Thornes 1st nickel log

Thorne

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Thorne

Thorne

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CladSmoke

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Wow, lots of old coins in that one. No silver though! Crazy.
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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Had me hoping for silver every roll but zip
 

sagittarius98

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Box 10 customer wrapped rolls

43 - 1950'S
120 - 1940's
1971 S Proof
5 clad dimes
1938P
10 - 1939 P
2009 D
1959 CANADIAN
1965 CANADIAN
1977 CANDIAN
5 MORE common Canadian

Someone must have had no luck with eBay and dumped their hoard.
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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I kept some but most were Commons and worn. Not worth keeping in my opinion.
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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Lunch time hunt-
80$ cwr quarters -
2-2009
1-2011
2-2012
20$cwr dims-
1-2009p
1-1975 candian
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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box of cents #10 (brinks box)
52 - canadian
13 wheat nothing older then 1940
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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nickels box #11 (brinks box)

4 common canadian
1 - 1938P
9 - 1940'S
9 - 1950'S
1944P (silver war)
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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Nickel box #12
(46 rolls were someones dump)

11 Canadian
1939P
4-1940'S
11-1950'S
1942P (silver)
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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Nickel box $13 brinks

7 Canadian
2003 Bermuda
1939P
14-1940'S
16-1950'S
1943P (silver)
1944D (silver)
 

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CladSmoke

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Doing some solid work. Good finds. Keep it up!
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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If only you could have seen my face when I pulled a war from the box that was 96% cwr dumps
 

mjm579

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Can anyone tell me what is up with 1964? I think I have found more of those nickels in the one box and several rolls here and there, than any other year combined.
 

mjm579

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I got my first box of nickels last week. Usually I stick to cents. It was also a Brinks box. I found a 1899 V nickel, a 1937 buffalo, a dateless Buffalo, and a war nickel (needto double check the date). It is just funny to see that you also recently found a 1899 V from a Brinks box! I was beside myself when I pulled it out of the roll. That, to me, is the beauty of cent and nickel roll hunting....you have to savor each roll....coin by coin....it isn't as simply as scanning the edges. It is also a great way to find error coins (esp in cent boxes). Happy hunting! BTW, can you educate me on the process of using vinegar to get a date on worn buffalos? Thx in advance!
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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1964 was the last year of the silver dime and quarter. They minted less dimes and quarters that year and to make up for it they minted a billion nickels.

As for vinegar dating just put a bit of salt and some vinegar in a cup and soak the Buffalo in it. After a day or two you can usually see the date.
 

ArkieBassMan

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Can anyone tell me what is up with 1964? I think I have found more of those nickels in the one box and several rolls here and there, than any other year combined.

Combining both the Philly and Denver mints, they minted nearly 3 billion nickels dated 1964, which I believe is the single highest mintage figures for any year of nickels before or since.
 

mjm579

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3 billion! Holy crap! That definitely explains it. Considering that most nickels from that period were lucky to reach 100 Million.

Also, thx for the vinegar tip. Is it usually recommended to do this to a coin? Or is it better to leave it as a no date? I only ask bc my local pawn shop sells no dates. Could it be worth my while to buy a few in hopes of finding a key date?
 

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Thorne

Thorne

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Not really. Even acid dated key dates are hard to sell.
 

archertiger3

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if you can't read the date it's allready not worth much, so you might as well do the vinegar dating
 

ArkieBassMan

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3 billion! Holy crap! That definitely explains it. Considering that most nickels from that period were lucky to reach 100 Million.

Also, thx for the vinegar tip. Is it usually recommended to do this to a coin? Or is it better to leave it as a no date? I only ask bc my local pawn shop sells no dates. Could it be worth my while to buy a few in hopes of finding a key date?

Unless you somehow have a market for dateless buffalo nickels, you can't really hurt the value by chemically dating them. However, a Type 2 1913-S buffalo in G-4 condition is about a $300 coin. A chemically dated buffalo won't grade G-4, but it certainly wouldn't surprise me if a chemically dated T2 1913-S brought a decent premium on the market...but that is just pure speculation on my part. I've never seen one sell, or even for sale...but I have never looked either.

As for buying dateless buffs to chemically date them, I personally wouldn't unless they were VERY inexpensive. And, I'd only buy 'S' mints hoping for the 1913.

Also, I personally prefer a product called Nic-a-Date over the vinegar method. The vinegar method dulls the entire coin whereas the Nic-a-Date is only applied on the small area where the date should be leaving whatever natural luster remains on the rest of the coin.
 

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