AT Pro Pinpointing help

[JmCraz8]

I'm still learning my machine just got it and was having trouble with pinpointing it's not like my 250, is it the very first rectangle the one closest to the shaft the main point for the the pinpoint or the 2nd or 3rd? I have no idea lol

 

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[JmCraz8]

Is there any good tips/or techniques you all use?

 

[GrizLeeBear]

Pinpointing is usually done as an "X" pattern. Move back and forth, noting the strongest signal. Then move 90 degrees to the side and do the same thing. The intersection of the X is the spot. Many soil factors can affect where your machine sees the target, but the X will get you close.

 

[JmCraz8]

Pinpointing is usually done as an "X" pattern. Move back and forth, noting the strongest signal. Then move 90 degrees to the side and do the same thing. The intersection of the X is the spot. Many soil factors can affect where your machine sees the target, but the X will get you close.

Thanks, I'll definitely try that technique.

 

[Trackerman]

Easiest way to pinpoint on the at is press pinpoint on target go forward till signal fades then back till signal fades then left till signal fades then right till signal fades. If it fades in all directions your target will be in the center where the coil target is.

 

[Moonrover]

I've watched fellows pinpoint on a sandy surface and use the X method until they are sure they have found the strongest signal in both directions then ... mark the sand with the coil imprint. Of course this wont work for solid soil. I've been putting a golf T down where I think the strongest signal is then recheck and move it if needed. Sometimes a little pebble works and I kick it into place as I recheck the area. I'm a novice, and it shows! Seasoned MDers get pretty good at spotting the location where the best signal was found without using a physical marker.

The target spot is just forward of the shaft pivot connection.

Also another marking method is to get the strongest signal spot then push the coil forward until the signal stops. Place your toe at the rear of the coil and that is where you should dig.

My first inclination before I dig is to use a hand held ProPointer just in case the target is so close to the surface that I can scratch it up with a flick or two of a knife. ProPointer does not have much more than an inch of detection range. A good many of the coins I've picked up are recent drops anyway.

Two days ago I watched a fellow use a small shovel with a long handle to shove into the ground, push forward on the handle to make a temporary slot in the ground. Then he would use his ProPointer in the slot to get the exact location of the metal "find". Really easy to simply stomp the slot closed leaving a nearly invisible soil disturbance.

M

 

[ozzie jack]

I just push pinpoint and drag the coil back towards me, if it stops with a sharp cut off sound its a flat target coin, washer or flat bottle top. If its a erratic cut off then its trash or a ring.
When i pull coil back towards me, once sound stops the rule i got from garrett is the shallow target is just under the end of coil and a deep target is back from the end towards the middle of the coil due to the cone shape of how a DD coil works in soil.

 

[JmCraz8]

I've watched fellows pinpoint on a sandy surface and use the X method until they are sure they have found the strongest signal in both directions then ... mark the sand with the coil imprint. Of course this wont work for solid soil. I've been putting a golf T down where I think the strongest signal is then recheck and move it if needed. Sometimes a little pebble works and I kick it into place as I recheck the area. I'm a novice, and it shows! Seasoned MDers get pretty good at spotting the location where the best signal was found without using a physical marker.

The target spot is just forward of the shaft pivot connection.

Also another marking method is to get the strongest signal spot then push the coil forward until the signal stops. Place your toe at the rear of the coil and that is where you should dig.

My first inclination before I dig is to use a hand held ProPointer just in case the target is so close to the surface that I can scratch it up with a flick or two of a knife. ProPointer does not have much more than an inch of detection range. A good many of the coins I've picked up are recent drops anyway.

Two days ago I watched a fellow use a small shovel with a long handle to shove into the ground, push forward on the handle to make a temporary slot in the ground. Then he would use his ProPointer in the slot to get the exact location of the metal "find". Really easy to simply stomp the slot closed leaving a nearly invisible soil disturbance.

M

I never thought about using a golf tee, i'll definitely start using one, sometimes i forget where the target was haha. Thanks everyone i'll try all techniques to see which one is better for me. HH!!!!

 

[tims1chap]

Garrett actually has several videos on their site about this and other things.

 

[gunsil]

Moonrover, you should google propointer depth modification. Simply by sliding a coin down the side of your propointer you can make it sensitive to 3-4 inches!! It costs nothing, works well, and doesn't hurt your propointer or the warranty!!

 

[Moonrover]

Moonrover, you should google propointer depth modification. Simply by sliding a coin down the side of your propointer you can make it sensitive to 3-4 inches!! It costs nothing, works well, and doesn't hurt your propointer or the warranty!!

Thanks. Yes I did see a video demonstrating that, but have not used the method yet. Next time out, I will try it. Raining right now here in central Texas so the soil should be easier to dig in a few hours. Been so dry that digging in concrete could not be any more difficult !! Sort of miss my old soil back home in Ohio.

M