preserving my horse shoe?

[rtde3]

I have a horse shoe that is almost done being cleaned with Electrolysis. What should I do to it to preserve it from rusting up again? Oil, Reformer....?

[Bladeii]

I worked with some arceaologists over the summer. The use some sort of wax to applie a thin coat that seals the metal from the air.

[xanthea]

Have you ever tried using any silicone based type spray? Give it a good shot let it sit for a while then brush off excess in cold water and wipe dry.

[jeff of pa]

I use PRESTONE silicone Lubricant, on all my finds, except silver & Gold

[searcher]

silicone works fine .but you'll have to keep treating it. have you heard of kell 132?(i think thats what its called)
its a tool protectant that works great for ferrous metals.
a collector friend of mine cleans stuff, heats it slightly to dry it well, then clear coats it with a quality matte finish polyurethane spray before putting it on display. dont know if thats right but he swears by it. i just clean em and put kel 132 on em.
H.H. searcher

[rtde3]

Thanks guys!

[deepfloat]

Shoe Polish,
Heyall, there is a product called LPS in is a lub. type in spray can. There are a couple of diffrent types. LPS 2 is a lub and anti rust spray type, sais right on the can that you can spray raw steel and will not rust for 2 years.
That leaving it outside in the weather. So I guess it should last a lot longer if kept inside.
gl HH cya ..jeff, also in PA

[stoney56]

Just a quick tip: when you display your horseshoe be sure to hang/display open end up or the luck will run out(tale told by someone's old wife HH

[rtde3]

I'll be sure to remember that Stoney! I did think my MDing luck might get a little better when I found it a few weeks ago. But it has snowed & I havent been MDing scince. Maybe this week!!!!

[nick1878]

Go to an automotive shop and get a product calle "extend" it works great to seal the metal and t wont rust od deteriorate. It sprays on and leaves them black in color when your done through, I have used or years and it works on old iron objects

[divedigger]

on all iron objects,particularly those that came out of salt water,after electrolysis and cleaning the item,I put a coat or 2 of gloss polyurethane for strength,and then a coat or 2 of satin polyurethane for a pleasing finish.It lets the natural color of the metal show through and will not need recoating for a few years.

[Copper]

I worked with some arceaologists over the summer. The use some sort of wax to applie a thin coat that seals the metal from the air.

The wax referred to here is "RENAISSANCE WAX." You can find it online. I use it for all bronze ancient coins and artifacts.

The horseshoe could use some "Naval Jelly" (sold at any hardware) and a little steel wool work (to remove rust). Then coat it with a spray sealer/paint of your choice.

However, this method should not be used on valuable objects (Civil War, etc.).

The bad thing about zapping (electrolysis) is it leaves iron items so very pitted (not always). The Naval Jelly approach is more controllable and leaves iron objects with a little smoother surface.

Anyway, that's my two-bits.

Copper

[Comanchero]

Know, I know a lot of ya are gonna disagree with me on my method of cleaning old horshoes, and any old iron object that is so rusted up it don't work no more, or etc. But, I heat 'em up to red hot, then quench them quickly in cold water. Sometimes takes a few times to get it done, but man it works like a charm. You can always temper them later with the right quenching in certain oils, etc., but for just display they are perfect, after you buff them off with a soft cloth and then coat 'em with anti-rust material and rub it in. Ya ought see how that old rust and flakes just fall off! Try it first on some object (like an old horshoe or etc. of little value first, so ya know what I mean and what ya are doing!). Comanche

[AmericanCoinHunting]

I do not know if my method pertains to horse shoes,but it works on rusted,blued firearms..I have had a few rusted,and pited barrels on a few guns I bought cheap..I took motor oil and some very fine steel wool..I worked the legth of the barrel with a little oil on the steel wool turning it slowly as I worked the steel wool brisly up and down the lenght of the barrel..
When the barrel starts to get warm, I take a break for a few seconds tearing off and oiling a fresh piece..It takes a while, but it brings back the bright, blued shine,and protects it too...It works on old rusted knifes as well,but the pits will always be there..

[Comanchero]

Mac, whatever works for ya, works for ya. As long as you are satified with the results, that is all that matters anyhow. Comanchero