The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

[Tom_Restorer]

This cabinet blaster comes with everything but compressor and choice of media www.harborfreight.com/abrasive-blast-cabinet-42202.html . Your right, bottom line for siphon blaster cabinet , compressor and media is going to cost you around $275.00 and more when you add on shipping, and Uncle Sam. If your using a self contained bottle blaster or its likes, your still over $200.00. But in the long run you will find many uses for it besides iron it is a great cleaning tool. As far as iron meeting oxygen = iron oxide, rust. I know there's more then one type of iron oxide, I'm only familiar with one. Arty

Tom,

I don't understand. Why wouldn't one want to remove the iron oxide to stop the reaction and decomposition of the metal? I do agree that the micro-blasted spur is much nicer, but in terms of cost, few can afford this equipment for their iron relics.

Is that a find of yours? It is a very nice spur.




Best Wishes,


Buckleboy

... this cabinet is ok but the blaster tool is only to use on car parts or very big iron pieces! The opening on the tip is VERY big and not real the right tool to restore historical objects!

I would like to see how 6 Bar pressure and sand let look a iron piece You need something to control the presure - what you will miss on that piece!

PS: because more than one iron oxyde: You are right but my english is not good enought... I mean the black iron oxyde wich comes directlyy under the rust. This is the layer with all information on it!

Tom

 

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[Tom_Restorer]

something different

This early medieval knife was completly corroded and has no iron core inside. On pieces like this, electrolysis don´t work!

It was also sand blasted and small remaining spots are smoothed with rotating diamond tools.

It has now a very nice black oxyde and red magnetit surface.

 

[artyfacts]

Yes the cabinet blaster gun will have a big tip opening but you can buy tips with very small apertures that will knock a hair off a frogs butt. I have used the exact tips and guns to restore $60,000.00 Tiffany lamps in the 1970's. They are nowhere near micro but they will do the same job. The bottle blaster is a micro blaster, pen sized, but it is siphon fed, not a bad thing, it is more forgiving and cheaper, $96.00 http://glastar.com/ and can be rigged inside a blast cabinet also. Micro pressure blasters are around $400.00. The idea of using a media to blast at an object is about all the same, the only differences are the delivery systems, pressures used, and the medias used. With any of the siphon fed blasters you can adjust the pressure on the compressor as low as it takes to get the media your using to do its job. In some circumstances your better off using a larger tip when you want the removal rate to happen in a larger area at the same time. Arty













... this cabinet is ok but the blaster tool is only to use on car parts or very big iron pieces! The opening on the tip is VERY big and not real the right tool to restore historical objects!

 

[Tom_Restorer]

if very small apertures are to get, than it is a great deal ! Here in germany are only this big aperatures to get for the blaster pistols from this complete sets with cabinet...

Tom

 

[BuckleBoy]

Tom,

Expensive equipment is beyond the scope of many of us hobbyists for cleaning something like iron relics. I think we basically do the best with what we have, and our main concern is to stop the oxidation process that destroys the relics.

In that regard, I think we do well.

In the realm of buttons and button cleaning, I advocate the use of aluminum jelly or peroxide to clean them. I have never seen a U.S. button collector pay Less for a button because it was cleaned in this way. They generally pay More. And this goes for museums in the U.S. as well.
So in that regard, unless museums and collectors raise the bar--I feel we'll all be cleaning our buttons in similar manner for years to come.

Now, I understand that with recovery of relics there comes a responsibility to preserve and care for them--and I have always taken that very seriously. But few of us have the ability to purchase equipment like you describe. I understand that all relics are important--and education is the key. So why don't you make a topic here and share your methods, documented with step-by-step photos of your process.

Thank you in advance,


Buckleboy

 

[NHBandit]

To add my 2 cents to this subject I have to say I'm a huge fan of Molasses for rust removal. Like BuckleBoy I learned of this method from antique car restorers and molasses is the preferred method when damaging any plating, other metals, etc might be a concern. It takes awhile (2-7 days) depending on how rusty the piece is but because it works slowly you can keep a close eye on the process and stop when you're happy with the results. I have seen pictures of automobile engine blocks that sat outdoors for many years and were completely rusted that looked like the day they were cast after being soaked in a molasses bath. How you mix it depends on how badly rusted your stuff is. It gets mixed with water and can be mixed 50/50 if needed for really badly rusted stuff. I'm currently restoring some railroad lanterns which were originally tin plated and the mixture I'm using is a 16oz jar of molasses to a 5 gallon bucket of water. Here is a Canadian National Railway lantern I just finished. It was completely covered with surface rust inside & out when I started. I have done nothing to it other than to soak it in molasses & water for 4 days and then lightly rub it with 00 steel wool to remove the grey coating left by the molasses solution. For you chemist types, it's the Phosphoric acid in the molasses that eats the rust. Next experiment is going to be using a heavily rusted wrench from the Concord (NH), Manchester & Lawrence Railroad. I'll post the results in a few days.

 

[Woodland Detectors]

 

[boogeyman]

Here's a link for glass blasting art. He's got some links to suppliers. There are small pen blasters that aren't too terribly expensive. http://www.glassetchingsecrets.com
They make several small ones for jewlers too. So blasting small items should be no problem

If you're considering a table top blast cabinet, you can buy bar stock and drill your own tips. Larger or smaller. If you have questions regarding blasting media etc. Surface Prep in Phoenix Az are great people to deal with. They have no problem answering questions and offer good tips on most anything to do with media blasting.

A good substitute for molasses is plain citric acid. You can buy it from 1 lb up to 100lb drums from stores that sell home beer brewing supplies it's food grade so no chemical issues. I've had excellent results with citric. Not to mention the jeezeus effect

What's the jeezus effect? That's when you replace the sugar with citric acid. They always yell jeezus! as their toes curl BTW it's what they coat the sour gummies with.

 

[DALEBEC]

I use white vinegar, works very well after a 3 day soak

 

[drkennedy61]

Thanks for the information

 

[White Akuma]

Trying out that evaporust solution now on an old lock I found. Seems to be working pretty well. I'm already starting to get some lettering showing although there is some pitting where the letters are showing so I won't be able to get a clean makers mark. I also noticed on the instructions that for larger items you can soak it in rags to wrap around the item and then wrap the item in rags with another layer of plastic to keep it the rags from drying out. Seems like an economical idea, but haven't tried it myself. I'd be interested in how it turns out if anyone trys that way.

 

[Davers]

? I have a 1850s MEXICAN style spur I dug last March that is made of brass w/iron rowel & iron chain that runs between studs. I have maybe 3 or 4 times oiled w 3in1 oil [the iron parts] Dont want to do electrolysis becaouse I dont want to remove the patina from the brass .In your or anybodys opinion would this treatment work on my spur . [mostly the chain] A guy with a great assortment of spurs at a local CW show said "he would poly coat the iron parts rust & all" any sugesstions will help . thanks Davers

 

[BuckleBoy]

Davers,

I now use Apple Cider Vinegar on my finds, then rinse, then coat quickly with evaporust just to stop flash rust during drying, then bake with crisco as mentioned above. For pieces that are partially brass, part iron, I just coat them with rust converter to preserve them. I have no idea how long-term that preservation method would last, but it is bound to work for a while, and without taking the patina off the brass, that is about the only option. Congrats on a great, early spur!

Cheers,

Buck

 

[Debbie Alexander]

Thanks for the info...I have been finding a lot of iron relics and was wondering how to clean it.

 

[BuckleBoy]

After lots of experimentation, I prefer the Apple Cider Vinegar method now, followed by dipping in evaporust and baking in an oven, coating with crisco, and letting cool. Works so well!

Thanks for the info...I have been finding a lot of iron relics and was wondering how to clean it.

 

[zogcopperhead]

I'm going to be trying this product soon, hopefully sometime this weekend. I found a good chunk of iron that I think would be a good test piece

 

[Arrowheadhunter]

so what's a easy way to make this stirrup look better and last? I'm kinda worried with some thin spots

 

[BuckleBoy]

You could just go rust converter on that one. Might be the only way to hold it together.

 

[Dug]

Hi BuckleBoy;

Old dogs can learn new tricks. I'm open to trying something new. I noticed in your very first post that you have indicated that you now use Apple cider vinegar then follow up with the more expensive Evaporust. Can you give some more details such as what stength vinegar, how long to soak and know when it's ready, etc? Also since vinegar is basically an acid don't you want to neutralize it when done soaking by rinsing the relic in fresh water and with possibly a little baking soda to stop the acid action or does the evaporust do that?

 

[BuckleBoy]

I use full strength apple cider vinegar, then rinse with water, then coat with evaporust to stop the flash rusting and let it dry. Then bake in an oven about 250 degrees and coat with crisco lightly.

-Buck