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Thread: anyone with experience in varnishing ? (too visible brush strokes)

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  1. #31
    us
    ARC

    Aug 2014
    Bahia Del Espiritu Santo - "The Bay of the Holy Spirit” - La Florida
    JW 8X V.2 - ML X2 - VP 580
    22,047
    55628 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting
    The key is that "00"... it removes the strokes without removing much varnish... hence the "glass".

    There are many "pour" types for some projects they may be better.... they are "self leveling" etc.

    I never worked with these... beings many times I was doing bow rails... or transoms... or ladder rungs... or interiors of yachts... where this would never work.
    BillA likes this.
    DETECT WITH RESPECT - Have permission... Fill holes... Dispose of trash. - The Random Chat Thread - http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/ev...en-24-7-a.html

  2. #32
    cr
    May 2005
    Drake, Costa Rica
    1,458
    2044 times
    brushing is an art for sure
    wiping the brush for the amount of resin to be put down, laying it down, velocity, moving the resin generally, blah blah
    AARC likes this.

  3. #33
    cr
    May 2005
    Drake, Costa Rica
    1,458
    2044 times
    no, I too am dealing with curved surfaces which dictates thin layers

    edit: got to run

  4. #34
    cr
    May 2005
    Drake, Costa Rica
    1,458
    2044 times
    'morning ARC, would like to explore sanding

    substrates: 2 in mind, wood -> varnish
    the wood will always be a hardwood and with years of drying before use (have a bodega full of wood)
    the varnish will always be an exterior 'polyurethane' (assuming I can find) sanded . . . .

    ok, sanding wood is straight forward and I generally use 60/80, 150 if I'm being prissy, and 220 all with a 5" orbital sander
    I will then hand-sand with 600 grit as posted above.
    I have found that varnishing a 220 sanded surface simply leaves more material to be removed later with 600 grit.
    sanding green resin can be quite difficult, have far better results with the Norton paper

    the transition from a wood substrate to built-up varnish is somewhat gradual,
    a single thinned coat will not completely seal and must in any case be sanded (my huge error was going for thick coats !)
    the manner and extent of sanding between coats seems most tricky
    you (and others) recommend steel wool, others not because of a crazing effect
    - but I have seen crazing also over a sanded area due to a too-thin resin mix replicating the substrate below it

    the ss wool would seem to lack any leveling capability whereas paper can be fitted to a soft block

    why is the ss wool better ?

  5. #35
    us
    ARC

    Aug 2014
    Bahia Del Espiritu Santo - "The Bay of the Holy Spirit” - La Florida
    JW 8X V.2 - ML X2 - VP 580
    22,047
    55628 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting
    Use a spar varnish if sunlight if factor.

    SSW is enough to expose flaws and open small bubble pores and removes less... hence quicker buildup.
    BillA likes this.
    DETECT WITH RESPECT - Have permission... Fill holes... Dispose of trash. - The Random Chat Thread - http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/ev...en-24-7-a.html

  6. #36
    cr
    May 2005
    Drake, Costa Rica
    1,458
    2044 times
    I guess you are saying that "spar varnish" has a UV inhibitor

    ok, the ssw is for the lightest possible removal

    btw, have no bubble incidence (surface tension control of resin as a function of several components), but am very careful
    - a brush with straight cut bristles will entrain air like crazy
    AARC likes this.

  7. #37
    us
    Dec 2012
    lower hudson valley, N.Y.
    safari, ATPro, infinium, old Garrett BFO, Excal, Nox 800
    2,846
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    All Types Of Treasure Hunting
    I have done a lot of boat and furniture varnishing myself. I always use spar varnish and I never use stainless steel wool, I use regular 000 steel wool. AARC is 100% correct, prep is paramount and to get a fine smooth finish sanding with sandpaper between coats is necessary. I only use the wool as a final coat prep and only when I have a smooth several coat deep finish going. A good varnish job is tough work, lots of coats and sanding between, and keeping dust out of the finish can be hard especially if the work is outside. Sure looks nice when done though!!
    BillA and AARC like this.
    Ya won't find nuthin' if ya don't hunt

  8. #38
    us
    Aug 2012
    New Mexico USA
    My Head
    2,316
    1821 times
    I built a teak drainboard for my kitchen sink over 25 years ago. A carpenter wrote an article in Fine Homebuilding
    back then and he only used Waterlox. It's mainly tung oil with other stuff.
    I used it on the drainboard and looked good. When refinishing time came I used spar varnish but didn't get as good results. Eventually the spar pealed where use was greatest. I know a sink gets abused a lot. When it's time again and I'll probably go back to Waterlox.
    Some finishes sit on the surface and other's penetrate. Some do both. I think just from using a wipe on poly that it appears to do a bit of both. That might be choice #2 but before I decide I'll work with a piece of teak and compare the two.
    Nether of the 2 show brush strokes. The Waterlox because it's mostly tung oil and the poly can be put down with a rag. Additional coats are easier than with other top side finishes where sanding is needed.
    A factor in choosing is how it will be used. Example is shellac is great looking but doesn't stand up to some types of use. All poly top coats are not brand equal, for example on floors.
    I use a sanding sponge when using steel wool to keep fingers from gouging. I have also read of problems with the steel reacting to some wood so SS might be a good idea.
    AARC and BillA like this.
    Chop wood..Carry water

  9. #39
    us
    ARC

    Aug 2014
    Bahia Del Espiritu Santo - "The Bay of the Holy Spirit” - La Florida
    JW 8X V.2 - ML X2 - VP 580
    22,047
    55628 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting
    Ok... here is my dealio with SS...

    Let me paint a picture for yas...

    1.2 million dollar boat...

    Fiberglass / gel coat...

    Has teak bow rail from stern to bow...

    Rail done with regular steel wool...

    Guy shows up next morning to see his 1.2 million dollar boat COVERED with 1.2 million RUST dots... little squigs and lines.

    Overnight... in salt and morn dew.

    Guess what...

    Now your are either scrubbing for days trying to remove every rust spot... your fired... and you might be paying thousands in time and gelcoat.

    So...

    See the light ?

    DETECT WITH RESPECT - Have permission... Fill holes... Dispose of trash. - The Random Chat Thread - http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/ev...en-24-7-a.html

  10. #40
    us
    ARC

    Aug 2014
    Bahia Del Espiritu Santo - "The Bay of the Holy Spirit” - La Florida
    JW 8X V.2 - ML X2 - VP 580
    22,047
    55628 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting
    Ps...

    Anytime "precision" is needed... the extra couple of dollars (if even) for the SS is worth every penny.

    Skimp... and get skimped.

    Besides guys...

    I will point out an even better reason to pay a buck more and use SS...

    It last 5 times longer than regular Sw.
    Last edited by AARC; Dec 05, 2019 at 03:39 PM.
    DETECT WITH RESPECT - Have permission... Fill holes... Dispose of trash. - The Random Chat Thread - http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/ev...en-24-7-a.html

  11. #41
    us
    Aug 2012
    New Mexico USA
    My Head
    2,316
    1821 times
    Quote Originally Posted by AARC View Post
    Ok... here is my dealio with SS...

    Let me paint a picture for yas...

    1.2 million dollar boat...

    Fiberglass / gel coat...

    Has teak bow rail from stern to bow...

    Rail done with regular steel wool...

    Guy shows up next morning to see his 1.2 million dollar boat COVERED with 1.2 million RUST dots... little squigs and lines.

    Overnight... in salt and morn dew.

    Guess what...

    Now your are either scrubbing for days trying to remove every rust spot... your fired... and you might be paying thousands in time and gelcoat.

    So...

    See the light ?


    I'm scratching my head to remember. Was it teak in particular that had a reaction to regular steel wool or was it more general.
    I know teak absorbs silicon from the soil. Probably part of a process like petrifaction happened in the turning wood into stone.
    Teak can be tougher on power tools because of silicon. The guy on the show Yankee Workshop turned me on to the silicon attribute
    teak has when he built a teak bench.
    Rust can be used to stain wood. Soak a wool pad in some water and you will get a rather nice color if your heading toward a cherry
    look. I believe steel wool leaves stuff behind in the wood grain. I've seen it when I've done a wipe down. But at least with teak I would be careful using regular steel wool.

    AARC is the gel cote you use a poly product? I've only used Gel once. I have seen it used for projects on woodworking shows and they seem to like the way it works.
    Chop wood..Carry water

  12. #42
    cr
    May 2005
    Drake, Costa Rica
    1,458
    2044 times
    carry on with the discussion(s) guys, its all informative

    this post is for the uninformed (and those really resistant to getting the message)

    contamination takes several forms and must be addressed at the onset
    - do not paint from the container even if diluted appropriately
    - use a new container for each session
    - filter the varnish as it is poured into the painting container
    - if the brush dries out, also 'cleaned', pitch it

    my progress report is mixed at best, still seeing brush stroke effects
    am good at sanding

 

 
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