Garage sale find this morning, vintage muzzle loader from the 1800s?

[artslinger]

I got up today really early before work to hit a comm sale. I scored this rifle, unfortunately is so rusty that I can't find any writing to determine the maker. As always, any thoughts, comments, and recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Artslinger

 

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[kingskid1611]

That would make a great wall hanger. It amazes me what you can find in a garage sale.

 

[Mudflap]

That's a neat score!! Nice goin. That would make a neat refurb project. Maybe a little electrolysis?

 

[ethanfez]

Nice! What did you have to pay for that?

 

[huntsman53]

Nice find and I agree that it would be a great restoration project. In the process of restoring the rifle, you might find some Maker's marks.


Frank

 

[AlienLifeForm]

Awesome find!

 

[uglymailman]

Hope you can get an i.d. on that. I'm sure some gun guy's (or gal's) will chime in. Good luck.

 

[leadnbrass]

Looks to be a Pennsylvania Kentucky long rifle.

Curly maple stock?

Stock and trigger guard shape seem to be Huntingdon County PA.

Just typing out loud.

 

[artslinger]

Looks to be a Pennsylvania Kentucky long rifle.

Curly maple stock?

Stock and trigger guard shape seem to be Huntingdon County PA.

Just typing out loud.

Thank you. Yes Curly Maple stock. I'll review the information for that style. Thanks to all for all the comments and recommendations. I appreciate them.

artslinger

 

[scruggs]

Fantastic find!

 

[GB1]

very pretty

 

[knighthunter]

Very nice. Seems to me it has the ramrod included. I think that's a big bonus.

 

[captain flintlock]

Wow! Great find. I agree with Leadnbrass that it looks like a Pennsylvania or Kentucky long riffle. I think it is 18th century and originally a flintlock. It was very common in the 1840's or so to be switched over to percussion cap. I personally wouldn't touch a thing on it as far as cleaning or restoration. That's 230+ years of patina and removing it could lessen the value. A beautiful piece IMO and I would be proud to own it! Great job finding it.

 

[OldSowBreath]

Usually that barrel will be marked. You should be able to remove the stock holding pins and the screw at the top of the tang. Barrels are usually marked on the top, back towards the hammer, or in the same area on the bottom of the barrel. That was a tip from my brother who is a gunsmith and collector, and I just found the maker on the bottom of the barrel of one of them, obscured by the stock. Sometimes they are marked on the side, usually again back toward the hammer.

The lock may be marked on the broad part beneath the hammer strike, or on the inside plate of the lock. I rehab a lot of old flintlocks and percussions, and I don't think it hurts them at all to soak the metal parts in either Hoppe's Gun Oil or Break Free for a week or so, and scour off the rust. I use a plastic scouring pad first, and sometimes will go with very fine sandpaper if its not hurting the metal. Leave the wood alone, or you can use a slightly damp microfiber cloth on it. Sometimes you can polish it up with a little linseed oil on a rag. Don't do anything to the scratches and dents in the wood as they are part of a gun's history.

BTW - that wood is great!

Looking at the photos again - that lock certainly looks like a later replacement, possibly because it may have converted from a flintlock. It looks like a larger lock was originally there, and that was filled in with a wood filler a long time ago. Fairly cheap lock, I think. However, if you find a "D Crockett" or "D Boone" anywhere, please email me first.

 

[artslinger]

Thanks to all once again for the feedback, recommendations, and guidance. I truly appreciate it. I'll inspect it again, and focus on the areas that OldSowBreath mentions. :-)

artslinger

 

[captain flintlock]

The lock may be marked on the broad part beneath the hammer strike, or on the inside plate of the lock. I rehab a lot of old flintlocks and percussions, and I don't think it hurts them at all to soak the metal parts in either Hoppe's Gun Oil or Break Free for a week or so, and scour off the rust. I use a plastic scouring pad first, and sometimes will go with very fine sandpaper if its not hurting the metal. Leave the wood alone, or you can use a slightly damp microfiber cloth on it. Sometimes you can polish it up with a little linseed oil on a rag. Don't do anything to the scratches and dents in the wood as they are part of a gun's history.

BTW - that wood is great!:

You're right. After looking a little closer at the pics, I see the heavy rust on some of the metal parts. It'll be a really nice looking piece after a bit of rehab.

 

[trdking]

Wow that wood is incredible! I found a Maynard at a yard sale earlier this year. I agree above Separate the stock from the metal before you do any rust removal. and do not touch the wood, its fantastic. Try to find out what it is before you go for the derusting. If it is special, let an expert restore it

 

[trdking]

OH and make sure it is not loaded!

 

[sprailroad]

Well here it is again, another item that I wish could talk and tell us it's story, I'd enjoy just sitting there to listen.

 

[huntsman53]

Thanks to all once again for the feedback, recommendations, and guidance. I truly appreciate it. I'll inspect it again, and focus on the areas that OldSowBreath mentions. :-)

artslinger

OldSowBreath is correct on where the markings should be. However, if old Gunsmith made, then all bets are off but there should be some identifying marks. Also, when you remove the barrel, lock plate and trigger assembly from the stock, check out the whole inside of the stock for the Maker's initials or name including under the metal butt plate.


Frank