The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics
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  1. #1
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    The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    UPDATE: I have decided that I greatly prefer Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) for cleaning iron relics. I do still dip them in EvapoRust afterwards to displace the water, let them air dry (the evaporust keeps them from flash-rusting), then bake in the oven and season while hot with a thin coat of Crisco.

    My original post is below, praising Evaporust. I still like the product, but it is just to expensive ($22/gallon for Evaporust vs. $5/gallon for Apple Cider Vinegar)

    Regards,

    Buck




    Original Post:

    Hello all,

    Put away the rubber gloves, the belt sanders, the toxic chemicals, the risk of shock, dangerous fumes, and expensive copper tubing. I broke down and tried something this week and was quite pleased with the results. The product is called EvapoRust, and it is for sale in most auto parts stores. It has no toxic fumes, is PH neutral, biodegradeable, and removes rust like a champ.

    This method is a little more expensive in the long run than electrolysis, at $22/gallon for the product--but the starting cost of a good electrolysis setup is easily twice that amount. Therefore, I would reserve this method for gun locks and pieces, ramrods, trade axes, and relics that are composed of several independent pieces of different metals including iron (iron padlocks with brass key escutcheons, pocketknives with brass, gutta percha, or synthetic sides, guns with brass parts, etc.).

    This product will only react with iron oxide (rust). It will not remove good iron (unlike electrolysis, which removes iron as well as rust). The process works slowly, and it needs very little attention from the user--so it is possible to remove a relic if it looks like it is getting thin (didn't have much good metal left in the first place). If you let the product air-dry on the relic, it will keep it from rusting for another week or two, so you have time to think about how far you wish to go.

    EvapoRust leaves the metal looking very grey in color (unlike the black look of electrocuted iron). I will be baking these relics with crisco or oil in the oven after using EvapoRust (much like seasoning a cast iron skillet), so they will get a little darker in during that final process.

    Iron that is pitted deeply by rust will still show major pitting after using EvapoRust. Iron that has a light layer of rust will come out fairly smooth. But this is no different from electrolysis, which leaves the same pits unless you stop it prematurely and end up with rust spots still coming through.

    This is the ONLY way I have found to remove rust from the Insides of gun parts, lock plates, and the handle holes in antique tools. Electrolysis just can't do that.

    So, here are the results--followed by a few tips. I tried this on a cast iron stove leg that had a nice design. Before and after photos:



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    All of the rust is gone, and it is ready to be "seasoned." I will post another photo after the seasoning is done.


    A few tips: You must SUBMERGE the relic in the product. So this means that the large relics will use much more product than the small ones. I used half a gallon on the stove leg. Due to the cost, I have begun grouping my relics by size. The bigger ones better be darned good ones to get the EvapoRust bath. The small ones, not as important decision because they will take less amount of liquid to cover them. Doing large, really rusty relics will be expensive! This is because you will probably have to change the liquid once. A good rule of thumb is 2 times the amount of liquid to cover the relic. I could do two old farm tools with one gallon (likely not worth 10 bucks each), but I could probably do 4 lock plates from muskets with the same amount (Well worth the $5 investment per lock plate). Or I could do a dozen small horse harness buckles or gun tools with that same gallon. You can always figure out how much you'll need by submerging the relics in water and then pouring the water off into a measuring jug and remembering that you'll need twice the amount to finish the job.

    Second, the product's effectiveness becomes greatly reduced after it gets totally full of rust and turns black. You can minimize the amount of rust in the product by taking the relic out of the bath periodically and scraping loose rust off and washing it down the drain. This also means that as the very first step you should knock as much rust off the relic as possible before putting it in the bath (provided it isn't fragile).

    I have had good luck with ziploc baggies to submerge the items. I have also used marbles to raise the liquid level to cover a relic if my container has a lot of empty space around the relic.

    Next tip: the product Does evaporate, so whatever you have the relic bath in should be sealed if possible--even if just with plastic wrap.

    Update #1: I tried the product on an iron padlock with a brass keyhole, and the product started removing the rust, yet left the green patina of the brass intact on the face of the lock. So it does not appear to affect any other metal besides rust. (I allowed the lock to soak overnight.)

    One last thing--if you have previously oiled a relic, then EvapoRust will NOT work on it. I have tried to touch up some minor rust spots on items I had already "seasoned"/oiled, and it was not effective. Evidently the oil interferes with the product's ability to remove the rust.

    I'd love to know your experiences if you try this. Please post to this thread. Now it's time for me to clean some horse tack. I really like the large "D" buckle. The tongue is frozen in place with rust. I have never had much luck with electrolysis on small buckles like the rectangular one in the photo below. So it'll be interesting to see how it turns out. Starting them today--and the "before photo" is below:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Update #2: The small buckles are finished. Now working on the stirrups in the first photo above. The D-shaped buckle's tonuge now turns and slides freely. These were originally the same shade of gray as the stove leg "after photo" above. After heating in the oven, applying a thin coat of crisco, and baking for an hour, they look exactly the same as a piece that has undergone electrolysis.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Regards,



    Buckleboy
    Last edited by BuckleBoy; Mar 17, 2013 at 11:22 PM.
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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  2. #2

    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Great post Bucks! I'll be checking to see if this product is available in Canada.
    Finder of Things!

  3. #3
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Quote Originally Posted by romeo-1
    Great post Bucks! I'll be checking to see if this product is available in Canada.
    I feel certain that it is available via mail order, but that is more expensive of course. I would try auto parts stores--since its main application is de-rusting engine parts and gas tanks for restoration purposes.


    -Buck
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
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    1826 2 Reales
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    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
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    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  4. #4
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    What timing. I was going to do a thread as I have just started my first electrolysis of an old hatchet that I always thought to be a CW cs camp item. It is cooking now Trying to find a makers mark maybe.
    Look forward to seeing how the buckles turn out. Good post.
    Thanks
    TnMtns
    Please read our rules and enjoy the site. TreasureNet.com Rules

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  5. #5

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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Awesome results, Bucks! Makes me want to dig up some rusty iron!


  6. #6
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Quote Originally Posted by diggergrl
    Awesome results, Bucks! Makes me want to dig up some rusty iron!

    Fly yourself down here and we'll dig up some rusty iron... together.
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
    Solid Gold Monogrammed Thimble, c. 1840-50
    Civil War ID Disc
    14K Gold ink pen nib
    1826 2 Reales
    Louisiana Pelican Civil War Button
    Eagle Cuff Button
    Eagle "I" Coat Button
    Colonial silver shoe buckle piece
    Boxlock Pistol hammer plate
    1865 2 Cent Piece
    1870 Three Cent Nickel
    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
    1842-O, 1858, 1876-S 1876-CC and 1888 Seated Dimes
    1898 Hong Kong Dime Silver Coin (Queen Victoria)
    1905-O Barber Dime
    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
    Silver "Indian Head" badge
    Maynard Carbine casings (Civil War)
    Louisiana Knights Templar Badge
    Shield Nickels
    V Nackles, Beefalo knuckles and Gaw Gag

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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  7. #7

    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics



    That may be on Santa's list for this Winter to finally get my iron done!

  8. #8
    Charter Member
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Post is updated above.
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
    Solid Gold Monogrammed Thimble, c. 1840-50
    Civil War ID Disc
    14K Gold ink pen nib
    1826 2 Reales
    Louisiana Pelican Civil War Button
    Eagle Cuff Button
    Eagle "I" Coat Button
    Colonial silver shoe buckle piece
    Boxlock Pistol hammer plate
    1865 2 Cent Piece
    1870 Three Cent Nickel
    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
    1842-O, 1858, 1876-S 1876-CC and 1888 Seated Dimes
    1898 Hong Kong Dime Silver Coin (Queen Victoria)
    1905-O Barber Dime
    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
    Silver "Indian Head" badge
    Maynard Carbine casings (Civil War)
    Louisiana Knights Templar Badge
    Shield Nickels
    V Nackles, Beefalo knuckles and Gaw Gag

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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  9. #9

    Jun 2006
    948
    33 times

    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    It's good to see that other people besides myself bring home those fancy stove parts. They make a good display.

  10. #10
    Charter Member
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Quote Originally Posted by lumbercamp
    It's good to see that other people besides myself bring home those fancy stove parts. They make a good display.
    And with a little felt on the flat part that attached to the bottom of the stove, they make an excellent door stop when turned upside down.
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
    Solid Gold Monogrammed Thimble, c. 1840-50
    Civil War ID Disc
    14K Gold ink pen nib
    1826 2 Reales
    Louisiana Pelican Civil War Button
    Eagle Cuff Button
    Eagle "I" Coat Button
    Colonial silver shoe buckle piece
    Boxlock Pistol hammer plate
    1865 2 Cent Piece
    1870 Three Cent Nickel
    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
    1842-O, 1858, 1876-S 1876-CC and 1888 Seated Dimes
    1898 Hong Kong Dime Silver Coin (Queen Victoria)
    1905-O Barber Dime
    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
    Silver "Indian Head" badge
    Maynard Carbine casings (Civil War)
    Louisiana Knights Templar Badge
    Shield Nickels
    V Nackles, Beefalo knuckles and Gaw Gag

    OUR 2018 YEAR-END POST:
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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  11. #11

    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Quote Originally Posted by BuckleBoy
    Quote Originally Posted by lumbercamp
    It's good to see that other people besides myself bring home those fancy stove parts. They make a good display.
    And with a little felt on the flat part that attached to the bottom of the stove, they make an excellent door stop when turned upside down.
    Do old tub legs count?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    It is best as one grows older to strip oneself of possessions, to shed oneself downward like a tree, to be almost wholly earth before one dies.

  12. #12
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Quote Originally Posted by creskol
    Do old tub legs count?
    Those are FANTASTIC!!!!!!
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
    Solid Gold Monogrammed Thimble, c. 1840-50
    Civil War ID Disc
    14K Gold ink pen nib
    1826 2 Reales
    Louisiana Pelican Civil War Button
    Eagle Cuff Button
    Eagle "I" Coat Button
    Colonial silver shoe buckle piece
    Boxlock Pistol hammer plate
    1865 2 Cent Piece
    1870 Three Cent Nickel
    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
    1842-O, 1858, 1876-S 1876-CC and 1888 Seated Dimes
    1898 Hong Kong Dime Silver Coin (Queen Victoria)
    1905-O Barber Dime
    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
    Silver "Indian Head" badge
    Maynard Carbine casings (Civil War)
    Louisiana Knights Templar Badge
    Shield Nickels
    V Nackles, Beefalo knuckles and Gaw Gag

    OUR 2018 YEAR-END POST:
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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  13. #13
    gr
    Sep 2009
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Thanks Buckle, my trade axes will love you.... and my health does too!

    Romeo, yes it's sold in CANADA! Woohoo, at Canadian Tire.
    Metal detecting addiction counselling... does it exist?


  14. #14
    Charter Member
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Hey, Gio--how's that axe coming along? Got some photos for us? 8)
    2019 CaneField Bandits Totals:
    Solid Gold Monogrammed Thimble, c. 1840-50
    Civil War ID Disc
    14K Gold ink pen nib
    1826 2 Reales
    Louisiana Pelican Civil War Button
    Eagle Cuff Button
    Eagle "I" Coat Button
    Colonial silver shoe buckle piece
    Boxlock Pistol hammer plate
    1865 2 Cent Piece
    1870 Three Cent Nickel
    1846 and one dateless Large Cent
    1788, 1819 and one dateless Half Reale
    1848-O and 1854 Half Dimes
    1842-O, 1858, 1876-S 1876-CC and 1888 Seated Dimes
    1898 Hong Kong Dime Silver Coin (Queen Victoria)
    1905-O Barber Dime
    1942 and 1944-D Washington Quarters
    2 Silver "War Nickels"
    Silver "Indian Head" badge
    Maynard Carbine casings (Civil War)
    Louisiana Knights Templar Badge
    Shield Nickels
    V Nackles, Beefalo knuckles and Gaw Gag

    OUR 2018 YEAR-END POST:
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    Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my signatures were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.

  15. #15
    us
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    Re: The BEST method for cleaning Iron Relics

    Hello Buckles. As usual this is a great post. Your wealth of knowledge and experience has taught me so much. Thank you for all your input.
    If you dig it, they will come.

 

 
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