Too bad to hear about the Ford issue. Fords are awesome vehicles but these unexpected issues on new trucks are big drawback. We've just finished installing the eagle wheels and 33" tires on a 1996 Ram diesel project, surprised how well it perform at some rock crawling. Closing to 350k miles and still runs like a champ.
2011 Ford F150 truck problems, I'm really PO'd
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dieselram94
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Second generation Ram diesels are the best built, most durable and awesome combination of bulletproof parts ever factory assembled!!! Especially the twelve valves!!!
These are pics of mine when I cut it in half to switch from regular cab to extra cab! I love my truck!!
Sent from a spun out toilet paper tube (one ply)!!!
Those are awesome projects, man! Nice
dieselram94
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Thanks!! I am happy every time I drive my truck. Those old Dodges are the best!
Sent from a spun out toilet paper tube (one ply)!!!
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DeepseekerADS
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On the part I needed, I was all over eBay, didn't work.
My friends in Detroit found a dealership which verified they had the part in stock. So you're darned tootin I called them, even sent e-mails - non-responsive.
Then out of the blue this morning the dealership that verified my issue called me and said they have the part in now. I was on the run and forgot to verify the part number - but they're the ones who originally diagnosed me. I've an 0800 appointment Tuesday the 28th to have the work done.
And I also have a copy of the 16N02 bulletin which covers me up to 10 years & 150k miles to have it replaced at no cost. The work involves going into the transmission, so if I had to pay for it I'd be stuck with $1200 - $1600 which would be a very bitter pill.
My friends in Detroit found a dealership which verified they had the part in stock. So you're darned tootin I called them, even sent e-mails - non-responsive.
Then out of the blue this morning the dealership that verified my issue called me and said they have the part in now. I was on the run and forgot to verify the part number - but they're the ones who originally diagnosed me. I've an 0800 appointment Tuesday the 28th to have the work done.
And I also have a copy of the 16N02 bulletin which covers me up to 10 years & 150k miles to have it replaced at no cost. The work involves going into the transmission, so if I had to pay for it I'd be stuck with $1200 - $1600 which would be a very bitter pill.
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DeepseekerADS
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Today Nelson Ford, my local dealership in Martinsville installed a replacement lead frame connector at no charge. I've only driven it home thus far and it works normally. I'd contacted friends in Detroit about this, and Nelson Ford received it with instructions to install it on my truck - though they had 8 others on their list for the replacement.
It pays to spread the news sometimes.
It pays to spread the news sometimes.
pat-tekker-cat
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Uggghhh, the hubby just made me go buy a 2008 Ford F150, 65,000 miles...
Soooo, I find THIS video AFTER I got home with the truck....
I subscribed to this guys channel, quick.....
While I did have the truck checked at PepBoys, only throwing that ABS break light code, which, I haven't seen an F150 that the ABS light doesn't stay on..... I'll get brake fluid today, see if that helps. Could be the factory installed trailer brakes causing it to throw code 
The neighbor has 197k on his 2011, the hubby got 280k off his old 2012 F150,
both not without a lot of work being done on them, though.
I replaced the burnt out fog light yesterday, will get new air filter today,
do the simple things I can do & check, I have to write down all the cwap in the video to check, and just take it from there....
Of course, I won't be doing any engine tear downs but I can maybe keep an eye out and maintain some of the issues that seem to plague these monsters.
Oh, did I say FULLY ELECTRIC everything.....
more cwap to wear out & tear up....
wish me luck....
eta: OH, I meant to ask Deep if he still has his F150 & how's that working out....
and did I mention, my mechanic retired a week ago...
Soooo, I find THIS video AFTER I got home with the truck....
I subscribed to this guys channel, quick.....
While I did have the truck checked at PepBoys, only throwing that ABS break light code, which, I haven't seen an F150 that the ABS light doesn't stay on.....
I'll get brake fluid today, see if that helps. Could be the factory installed trailer brakes causing it to throw code The neighbor has 197k on his 2011, the hubby got 280k off his old 2012 F150,
both not without a lot of work being done on them, though.
I replaced the burnt out fog light yesterday, will get new air filter today,
do the simple things I can do & check, I have to write down all the cwap in the video to check, and just take it from there....
Of course, I won't be doing any engine tear downs
but I can maybe keep an eye out and maintain some of the issues that seem to plague these monsters.Oh, did I say FULLY ELECTRIC everything.....
more cwap to wear out & tear up....
wish me luck....
eta: OH, I meant to ask Deep if he still has his F150 & how's that working out....
and did I mention, my mechanic retired a week ago...
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Tpmetal
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the only thing I miss from my old dodge was that 12 valve Cummins. One of the best engines ever made in my opinion. But I got sick of replacing front ends and doing electrical work on it and had to get rid of it.
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Here's a fairly short ABS article.https://itstillruns.com/troubleshoot-abs-ford-f-5347992.html
My back up lights have been out on my 2008 F-250 quite a while.
Fighting 4WD issues has been a bigger priority...
Most trucks have "bugs" to work out. Or , to be bugged by. Switching trucks or brands or models or years just means learning new failures.
Exhaust manifolds cracking have been one issue I don't believe Ford can brag about their designing.
Among plenty of other things....
But in all fairness the truck has provided a lot of use too.
I am convinced auto makers design today's trucks to last 5 years. Anything surviving beyond that is incentive to build them worse.
My back up lights have been out on my 2008 F-250 quite a while.
Fighting 4WD issues has been a bigger priority...
Most trucks have "bugs" to work out. Or , to be bugged by. Switching trucks or brands or models or years just means learning new failures.
Exhaust manifolds cracking have been one issue I don't believe Ford can brag about their designing.
Among plenty of other things....
But in all fairness the truck has provided a lot of use too.
I am convinced auto makers design today's trucks to last 5 years. Anything surviving beyond that is incentive to build them worse.
Tpmetal
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Except the whole replacing ball joints and u joints about twice as often as any other truck on the road, not to mention the common electrical problems. That 12 valve though is a thing of beauty, i wish i had pulled it out of my truck and scrapped the truck instead of selling it as one.
dieselram94
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I guess I’ve been lucky, in the almost 20 years I’ve owned my truck I just finally replaced front wheel bearings and ball joints...
I agree best diesel you can get
pat-tekker-cat
Gold Member
Thanks Relchair, was going to bookmark, but it's kinda short & simple, thanks again.
Yeah, it's a 4wd, too. Nice truck, owned by 1 little old lady, her husband bought it for her, hauled it on a trailer to many different jobs all over the country.
The truck SAT more, than it was driven. The Mr said he never seen it driven, just sat....
I really admire Dram94, his knowledge, ability, & his workshop.
My Dad & Uncles always made me do my own car work (with "oversight", of course"}, the harder stuff, pulling gas tank, changing flywheels, etc, I'd let the guys have at it...
Dad would always say, "Have the starter (or alternator) off it, by time I get there"....
I like "old school". Just basics & fundamentals, not crazy about bells & whistles,
or the college course one needs, to work on all the bells & whistles.
Thank Dog for youtube & forums, like this, lol.
"Step 1
Turn the ignition to the "II" position.
Step 2
Check the dash lights. The ABS sensor light should come on for a few seconds, and then go off. If it stays on, then you'll need to check the ABS system with a visual inspection.
Step 3
Turn the steering wheel on the F150 all the way to the right. Look at the brake system on the front driver's side of the vehicle. With the wheels turned all the way to the right, you should be able to easily see the ABS sensor mounted to the wheel bearing assembly. There are two wires coming out of the sensor. The sensor is a small black box secured to the wheel bearing and hub assembly. It monitors the rotation of the rotor and wheel, checking to see if there is ever a stop or break in rotation while the vehicle is moving and the brakes are being applied. If the wires are broken or damaged in any way, your ABS is failing and needs to be serviced by a brake shop. If the wires look fine, repeat this step for each wheel. To check the passenger side wheel, you may need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. To check the rear wheels, you'll need to climb under the rear cab.
Turn the ignition off if all of the ABS wires appear to be normal and in-tact at the wheel hub. Wait 30 seconds and turn the ignition back on to the "II" position. If the ABS light remains on, the ABS is malfunctioning. You may have a bad sensor at one of the wheels. You'll need to have this component serviced by a professional brake shop."
Seems to always end with, "take it to be serviced by a professional"....
Guess the husband thought I needed a new project....
It is a nice looking truck, I'll try to get ya'll pics later....
when it's not raining, which should be like, in
September....
Yeah, it's a 4wd, too. Nice truck, owned by 1 little old lady, her husband bought it for her, hauled it on a trailer to many different jobs all over the country.
The truck SAT more, than it was driven. The Mr said he never seen it driven, just sat....
I really admire Dram94, his knowledge, ability, & his workshop.
My Dad & Uncles always made me do my own car work (with "oversight", of course"}, the harder stuff, pulling gas tank, changing flywheels, etc, I'd let the guys have at it...
Dad would always say, "Have the starter (or alternator) off it, by time I get there"....
I like "old school". Just basics & fundamentals, not crazy about bells & whistles,
or the college course one needs, to work on all the bells & whistles.
Thank Dog for youtube & forums, like this, lol.
"Step 1
Turn the ignition to the "II" position.
Step 2
Check the dash lights. The ABS sensor light should come on for a few seconds, and then go off. If it stays on, then you'll need to check the ABS system with a visual inspection.
Step 3
Turn the steering wheel on the F150 all the way to the right. Look at the brake system on the front driver's side of the vehicle. With the wheels turned all the way to the right, you should be able to easily see the ABS sensor mounted to the wheel bearing assembly. There are two wires coming out of the sensor. The sensor is a small black box secured to the wheel bearing and hub assembly. It monitors the rotation of the rotor and wheel, checking to see if there is ever a stop or break in rotation while the vehicle is moving and the brakes are being applied. If the wires are broken or damaged in any way, your ABS is failing and needs to be serviced by a brake shop. If the wires look fine, repeat this step for each wheel. To check the passenger side wheel, you may need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. To check the rear wheels, you'll need to climb under the rear cab.
Turn the ignition off if all of the ABS wires appear to be normal and in-tact at the wheel hub. Wait 30 seconds and turn the ignition back on to the "II" position. If the ABS light remains on, the ABS is malfunctioning. You may have a bad sensor at one of the wheels. You'll need to have this component serviced by a professional brake shop."
Seems to always end with, "take it to be serviced by a professional"....
Guess the husband thought I needed a new project....
It is a nice looking truck, I'll try to get ya'll pics later....
when it's not raining, which should be like, in
September....
Tpmetal
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yeah problem is they are so loud as trucks people never hear/feel them going, most only notice by the time the front tires start to wear super unevenly. Even then they will drive forever just like that until you snap that u joint in half lol. I remember those wheel bearing on my 98 were a bear to get off. Dissimilar metals pressure fit.......means they become one part here up north in winter time salt land. Ended up using my power steering and a wrench extension to pop off the bearing and rotor assembly....poor truck lol. My dream was always to drop a cummins into a old 70's or 80's chevy, and rhino line everything that doesn't move lol. I swear that engine could have every single piece of truck fall off it and it would still vibrate and rumble down the road.
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