are a lot of good people with a vast wealth of info who are willing to share! Hope this helps you. Oh yeah, let us know how you do!

[Bum Luck]

Good advice.

Listen to your detector and dig it all until you learn how to listen to it - maybe 10 years LOL!

I'm still learning after maybe 30 years. Keep reading posts here and ask advice a lot. Old timers may look a little funny, but the ones that are willing to talk straight to you are great sources of advice.

Find one that takes an interest in you - he's living through you and therefore has an interest in your success.

[boogeyman]

I look at detecting like it's Christmas! You never are sure if you're getting a pair of socks or a new bike! But either way you get a really valuable gift KNOWLEDGE.

Most of my experience seems to be, real good info comes from the guys who look strange or a little off. Guess noone takes the time to talk to them. Just wish I could remember more of the knowledge passed on to me when I was a kid.

[Old Dog]

If looking in the area around the house ...50 yards radius.
This is easy access from the house.
Find where the windows used to be (especially Kitchen and bedroom)
Use a direct line of sight from any window that was frequently watched from.

Check the corners of cellar holes as well as the floors of chicken coops and corners of the barn.
Check along old garden paths and fence lines, Many people in rural areas had "fence banks"

Next to irrigation head gates,(folks watched their water like a hawk, why not their cash as well)
under the porch, especially if it was a large stone.

Check the well, and around it.
look under any flagstone type walk or patio.

in the house don't forget to look inside any hollow interior doors
check the fireplace for any loose stones or bricks
Watch for loose floorboards secret compartments in staircases

Just keep an open mind and think about where you would hide your loot if you didn't want it in a bank.
You'll do just fine

Always check the old outhouse or privy hole.

Thom

[Kentucky Kache]

Some of those old timers really come to life when you start asking them about the past. You're doing them a favor AND gaining valuable information. That's a great place to start.

[NGE]

Also, if the old house has any roll up type window shades, pull them all the way down, past their normal operating range. Some old timers have taped paper very close to the original wooden roller, then rolled back up to normal extended length, so when shade is pulled down to normal, no one would think of looking for paper where it is not normally pulled down past its regular travel....... Not GE

[BLACKFOOT]

check the garden plots it would be natural for people to be digging there.

[gflores71]

1: Research, to find a cache you have to go where there was someone in the past that had enough to hide(wealth), location, analyze the terrain, think where YOU would hide something, check old records regarding the area of interest ...list goes on

2: You mentioned a DFX, well you need to practice a whole lot with buried items at different depths and settings on your machine. You are learning a new language thus learning to understand what your detector is trying to tell you.

I have a program with slow sweep speed, pre amp of 4, low discriminator settings. I run the DFX on MIXED mode that way I dont miss deeper targets. The MOST important way to tell if it may be a cache is by sizing the object. This is performed by measuring the signal intensity with the trigger pulled in (all metal or pinpoint). You approach the target and mark where you get the best reading ( smaller number or less depth) then mark where the signal starts dropping. Repeat same procedure in another direction and you have a pretty good estimate of the size and shape.

Remember that sound lenght does NOT mean anything in relation to size of object.

The discriminator only helps if the object is shallow and even then may be inaccurate as the container holding the cache may be of any material.

Almost forgot, a bigger loop will help substantially...I am using an 18" DD coil that makes a huge difference for larger than coin targets.

If you are not used to the machine and programs, then Relic mode will help you for now.

Gilbert

[gflores71]

forgot to mention .... run your DFX on 3Khz, it goes deeper (tested multiple times on deep larger targets of different materials)

Gilbert

[lou423]

great information...

[Amona]

Old Dog

I hope you find a lot and share some of it with us

You're funny!! would you share? If you find some cache,..what about Uncle Sam?

Amona

[Old Dog]

Old Dog

I hope you find a lot and share some of it with us

You're funny!! would you share? If you find some cache,..what about Uncle Sam?

Amona

Sure I would,
I have before and will again.
Here is one of mine.

[GrayCloud]

That Old Dog still has a treasure nose.

[Old Dog]

Thanks for the kind words Grey Cloud.

Amona,

This is one of many I have shared.


Am I still funny?

[Amona]

Amona,

This is one of many I have shared.


Am I still funny?

Yeah because is the way that you told it Apparently there where you live there is many place with caches to be found!!!

Amona

[Shortstack]

As already pointed out by several folks here; first you find a cache; then you locate it. What the heck does that mean? Well, you find a cache by coming across a lead; research the lead; prove the lead; follow the lead; recover the target of the lead. 95% research; 5% field work. Visually speaking:

Your first trips into an area will be without any detector. You'll need only your notes, clear eyes, and a good camera.