Want to try Dowsing?

[dowser]

Way back on here I wrote, it was like a balloon growing and popping. I believe its tied to magnetic fields, growing and snapping, followed by another. Releasing excess build up of energy. For some yet unexplained reason, they prefer a release sequence of 3. More testing has to be done to confirm. But that's what I usually see. They degrade after each snap. The first being the strongest, and the other to follow growing weaker. I've written that we basically are dowsing peak to peak. The strongest one. Stop over a line or target, your rods will open up. Relax and stay over target, feel for the signal that caused your rods to cross in the first place. Watch the pulse, learn how dowsing power affects your ability. Make changes, find treasures..

The Dowsing signal itself is strongest at the snap of the existing energy.

 

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[Honest Samuel]

Good hunting and good luck to those who are dowers\

 

[dowser]

Yes, good luck to all with this cycle 25. Here is pics from Spaceweather live archive, today, listing no flares launched at us from the Sun, and one day from Solar cycle 24 listing the flares launched at us that day from the Sun. It takes, depending on speed of launch, around 3 days for the energy from those daily flares to reach Earth. It's in that incoming Energy that powers Dowsing. As infrequent as flares might be, knowing when to Dowse helps plan Treasure trips. This incoming flare power, depending on strength and duration, provides possible Dowsable opportunities. This my way I do it, observe it, use it. Almost here, dowsing, Solar cycle 25.

 

[Tpmetal]

Hey guys, I was just reading the last few pages of this thread and there was some discussion on double-blind tests. There have actually been a lot of scientific studies on dowsing, I recently wrote an article that discussed several of them. Take a look at the article here: https://www.westcoastplacer.com/deep-dive-into-dowsing/

The results are the same in every test. There's also a good video of one of the tests available in the article. It doesn't cost 1/2 a million dollars to do a test like that.

they don't care about the truth here..... There is always an excuse for why the test failed.

 

[dowser]

they don't care about the truth here..... There is always an excuse for why the test failed.

Yes I confess, my excuse is I cant Dowse if Dowsing power isn't on. And when it is, it isn't constant. Kinda hard to do a test without power, to bad you don't believe, but want to argue till your mind is changed.

 

[dowser]

I only write about my way of Dowsing which requires energy from the Sun to work. If I had a flashlight, and the lights went out and it was dark. And someone said let's see the light work, and I said dead battery, and they said, your always making excuses, it wouldn't make sence to me. Dowsing power isn't constant, no excuses here.

 

[dowser]

A Sunspot region #2822 turned into view and has been launching flares. This is only one region, imagine when multiple regions and Sunspots start flaring as we get closer towards Solar maximum.

 

[signal_line]

Anybody having trouble getting a dowsing response you might want to try to put some low voltage through the rods. The most simple design I saw uses one rod and a AA or AAA battery with the "+" pole connected to the rod. Or if you use two rods then hook the "-" to the other rod. I use a voltage divider and adjust the voltage to what I like. Again simple here just walk past the target and see how the rods respond. Keep adjusting the voltage until you get a nice closing of the rods at the target.

Also the two-rod sweep has been very accurate for me with this set-up. I have not been experiencing any interference since that last solar storm.

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/long-range-locators/652318-try-l-rods-two-rod-sweep.html

 

[Shortrib]

Anybody having trouble getting a dowsing response you might want to try to put some low voltage through the rods. The most simple design I saw uses one rod and a AA or AAA battery with the "+" pole connected to the rod. Or if you use two rods then hook the "-" to the other rod. I use a voltage divider and adjust the voltage to what I like. Again simple here just walk past the target and see how the rods respond. Keep adjusting the voltage until you get a nice closing of the rods at the target.

Also the two-rod sweep has been very accurate for me with this set-up. I have not been experiencing any interference since that last solar storm.

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/long-range-locators/652318-try-l-rods-two-rod-sweep.html

Yes I use to make juice to a pair of rods with a 2 was bat. Pack. And a lot to adjust the power to set the right pull to gold and silver.u can make a pair with battery power for a few bucks. Short ribs in MO.

 

[signal_line]

Correction: negative pole attached to L-rod. I’ve seen different voltages, think electroscope uses 0.8 bolts for gold, but the power packs mostly use the full nine volts.

 

[signal_line]

Correction: negative pole attached to L-rod. I’ve seen different voltages, think electroscope uses 0.8 bolts for gold, but the power packs mostly use the full nine volts.

This is an old beef just wanted to get off my chest. The OP of this thread took over Dell Winders Treasure America forum and he stole my password and posted on another forum under my name.

 

[Red_desert]

This is an old beef just wanted to get off my chest. The OP of this thread took over Dell Winders Treasure America forum and he stole my password and posted on another forum under my name.

I do remember him saying that, about taking over Dell's forum. Also thought Dell had a pair of stainless-steel L-Rods with handles. If I was going to dowse around salt-water coast, in my thinking those would be ideal. Treasure hunters who understand the difference a metal used as an electrode makes (for electrolysis cleaning). Stainless-steel comes out on very top on the high end. I was thinking a pair of rods, if stainless-steel should be more resistant to salt corrosion.

 

[signal_line]

I do remember him saying that, about taking over Dell's forum. Also thought Dell had a pair of stainless-steel L-Rods with handles. If I was going to dowse around salt-water coast, in my thinking those would be ideal. Treasure hunters who understand the difference a metal used as an electrode makes (for electrolysis cleaning). Stainless-steel comes out on very top on the high end. I was thinking a pair of rods, if stainless-steel should be more resistant to salt corrosion.

Yeah he modified some of my posts, too, and deleted some. You can make own conclusions.

Yeah, stainless depends on the alloy. I got some stainless welding rod and it corroded a little bit, don’t know why. Bob Fitzgerald uses stainless L-rods. He lives on the coast. Another option is GDI-detectors in Greece sells some gold plated rods. A little pricey but I got a pair and they are very nice and smooth. I had been using some of Dell’s rods but these are really a big improvement. I went for the Telerods because they are adjustable length and the have a nice case. One thing I know in the field equipment gets dirty just inside the back pack.

 

[signal_line]

Yeah he modified some of my posts, too, and deleted some. You can make own conclusions.

Yeah, stainless depends on the alloy. I got some stainless welding rod and it corroded a little bit, don’t know why. Bob Fitzgerald uses stainless L-rods. He live on the coast. Another option is GDI-detectors in Greece sells some gold plated rods. A little pricey but I got a pair and they are very nice and smooth. I had been using some of Dell’s rods but these are really a big improvement. I went for the Telerods because they are adjustable length and the have a B nice case. One thing I know in the field equipment gets dirty just inside the B pack pack.

SORRY FOR THE TYPOS. Also GDI sells single L-rods. You have to scroll down the page a ways

 

[Red_desert]

I've come across gold plated rods in search results. Wonder if stainless alloy rods differ any on bending?

 

[signal_line]

I don’t know what you are referring to but stainless is easy enough to bend

 

[Red_desert]

I don’t know what you are referring to but stainless is easy enough to bend

That's good! I never tried bending stainless rods myself but remember a comment where they said the rods had to be heated.

 

[boogeyman]

That's good! I never tried bending stainless rods myself but remember a comment where they said the rods had to be heated.

Naw, just make a good jig & a few taps with a plastic hammer will get you nice clean bends. Made a couple of mine from salvaged oak pallet wood. Anyone can do it. Hint drill a hole to fit the diameter of your rod then saw the piece of wood through the whole. The kerf of the saw blade takes away enough to allow the jig to grip the rod nicely without maring .

 

[signal_line]

Naw, just make a good jig & a few taps with a plastic hammer will get you nice clean bends. Made a couple of mine from salvaged oak pallet wood. Anyone can do it. Hint drill a hole to fit the diameter of your rod then saw the piece of wood through the whole. The kerf of the saw blade takes away enough to allow the jig to grip the rod nicely without maring .

Are you going to sell L-rods? Be careful about alloys—many are poisonous. Brass is a good example—some contain lead. That stainless welding rod corroded in a dry climate, a thousand miles from any saltwater. And different people are adversely affected to various metals, copper is one.

 

[signal_line]

Are you going to sell L-rods? Be careful about alloys—many are poisonous. Brass is a good example—some contain lead. That stainless welding rod corroded in a dry climate, a thousand miles from any saltwater. And different people are adversely affected to various metals, copper is one.

Obviously it depends on the diameter of the rod and probably the alloy, too. I don’t like heavy rods, 3/16” is ridiculous.