Hello and I could use some help with an old VLF Surfmaster II

Rover

Tenderfoot
Sep 6, 2013
6
2
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Let me start by saying Hello, Hello :hello: I have been lurking for a while and reading your posts and figured when I have a question or two you are the guys to ask.

I have the old Whites Surfmaster II VLF. I got it for peanuts because it either took on water or was stored with batteries in the box for what looks like ever. The potentiometers are bad and so corroded that I cannot see the values. This is a two knob model with sensitivity and discrimination. I believe the sensitivity pot is 10k ohm and the discrimination 100k but this is only because that is what is used on the PI machines but since this is VLF I would like to make sure with some of you first before I get some.

So first question what are the values of the potentiometers on the Surfmaster II?

Now the Board has what looks like modifications done to it, Mr Bills? and like I stated is corroded. I was going to solder the power leads back on and see what happens but I am leaning toward a new board something with ground balance would be nice. I would drill and tap a new hole for the pot. But before I do that I also read that the circuitry is the same as the classic white’s machine.

So my next question is what model has the same board in it? I would like to find the schematic and repair it or perhaps a better version of control board. If that doesn’t happen it will turn it into a surfmaster with a bounty hunter control board. I considered turning it into a PI with a kit but I would like a fresh water VLF.

Any information would be greatly appreciated. I plan on getting the same/using the same style pots and the same style waterproofing. I called Whites they had me call there repair guy. I left a message and never heard back. Some of you know him and say he is great guy so I am sure he is just busy.

Thank you in advance.
 

Alan Applegate

Sr. Member
Aug 20, 2013
257
131
Roswell, NM
Detector(s) used
Ace 250, GTI-2500
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I not sure this is posted in the correct forum, but.....

Even if the pots are corroded, it may be possible to measure their resistance with VOM or DVM. You could replace them but unless they're really bad, you probably can clean them up with the right cleaner. Some one will tell you to use WD-40, but I wouldn't, as there are better solvents for the purpose.

I'm not sure it is even worth salvaging, and since I can't see it, I can't offer any real help in this regard.
 

OP
OP
R

Rover

Tenderfoot
Sep 6, 2013
6
2
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
ebay aug 18 002.jpg ebay aug 18 004.jpg ebay aug 18 005.jpg ebay aug 18 008.jpg ebay aug 18 009.jpg ebay aug 18 011.jpg ebay aug 18 014.jpg ebay aug 18 015.jpg

The board looks bad but I am going to play with it. It’s not like I can hurt it.

The sence pot is ok. The disc pot no longer has it's switch functioning. I dissembled the pot and cleaned it, but still no on off click.

In the second to the last picture with the pots you can see a piece of wire it was soldered in at the coil lines, In line with the black wire. It fell off but was just like the last picture it went nowhere. I need to figure out where it goes.

I think on this old machine both pots are 10k Ohm.

It looks rough that’s why I was thinking a new control board would be in order.
 

Last edited:

jd5105

Jr. Member
May 20, 2009
24
5
West Monroe, La.
Detector(s) used
Fisher 1260x, BountyHunter DE280 Outlaw, Fisher F2
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
Get some good electrical contact cleaner from an electronics supply store and clean the PCB real good. It looks like some of the circuit board traces may be damaged at the eylets from the corrosion. I use magnifying goggles whenever I work on electronic equipment.
 

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