Should this setup work?

[MrDigsit]

I plan on trying to clean a rusty spike with this setup. I am using a few table spoons of baking soda in tap water. Should it work? Can I do better? Thanks.

mike

[MrDigsit]

Sorry, trying to post better picture

[CRAZY-TEXICAN]

i have tried that method and does work but takes a while , some of the rust will just chip off and overnight the water will be very dark in color but will make removing the rest of the rust with a scotch brite pad easier.. i have also used "evaporust" with great results , its the best rust remover i ever used and can have a nasty rusted part/s back to like new and rust free in as little as overnight with no scrubbing..

i hope this helps..

A.

[Shortstack]

Your power unit shows 4 amp output which will be plenty high enough current. I would suggest using a larger volume of fluid (deeper). My personal mixture is warm-to-hot water with table salt instead of baking soda. My power unit has an output current rating of 600 to 700 mA (milliamps) so good coins won't be etched by electrolysis. It's fast enough for most work, but slow enough so that I can monitor it's progress.

That rusted spike you're cleaning would get cleaned up quicker if you used Naval Jelly instead of electrolysis. Just follow the directions on the container.

[MrDigsit]

You both helped alot. I'll try the other methods on another one and see what I like best. Shortstack, are you saying my 4 amp supply may damage coins? If so I'll use a smaller one for them.

mike

[Shortstack]

There is a possibility that having a setup with too much current flow could damage a coin. The electrolytic action is based on the good material lifting off of the surface of the coin / object and carrying the "crud" with it. Once most, if not all, of the crud is flaked off the procedure should be stopped. A lot of folks believe that a coin should not be cleaned beyond the point of readability. Once it can be clearly "read", stop cleaning. There is a fine line between "cleaning" and "damaging" and that line is determined by each collector. It's better to leave a collectable coin dirty than to over-clean. Valuable "key" coins are checked out with magnifying lopes by buyers who are looking for scratches made by improper cleaning. Serious coin collectors take that stuff into account and will actually assign lower values due to botched cleaning. Really high value coins are photographed for insurance purposes and all scratches / nicks are used as fingerprints to identify each coin if they are ever stolen.

[MrDigsit]

Thanks for getting back to me. I appreciate it. I found a 12V 800 ma. I'll set that up with clips. I'm very familiar with coins and grading. The only coins I will clean are common date . Its just for fun and learning. I'm dying to clean something steel. Can you believe it, I can't find a rusty anything.

mike

[Shortstack]

You can still use that 4 amp unit for cleaning metallic relics (iron, steel, copper, etc). That higher current rating would help on large items such as bayonets, gun parts, small calibre cannon balls (solid grape shot, not explosive projectiles, ). I've read where folks putting large metal items (cannons, etc) use battery chargers and transformers designed for electrified cattle fences for power sources. But, as I suggested before, you'd get better results by using a deeper amount off fluid than what's shown in your photo. And, before I forget; when I said my fluid mix was of water and salt, I wasn't saying baking soda doesn't work as good. Many people use baking soda. When I started out, I used table salt and just haven't changed over.

[MrDigsit]

I wasn't going to retire the 4 amp I just wanted another for more delicate items. I'll keep the water level up. How much baking soda do you think I should be using in the container shown?

[Shortstack]

In the container shown, I would fill about one-half full with hot water to insure the baking soda or salt was fully dissolved. I'd start with 3 rounded tablespoons of electrolyte (baking soda or salt) and a stainless steel tablespoon or larger serving spoon. As the unit works, you'll need to pull the spoon every-so-often to wipe the buildup off of it to keep the best current flow.

[MrDigsit]

Well, I have no more questions at this point. You've got me off to a good start. Thanks for taking all the time with me. Here is a before and after of the spike.

[Shortstack]

That spike cleaned up pretty good, didn't it? If you can get a lot more, you might make an artsy display to hang on the wall. I've seen some displays of handmade spikes, nails, and coins / trade tokens from the same time period that were turned into some great shadowbox displays. There are some folks that do that to sell at flea markets and craft shows. Just another thought. Oh, I almost forgot---a very good and low cost protectorant for that spike and other artifacts is a water-soluable hairspray. Spray on a good coat and let it dry before handling. The spray protects the object from rusting and is very easy to remove with hot water and a soft-bristled brush should the need ever come up.

Did you find that spike at an old house site? If so, there is an outhouse site there, too, and possibly a trash dump nearby.

Good luck and good hunting.

[MrDigsit]

Yes it was from a old house site and it had all you mentioned + a barn. It is a honey hole. Alas its back in upstate N.Y. where I spent the 1st 40 yrs of my life. Good luck and happy hunting to you too.

mike

[X-Terra70_TreasureHunter]

Mike use the following Chargers:

IRON: 12V 5A max....Salt Water or Baking Soda & water

Coins & 1Pc Buttons: 9V 750ma......Salt Water or Baking Soda & water

2Pc Buttons: 9V 750ma......Salt Water or Baking Soda & water, but you can not leave them unattended because they are not SOLID

ALUMINUM: 6V 500ma.....Salt Water or Baking Soda & water ((do not leave them unattended))

1 teaspoon of salt & warm water
Stainless Steel spoon ((DO NOT USE COPPER as a substition for the spoon, copper will cause blotchs on silver items))

Dave

[MrDigsit]

Thanks Dave. I didn't know they were so specific. I have all the chargers and I'll write this down.

[boogeyman]

Well, I have no more questions at this point. You've got me off to a good start. Thanks for taking all the time with me. Here is a before and after of the spike.

Shortstack knows his stuff! I use the same salt & water setup. I just finished restoring a 1950s wood lathe. To clean the bed & larger parts I used a 55 gal plastic drum cut in half lengthwise with four strips of stainless steel, two on each side. Ran a 12v battery charger at 5-6amps.

Another hint:
Mix 1/3 white vinegar, 1/3 laquer thinner & 1/3 boiled linseed oil in a container large enough to hold your item. Place the item in & let soak overnight. Helps preserve & when given a good rubbing makes a nice finish. Not to mention helping to keep the moisture in the air from causing more damage.

This formula also works great for cleaning old antique wood items.