with CWR's it's not how big the is the haul, it's what's in it-$22 in nics, $30 dimes

port ewen ace

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as usual with CWR's-- the nickels were 3 coins short :BangHead:--- but ___

IMG_7456.JPG IMG_7457.JPG IMG_7458.JPG IMG_7459.JPG

is the '64-D a "Black Beauty" annealing error :dontknow:???---OR--- just colorifically impaired :tongue3:

a 2006-P with not even a "contact" mark--- can you say MINT STATE 8-) IMG_7460.JPG IMG_7461.JPG

'93-P hair to rim die crack 8-)

IMG_7462.JPG IMG_7463.JPG

'87-P rim CUD from "8" to bottom of hair

IMG_7464.JPG IMG_7465.JPG IMG_7466.JPG

and then we move on to the 6 rolls of dimes :laughing7:

IMG_7453.JPG IMG_7454.JPG IMG_7455.JPG

the '88-P with MM in date--- OOOOPPPSSS:BangHead:

still got a box O' dimes, some lowly cents & 2 boxes O' Halfys to molest for this stormy day--------:dontknow::dontknow::laughing9:
 

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Styfflin

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Another cud - nicely done! I have yet to find a rim cud. Every time I see two notches in a rim I do get admittedly get a little excited, until I realize it's just PMD.
 

GlenDronach

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I'd say coloring PMD, not Black Beauty. I've found BB before and it looks very different.
 

Death&Taxes

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Sorry to crap on the party. . .

Not an annealing error, just some coating that rubbed off on the high points. Annealing errors will show signs of metal flow. Also, the 1987 is not a cud, but rather a "wire rim" that is present on many modern coins, especially ones from the 70s and 80s. Cuds have to go beyond the rim and affect either a design element or a field. Both are worth a nickel. 1988-P dime is a common mintmark position, and it is not listed anywhere as a die variety. When you are searching through coins, ask yourself "would I pay money for this," and if the answer is yes it is worth keeping.

I'm just telling it how it is.
 

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port ewen ace

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Sorry to crap on the party. . .

Not an annealing error, just some coating that rubbed off on the high points. Annealing errors will show signs of metal flow. Also, the 1987 is not a cud, but rather a "wire rim" that is present on many modern coins, especially ones from the 70s and 80s. Cuds have to go beyond the rim and affect either a design element or a field. Both are worth a nickel. 1988-P dime is a common mintmark position, and it is not listed anywhere as a die variety. When you are searching through coins, ask yourself "would I pay money for this," and if the answer is yes it is worth keeping.

I'm just telling it how it is.

and, after searching over a half million dollars in coins---- I totally reject your "wire rim", a rim break IS A CUD, as it extends to the outer edge. it DOES NOT need to effect a "design element"-- Or enter the field

the MM will not "normally" sit on a date # but will be in the area of the last date #

the '64-D does have a "?" in the description. since in $70,000 in nickels louped-- this is one that raised the query if it was a BB, that's why I asked the question.

Lordy--- hope the war nickel is OK:tongue3:
 

enamel7

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I'm not seeing a rim cud either, but there is such a thing. It doesn't need to have any of the design involved. The mint marks is is closer than normal but generally not out of mint specs. A collector of mint marks might pay a small premium.
 

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port ewen ace

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Looks like an earlier example of the 1987-P rim cud shown on cuds-on-coins to me. Jefferson Nickel Cuds; 1984 ? 1989 : Cuds on Coins

your wisdom has not been "stifled" by the doubters. my specimen has un- pressed raised metal from the "8" down to the bottom center of Jeffy's ponytail. cudsoncoins is clearly calling their '87-P from Chuck Newman a "RIM CUD"

the '64-D is now back living in the wild-- no BB :BangHead:

as to the dime--- the P MM is in collision with the top right loop of the 1ST 8 at 30X mag.

Ursula called---- a 1K bag of Qtrs. just got dropped---- it will get exchanged for 20 FIDDYS and 1 ice cream cake :laughing9::love7:
 

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