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Aug 13, 2007, 06:46 PM
#1
Cleaning aluminum tokens
I just ruined another aluminum token with electrolysis.
How do you clean these things?
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Aug 18, 2007, 09:38 AM
#2
CANE FIELD BANDITS and IRON BRIGADE MEMBER
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
For the most part, unless the aluminum is starting to get eaten away by conditions underground, I just clean them by using a wooden toothpick to get the encrustation off. The wood will usually not scratch the aluminum. I use this method for old tokens and coal scrip. I think electrolysis in most cases is a horrible cleaning method for both coins and tokens. Usually you will end up with unidentifiable junk afterwards.
Regards,
Buckleboy
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals:
TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button, 1820s or 1830s
FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Two 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes.
Military Relics:
Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
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Nov 12, 2007, 07:56 PM
#3
 Digging up the Past
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
Better late than never, I soak 'em in lemon juice overnight if heavily encrusted and then clean with a tooth brush or tooth pick.
Dayton Diggers, Historical Research & Recovery

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Nov 13, 2007, 09:20 AM
#4
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
aluminum mag and wheel cleaner and polish work pretty well..
WADE ON IN THE WATER AIN"T DEEP!!!!
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Dec 26, 2007, 09:10 PM
#5
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
The problem with the aluminum tokens is that they often suffer from the "aluminum blows" - when aluminum tokens are in the ground for very long, the chemicals attack the metal and you are left with various areas of aluminum oxide. Just as in iron, aluminum rusts (oxidizes) and the rust takes up more volume than the original metal. Unlike iron where the rust sometimes forms a protective surface over the metal, aluminum tends to oxidize in bubbles or worm-holes - that is the whitish stuff you see on your token.
Cleaning aluminum tokens with surface crud is as the others have indicated, but you can't really do much with ones with the whitish aluminum oxide. The aluminum oxide is not very soluble and it is generally not loose either. Besides it resides down in the worm holes and bubbles, making it tough to access. If you were to be able to get rid of all the aluminum oxide, you would be left with something that resembles Swiss cheese. So, in my opinion, aluminum tokens are generally best left alone.
John in ID
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Dec 27, 2007, 01:04 PM
#6
CANE FIELD BANDITS and IRON BRIGADE MEMBER
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
 Originally Posted by idahotokens
The problem with the aluminum tokens is that they often suffer from the "aluminum blows" - when aluminum tokens are in the ground for very long, the chemicals attack the metal and you are left with various areas of aluminum oxide. Just as in iron, aluminum rusts (oxidizes) and the rust takes up more volume than the original metal. Unlike iron where the rust sometimes forms a protective surface over the metal, aluminum tends to oxidize in bubbles or worm-holes - that is the whitish stuff you see on your token.
Cleaning aluminum tokens with surface crud is as the others have indicated, but you can't really do much with ones with the whitish aluminum oxide. The aluminum oxide is not very soluble and it is generally not loose either. Besides it resides down in the worm holes and bubbles, making it tough to access. If you were to be able to get rid of all the aluminum oxide, you would be left with something that resembles Swiss cheese. So, in my opinion, aluminum tokens are generally best left alone.
John in ID
Does this process of degradation continue even after the token is recovered and washed off?
Spring 2012 CaneField Bandits Totals:
TEN Half Reales:
1740, 1777, 1784, 1796, 1801, 180?, 1806, 1807, 1808, and 1814
1836 8 Reales
A 17?? One Real
1819 Token/Jeton
Two "Russian Blue" Trade Beads
Henry Clay Campaign Button, 1820s or 1830s
FIVE Early New Orleans Seated Coins:
1838-O Dime (no stars), Two 1839-O Half Dimes, an 1840-O Dime, and an 1842-O Half Dime
1892 Barber Dime
1918 Walking Liberty Half
1866 and 18?? Shield Nickels, and some GawGag V's and Beefaloes.
Military Relics:
Possible Spanish Colonial Era Cap Badge
FOUR War of 1812 Artillery Buttons
1820s Pewter Militia "U.S." Button
CW Eagle Artillery Cuff Button
CW Eagle Infantry Officer's Coat Button
3-Ringers, Enfields, Musketballs, and Shell Fragments
Any relics, coins, or other items appearing in my finds posts were found on PRIVATE PROPERTY with total consent and permission from the owners of said property.
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Dec 27, 2007, 09:49 PM
#7
Re: Cleaning aluminum tokens
Here is a product you may want to try? It's aluminum jelly.
Here is a link:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/repai...=5&Product=170
It's available at most ACE hardware stores for $4 - 5.
Jeff
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