Put away the rubber gloves, the belt sanders, the toxic chemicals, the risk of shock, dangerous fumes, and expensive copper tubing. I broke down and tried something this week and was quite pleased with the results. The product is called EvapoRust, and it is for sale in most auto parts stores. It has no toxic fumes, is PH neutral, biodegradeable, and removes rust like a champ.
This method is a little more expensive in the long run than electrolysis, at $22/gallon for the product--but the starting cost of a good electrolysis setup is easily twice that amount. Therefore, I would reserve this method for gun locks and pieces, ramrods, trade axes, and relics that are composed of several independent pieces of different metals including iron (iron padlocks with brass key escutcheons, pocketknives with brass, gutta percha, or synthetic sides, guns with brass parts, etc.).
This product will only react with iron oxide (rust). It will not remove good iron (unlike electrolysis, which removes iron as well as rust). The process works slowly, and it needs very little attention from the user--so it is possible to remove a relic if it looks like it is getting thin (didn't have much good metal left in the first place). If you let the product air-dry on the relic, it will keep it from rusting for another week or two, so you have time to think about how far you wish to go.
EvapoRust leaves the metal looking very grey in color (unlike the black look of electrocuted iron). I will be baking these relics with crisco or oil in the oven after using EvapoRust (much like seasoning a cast iron skillet), so they will get a little darker in during that final process.
Iron that is pitted deeply by rust will still show major pitting after using EvapoRust. Iron that has a light layer of rust will come out fairly smooth. But this is no different from electrolysis, which leaves the same pits unless you stop it prematurely and end up with rust spots still coming through.
This is the ONLY way I have found to remove rust from the Insides of gun parts, lock plates, and the handle holes in antique tools. Electrolysis just can't do that.
So, here are the results--followed by a few tips. I tried this on a cast iron stove leg that had a nice design. Before and after photos:
All of the rust is gone, and it is ready to be "seasoned." I will post another photo after the seasoning is done.
A few tips: You must SUBMERGE the relic in the product. So this means that the large relics will use much more product than the small ones. I used half a gallon on the stove leg. Due to the cost, I have begun grouping my relics by size. The bigger ones better be darned good ones to get the EvapoRust bath. The small ones, not as important decision because they will take less amount of liquid to cover them. Doing large, really rusty relics will be expensive! This is because you will probably have to change the liquid once. A good rule of thumb is 2 times the amount of liquid to cover the relic. I could do two old farm tools with one gallon (likely not worth 10 bucks each), but I could probably do 4 lock plates from muskets with the same amount (Well worth the $5 investment per lock plate). Or I could do a dozen small horse harness buckles or gun tools with that same gallon. You can always figure out how much you'll need by submerging the relics in water and then pouring the water off into a measuring jug and remembering that you'll need twice the amount to finish the job.
Second, the product's effectiveness becomes greatly reduced after it gets totally full of rust and turns black. You can minimize the amount of rust in the product by taking the relic out of the bath periodically and scraping loose rust off and washing it down the drain. This also means that as the very first step you should knock as much rust off the relic as possible before putting it in the bath (provided it isn't fragile).
I have had good luck with ziploc baggies to submerge the items. I have also used marbles to raise the liquid level to cover a relic if my container has a lot of empty space around the relic.
Next tip: the product Does evaporate, so whatever you have the relic bath in should be sealed if possible--even if just with plastic wrap.
Update #1: I tried the product on an iron padlock with a brass keyhole, and the product started removing the rust, yet left the green patina of the brass intact on the face of the lock. So it does not appear to affect any other metal besides rust. (I allowed the lock to soak overnight.)
One last thing--if you have previously oiled a relic, then EvapoRust will NOT work on it. I have tried to touch up some minor rust spots on items I had already "seasoned"/oiled, and it was not effective. Evidently the oil interferes with the product's ability to remove the rust.
I'd love to know your experiences if you try this. Please post to this thread. Now it's time for me to clean some horse tack. I really like the large "D" buckle. The tongue is frozen in place with rust. I have never had much luck with electrolysis on small buckles like the rectangular one in the photo below. So it'll be interesting to see how it turns out. Starting them today--and the "before photo" is below:
Update #2: The small buckles are finished. Now working on the stirrups in the first photo above. The D-shaped buckle's tonuge now turns and slides freely. These were originally the same shade of gray as the stove leg "after photo" above. After heating in the oven, applying a thin coat of crisco, and baking for an hour, they look exactly the same as a piece that has undergone electrolysis.
Regards,
Buckleboy
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
Great post Bucks! I'll be checking to see if this product is available in Canada.
I feel certain that it is available via mail order, but that is more expensive of course. I would try auto parts stores--since its main application is de-rusting engine parts and gas tanks for restoration purposes.
-Buck
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
What timing. I was going to do a thread as I have just started my first electrolysis of an old hatchet that I always thought to be a CW cs camp item. It is cooking now Trying to find a makers mark maybe.
Look forward to seeing how the buckles turn out. Good post.
Thanks
TnMtns
Awesome results, Bucks! Makes me want to dig up some rusty iron!
Fly yourself down here and we'll dig up some rusty iron... together.
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
It's good to see that other people besides myself bring home those fancy stove parts. They make a good display.
And with a little felt on the flat part that attached to the bottom of the stove, they make an excellent door stop when turned upside down.
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
Hey, Gio--how's that axe coming along? Got some photos for us? 8)
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
Hello Buckles. As usual this is a great post. Your wealth of knowledge and experience has taught me so much. Thank you for all your input.
Thank you for your kind reply, FatCat--now go get those great iron relics cleaned up.
Best Wishes,
Buckles
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
I don't understand. Why wouldn't one want to remove the iron oxide to stop the reaction and decomposition of the metal? I do agree that the micro-blasted spur is much nicer, but in terms of cost, few can afford this equipment for their iron relics.
Is that a find of yours? It is a very nice spur.
Best Wishes,
Buckleboy
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals: TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Three 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes. Military Relics: Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
This cabinet blaster comes with everything but compressor and choice of media http://www.harborfreight.com/abrasiv...net-42202.html . Your right, bottom line for siphon blaster cabinet , compressor and media is going to cost you around $275.00 and more when you add on shipping, and Uncle Sam. If your using a self contained bottle blaster or its likes, your still over $200.00. But in the long run you will find many uses for it besides iron it is a great cleaning tool. As far as iron meeting oxygen = iron oxide, rust. I know there's more then one type of iron oxide, I'm only familiar with one. Arty
Originally Posted by BuckleBoy
Tom,
I don't understand. Why wouldn't one want to remove the iron oxide to stop the reaction and decomposition of the metal? I do agree that the micro-blasted spur is much nicer, but in terms of cost, few can afford this equipment for their iron relics.
Is that a find of yours? It is a very nice spur.
Best Wishes,
Buckleboy
Its a small world until you have to walk somewhere.
this is the typical methode to clean iron without loosing informations wich are on the oxyde layer (also silver or other inlays get lost with electrolysis!)
As example, if you have small and very thin carvings or patterns on the iron, they can gone lost with electrolysis but you find everything with a micro blaster!!
To stop all possible reactions, the best methode is to use hot wax and boiling the iron pieces in 100 to 120 degree Farenheit (until no bubbles of water and CO2 comes out). All other finishes like Paraloid etc. get microcracks and incoming air humidity causes new reactions of the akaganeit and also other chlorides wich blast of the surface again!
To get out the complete salts and chlorides is nonses and only a nice "wish" of many restorers specially when a piece is not cleaned yet and someone try to bring out the salt and chlorides from an uncleaned piece! So a very good and hermetically conservation with wax is the best what can be done at the moment. Also waxed pieces can be handelt without problem!
I preserve iron pieces for more than 20 years now and not one comes back with any problems.
A professional sandblaster is not expensive! Look here:
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These were originally the same shade of gray as the stove leg "after photo" above. After heating in the oven, applying a thin coat of crisco, and baking for an hour, they look exactly the same as a piece that has undergone electrolysis. 
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Originally Posted by romeo-1
Trying to find a makers mark maybe.
)
