More newb help please.

[Neogeo]

I have a quarter..2003 Missouri..mm.S...
it sounds like silver,could it be a proof or something...I am most likely wrong on all accounts....lol
Thanx for puttin up with my questions....Geo

 

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[72cheyenne]

I have a quarter..2003 Missouri..mm.S...
it sounds like silver,could it be a proof or something...I am most likely wrong on all accounts....lol
Thanx for puttin up with my questions....Geo

If it has an "S" mintmark, then it has to be a proof. They did make silver and clad proofs both. Hang on to it!!

 

[ivan salis]

s - san francisco --makes the "proofs" --- its most likely from a proof set thats been broken up -- there are both common clad and silver "proof sets" --its a keeper.

 

[Neogeo]

Sweet thanx guys..
How bout a 2004 gold colored quarter..(Texas -mm.P)

 

[ivan salis]

gold plated / toned quarters = junk

 

[Neogeo]

Thought so..thanx so much gang...

 

[allen]

keep that "s" mint quarter.

 

[Neogeo]

Man oh man...I need better eyes..I will have to add a loop to my keychain...I have been lookin at all the change I get from the store....It's like a treasure hunt everytime....Thanx to all for helping me start out.


I have almost a pringles can full of wheat pennys...What are the big boys to look out for?

 

[ivan salis]

at your local library there is most likely a "red book" guide to coins (the prices might not be up to date but --it is a good "rarity guide" still look at the numbers minted and the values in general that way you know what to look out for.---since rare coins they aren't making more of em) --the term you want to know is "key dates / mint marks"--- these are coins that for whatever reason --only a small amount were made --and if one is trying to complete a colllection --they are the "key" or hard ones to find -- key dates / mint marks often command top dollar (always remember coin dealers give about 1/2 of book price by "grade" and they will often try to "down grade" your coin when buying ) -- however when selling they try to up grade the coin as far as possible in their favor ( like a used car salesman but worse)----the differance is their profiet and how they keep the doors open-- key dates in very good shape are worth even more --the keys to value in coins are these 4 things -- #1 metal content ---silver and gold have a certain "basic" raw metal content value ----#2 demand * (you can have it but if no one else wants it --its worth zip on the "market" ) ----#3 condition the better the condition the more its worth ---coin folks can be very very fussy --- #4 rarity --if its rare enough , it often commands top dollar -- even in less than "perfect" condition

high dollar wheat cents -- even in beat up G4 shape -----(#1) --1909 s vdb --750----(#2 )--1909 s (no vdb) ---110---(#3) 1909 s --over horision s --110 (#4 ) 1914 D --215 ---(#5 ) 1922 (no D*) denver mint error -625- (do not mix up with no mint mark "plain" 1922 philly coin) (#6) 1931 S --110--

note in VF 20 * shape (#7)--1944 d over s --125 --(#8) the big one 1955 double die strike(philly mint so no mint mark) --$1300 in vf 20

 

[Neogeo]

Thanx those are some great tips.....I will keep an eye out for that book..