OMG!!!! BEST $20 EVER!!!!!!!!!!!

[MrLee]

Very nice find. I had a similar situation several years ago with Franklin halves.

You should look up each coin below and then ebay them. Coin dealers don't necessarily rip you off, they just have to make money in the transaction as well. My advice is Ebay them.
NumisMedia Online FMV Rare Coin Price Guide Index - Retail Fair Market Value Prices for U.S. Rare Coins - Numismatic Values - the Official Price Guide of NGC and the Collectors Society

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[Th3Offspring]

Went to the coin store and they offered 50 bucks for the 1888s. From my experience with this shop they normally tend to rip me off. Anyone know what this might be worth? He offered 350 total for the 18 coins

I personally wouldnt take less than $600. Unless you need the money don't sell them yet, silver is gonna go up. without better pictures i would say the 1888 s is worth at least $100.

Edit: if you do need the money i would sell all but the 1888 S. It should increase in value over time as it is a key date.

[tallguybry]

Holy crap!! Well done!

YAHTZEEEEEEE!!

H$H!!
TGB

[BuffaloBoy]

this is an impossible score in my area, every teller is a silver hawk, they take all the decant silver, seriously, they really do. Some don't know about 40% halves yet.

[Diver_Down]

jnb- First, congrats on being in the right place at the right time. You were rewarded for your efforts.

Second, to get an idea of their worth post close-ups of each in the Coins section to get an idea on grading and value.

Third, you can ebay the choice/select coins and group the common dates together as another lot. Or you can buy a Charter Membership on TNet and sell them in the Classifieds section without fees.

[fistfulladirt]

I'm still hunting for that decant silver

[treeslayer]

That is one hell of a score!! HH

[jnb1994]

Going to post detail pics of all 18 coins in the coins forum soon

[conleytheking]

Awesome! I'm still looking for my first Morgan/peace dollar!

[EastKyMiner]

That is a great haul! Happy to see you hit..

HH...Miner

[Historyhound]

Went to the coin store and they offered 50 bucks for the 1888s. From my experience with this shop they normally tend to rip me off. Anyone know what this might be worth? He offered 350 total for the 18 coins

Here ya go. That offer was quite low. NumisMedia Price Guide

[jnb1994]

Can anyone take a look at this and maybe throw out a number of what its grade might be?

I looked at the link historyhound sent and it said that a G-4 would be worth 77. I don't know a lot about coin grades but I'm pretty sure my coin is better than a four. I mean you can see a lot of details in the hair and stuff. Here are some pictures.

[sagittarius98]

Can anyone take a look at this and maybe throw out a number of what its grade might be?

I looked at the link historyhound sent and it said that a G-4 would be worth 77. I don't know a lot about coin grades but I'm pretty sure my coin is better than a four. I mean you can see a lot of details in the hair and stuff. Here are some pictures.

XF-40 to AU-50 maybe, might look different when you actually handle it.

You can grade it by yourself using this:

PCGS Photograde Online


And then I can tell you the values based on my Redbook (2008).

[Diver_Down]

Can anyone take a look at this and maybe throw out a number of what its grade might be?

I looked at the link historyhound sent and it said that a G-4 would be worth 77. I don't know a lot about coin grades but I'm pretty sure my coin is better than a four. I mean you can see a lot of details in the hair and stuff. Here are some pictures.

It is a solid XF to low AU grade. Redbook values are notoriously high. They are never what a dealer will pay and doesn't take into account market fluctuations. A better idea of value is the Greysheet. Greysheet will quote a bid/ask price, and this is the basis of what honest coin dealers will pay/sell the coin. With that being said, the Greysheet lists a value $165-$185 (average $175 between the two grades). Redbook on the other hand lists it for $225- $240.

With regards to you other coins, list the dates and mintmarks and we can advise you on which ones to take individual photos of for grading/valuation. Coins such as the 22 and 23 peace dollars will never be worth more than melt value in circulated grades so there is no need to invest the time in getting pictures. But the '34-S on the other hand, might just be worth more than your 88-S.

[jnb1994]

Peace Dollars (10)
1922x2, 1922S, 1923x2, 1923S, 1924, 1925S, 1934, 1934S

Morgan Dollars (8)
1879S, 1880, 1881, 1883x2, 1887, 1888S, 1889

[Diver_Down]

Peace Dollars (10)
1922x2, 1922S, 1923x2, 1923S, 1924, 1925S, 1934, 1934S

Morgan Dollars (8)
1879S, 1880, 1881, 1883x2, 1887, 1888S, 1889

I'll single out individual coins that you might want to focus your attention on by taking additional photos and determining grade/valuation. Common dates in circulated grades will only be worth melt so there is no need to invest your time and energy when there is nothing to gain.

Peace Dollars - 1925-S will need to be AU or better to carry a premium; 1934 (under a million minted) EF or better (in mint state the value jumps); 1934-S VF and above it carries a premium and is quite desirable for collectors.

Morgan Dollars - 1879-S note the reverse in your photos. In AU with the second reverse, it carries a premium. 1880 had an overdate variety (80 over 79). In AU, it carries a premium. 1888-S. We've covered it here, but I'd like to see better photos if you could.

Again, congratulations. If you aren't a collector, I hope you find a collector who will appreciate them (hint, hint).

[jnb1994]

I'll single out individual coins that you might want to focus your attention on by taking additional photos and determining grade/valuation. Common dates in circulated grades will only be worth melt so there is no need to invest your time and energy when there is nothing to gain.

Peace Dollars - 1925-S will need to be AU or better to carry a premium; 1934 (under a million minted) EF or better (in mint state the value jumps); 1934-S VF and above it carries a premium and is quite desirable for collectors.

Morgan Dollars - 1879-S note the reverse in your photos. In AU with the second reverse, it carries a premium. 1880 had an overdate variety (80 over 79). In AU, it carries a premium. 1888-S. We've covered it here, but I'd like to see better photos if you could.

Again, congratulations. If you aren't a collector, I hope you find a collector who will appreciate them (hint, hint).

What exactally do you mean better photos? Is there something your looking for?

And here are pictures of the other coins you mentioned.

[Diver_Down]

What exactally do you mean better photos? Is there something your looking for?

And here are pictures of the other coins you mentioned.

Sorry about the better photo request. I just realized with the new TNet photo viewing that a photo can be enlarged. They are just fine.

From left to right -
1879-S = It is a third reverse. With being heavily circulated, it will only be worth melt. The numismatic premium for the 3rd reverse kicks in on the mint state grades.
1880 = It does not have the overdate and consequently is a common date. It is in great condition (at least AU-58). I would not sell this in a common melt lot. It would be worth $35 on it's own.
1925-S = It is too heavily circulated to earn a numismatic premium and consequently would only be worth melt. It is a better date so perhaps a value of $30 could be realized.
1934 = An even better date, but again the circulation wear keeps it from earning a numismatic premium. $30 is a safe bet.
1934-S = This is a semi-key date. They always command a premium but unfortunately, this example has been heavily cleaned and exhibiting heavy circulation. That being said, it might realize a $50 value.

I hope this helps. If you are interested in selling the 88-S, contact me via PM.

[jnb1994]

I sold the 1880 back to the teller that gave me the coins. Trying to get on his good side since he also happens to be the one who orders the coins.

So basically I should keep the 25-s, 34, and 34-s seperate from all the other coins I would guess since melt is only 23ish? And what do you think the 88s might be worth? Do you think 200 is a realistic price for that? There are so many sources and the numbers they give are so different which makes putting a value to them kinda difficult for someone who is new to this... If melt value went up does the numismatic value also go up the same amount or is it possible that the melt would become higher?

And I don't plan on selling any of these coins at the moment. I'll let everyone know if that changes.

[Diver_Down]

I sold the 1880 back to the teller that gave me the coins. Trying to get on his good side since he also happens to be the one who orders the coins.

So basically I should keep the 25-s, 34, and 34-s seperate from all the other coins I would guess since melt is only 23ish? And what do you think the 88s might be worth? Do you think 200 is a realistic price for that? There are so many sources and the numbers they give are so different which makes putting a value to them kinda difficult for someone who is new to this... If melt value went up does the numismatic value also go up the same amount or is it possible that the melt would become higher?

And I don't plan on selling any of these coins at the moment. I'll let everyone know if that changes.

$200 is realistic to sell to a private collector. I quoted you the recent Greysheet. This is the dealer's bid price. They are expected to make money on coins they buy. With regards to melt value vs numismatic value, they do not maintain a proportionate ratio. There is a point where melt value surpasses any numismatic premium.