X-Terra70_TreasureHunter
Hero Member
- Oct 19, 2007
- 656
- 13
- Detector(s) used
- X-Terra70, X-Terra 50, Ace250, Ace150, GTI 1500,GTA 1000 Ultra, Tejon, Vaquero
Tip #1
SAVE YOUR KNEES AND PANTS
I have a great trick I just learned and would like to pass it on to everyone here as a tip, using rubber backed car floor mats to kneel on while digging. That's right, take them right from the car's floorboard to the ground, not only do they form a padded barrier between your knees and all those hard rocks and stones, they also keep your pants dry from the morning dew and transport easy enough by simply rolling them up until needed.
Tip#2
HUNT OLD HOUSES
I see old houses all the time that have been rezoned to commercial and are being used for businesses. I have yet to be turned down at one of these when asking permission to hunt. I feel that these places are not as personal to people as their private residence. Another plus is that most of us hunt in the evening or on weekends when these places are closed and we do not interfere with their operation.
Tip#3
FAIRGROUND HUNTING
Hello everyone, I have a few tips to share for those that like to coin shoot fair grounds, hope they are of some value, they work very well for me.
1. If the fair is in progress and you go, take along a spiral index card notebook and denote the locations of all the booths, especially the food vendors, they will have the highest traffic and yield the greatest coin flow. I make a rough map of the vendors represented by squares on a grid, then I mark food vendors with an "F", jewelry vendors with an "J" and so on.
2. If the fair or event is over, you can still locate the vendor's booths by simply looking for the new grass, tents and people are hard on grass and leave large muddy patches once finished, the land owners will reseed the lawns and this is a sure tell sign of a high traffic area. The bright, fresh grass stands out like a beacon in the night pointing the way to untold riches.
Tip#4
SAFETY TIP
I would like to add my tip if I may, use your metal detector set on all metal (with no discrimination) and scan trees before they are to be cut down or reduces to logs, there is nothing like a high speed chain saw blade hitting a nail or barbed wire to ruin someone's day. Your metal detector can save their life or permanent disfigurement by avoiding unseen hazardous areas.
Tip#5
USING OLD MAPS
Metal Detectorist's tend to overlook the importance of old maps in their coin searches. Completely forgotten about is the existence of early county maps that contain a wealth of information. Known as Land Ownership maps they represented a very detailed picture of the population of a given area. A large volume of these rare and sometimes valuable maps were produced in the mid 19th century for publicity purposes, property assessment and to attract new migrants A dedicated Treasure Hunter should research this wonderful item, for they continue to be a great asset in researching for coins, forgotten towns, and other sources of potential discovery.
The original cartographers and engravers produced these giant wall maps, that could average a 6 foot tall image and that clearly defined different survey zones. These maps focused on tax land assessment, supervisory boards, land deeds, political and voter districts. They would show the locality of a property, name of the resident, possible occupation, acreage owned and other notable ancestry interests. Outside of the libraries and government institutions that have a limited staff to assist you with your project. One should look for on-line map libraries for all your needs. These entities are quick to respond to inquiries and can offer a large library of premium priced images of outstanding quality. Browsing the Internet the ever growing entourage of Metal detector enthusiasts, Treasure Seekers who should be aware of two map libraries that have a reputation for quality reproductions.
Either business has the professional staff and time to help you with your research. HISTORIC MAPS RESTORED is both a commercial enterprise and a non-profit organization that has for sale, sharp digitally remastered prints. They carry a enormous bank of maps of old mining areas, ghost towns, military outposts and forts, vanished settlements, towns, railroad routes, overgrown wagon routes, stagecoach halts and the list goes on. They have holdings of early edition topographic maps show in great detail the forgotten settlements, that once romanced old saloons, bordello's and a wealth of other buildings. Activities of the past generally leave there mark forever and with use of this maps, you will have at your disposal a tremendous tool for in depth research. Be aware that the old surveyors didn't miss a thing. Even the most modest shack, cabin or human involvement was marked on the old maps. So, do not be confused by a square dot in the middle of nowhere, its not a printing error, it is likely an old miner's cabin? In addition is another website of great maps. MAPS OF THE PAST Both map libraries have a wide selection of land ownership maps, ideal for a detector searches.
Tip#6
Lots of large ice chest and coolers have a moveable plastic storage tray that comes with them. These are usually rectangular in shape and are used to keep your dry goods off the ice inside the cooler. You can also use a plastic Tupperware tray or a similar tray (as long as it is plastic and deep).
Tip #7
I use these trays to speed up my digs. Simply put the dirt you dig out the tray. After every couple of scoops, run your coil over the dirt in the tray. Since the tray is plastic, it will not cause any false reading.
If your detector beeps they you know you have scooped out the object (now just sift around in the tray until you find it). If your detector does not beep, you will know its still in the ground (just keep scooping).
Every four scoops, dump the tray out near the hole you are digging. This way the amount of dirt in the container is minimal, and you do not have to search through as much once your detector says the object is in the tray.
I have found that this “process of elimination” speeds up my digs. It also makes re-filling your holes quick; you just invert the tray and use it to drag the pile of dirt you made back into the hole.
Tip#8
When searching for cellar holes in the woods
When traveling the back roads or the forgotten roads in your state and maybe in other states as well, look for "orange day lilies" or the leaves. They are in front of the house by the road in more than 60% of the cellar holes in the woods. Also watch for 4 or 5 Maple Trees equally spaced along the road, a sure indication. Other sure signs are old lilac bushes and the ground cover "myrtle".
One of the first places to detect these sites is right by the road and around the well hole!
If you have a farm field where you think there was a house, look for shards of brick and white and blue pottery! If you see that? You are in for some fun my friend.
Tip #9
Film canisters
Here is a idea for carrying extra 9 volt batteries and not having the terminals short out. I heard of putting a 9 volt connector on it with the wires cut off. Then I though, "what if a coin slips between the connector and battery". So that got me thinking. What could I use that truly protects the terminals? I came up with a Kodak 35 mm film canister. I don't know if other brands will work. Plus if you wear a hat that has the elastic loops around the outside that's the perfect place to carry it. After all that is what those loops are for, film canisters
Tip #10
Finding Old Farmhouses.
I've found old farmhouses by looking for rockpiles in farmfields. What better place to throw all the rocks in your field then in an old cellar hole. Also check out terraserver or terrafly for tell tale signs of stonewalls and cellar holes in your area. Look for patches of brush or trees in large open fields, sometimes several buildings are clustered together. Lineing up straight lines with old maps can sometimes put you on ancient roadways. Walking the roadways look carefully to both sides throughout wooded areas for sunk in depressions that are not noticable from the air. GPS's are always a good idea and can be used to mark down sites for future hunts. Old bottles can often tip you off to a nearby dwelling as well as give you an estimate about the age of a site. Don't always go by the first bottles you find, take time and do a thoural search. Many times newer houses were built on top of older foundations.
Tip#11
Research is only as fun as you make it!
In reviewing old plat maps at our local library you have access to dimensions, survey way points and in some cases latitude and longitude references. I purchased a topo cd from maptech which allows search by feature, eg rail line, well, historic points of interest, etc. Which leads me to putting all this information together to get on target.
Although the plat maps had measurements many were a compilation of structures that no longer exist. Take a plat with 4 structures shown from 100 years ago and in more cases than not you will be on another planet when searching. Which leads me to add another tool. GPS! this provides reference points of known maps when all physical structures are gone.
Tip#12
I'm always looking for tips from all you fellow metal detecting addicts out there and learning all the time. I have a tip that will help those looking for those all farm homes torn down years ago. I've read tips from getting old maps,talking to seniors,even renting a plane to spot these old home locations. I found a easy way to find old farm homes sites and I wish to share this with all you that have shared your ideas with me.
I live out in the country, with farmland all around.I would always end up driveing to town to metal detect and people in town would tell me I would have better luck hunting the old farm homes, many of which were torn down and now farm fields, but how do I find them? Maps, hear say, airplane, etc. Frustrated, I drove down back roads looking for old farm homes that were still standing, which were far and few, Until one day driving, I noticed something shining in a farm field being prepared for spring planting, curious,I pulled over, got out and checked out what was being reflected,to my surprise it was a piece of glass, infact there was lots of pieces of glass being reflected by the sun.
Thats when it hit me, these were part of the remains of a house which stood there once. Since then I have found many sites thanks to the glass remains. I now can pretty well locate where the house stood, front yard,etc.The glass even gives me a idea of the homes age, the finds also have been rewarding. The best time to look,spring planting time, fall after crops have been harvested,and on sunny days during these periods the glass is easy to spot.Please be considerate to the farmers and hunt before crops are planted and after plants are harvested.Remember your most likey to be the first to hunt the site and more then likely the last.
Be sure to recheck the sites once a year,because the farmers retill the land bringing up new goodies. I'm sure this tip will open a new door to many of you as it has for me.Happy Hunting.
Tip#13
When you are hunting an old home, try to find a tree with growth scars from having a clothes line attached. then figure where the clothes line ran. Go slow on all metal mode under the old clothes line area. many coins/jewelry are left in the pockets, and make it through the wash to the clothes line where the wind shakes them out on the ground. also, if there is an old wringer type washer on an old poorch check around the washer. they often did their laundry on the poorch and let the wash water run out on the ground beside the poorch, along with whatever was in the washer
Tip#14
Here is why a supposed "hunted out" site probably still holds goodies others have no patience to find - I can prove it mathematically. We all know (or should) that the search pattern under the coil is that of an inverted cone. If we assume that the maximum depth your detector can find a coin reliably is 6", than the point of the cone is at the 6" mark. Your detector will therefore detect any coin that falls in the cone pattern below the coil down to the "point" of 6". For simplicity sake, pretend that your coil is an over-sized spray paint can. Now, if you swing your coil by overlaping the previous swing by only 1" (which is hard to do if you are moving fast across the ground), at 2", 4" and 6", your coil would spray paint a swath of a given width as it passes over these depths with its cone-shaped spray pattern. If we could actually see the spray pattern left by the "giant" spray can, here's what you would see with the 1" overlap swing:
At 2" depth - 25% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
At 4" depth - 59% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
At 6" depth - a wapping 86% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
Now, factor in all the other things that may make you miss a target (i.e. bad target id on a good target) and you have an almost impossible probability that all targets between 4" to 6" have been successfully cleaned out. The only way to get every possible target is to grid a small area and clean every "all-metal" signal out of that area and than move on. How may people ever do that?!?!
Tip#16
Hi once again! I just wanted to pass on a set of test cards that I made up for metal detecting . I cut out of white cardboard 2 inch squares. On them I taped a pull tab, iron nail, foil, zinc penny (after 1982), copper penny (before 1982), nickle, dime, quarter and a half dollar. I wrote on them the sounds they make when passing my detector over them,ex. low tone,med and high tone. I carry them in a zip lock bag. When I am out hunting and I want to disc. something out I just reach into the bag and run it over the coil and adjust the disc till it is out. This way I know if what I hear is good things and not junk. They are also great tools for learning as you can place them on the lawn and practice finding them by sounds and also finding the X , correct area to dig. Just have someone lay them out face down when you have your eyes closed. Now try to identify them by the sounds or the read out on your detector. Have a good time metal detecting and be sure to fill in your holes.
Tip#17
Poker Chips make excellent markers for treasure hunting. You can place one on each found location and after a number of finds stop detecting and start digging. You can even use different colors for different types of finds - ie, red for "hot" finds, white for "questionable" finds, and blue for "sounds deep" - make up your own color code. I've done this for many years and it also gives your arm a chance to rest from swinging the detector.
Tip#18
This may prove valuable to Coin, Cache, and Relic Hunters.....
Make a list of your family members ( Uncles, Aunts, Grand Parents, Etc. ), that are say 60 yrs. old and up. Then add people you know with relatives that fall into this age bracket. The reason for this is simple.....
When they were kids, teen agers, and young adults...cities, towns, and surrounding areas were much different from what they are today. Houses, school yards, churches, encampments, cemeteries, parks, sports areas, swimming holes, as well as old roads, paths, drive ways, logging camp locations, battle sites, etc. In many cases were 50 to 100 years then. Do the math, these places are now 100 to 150 years old, possibly even much older.
There are many other ways to contact people in this age group. Family Reunions, Senior Citizens Groups, Bingo Halls, Stores and Gas Stations on the edge or outside city and town limits, etc. Maybe you know someone in a rest home. These people will talk with you for hours and be grateful for the company. Use your imagination and soon your information sources will become endless.
More often than not these places will exist someone's memory, not as a written record. Always have a map handy when talking with someone about locations from "days gone by." That way you can mark the general locations and then cross check this data with other people in that same area. If you don't have a map, then paper and pencil to draw one will do.
Farming areas..... It never hurts to stop at a farm house and ask directions ( even though you aren't lost ). You may even find yourself holding a cup of coffee, glass of ice water or tea and maybe a sandwich for your trouble. While you are there mention what your interest are, the response may surprise you. I have had offers to ride down the road and show me a spot just like what I was hopping to find when I started out that day. In some cases they even ask if I would like to hunt around their place. Maybe even look for a lost item.
Look close while you are there! I have seen cannon balls, insulators, and other items being used as door stops, or maybe just laying around the porch, at the end of a flower bed or hedge row, on the dirt floor or around the outside of an old abandoned shed, or barn. Sometimes, for a few dollars I would have a prize. Oh yes; don't forget to look up, not just down !
I have even offered to clean out and haul away all that old "JUNK" in order to clear the way for my metal detector. Regardless of what is left behind for the ShadowX2 to sniff out, I will already have some valuable "JUNK" in the back of my truck. Learn to SEE, not just LOOK !
Become a name dropper.....I have used this ice breaker many times over the years. Use the name of someone you've met in the same area. Also, it never hurts to take a minute and lend a helping hand to some in need of it. That person as a rule will be extremely grateful and tell you anything you want to know, or refer you to someone else that can put you on the right track. I have learned of enough new ( untouched ) locations to kept me busy a month or two just for helping to carry a little fire wood and stacking it on the back porch.
By the way.....pull tabs, gum wrappers, and other undesirable items, as a rule aren't a problem with these types of locations, which number into the millions in this country alone. That old saying....."One Person's Trash Is Another Person's Treasure" is more true today than ever before, and people will pay well for it too !
In closing just remember.....There are more valuable items yet to be found, than the sum total of everything found to date. The more creative you become the better your chances of finding your fair share.
Let us all practice good Metal Detecting & Treasure Hunting etiquette so that not only us, but those who come after us may enjoy the thrill of the find for many years to come.
Tip#19
If you are wanting to hunt a piece of property, and the owner is hesitant, offer a spare detector for them to try out while you hunt. Take an extra if you have it, and you will have a response for them when they tell you you can't hunt it because they always wanted to buy one and do it themselves. This might help with those people that think there is a gold mine in their yard, and you may even turn someone on to the hobby.
Tip #20
Need a cheap & quick display board for some of your finds? Use a piece of Styrofoam about an inch thick...other dimensions to your needs....wrap it in a piece of felt (purple looks "royal") and keep it in place with straight pins or hot glue. Mount tokens or other finds with more pins at the edges to hold it in place. The pin heads are almost invisible, and arrangement of items is a snap. Fashion an easel or simply prop it up against something. Very impressive and rich looking display for your treasures. While photographing you finds.
Dave
SAVE YOUR KNEES AND PANTS
I have a great trick I just learned and would like to pass it on to everyone here as a tip, using rubber backed car floor mats to kneel on while digging. That's right, take them right from the car's floorboard to the ground, not only do they form a padded barrier between your knees and all those hard rocks and stones, they also keep your pants dry from the morning dew and transport easy enough by simply rolling them up until needed.
Tip#2
HUNT OLD HOUSES
I see old houses all the time that have been rezoned to commercial and are being used for businesses. I have yet to be turned down at one of these when asking permission to hunt. I feel that these places are not as personal to people as their private residence. Another plus is that most of us hunt in the evening or on weekends when these places are closed and we do not interfere with their operation.
Tip#3
FAIRGROUND HUNTING
Hello everyone, I have a few tips to share for those that like to coin shoot fair grounds, hope they are of some value, they work very well for me.
1. If the fair is in progress and you go, take along a spiral index card notebook and denote the locations of all the booths, especially the food vendors, they will have the highest traffic and yield the greatest coin flow. I make a rough map of the vendors represented by squares on a grid, then I mark food vendors with an "F", jewelry vendors with an "J" and so on.
2. If the fair or event is over, you can still locate the vendor's booths by simply looking for the new grass, tents and people are hard on grass and leave large muddy patches once finished, the land owners will reseed the lawns and this is a sure tell sign of a high traffic area. The bright, fresh grass stands out like a beacon in the night pointing the way to untold riches.
Tip#4
SAFETY TIP
I would like to add my tip if I may, use your metal detector set on all metal (with no discrimination) and scan trees before they are to be cut down or reduces to logs, there is nothing like a high speed chain saw blade hitting a nail or barbed wire to ruin someone's day. Your metal detector can save their life or permanent disfigurement by avoiding unseen hazardous areas.
Tip#5
USING OLD MAPS
Metal Detectorist's tend to overlook the importance of old maps in their coin searches. Completely forgotten about is the existence of early county maps that contain a wealth of information. Known as Land Ownership maps they represented a very detailed picture of the population of a given area. A large volume of these rare and sometimes valuable maps were produced in the mid 19th century for publicity purposes, property assessment and to attract new migrants A dedicated Treasure Hunter should research this wonderful item, for they continue to be a great asset in researching for coins, forgotten towns, and other sources of potential discovery.
The original cartographers and engravers produced these giant wall maps, that could average a 6 foot tall image and that clearly defined different survey zones. These maps focused on tax land assessment, supervisory boards, land deeds, political and voter districts. They would show the locality of a property, name of the resident, possible occupation, acreage owned and other notable ancestry interests. Outside of the libraries and government institutions that have a limited staff to assist you with your project. One should look for on-line map libraries for all your needs. These entities are quick to respond to inquiries and can offer a large library of premium priced images of outstanding quality. Browsing the Internet the ever growing entourage of Metal detector enthusiasts, Treasure Seekers who should be aware of two map libraries that have a reputation for quality reproductions.
Either business has the professional staff and time to help you with your research. HISTORIC MAPS RESTORED is both a commercial enterprise and a non-profit organization that has for sale, sharp digitally remastered prints. They carry a enormous bank of maps of old mining areas, ghost towns, military outposts and forts, vanished settlements, towns, railroad routes, overgrown wagon routes, stagecoach halts and the list goes on. They have holdings of early edition topographic maps show in great detail the forgotten settlements, that once romanced old saloons, bordello's and a wealth of other buildings. Activities of the past generally leave there mark forever and with use of this maps, you will have at your disposal a tremendous tool for in depth research. Be aware that the old surveyors didn't miss a thing. Even the most modest shack, cabin or human involvement was marked on the old maps. So, do not be confused by a square dot in the middle of nowhere, its not a printing error, it is likely an old miner's cabin? In addition is another website of great maps. MAPS OF THE PAST Both map libraries have a wide selection of land ownership maps, ideal for a detector searches.
Tip#6
Lots of large ice chest and coolers have a moveable plastic storage tray that comes with them. These are usually rectangular in shape and are used to keep your dry goods off the ice inside the cooler. You can also use a plastic Tupperware tray or a similar tray (as long as it is plastic and deep).
Tip #7
I use these trays to speed up my digs. Simply put the dirt you dig out the tray. After every couple of scoops, run your coil over the dirt in the tray. Since the tray is plastic, it will not cause any false reading.
If your detector beeps they you know you have scooped out the object (now just sift around in the tray until you find it). If your detector does not beep, you will know its still in the ground (just keep scooping).
Every four scoops, dump the tray out near the hole you are digging. This way the amount of dirt in the container is minimal, and you do not have to search through as much once your detector says the object is in the tray.
I have found that this “process of elimination” speeds up my digs. It also makes re-filling your holes quick; you just invert the tray and use it to drag the pile of dirt you made back into the hole.
Tip#8
When searching for cellar holes in the woods
When traveling the back roads or the forgotten roads in your state and maybe in other states as well, look for "orange day lilies" or the leaves. They are in front of the house by the road in more than 60% of the cellar holes in the woods. Also watch for 4 or 5 Maple Trees equally spaced along the road, a sure indication. Other sure signs are old lilac bushes and the ground cover "myrtle".
One of the first places to detect these sites is right by the road and around the well hole!
If you have a farm field where you think there was a house, look for shards of brick and white and blue pottery! If you see that? You are in for some fun my friend.
Tip #9
Film canisters
Here is a idea for carrying extra 9 volt batteries and not having the terminals short out. I heard of putting a 9 volt connector on it with the wires cut off. Then I though, "what if a coin slips between the connector and battery". So that got me thinking. What could I use that truly protects the terminals? I came up with a Kodak 35 mm film canister. I don't know if other brands will work. Plus if you wear a hat that has the elastic loops around the outside that's the perfect place to carry it. After all that is what those loops are for, film canisters
Tip #10
Finding Old Farmhouses.
I've found old farmhouses by looking for rockpiles in farmfields. What better place to throw all the rocks in your field then in an old cellar hole. Also check out terraserver or terrafly for tell tale signs of stonewalls and cellar holes in your area. Look for patches of brush or trees in large open fields, sometimes several buildings are clustered together. Lineing up straight lines with old maps can sometimes put you on ancient roadways. Walking the roadways look carefully to both sides throughout wooded areas for sunk in depressions that are not noticable from the air. GPS's are always a good idea and can be used to mark down sites for future hunts. Old bottles can often tip you off to a nearby dwelling as well as give you an estimate about the age of a site. Don't always go by the first bottles you find, take time and do a thoural search. Many times newer houses were built on top of older foundations.
Tip#11
Research is only as fun as you make it!
In reviewing old plat maps at our local library you have access to dimensions, survey way points and in some cases latitude and longitude references. I purchased a topo cd from maptech which allows search by feature, eg rail line, well, historic points of interest, etc. Which leads me to putting all this information together to get on target.
Although the plat maps had measurements many were a compilation of structures that no longer exist. Take a plat with 4 structures shown from 100 years ago and in more cases than not you will be on another planet when searching. Which leads me to add another tool. GPS! this provides reference points of known maps when all physical structures are gone.
Tip#12
I'm always looking for tips from all you fellow metal detecting addicts out there and learning all the time. I have a tip that will help those looking for those all farm homes torn down years ago. I've read tips from getting old maps,talking to seniors,even renting a plane to spot these old home locations. I found a easy way to find old farm homes sites and I wish to share this with all you that have shared your ideas with me.
I live out in the country, with farmland all around.I would always end up driveing to town to metal detect and people in town would tell me I would have better luck hunting the old farm homes, many of which were torn down and now farm fields, but how do I find them? Maps, hear say, airplane, etc. Frustrated, I drove down back roads looking for old farm homes that were still standing, which were far and few, Until one day driving, I noticed something shining in a farm field being prepared for spring planting, curious,I pulled over, got out and checked out what was being reflected,to my surprise it was a piece of glass, infact there was lots of pieces of glass being reflected by the sun.
Thats when it hit me, these were part of the remains of a house which stood there once. Since then I have found many sites thanks to the glass remains. I now can pretty well locate where the house stood, front yard,etc.The glass even gives me a idea of the homes age, the finds also have been rewarding. The best time to look,spring planting time, fall after crops have been harvested,and on sunny days during these periods the glass is easy to spot.Please be considerate to the farmers and hunt before crops are planted and after plants are harvested.Remember your most likey to be the first to hunt the site and more then likely the last.
Be sure to recheck the sites once a year,because the farmers retill the land bringing up new goodies. I'm sure this tip will open a new door to many of you as it has for me.Happy Hunting.
Tip#13
When you are hunting an old home, try to find a tree with growth scars from having a clothes line attached. then figure where the clothes line ran. Go slow on all metal mode under the old clothes line area. many coins/jewelry are left in the pockets, and make it through the wash to the clothes line where the wind shakes them out on the ground. also, if there is an old wringer type washer on an old poorch check around the washer. they often did their laundry on the poorch and let the wash water run out on the ground beside the poorch, along with whatever was in the washer
Tip#14
Here is why a supposed "hunted out" site probably still holds goodies others have no patience to find - I can prove it mathematically. We all know (or should) that the search pattern under the coil is that of an inverted cone. If we assume that the maximum depth your detector can find a coin reliably is 6", than the point of the cone is at the 6" mark. Your detector will therefore detect any coin that falls in the cone pattern below the coil down to the "point" of 6". For simplicity sake, pretend that your coil is an over-sized spray paint can. Now, if you swing your coil by overlaping the previous swing by only 1" (which is hard to do if you are moving fast across the ground), at 2", 4" and 6", your coil would spray paint a swath of a given width as it passes over these depths with its cone-shaped spray pattern. If we could actually see the spray pattern left by the "giant" spray can, here's what you would see with the 1" overlap swing:
At 2" depth - 25% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
At 4" depth - 59% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
At 6" depth - a wapping 86% of the area would be missed by the "spray"
Now, factor in all the other things that may make you miss a target (i.e. bad target id on a good target) and you have an almost impossible probability that all targets between 4" to 6" have been successfully cleaned out. The only way to get every possible target is to grid a small area and clean every "all-metal" signal out of that area and than move on. How may people ever do that?!?!
Tip#16
Hi once again! I just wanted to pass on a set of test cards that I made up for metal detecting . I cut out of white cardboard 2 inch squares. On them I taped a pull tab, iron nail, foil, zinc penny (after 1982), copper penny (before 1982), nickle, dime, quarter and a half dollar. I wrote on them the sounds they make when passing my detector over them,ex. low tone,med and high tone. I carry them in a zip lock bag. When I am out hunting and I want to disc. something out I just reach into the bag and run it over the coil and adjust the disc till it is out. This way I know if what I hear is good things and not junk. They are also great tools for learning as you can place them on the lawn and practice finding them by sounds and also finding the X , correct area to dig. Just have someone lay them out face down when you have your eyes closed. Now try to identify them by the sounds or the read out on your detector. Have a good time metal detecting and be sure to fill in your holes.
Tip#17
Poker Chips make excellent markers for treasure hunting. You can place one on each found location and after a number of finds stop detecting and start digging. You can even use different colors for different types of finds - ie, red for "hot" finds, white for "questionable" finds, and blue for "sounds deep" - make up your own color code. I've done this for many years and it also gives your arm a chance to rest from swinging the detector.
Tip#18
This may prove valuable to Coin, Cache, and Relic Hunters.....
Make a list of your family members ( Uncles, Aunts, Grand Parents, Etc. ), that are say 60 yrs. old and up. Then add people you know with relatives that fall into this age bracket. The reason for this is simple.....
When they were kids, teen agers, and young adults...cities, towns, and surrounding areas were much different from what they are today. Houses, school yards, churches, encampments, cemeteries, parks, sports areas, swimming holes, as well as old roads, paths, drive ways, logging camp locations, battle sites, etc. In many cases were 50 to 100 years then. Do the math, these places are now 100 to 150 years old, possibly even much older.
There are many other ways to contact people in this age group. Family Reunions, Senior Citizens Groups, Bingo Halls, Stores and Gas Stations on the edge or outside city and town limits, etc. Maybe you know someone in a rest home. These people will talk with you for hours and be grateful for the company. Use your imagination and soon your information sources will become endless.
More often than not these places will exist someone's memory, not as a written record. Always have a map handy when talking with someone about locations from "days gone by." That way you can mark the general locations and then cross check this data with other people in that same area. If you don't have a map, then paper and pencil to draw one will do.
Farming areas..... It never hurts to stop at a farm house and ask directions ( even though you aren't lost ). You may even find yourself holding a cup of coffee, glass of ice water or tea and maybe a sandwich for your trouble. While you are there mention what your interest are, the response may surprise you. I have had offers to ride down the road and show me a spot just like what I was hopping to find when I started out that day. In some cases they even ask if I would like to hunt around their place. Maybe even look for a lost item.
Look close while you are there! I have seen cannon balls, insulators, and other items being used as door stops, or maybe just laying around the porch, at the end of a flower bed or hedge row, on the dirt floor or around the outside of an old abandoned shed, or barn. Sometimes, for a few dollars I would have a prize. Oh yes; don't forget to look up, not just down !
I have even offered to clean out and haul away all that old "JUNK" in order to clear the way for my metal detector. Regardless of what is left behind for the ShadowX2 to sniff out, I will already have some valuable "JUNK" in the back of my truck. Learn to SEE, not just LOOK !
Become a name dropper.....I have used this ice breaker many times over the years. Use the name of someone you've met in the same area. Also, it never hurts to take a minute and lend a helping hand to some in need of it. That person as a rule will be extremely grateful and tell you anything you want to know, or refer you to someone else that can put you on the right track. I have learned of enough new ( untouched ) locations to kept me busy a month or two just for helping to carry a little fire wood and stacking it on the back porch.
By the way.....pull tabs, gum wrappers, and other undesirable items, as a rule aren't a problem with these types of locations, which number into the millions in this country alone. That old saying....."One Person's Trash Is Another Person's Treasure" is more true today than ever before, and people will pay well for it too !
In closing just remember.....There are more valuable items yet to be found, than the sum total of everything found to date. The more creative you become the better your chances of finding your fair share.
Let us all practice good Metal Detecting & Treasure Hunting etiquette so that not only us, but those who come after us may enjoy the thrill of the find for many years to come.
Tip#19
If you are wanting to hunt a piece of property, and the owner is hesitant, offer a spare detector for them to try out while you hunt. Take an extra if you have it, and you will have a response for them when they tell you you can't hunt it because they always wanted to buy one and do it themselves. This might help with those people that think there is a gold mine in their yard, and you may even turn someone on to the hobby.
Tip #20
Need a cheap & quick display board for some of your finds? Use a piece of Styrofoam about an inch thick...other dimensions to your needs....wrap it in a piece of felt (purple looks "royal") and keep it in place with straight pins or hot glue. Mount tokens or other finds with more pins at the edges to hold it in place. The pin heads are almost invisible, and arrangement of items is a snap. Fashion an easel or simply prop it up against something. Very impressive and rich looking display for your treasures. While photographing you finds.
Dave
