S
Smee
Guest
Read it kinda quick, but having been an appliance trouble shooter . . . one thing is missing:
Did you check to make sure ONE SIDE of the breaker/fuse didn't trip?
On a 220 v dryer, one side (110v, we'll say "phase I" for convenience) is for the timer and motor, the other side (110v, we'll say "phase II" for convenience) is just for the heating element. If that side trips (and if you used two single breakers instead of a locked double breaker, it will be the side that trips) you will get NO HEAT, but the basket will spin and the timer will work.
220v is actually two different phases of 110v with a common ground or neutral. The biggest load is on the heating element side. Fixed a lot of dead dryers by flipping that breaker or changing the fuse.
Lots cheaper than a heating element, which seldom fails unless the unit is quite old.
Did you check to make sure ONE SIDE of the breaker/fuse didn't trip?
On a 220 v dryer, one side (110v, we'll say "phase I" for convenience) is for the timer and motor, the other side (110v, we'll say "phase II" for convenience) is just for the heating element. If that side trips (and if you used two single breakers instead of a locked double breaker, it will be the side that trips) you will get NO HEAT, but the basket will spin and the timer will work.
220v is actually two different phases of 110v with a common ground or neutral. The biggest load is on the heating element side. Fixed a lot of dead dryers by flipping that breaker or changing the fuse.
Lots cheaper than a heating element, which seldom fails unless the unit is quite old.