cheap or expensive md to start
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  1. #1

    Jun 2007
    Treasure baron with Goldtrax
    870
    3 times

    cheap or expensive md to start

    what would you recommend for a complete novice a cheap md or an expensive one or perhaps a middle range one. What did you start with and would you ever admit it now you got the best model money could buy
    Silver is Nice
    But Gold Is Better

    copyright strike it rich 2007

  2. #2
    us
    Jun 2007
    Shenandoah Valley
    Minelab EXP II w/ Sunray X-1 probe, Garrett AT Pro/Propointer
    1,090
    606 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    There are a lot of factors to take into consideration when purchasing your detector, but in my opinion, buy the best you can afford. You will want to upgrade later so why spend the money twice unless you can't afford the best right of the bat. Yes, there are steeper learning curves with the more expensive ones, but this didn't bug me. I knew I could figure it out and get the hang of it eventually. Other users of the machine, in my case an Explorer II, helped out a lot as well. I have seen several good program recommendations for the EXP that I have tried out. If money is an issue, the Garrett ACE 250 comes highly recommended for it's price of about $300. Do your research and you may find that you can get a very good used detector (a higher end machine that is) on e-bay. I got my first detector, a Fisher CZ 7a pro off ebay for a song, but then I had the funds to get something better after a few months and got the Minelab EXP II new. It's a little heavy for some folks, but the weight doesn't bother me. You could always get a harness if the weight bugs you too much. It was recently replaced by the Explorer SE which in my opinion is only marginally different. Many folks prefer the Whites DFX as their high end machine. Either can be had for $900-1000.
    Hope this helps.
    Oldest U.S. Coin: 1787 Connecticut Copper, (five of them)
    Oldest non U.S. Coin: 1777 Spanish half reale
    Best civil war finds: Line A confederate button, NC button, Virginia button,3 Connecticut buttons,New York officer cuff button, 3 Union officer sword belt plates, US box plate, Union breast plate, blood letter or “fleam”

  3. #3
    us
    Dec 2006
    MINELAB SE-Excalibur 1000-Minelab SD2200V2
    251
    3 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Depends on what area you live, And the type of detecting you plan on.

    I go to Florida an detect on the beach, so i bought a 1000 dollar detector Minelab Excalibur 1000, It is the best of the best, If your just getting started and plan on detecting on land alot of people buy the Garrett ace 250.

    You have to decide how much money you want to spend, Then start researching the different types of detectors, The minelab SE is a great detector, but it will cost just over 1000 dollars.

    There is alot of people that will suggest detectors to you, But you have to decide the price you wanting to spend, In life you get what you pay for.




    Think about where you want to detect and then people can suggest detectors. Also all dealers sale there detectors for the same price brand new.

    AND I THINK I GAVE THIS PERSON GREAT ADVICE ALSO TONYINCT

  4. #4

    Mar 2006
    Granby, CT
    455
    2 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Welcome.
    Bearbqd is right. Buy the best you can afford. This doesn;t always equate to price however. It is true that the more you spend the moe you get in features and also features that are more refined , but the fact of whether or not the detector will operate well in the conditions where you live is more important. Some beleive that target ID is a "better" feature than no target ID. However , some believe the opposite. In any case , there are quite afew excellent detectors on the market and I am sure there is one for you too. I would be glad to answer any questions you may have. Give me a call.
    TonyinCT
    860-623-1153
    www.tcmetaldetectors.com
    TonyinCT
    http://www.tcmetaldetectors.com

  5. #5
    Charter Member
    us
    Mar 2007
    Upstate NY
    Minelab E-trac, White's XLT, Classic III, Surf PI, Minelab Explorer XS
    120
    5 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    A cheap detector is more expensive than one that produces.

  6. #6
    us
    Semper Fi!

    Jan 2007
    Indiana
    Minelab Explorer XS-2, Garrett Ace 250
    2,197
    15 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    What shoudl you do?? First off decide what you really want from this hobby. A couple times a month looking in a tot lot, going to the beach to dig in the sand, Look for old silver, relics?? If you only going to spend a short time doing it, once or twice a month then get a good cheaper detector. The Ace 250 would be good, less expensive but can produce for you. If you know that you will be hooked already, then get a top of the line detector. Everybody will tell you what THEY think is better, but its your money. Send for brochures, read reviews, check the posts here and see whats found and see where it fits in for your desires. If you know anyone close has a certain type detector your interested in, ask to go, most people in this hobby are honest, helpful and willing to help. Only you will know what will fit what you want, but this place is a great research tool for you to make the decision that is right for you!
    "Two things are infinite, the Universe and Human stupidity, and I'm not so sure about the Universe"
    ~Albert Einstein~

  7. #7
    us
    Sarcastic Smartass

    May 2003
    Spokane, Washington
    White's XLT
    531
    8 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Quote Originally Posted by strike it rich
    what would you recommend for a complete novice a cheap md or an expensive one or perhaps a middle range one. What did you start with and would you ever admit it now you got the best model money could buy
    I sold out another hobby to get my MD. I got a White's XLT without ever having used a detector before.

    As someone pointed out to me in another thread where I was considering a 1000$ beach detector, high dollar units hold their value well. I paid 600$ used for my XLT, and I could probably get 600$ for it to sell it today.

    I recommend at least 5-600$ or don't bother. If you're unsure if you'll enjoy it go rent a few different levels/models first and see if you'll enjoy it enough. Also go check with a local club, i'm sure they'll be happy to let you try their different models out.

    Imagine it like getting into drag racing, if you don't try and go big to start out you'll probably get bored with it fast, but it will be the fault of not having good enough gear to keep you interested.

    Happy hunting.
    Pics hosted with Dreamhost - http://www.dreamhost.com/r.cgi?293800

  8. #8
    us
    Sep 2006
    Washington and Oregon
    Garret Ace250/Prospecter Bounty hunter(Backup)
    1,400
    16 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    The Ace250 has $500 technology packed into a $200 machine. I have never failed to keep up with another detectorist or their machine with my Ace unless hunting saltwater. Its simplicity is amazing and though I DO plan on getting a more expensive detector for using in the water, I will never regret the purchase of the Ace250...I paid right at 200 bucks for it in December ,for my own christmas present, and my finds are valued at many many times that!
    I see nothing wrong with starting with such a machine and working your way up. Then you could always use the Ace as a backup.


    ~Nash~
    PS.. I started with a bounty hunter prospector and got hooked using it. My past posts will prove just how much I found with that cheap little junker and they have dramatically improved since I purchased the Ace.
    Whatever it is, it is valuable. If nothing else for the lesson learned or simply the experience of having been there.

  9. #9

    Jan 2007
    Punta Gorda FL
    EX2',CZ7a pro,Excaliburs 1000 & 2, F-75's ,Garrett Sea Hunter & Infinium LS PI , 1235X
    908
    1 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Quote Originally Posted by intrepid777
    A cheap detector is more expensive than one that produces.
    Yup-agree 100% Buy what you can afford and you don't need the top of the line but it darn sure helps

  10. #10
    us
    Head Above Water

    Nov 2004
    Lee's Tavern Road
    21 years behind a coil Fisher F70 Bounty Hunter Lone Star Tesoro Tiger Shark
    809
    54 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Lets keep this simple. Get the most you can afford.

    I say get a used high end machine: Whites, Minelab, Tesoro, Fisher. My personal favorite? Tesoro Golden or Garrett GTP 1350.
    Then if you dont like the hobby after digging your umpteenth wad of trash, you can resell without much loss.

    Here's a response I posted to this question a while back:

    "Good first detector? Ace 250 - possibly the best as new. One of the Whites Prizm series is a good choice, too, and they are smoother to operate than the Ace, IMHO. Tesoros are very nice with a superb warranty, although they have no ID models until the Golden is reached, but they can't be beat and just might be the best bang for the buck. Buy them used and the LIFETIME REPAIR warranty transfers with the unit.... UPDATE: According to Tesoro the lifetime warranty covers the unit and the original purchaser - so technically, I'm wrong. However, Tesoro has the discretion to repair as they see fit - and so far in my experience, they do just that. I have had many used Tesoros, and so far I have sent three in for service. One was a cable connector, two were cracked coils. ALL were repaired free of charge.
    May people do well with Bounty Hunters and their various offspring, but I can't endorse them - they are too shoddy for my tastes.

    Believe it or not, which detector to buy is only one of your issues. It is the most talked about, yet in my opinion, it is the least of your worries. Most any detector from a major maker in the $200-$300 price range will give you years of dependable, enjoyable service. I know that tends to kill the fun of endlessly wrangling over which is best, but it's fact.

    Okay, now the TRUTH is told; now let me back it up. Just WHAT are these other things you need to concern yourself with, if not your detector choice? Glad you asked! Here they are in list form... this is the stuff you learn the hard way - or wish someone would have told you in the beginning. Now you dont have to wait for either.

    Good Hunting, my friend.

    "Dahut's Secret Tips to Success...for Newcomers"

    1. Equipment is NOT the answer.

    The other, more crucial element is MINDSET. We tend to be techno-dependent, expecting gadgets to do all things for us. Guess what? People were finding treasures before detectors came along. The difference is they knew what to look for and had some idea where to find it. You should do the same. Do buy a quality detector, of course, then consider it merely the means to an end. As I like to say, "Know Before You Go."

    2. Dig, man dig!

    You wont find anything if you don't and you won't learn what your machine is telling you, either. Your goal is to become an "object recovery specialist," not an expert at merely locating objects.

    3. DO NOT rely on a meter or display.

    There is a mountain of hype that claims this detector or that detector can tell "trash from treasure." DO NOT believe it. There is A LOT of junk out there and most of it masquerades as good stuff, especially to the newcomer. You will find trash and plenty of it, so start developing a cavalier attitude to it early on. When in doubt, see, TIP #2 .

    4. Turn the Sensitivity down to start.

    Dont expect to find stuff halfway to China, as most good things are within the first FOOT, usually less.
    That's the good news.
    Here's the bad news: SENSITIVITY (gain) increases cannot "suck in" what isn't there to start with. Rather, gain that is set too high only results in false signals and lots of frustration.

    5. Set time limits.

    a. Plan to detect for a certain amount of time, as often as possible. Like any activity, good practice makes you better.
    b. DO NOT detect longer that you should - set a limit on that, too. Remember you have a job and a family and friends.

    6. Set Recovery Goals.

    Make it a certain coin, or artifact, a maybe a specific quota of coins, etc. Then work to achieve these goals. My goal for the summer season is to find a nice mans ring - yours can be whatever you want it to be.
    Some say that this is "just a hobby, and goals are for work." DO NOT believe that crap, either. It's a load of bunk. Achievement and success at ANYTHING is utterly dependent on your ability to push yourself beyond the mundane, to go beyond the easy frontiers.

    7. Carry your detector with you as much as possible.

    You never know when a chance to detect will come along. But dont leave it in your car, long-term - EVER!! We're talking about sensitive, costly electronic instruments here.The heat and jostling is murder on them... and break-in thieves know what they are worth, too.

    8. Learn about your area and what you might actually find.

    Do a little research about every possible place you might consider detecting, from the local park to vacant lots. Like I hinted at in Tip #$, it does no good to take your detector to a barren parking lot. I tried it once...I'm right on this, trust me. You have to go where something worth finding exists.
    The park in my city was once an old home place, then a housing area through the 50's and now a modern park. The old goodies and other stuff are NOT where the hard hunted modern play grounds are - and few know it but me. Get the point?

    9. Talk to your friends and family about your new hobby.

    Include the strangers you meet too, like folks in the checkout line or bank tellers. Ask if they know any old places, or good modern places, where lots of people have been active. Make up some simple personal introduction cards on your computer, naming you as "Joe Schmoe, Detectorist." People respect credentials and being an ambassador of the hobby will open doors for you.
    a. DO NOT be a "treasure hunter." Want to really get people stirred up, for all the wrong reasons? Mention the word "treasure" to them in earnest and see what happens.

    10. Plan to do all sorts of detecting.

    You are new, and this hobby has lots to offer. Dont imagine yourself only "this sort" of detectorist or "that sort." Try it all.

    11. Learn the Detectorists Code of Ethics.

    And practice good recovery techniques, ALL THE TIME. Few things will sour you on this hobby like being ticketed for leaving holes behind you or getting busted on private property. I learned this last one the hard way, at the wrong end of a shotgun - don't repeat my mistake

    12. Get a durable carry bag at the thrift store and keep these things in it (my bag cost $3):

    + Extra headphones - A broken set of phones will ruin any hunt. Simple folding digi-phones make a nice back-up.
    + Extra batteries for your unit(s)- Likewise, a set of dead batteries is a real fun buster.
    + 2 Digging Trowels - NOT the crap from WalMart or Target's garden section. Get purpose built tools.
    + An inexpensive sand scoop. There are a surprising number of easy-digging sandy spots to hunt. You'll thank me one day for suggesting this one.
    + 2 recovery aprons - Most home centers sell nail aprons for a $1. They'll do nicely.
    + 1 10" probe - I make mine from a 3/16" piece of brazing rod and a section of old broom handle. Use this to probe for coins beneath turf areas.
    + 1 10" long screwdriver - For "popping" the coins you probe from the turf. I heated mine and hammered it into a 'spoon' shape.
    + 1 8-10" inch rugged knife - Just plain useful. Cuts roots, plugs in grass, etc. Carry it on your belt when hunting, but try to avoid worrying the "straight" people with it.
    + Garden gloves - ones you can manage dextrous work in.
    + Super glue and duct tape - you don't need this explained, right?
    ...You can have more but you'll need these things, sooner or later.

    BONUS TIP #13: Determine to Have Fun!"
    copyright, DDH/Dahut, 2006
    You'll get it all. Or you won't.
    Someday, you'll die and leave it behind anyway.
    Act accordingly.

    "All of mans culture, all his achievements, are as nothing without good plumbing"

  11. #11

    Jun 2007
    Treasure baron with Goldtrax
    870
    3 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    all the replys i have are excellent thanks
    Silver is Nice
    But Gold Is Better

    copyright strike it rich 2007

  12. #12

    Mar 2006
    Granby, CT
    455
    2 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Excuse me but Dahut....where did you hear that the tesoro Lifetime warranty was transferable on a used detector ?
    TonyinCT
    http://www.tcmetaldetectors.com

  13. #13
    us
    Head Above Water

    Nov 2004
    Lee's Tavern Road
    21 years behind a coil Fisher F70 Bounty Hunter Lone Star Tesoro Tiger Shark
    809
    54 times
    All Types Of Treasure Hunting

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Let me put it this way: Here's a few clauses from their warranty:

    "This instrument is warranted to be free of defects in material and workmanship as long as it is owned by the original consumer purchaser. This warranty is not transferable and is valid only if the warranty registration card has been completed and mailed within 10 days of purchase.

    TESORO will, at its option, repair or replace any instrument covered by this warranty, without charge, except for transportation charges, at its factory in Prescott, Arizona."

    Okay, it says that the warranty itself is not transferable. You got me there and I apologize if I gave anyone the wrong idea. However please read the second part of the warranty closely.

    I have had to send a detector back to Tesoro on occasion and there was never an issue of cost. Tesoro repaired and/or replaced parts as needed - "at it's option" and shipped back to me with a "Thanks and Good Hunting." I am not alone in this, either. This is a solid part of Tesoros reputation and they stand behind this, believe me. The day they stop is the day I may look elsewhere - I am not alone in THAT either.

    As far as I know (and what seems to be borne out in fact), the lifetime warranty is extended to the detector itself, regardless of who owns it. Negligence, unauthorized modifications, etc. are another matter, of course, so be careful with your toys!
    You'll get it all. Or you won't.
    Someday, you'll die and leave it behind anyway.
    Act accordingly.

    "All of mans culture, all his achievements, are as nothing without good plumbing"

  14. #14

    Aug 2004
    920
    8 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Quote Originally Posted by dahut
    Let me put it this way: Here's a few clauses from their warranty:

    I have had to send a detector back to Tesoro on occasion and there was never an issue of cost. Tesoro repaired and/or replaced parts as needed - "at it's option" and shipped back to me with a "Thanks and Good Hunting." I am not alone in this, either. This is a solid part of Tesoros reputation and they stand behind this, believe me. The day they stop is the day I may look elsewhere - I am not alone in THAT either.

    As far as I know (and what seems to be borne out in fact), the lifetime warranty is extended to the detector itself, regardless of who owns it. Negligence, unauthorized modifications, etc. are another matter, of course, so be careful with your toys!
    I LOVE Tesoro. Great machines and they have excellent service. I have never had an issue. They even replaced an old hockey style 4 inch coil that I had electricians tape on the cable with a BRAND NEW slim line 4 inch coil. It IS at their discretion though. I send in my warranty cards on my new machines, of which I have bought 3. Buy new, they deserve it and will stand behind you for many years of swinging.

    My advice, stay away from cheap. It is hard to explain cheap without making some people get defensive, but a lot of us have bought or used those machines and are just trying to help people not make the same mistake we made. Cheap is low end "retail store" machines and those chinese made machines selling all over ebay. The retail store machines get better the higher up the model line you go, but you could get a lot more for the same money getting something else. For the price of those machines, you could by a Tesoro Compadre, a Tesoro Silver Sabre (a real sleeper unit, awesome), a Garrett Ace 150/250, or a entry level Fisher and be TONS more satisfied with what you have bought. I had my share of stinkers starting out thinking I was saving a buck, but I didn't do my homework.
    Happy Tesoro user - Mid Missouri

  15. #15

    Mar 2006
    Granby, CT
    455
    2 times

    Re: cheap or expensive md to start

    Tesoro is without a doubt a stand up company. Many repairs are made by most manufacturers to out of warranty detectors. this is the competitive nature of the industry right now. Just beware that the company reserves the right to have the warranty policy followed.
    Recently I saw a post that was deleted on another forum that had a customer upset because their 7 year old detector was not repaired free and they were also upset because they JUST sent in the card and thought it covered them. Blank cards mean mostly nothing. Buying a used detector with a blank card does not make it new again.It is up to the manufacturer whether or not they will repair a detector that is not covered by their policy.
    TonyinCT
    http://www.tcmetaldetectors.com

 

 
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