Clarification on Halves

craigpcdmc

Jr. Member
Feb 3, 2010
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OK so to get this straight.
I should LOOK :o at all dates so i don't miss coins NIFC and proofs. 40% halves can't be visually found.
-I take out all coins 1964 and before, 90% silver, can be visually seen on rims
-I take out all 1965- 1970 for 40% silver, can't be seen on the rims
-I take out all NIFC coins minted 2002- date
-I take out all proofs
 

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AGCoinHunter

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Aug 13, 2009
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Keep everything 1971 and above, we will take care of the rest.
 

Diver_Down

Silver Member
Dec 13, 2008
4,373
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St. Augustine, FL
craigpcdmc said:
OK so to get this straight.
I should LOOK :o at all dates so i don't miss coins NIFC and proofs. 40% halves can't be visually found.
-I take out all coins 1964 and before, 90% silver, can be visually seen on rims
-I take out all 1965- 1970 for 40% silver, can't be seen on the rims
-I take out all NIFC coins minted 2002- date
-I take out all proofs

So you're not going to bother with Bicentennial silver or commemoratives?
 

ivan salis

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Feb 5, 2007
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here it is --the keeper list

dimes, quarters,and halves 1964 and before -90% silver

halves only --1965 to 1970 --40% silver

NIFC (not intend for curculation)-- halfs 2002 and later

all "proof" coins
 

Diver_Down

Silver Member
Dec 13, 2008
4,373
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St. Augustine, FL
ivan salis said:
here it is --the keeper list

dimes, quarters,and halves 1964 and before -90% silver

halves only --1965 to 1970 --40% silver

NIFC (not intend for curculation)-- halfs 2002 and later

all "proof" coins

So you don't bother with bicentennial silver or commemoratives, either?
 

ivan salis

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Feb 5, 2007
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pass on normal 1976 /1776 coins --there clad and many millions made -- do not collect horrible SUSAN B dollars either.

the silver 1976 ers would fall under "proofs" as they were made for proof sets -- of course any silvers--comm or otherwise you keep
 

Old Dog

Gold Member
May 22, 2007
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Always keep an eye out for the non proof 1998-S,
It is a 90%er but is not a proof. It has a matte finish like the SMS coins.

Very rare to find as only a few thousand were made.

Hey,
it could happen.
 

Diver_Down

Silver Member
Dec 13, 2008
4,373
2,000
St. Augustine, FL
ivan salis said:
pass on normal 1976 /1776 coins --there clad and many millions made -- do not collect horrible SUSAN B dollars either.

the silver 1976 ers would fall under "proofs" as they were made for proof sets -- of course any silvers--comm or otherwise you keep

Ahh, now you are being loose in the definition of a proof. The bicentennial silver was struck in both a proof and an uncirculated business strike.
 

ivan salis

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Feb 5, 2007
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nifc -- covers the "uncirculated bussiness strikes"-- if not keep the silvers should cover it
 

jdsarasin8194

Bronze Member
Dec 27, 2009
1,160
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MA
craigpcdmc said:
OK so to get this straight.
I should LOOK :o at all dates so i don't miss coins NIFC and proofs. 40% halves can't be visually found.
-I take out all coins 1964 and before, 90% silver, can be visually seen on rims
-I take out all 1965- 1970 for 40% silver, can't be seen on the rims
-I take out all NIFC coins minted 2002- date
-I take out all proofs
Yes, you should for proofs, but, you CAN see the difference between the rims. Non-silvers have like a brownish-orangish strip across them.
 

JD-GA

Sr. Member
Feb 2, 2010
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I first check all the rims for silver then i check the dates for proofs and rares. Ive found 3 x 40% today while date checking that i missed on the rim check. Sometimes they can be dirty or throw ya off.
 

coinmojo

Bronze Member
Mar 18, 2008
2,484
6
Michigan
JD-GA said:
I first check all the rims for silver then i check the dates for proofs and rares. Ive found 3 x 40% today while date checking that i missed on the rim check. Sometimes they can be dirty or throw ya off.

The 2nd thing you should do after visual rim check is to drop/cascade the coins from one hand into the other listening for the sound of silver ....so much easier than date searching.

I never miss any using this 2 step process look and listen.

Mojo
 

jdsarasin8194

Bronze Member
Dec 27, 2009
1,160
5
MA
Diver_Down said:
ivan salis said:
here it is --the keeper list

dimes, quarters,and halves 1964 and before -90% silver

halves only --1965 to 1970 --40% silver

NIFC (not intend for curculation)-- halfs 2002 and later

all "proof" coins

So you don't bother with bicentennial silver or commemoratives, either?
bicentennial are not silver for halves
 

AGCoinHunter

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jdsarasin8194 said:
Diver_Down said:
ivan salis said:
here it is --the keeper list

dimes, quarters,and halves 1964 and before -90% silver

halves only --1965 to 1970 --40% silver

NIFC (not intend for curculation)-- halfs 2002 and later

all "proof" coins

So you don't bother with bicentennial silver or commemoratives, either?
bicentennial are not silver for halves

40% ones are...
 

Argentium

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I'll arouse the ire of many here with my opinion - save 90% obviously , save 40% you can
see the vast majority of them on edge - I agree with a prior post that before you throw down
the roll into your dump pile , if you jiggle the halves in your hand you'll hear the silver- takes
almost no time and is foolproof (provided your hearing is standard). Please do not bother
with what people here refer to as N.I.F.C. , Clad coins that have mintages in the millions , are
not worth more than face value ! and they will not be in our lifetimes . You will over time find
anomalies , like British large cents , commemorative halves (1892-1993 silver , and many clad
varieties ) . Proof silvers (technically impaired by circulation) will be obvious and savable , their
clad counterparts (also impaired ) are not worth saving . Argentium .
 

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