Oregon Vikings off topic.... free for all thread!

[Limitool]

Hey Viking.... I looked through some stuff and found a few items you might enjoy to try and experiment with. Some of these items will come in handy if you ever enter into the 3-D realm. And I have a couple of things for your hunting bow setup that might be of interest.

I did find an old rest that I believe will mount onto your bow and be VERY adjustable. Now with a little love given to it I'm sure it will clean right up and look brand new if you wanted it too. And I know your capable. This rest when mounted can be adjusted in and out (center-shot), back and forth and up and down. Now it appears to be just another overdraw bracket but it's not as the rest can be moved far forward toward bow riser and the bracket can also.

I also have a brand new still in case TOXONICS hunting sight. It's low power, large optic and has to be mounted on a sight bracket. It was given to me to try but I just never got around to it.

And I have some CHECK-IT micro-adjustable extended sights. 1 has a single hunting pin installed. And the other one has a 3-5 power scope mounted on it. Both are still fully functional.

If your interested in them just let me know and I'll ship them to ya.

Now the EASTON XX75's 2512's I have are all black shafts, no fletchings or nocks attached. I have the inserts. The reason I'm telling you this is because each shaft is 31" long and might work for ya.... MIGHT But I doubt you really know at this point how long they have to be until you get a solid anchor point and a permanent arrow rest mounted. Is this right...? Here's a few really bad pics (sorry).

 

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[Oregon Viking]

Yes I'am very interested! Thank you! I like the forward-back adjustability of that rest.... if adjustability is even a word...

The archery forum I joined had a few peeps say... nice wall art about my bow. Most said that when this bow was introduced it was wicked, and shoots as good as today's bows. Quite a few said they owned them and is a great bow. I was informed Hoyt did have a few over draw risers, mine was added, likely sold by Hoyt. A few forum members said the had gotten a lot of game with these bows. With the Master cams 315 FPS, not that I care about speed. In 1999 quad limbs were introduced, I think that would be split limbs?

This bow has a machined aluminum riser 1995 was the first year for that, pre-'95, cast riser.
The master cams were faster but harsh, this bow has command cams, smoother shooting. The manual states the cams need timed (I knew that) I believe modern bows are single cam. A few have expressed concerns about the grip on this bow, causes "torquing" the bow. I see what they are talking about, the grip is uncomfortable, feels like a golf ball between thumb and forefinger...feels like a 1/2 should be sanded off. Grips are easily replaceable though.

 

[Limitool]

Yes I'am very interested! Thank you! I like the forward-back adjustability of that rest.... if adjustability is even a word...

The archery forum I joined had a few peeps say... nice wall art about my bow. Most said that when this bow was introduced it was wicked, and shoots as good as today's bows. Quite a few said they owned them and is a great bow. I was informed Hoyt did have a few over draw risers, mine was added, likely sold by Hoyt. A few forum members said the had gotten a lot of game with these bows. With the Master cams 315 FPS, not that I care about speed. In 1999 quad limbs were introduced, I think that would be split limbs?

This bow has a machined aluminum riser 1995 was the first year for that, pre-'95, cast riser.
The master cams were faster but harsh, this bow has command cams, smoother shooting. The manual states the cams need timed (I knew that) I believe modern bows are single cam. A few have expressed concerns about the grip on this bow, causes "torquing" the bow. I see what they are talking about, the grip is uncomfortable, feels like a golf ball between thumb and forefinger...feels like a 1/2 should be sanded off. Grips are easily replaceable though.

Send me a pic of ONLY the back side of the riser where the arrow rest or a bracket would mount. When I first viewed your cams they "appeared" to not be radical. This meaning hopefully a 60% or less let-off. Now if you DO HAVE an overdraw riser... nothing I have will work for you outside of this bracket which would allow you to gain all forward motion possible.

We.. (you and I) could talk about a lot concerning this upcoming. Send me that pic I requested. I have a lot of other equipment also guy. I'm just trying to help out as best possible for ya from TN. I'll never use all of this equipment. I just want to keep enough to kick your ass should you ever show up! But in reality I have more knowledge than I do skill anymore. But, still would you care to take a bet?

Listen... all jokes aside: Send that pic, address (PM) and I'll get the equipment sent to ya Viking. But the arrow rest is the main thing right now.... Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

Here you go.



The over draw covered that entire square area. I was told by a few on the archery forum that is NOT an overdrive riser, but Hoyt designed and sold this overdraw...matching camo and all...for this riser. Also is there a reason if I couldn't change this over draw....which I have been informed I can from guys with the same bow. Just thinking. I realize over draws are so you can shoot shorter arrows..buy... why not just keep it (if I couldn't change, but I can..) and shoot longer arrows? So I would have a bow with the arrow rest back towards me a bit! Or is there a arrow rest placement issue I'am missing?


New info just gathered.

back in the mid 90's Hoyt compound bows had 3 different cams

- master ... 65% LO
- command ... 60% LO
- advance ... 80% LO
Also the 1995 Hoyt Fast Flite defiant has a huge fan base! I mean a lot of people saying what an accurate, fast and smooth bow it is! I'm not going to get excited about speed though.

I thank you Brad for spending the time to help me out!

OK I will guess you will recommend using a release. I like finger shooting. I like re-curves, up till 10 years ago was still using an old bear grizzly and a mid 80's martin lynx, bagged deer , bear (one) turkeys and wild boar. I have tried a few friends releases and I'm NOT a fan of having my hand behind my ear! So I'm very comfortable finger shooting.although the claim you can hold the weight easier...with a strap wrapped around your wrist/back of hand I don't see how.
How about a release like this.


This is what I have.




OK. After a couple of hours of research today I found that.. Today's bows do have a slight overdraw, for instance fall away rests. They are not to the extreme like years ago. Having the broad-head over your wrist can be dangerous, probably why overdraws have guards. Short arrows are lighter, faster and fly straighter...their reasoning not mine. A few agree heavy arrows hit harder. Longer arrows fly straight. Also almost everyone agrees really light arrows can "explode" your bow, like dry-firing.

Something I have not researched yet...I will tonight 3 hours most likely...fletching. Different kinds/shape/size of fletching will effect the arrows flight.

 

[Limitool]

Got your last post above buddy... Not now will I address 100%.

1st: Your riser pic above shows a 3-sided machined raised hump to "self-seat" the bracket designed for it...? Is this right? Or is it flat or introverted...? Can't tell from pic. The arrow rest I can send you requires a flat machined surface.

NO... you can't keep the original overdraw bracket and rest in place and just shoot a "longer" arrow. BUT... but..? If you can move the arrow rest forward (if your bracket allows this as mine does) toward the bow riser then yes possibly.

Glad to hear you bow probably has a 60%-65% let off. I came to that reasoning while just looking at your cams. And folks are RIGHT... this will lead to a more accurate bow. I bet it has a huge fan base. And I know I try and steer you away from SPEED but if this is bow is a Command (hopefully) or a Master any speed improvement would have to come from an overdraw, release aid and very light arrows. Don't do it. But if that riser does have a "specially" machined surface to only accept a Hoyt attached bracket... then we gotta go to plan "B".

FLETCHINGS: If you use a "pass through" rest you have to shoot straight mounted fletchings not curved. Unless things have changed any pass thru rest (break-away, flip rest) requires fletchings to be mounted straight to allow this to happen without interference.

We'll address release aid's tomorrow and other concerns. FYI: Shooting with fingers vastly increases draw length for any given bow (hence why I asked you earlier.) Later, Brad

 

[Limitool]

OK... Where were we?

!st. I wanna know if that "square" area where your arrow rest bracket mounts is perfectly flat or that 3 sided machined thing is rising up or down in this square area? If it rises above within that square area then "we" got a problem. And if so the one I can send won't mount on your bow. I just blew up your pic and it now appears it is introverted into the machined area... leaving a flat area... Is this right? I hope so!

2nd. It is MUCH easier to draw and hold a bow with a wrist pulled release aid. More muscles are utilized. BUT DON'T USE ONE WITHOUT GETTING A BOW SLING AND SETTING IT UP CORRECTLY (it's easy & cheap). I always used one for competition target and hunting. In fact I used the same release. But when I drew and anchored my hand was just below my ear and my right thumb was positioned into / behind my neck. I utilized a "kiss button" on the string also. When drawing I held my head straight forward (didn't turn it at all). The kiss button would land dead center of my lips with the string centered onto and touching my nose. Then I slightly tilted head forward pushing the string into my nose. Bow hand would be wide open.

The reason I mention this Viking is it would "shorten" your draw some and open "space" between the string and your left forearm when fired. This is assuming not to much hand is utilized / into holding the bow (not gripping it - hence the bow sling).

3. And the other release aid you have and asked about (hand held ones) will work also. It just takes more effort to draw and hold. Yes a wrist strap release takes getting used to. I believe if you started out with a hand held one and got used to it and then switched to the wrist pull one you'd like the change because it takes so much less effort. This will totally be up to you. It also has a bearing upon what arrow rest you end up with also this meaning "release aid vs finger shot". Now the one I can send comes with a prong rest and it is totally adjustable. BUT... these type rests are designed / meant for release shooters. You would have to be very good at "getting off the string" to use this finger shooting. This rest is spring loaded and sensitive.

And pass thru rest such as these require straight fletching and the nocks then properly installed so the cock feather is in the downward position when loaded. Here's another pic of the adjustable bracket and the prong arrow rest. Also my old wrist pull release. It was a FLETCHMATIC and utilized an adjustable wrist buckle up setup. Also I could adjust the length of the release aid itself from the strap. Hence I could anchor anywhere I decided and then adjust the release aid to fit THAT anchor (something to also think about concerning wrist pull releases). Also a "rope release" is faster, smoother and more forgiving then a direct mechanical hookup on string.

 

[Oregon Viking]

OK
3. And the other release aid you have and asked about (hand held ones) will work also. It just takes more effort to draw and hold. Yes a wrist strap release takes getting used to. I believe if you started out with a hand held one and got used to it and then switched to the wrist pull one you'd like the change because it takes so much less effort.

Seems to me starting out with a hand held is a step I can skip, I will start with a wrist strap release. If a wrist strap release is what I should be using, also won't have to buy a hand held...they are spendy! More research tells me the modern wrist releases are comfortable, not sure how old the one I have/pictured is.

I will investigate to see if the square area for mounting the arrow rest is flat.
OK It is flat. The overdraw bracket completely covers the square area.





I had an idea, looking at the arrow rest it looks decent, well made, lots of adjustments. Why can't I take the rest off of the overdraw bracket and install it on a adjustable bracket like the one you showed me?









Here is a pic I found same riser as mine. What do you think? If I can install an adjustable arrow rest this rest looks like it will not move forward much.



The above rest is about 2 inches closer to the riser then my overdrew.

Now doing research I found this pic on a forum asking for replacement rests, some seem to think the square cut out needs a rest like this.

 

[Limitool]

"I had an idea, looking at the arrow rest it looks decent, well made, lots of adjustments. Why can't I take the rest off of the overdraw bracket and install it on a adjustable bracket like the one you showed me?"

YOU CAN... If it will bolt on, come around the riser and be adjustable enough to accommodate all of the adjustments required for a full length arrow. I wondered this myself...? Any of the pics attached is what you WANT to end up with Viking. Yes... I now see the riser area for a arrow rest or bracket is flat. I just couldn't tell if that area was sunken or raised earlier. And that 2" closer to riser difference is a LOT.

Now I'm not 100% percent that the rest will just "bolt up" and be functional. That last / bottom pic above is different than anything I ever mounted. But I'm now convinced mine will bolt up and work. Meaning the bracket or the rest. Just remove yours and try it... that's all you can do. I'll write more tomorrow about release aids Viking. You'll like this upcoming knowledge / thinking. Later, Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

"I had an idea, looking at the arrow rest it looks decent, well made, lots of adjustments. Why can't I take the rest off of the overdraw bracket and install it on a adjustable bracket like the one you showed me?"

YOU CAN... If it will bolt on, come around the riser and be adjustable enough to accommodate all of the adjustments required for a full length arrow. I wondered this myself...? Any of the pics attached is what you WANT to end up with Viking. Yes... I now see the riser area for a arrow rest or bracket is flat. I just couldn't tell if that area was sunken or raised earlier. And that 2" closer to riser difference is a LOT.

Now I'm not 100% percent that the rest will just "bolt up" and be functional. That last / bottom pic above is different than anything I ever mounted. But I'm now convinced mine will bolt up and work. Meaning the bracket or the rest. Just remove yours and try it... that's all you can do. I'll write more tomorrow about release aids Viking. You'll like this upcoming knowledge / thinking. Later, Brad

I shot a friends bow that has this rest... I like it!!



Whisker Biscuit

You may have heard people discussing the “K.I.S.S.” (Keep It Simple, Stupid) method in various contexts and a whisker biscuit is the quintessence of that concept.

Whisker biscuits are simple and foolproof which has led them to be a favorite choice among hunters. Not only is there very little that can go wrong with them, but they are also very quiet as the arrow is released.
Downside

Of course, even the whisker biscuit comes with some tradeoffs.

1. While the odds of something catastrophic happening are almost non-existent, you give up a little performance on a smaller scale.

2. You can figure on losing a little arrow speed compared to a drop-away rest (think two to three feet per second).

3. The whisker biscuit has more contact with the arrow and fletchings than a drop-away rest which will cause slight irregularities in arrow flight.

For hunting purposes, the inaccuracies caused by the differing arrow flights are considered by most to be negligible.

He then informed me his bro has one of these.. I will get to try it soon.

 

[Limitool]

I'm going through some more archery stuff and packing into a box for ya... I'll mail soon to the address you sent.

In any of the "bristle" rests shown you better be using a release aid (in my opinion & a good one). These rests I would think would require a "quick" smooth release in which to support the arrow while passing through this fragile area of support. I'd suggest a more reliable old school proven rest and not one using a quickly worn surface.... But I have NEVER used one I admit. But... if using a heavy stiff full length arrow and a broadhead it just doesn't seen like much of a dependable support for 100's of shots...?

 

[Oregon Viking]

I'm going through some more archery stuff and packing into a box for ya... I'll mail soon to the address you sent.

In any of the "bristle" rests shown you better be using a release aid (in my opinion & a good one). These rests I would think would require a "quick" smooth release in which to support the arrow while passing through this fragile area of support. I'd suggest a more reliable old school proven rest and not one using a quickly worn surface.... But I have NEVER used one I admit. But... if using a heavy stiff full length arrow and a broadhead it just doesn't seen like much of a dependable support for 100's of shots...?

Thanks!
Yeh I'm researching that. But the wisker biscuit has the K.I.S.S concept.eh? I found out they have drop away rests... drop completely out of the arrows flight path..using a rip cord. Nothing touches the arrow... they are also expensive!

Actually shooting with the whisker biscuit ... the arrow stayed put even with me movin' around, BS'in with the owner of the bow. It held a heavy aluminum arrow quit well. I do realize they wear out after awhile but the new bristle technology seems to be slippery, yet strong. Plus I do not have to use an arrow with fletching that lines up with the prong style rests.... I'm just not ready to build my own arrows... If only I knew some one that could and did.... .........

 

[Peyton Manning]

Mods? can we change this to Oregon Vikings Archery thread?
( why does this make me think of dueling bangeos?)

 

[Oregon Viking]

Mods? can we change this to Oregon Vikings Archery thread?
( why does this make me think of dueling bangeos?)

No because if you look through out the thread history... more then archery. Request denied Gordon!

 

[Limitool]

Thanks!
Yeh I'm researching that. But the wisker biscuit has the K.I.S.S concept.eh? I found out they have drop away rests... drop completely out of the arrows flight path..using a rip cord. Nothing touches the arrow... they are also expensive!

Yea... so does a dual metal pronged spring loaded rest also. If your worried about metal on metal noise when drawing put some shrink tubing on each prong. Here's another version of a dual metal pronged rest. I used it for competition and hunting (nock arrow / cock feather down). Use straight mounted fletchings. These rests are very good, dependable and very adjustable. (I don't know where all that dust came from on the pics!)

 

[Oregon Viking]

Thanks!
Yeh I'm researching that. But the wisker biscuit has the K.I.S.S concept.eh? I found out they have drop away rests... drop completely out of the arrows flight path..using a rip cord. Nothing touches the arrow... they are also expensive!

Actually shooting with the whisker biscuit ... the arrow stayed put even with me movin' around, BS'in with the owner of the bow. It held a heavy aluminum arrow quit well. I do realize they wear out after awhile but the new bristle technology seems to be slippery, yet strong. Plus I do not have to use an arrow with fletching that lines up with the prong style rests.... I'm just not ready to build my own arrows... If only I knew some one that could and did.... .........

I want to get into 3D shooting, I would also like 3D targets in my back yard.....**&%$@#! I guess I need to sell some stuff to afford them! Kidney, car, guitars....

Update/edit^^^^

Reviews of this rest are not good, the bristles wear out fast and the arrow falls off the bristles easy.



The whisker biscuit? Could not find a bad review. The new bristle technology makes them better. Fletching/vane damage over time. But with the Arizona EZ-fletch you can repair them, and build arrows (vanes) and the cool thing is cause your arrow to spin more... This thing gets great reviews, what to you think Brad?
Short article.
https://www.ezfletch.com/

The rage now is "drop away" arrow rests.. They use a cable/cord require a lot of tuning...I will stick with the prong rest, or a whisker biscuit.

 

[Oregon Viking]

Retired 10-15 years ago. Turkey, bear, deer and a wild boar... and I believe I shot a salmon with this bow....
Release? Yeh.. when my fingers slipped ever so gently off the string... Dinner!!

 

[DizzyDigger]

One of my buddies bought an old Lynx at a g-sale, and wanted
to know if I thought it was suitable for hunting.

Wasn't in bad shape, but the cabling was suspect, so I was going
to suggest he take it to a local shop and see if the could replace
them. Then, I held it up and realized just how heavy it was...

I went in and grabbed one of my longbows, and let him compare.
Asked him which one of those you wanna pack around the woods
all day?

Been shooting nothing by traditional gear since about 1985. No sights,
no heavy risers, cables or wheels...just the simple function of draw
and shoot.

"So long as the new moon returns in heaven a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the
fascination of archery keep hold in the hearts of men."
Maurice Thompson, The Witchery of Archery (1878)

 

[Limitool]

Retired 10-15 years ago. Turkey, bear, deer and a wild boar... and I believe I shot a salmon with this bow....
Release? Yeh.. when my fingers slipped ever so gently off the string... Dinner!!

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View attachment 1597019

I rest my case on the "heavy weight" / let-off. Any compound bow that utilizes just a 50% let-off has my vote. Peak weight @ 68 lbs then holding just 34 lbs is still going to be a smoother, easier bow to shoot then the more radical cam ones.

Now I admit I never hunted wild boar, muskox, elephants or rhino's so I never needed anything above 55-60 lbs. Most of the total deer I took were shot with a bow weight of 53-55 lbs. And of those deer most were shot 10-20 yds. My longest shot EVER was about 48-50 yds. on a nice 9 pt. It dropped within 30 yds.

I'll send the stuff very soon Viking... promise, Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

I want to get into 3D shooting, I would also like 3D targets in my back yard.....**&%$@#! I guess I need to sell some stuff to afford them! Kidney, car, guitars....

Update/edit^^^^

Reviews of this rest are not good, the bristles wear out fast and the arrow falls off the bristles easy.

View attachment 1595946

The whisker biscuit? Could not find a bad review. The new bristle technology makes them better. Fletching/vane damage over time. But with the Arizona EZ-fletch you can repair them, and build arrows (vanes) and the cool thing is cause your arrow to spin more... This thing gets great reviews, what to you think Brad?
Short article.
https://www.ezfletch.com/

The rage now is "drop away" arrow rests.. They use a cable/cord require a lot of tuning...I will stick with the prong rest, or a whisker
biscuit.

So Brad have you checked out the Arizona easy fletch? https://www.ezfletch.com/
1. Tighter groups.
2. Flatter trajectory.
3. Quieter arrow flight.
4. Better Broadhead flight.

A couple of guys on an archery forum said yes, works great. Talked to a guy here locally that shoots 2512-2712 Easton aluminum's, I shot a 2712 with a whisker biscuit, then a prong rest... both worked great. 34" arrow has not been cut yet. He has a 32" reach and using his release felt very comfortable. The bow is currently at 70 lbs... but he is using your "slow down" technique also....using large shaft arrows. Kinetic energy... the 2712 hits the target hard.

 

[releventchair]

Still have a Hoyt Easton Impala. Shot and hunted with it for decades. Then had some disagreement shooting it from a sitting position. Doable ,just not well on quarter sized targets...O.K. ,bigger targets than that even.


Been shooting Excalibur crossbows of late.
Built one up to quite an outfit that you could hunt about anything with depending on nerve ,or lack there of.. (The model was used on Elephant once).

After wringing about all that could be out of it ,I sold it and kept a lesser one.