Prototype Equinox complete shaft, ASSEMBLED! (Pictures)

sgoss66

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Hi, all!

I am happy to announce that parts for one of the two prototype Equinox complete carbon-fiber shafts arrived today, and I finished assembly. I am VERY pleased with the quality of the parts -- especially the clamping cam lock, which was a large portion of the focus for the design. I have done a small amount of testing/evaluation of this prototype, and I am happy to say that the strength/security of the clamp is impressive, and at this point in my testing, definitely seems to meet the design intent. Overall, I see nothing about the shaft that needs to be changed/tweaked at this point. I plan to build the second prototype when parts arrive for it on Tuesday, and then will do more testing and evaluation of both shafts. Soon thereafter, I expect to place a "first order" for parts, from one of the two suppliers, so that I can FINALLY begin offering the shafts for sale!

Here are a few pictures...

Thanks!

Steve

fullshafttop-50.jpg

fullshaftside-rot-50.jpg

camlockandcoil2-50.jpg

camlocktop-50.jpg

camlockopen-50.jpg

camlockleft-50.jpg

camlockright-50.jpg
 

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sonofadigger

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Looks good hopefully everything works out with all the test I definitely will be keeping an eye out for the results
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Thanks, sonofadigger!

I'll post pictures of the second prototype, once it's finished (which I expect to be on Tuesday). I'm expecting that prototype to be successful, as well. Testing will not take too long, it does not appear; after evaluation is complete, I will choose the supplier to contract with whom I feel will provide the best service, and then place a large order for all the parts needed for production/sale of the shafts!

Thanks!

Steve
 

Hal2k

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Thanks Steve, I will be keeping eye out for updates, interested in changing out the shaft on my 800 to carbon fiber.
 

HighVDI

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Nice work Steve! Can't wait to upgrade mine.
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Thanks all, for the kind words!

Lots of PMs that I'll answer this evening (gotta go do some Christmas shopping right now, LOL!)

I appreciate everyone's interest. More info will follow, soon...

Steve
 

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Nice engineering! :occasion14:

I love the engineering design process and quality engineering! :icon_thumleft:
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Professor --

Thanks! Much appreciated! I enjoy the engineering/design process as well! My dad is an engineer, and that's what I started out in, in college, before switching over to the sciences. But I still enjoy it, and would have enjoyed that career path, as well!

Steve
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Wow, it is going to be harder than I anticipated to decide which supplier to choose! I received the parts for the second prototype today, and WOW! Another very high-quality, extremely strong/secure cam lock, and very nice tubes...I am EXTREMELY pleased, and encouraged.

These are going to be really nice shafts...

Time for some side-by-side testing and evaluation, of the two prototypes!


Steve

camlocktop-50.jpg

camlockopen-50.jpg

camlockright-50.jpg

camlockleft-50.jpg
 

Voyager32

Greenie
Mar 10, 2018
11
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Equinox 600
Harbor freight
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looks great, I’m certainly interested, what will the length be when collapsed, seems like it would a nice length for diving.
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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A2coins -- thanks!

Voyager32 -- thanks for the kind words, and your interest.

The overall length of the upper shaft will be 34 7/16"...and the portion of the clamping cam lock that clamps the lower tube extends about another inch. So, figure 36" there; thus, if you took out the lower rod, the upper shaft plus cam lock length will be about 36".

To answer your question, though, -- if you do not have the coil cable attached to the shaft with Velcro straps or whatever -- i.e. so that the lower rod could slide completely up and into the shaft, then you could shove the lower rod up inside the shaft all the way until the end of the lower rod hits the little "nipple" on the bottom of the control box handle, that protrudes into the upper shaft. In other words, it could slide almost completely up, except for the few inches of the lower rod. I went ahead and did just this to get you some measurements, on my prototype shaft, and using one of my "standard-length" lower rods (26" long). With the lower rod shoved all the way up into the shaft until hit hits that "nipple" on the bottom of the handle, I measured from the butt end of the shaft, to the end of the lower rod -- and got about 39" in length. Of course, you still then have the coil beyond the bottom of the lower rod, and depending upon how you adjust the coil, you have that to deal with as well in terms of length. If you adjusted the coil to be perpendicular to the shaft -- i.e. sort of forming a "T" shape between the shaft, and the coil, then the distance from the butt-end of the shaft to the bottom of the coil skid plate is roughly 39 3/4". Of course, if you instead flattened the coil out, to be "parallel" in orientation to the shaft, then that changes things -- and would then depend on which coil you have attached.

Bottom line though, you could effectively "detect" with the lower rod slid all the way up into the upper, as far as it will go, and have a roughly 39" long machine, from butt-end to the top of the coil.

Hope that helps; if not, let me know and I'll draw a diagram!

Thanks!

Steve
 

Voyager32

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Mar 10, 2018
11
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I know of a guy that trimmed the plastic location knob and was able to push the shaft up another 7 or 8 inches to make a very short unit for diving, you have to drill another hole for the spring button though, might be a mod you could incorporate in your design.
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Voyager --

Interesting!

And in the case with my shaft, one wouldn't even NEED to drill that button hole; since my cam lock is so secure that it doesn't REQUIRE spring button/button holes, if you trimmed off the plastic knob/nipple at the bottom of the control/box handle, you'd be all set. I will say though that there wasn't much lower rod "sticking out," when I did the testing last night and shoved it up/in the upper shaft as far as I could, before hitting that little knob. There was only about 3 inches of the lower that would not fit into the upper...so unless that last few inches is important in a particular case, there might not even be a need to trim off that little knob on the bottom of the control-box handle. I know Minelab put that knob on there, to be SURE that the control box handle couldn't "twist" on the upper shaft -- kind of an extra "security" feature. So, if one trimmed it, they'd probably want to keep about 2 mm of it remaining (the actual shaft thickness is about 2mm), so that it would fit into (but not THROUGH) the shaft hole, and still provide a little of that extra certainty that the control-box handle could never "spin" on the shaft...

Steve
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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For those interested...

Some folks have asked questions/have been curious as to the differences between the two cam locks. Here is a picture, that helps to show a few of the (minor) differences...

Steve

camspecs(smallrot).jpg
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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flgliderpilot -- the hardware IS stainless, it's just painted black for aesthetics. Stainless was a definite requirement for the project, given that the EQX is frequently used in the water.

THANKS for the thoughts (which I of course totally agree with!) :)

One other note -- the reason I specified the cam locks to be SCREW-on, instead of being designed to be affixed permanently to the upper shaft via epoxy, is so that IF anyone should ever have an issue with the cam lock for whatever reason, it would be a simple, easy replacement. I'll have spare/replacement cam locks available in stock, at my website, and though I don't anticipate the need -- they will be available...and EASY to replace, should anyone ever need to do so.

Thanks, flgliderpilot!

Steve
 

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sgoss66

sgoss66

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Minelab Manticore, Minelab Equinox 800, Minelab Equinox 600, Minelab CTX 3030
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Thanks, USMC_Reaper! I appreciate the kind words!

Steve
 

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