Need a Machanics Advice!

[huntsman53]

Theres not a difference where it matters. I had an 06 GMC Savannah van and after 2 years the entire front end was worn out, needed Pittman arm and idler arm both, complete junk. Gm mechanic told me the front ends aren't very heavy duty at all and it's a reoccurring problem with their trucks. And no grease zerts anywhere to service.
Gmc and chevys are different in name, same parts.
I've been happy with some fords that I've had. My work truck is a 2016 dodge ram 4500 and I've been through a few of them. Pretty much worn out at 60k but we pull trailers everyday and haul heavy loads.
Mostly it's all the plastic that fails first. The washer fluid fittings that are mounted under the hood snap off when you close it, electric windows come off the tracks every few months because of plastic clips inside the door, things like that.
My fuel cap and def cap rattles off at the slightest bumps almost daily! The turbos last til about 60k miles then need replaced.
For 60k I'd expect alot more from a big truck like that but they are mostly plastic too!
Best truck I ever had was a 1970 f250 ranger 3/4 ton with a 390 and i still have it. Theres nothing like those old trucks! Easy to work on and not as much plastic.

The only differences between GMC trucks and Chevy trucks are minor variations in equipment levels with different trim lines. All parts are the same and interchange. Some local GMC dealers tend to also sell and service large trucks like International, leading some people to the impression that GMC is a heavier duty truck than the same Chevy. The perceived difference between the two badges is part of automotive mythology.

I guess I should have clarified my reply! All I know is that even though the GMC and Chevy Trucks share the same parts, GMC Trucks for the most part and especially 1970's through 1990's GMC Trucks were better built. I believe that this was because the employees at GMC Plants that built trucks, had a lot more pride in their' jobs and pride in what they built.

 

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[A2coins]

I am working on a 2000 GMC 1500 pickup, with a5.3 v-8 engine. I was sure that the reason that it just quit was because the fuel pump quit working. The reason was that the gas gauge on the dash would show empty whenever the tank reached half empty. Anyways, I replaced the fuel pump (which entailed lifting and removing the bed) and also replaced the fuel filter. Then I proceeded to start the vehicle, but luck. I borrowed a electronic analyzer from the local parts supplier and it read that my crankshaft position sensor needed replacing. So with much difficulty I changed that sensor, but the vehicle still won't start. I finally checked to see if I was getting any spark, and guess what, I am not getting any spark. So, my question is; what should be looking for to be the problem? I appreciate any suggestions. Thank You.

Ive been an auto technition for many years sounds like your going to replace parts that don't need to be. like many people do if you have roadside towing or AAA and want to fix it yourself I get it its a lot cheaper . Take it to Dealership service pay 100 to have it diagnosed then do the repairs yourself, we use tools and equipment to diagnose . The gauge could be a sending unit it could be electrical pay the 100 bucks youll still end up saving a ton the way your going lol Just my 2 cents.

 

[Nitric]

And this must be one of those guys that tells his' wife to make sure she checks the fluid in the tail lights on her' car!

If you wanna have some fun the next time your at you local auto parts store, start asking them to look up parts that don't exist. Autozone is always good for this. We've asked for parts with a straight face and the guy on his computer will look forever!!!! Unless, you get a guy that actually knows cars but those were rare where we use to go.

Uhhh Ya, I need a muffler bearing for a 1972 chevy Duster. ok, well? If you don't have that I'll get it online. Lets try for a fuel overflow solenoid for a 82 thunderbird, I'm sure you have that, it's on a ton of vehicles and is the same part number, I just forget the number........

Another fun one is to take an anti theft sticker off a package and stick it to the sensor on the way out the door. The alarms go off, they check your bag or wave you through, but they can't be reset until someone finds the sticker and removes it or the alarms keep going off after each time they are reset. Ya, my friends and I are kinda immature and played with our friends at the local auto parts stores.The new guy working there always got the initiation.

 

[huntsman53]

If you wanna have some fun the next time your at you local auto parts store, start asking them to look up parts that don't exist. Autozone is always good for this. We've asked for parts with a straight face and the guy on his computer will look forever!!!! Unless, you get a guy that actually knows cars but those were rare where we use to go.

Uhhh Ya, I need a muffler bearing for a 1972 chevy Duster. ok, well? If you don't have that I'll get it online. Lets try for a fuel overflow solenoid for a 82 thunderbird, I'm sure you have that, it's on a ton of vehicles and is the same part number, I just forget the number........

Another fun one is to take an anti theft sticker off a package and stick it to the sensor on the way out the door. The alarms go off, they check your bag or wave you through, but they can't be reset until someone finds the sticker and removes it or the alarms keep going off after each time they are reset. Ya, my friends and I are kinda immature and played with our friends at the local auto parts stores.The new guy working there always got the initiation.

Those are real funny! However, some guys don't take it well when they find out. In that case, you might get a tool with a Military Designator ID, like "Wrench, Lug" in your nuts or "Hammer, Ball Pin" upside your head, etc., etc...

 

[Ammoman]

So you are saying that the O.P. should purchase another truck, right?

Yes...even if the truck gets fixed, a truck of that age and miles will continue to be a problem.

 

[cw0909]

old digger, i didnt read if you changed the coil pack, if you didnt, maybe try this
few yrs ago a friend not sure if it was his gmc or his dodge truck, anyway he said
the Cpack had a thermal fuse on the ground wire. so he spliced into the Gwire &
ran it to the neg bat terminal, fired right up.

 

[smokeythecat]

Good luck with it. I'd agree with having a pro look at it with their computer. Cars are so icky these days normal folks can't fix them, even one that old.

My 2008 Chevy Equinox 6 banger has 177K on it and goes like nobody's business. Looks new and runs that way too. If it ever needs a trans or engine, I'll just get one, cheaper than a new vehicle.

 

[old digger]

First of all I would like to thank you all for you very helpful suggestions. Thank You!

I had a friend of a friend help me figure this problem out. Well guess what, the problem was that when I installed the crankshaft position sensor I had it like 3/16 of an inch off center, not allowing the sensor to function right. After we did that minor adjustment the truck fired right up. Boy, am I glad it wasn't any thing more major.

Again, Thank you all with your helpful advise!

 

[old digger]

I also would like to add, the mechanic that helped me said that dispite the age and miles on the truck, it is still in very good condition. And I can vouch for that because I always try to take good care of it. I change oil at least every 3000 miles, But he did recommend that I exchange the power steering fluid, and also the brake fluid. He also recommended that I change the front and rear differential fluids. I guess I overlooked a few necessary services. I did flush the tranny 20000 miles ago so it should still be good for a few more miles.

 

[releventchair]

First of all I would like to thank you all for you very helpful suggestions. Thank You!

I had a friend of a friend help me figure this problem out. Well guess what, the problem was that when I installed the crankshaft position sensor I had it like 3/16 of an inch off center, not allowing the sensor to function right. After we did that minor adjustment the truck fired right up. Boy, am I glad it wasn't any thing more major.

Again, Thank you all with your helpful advise!

Success!
Replacement parts are not always the same as what came off ,(thread length ect...) but putting a witness mark on them and next to them where they touch can help sometimes.

Replaced a magneto coil on an old tractor in the field and marked the magneto's original position to help in resetting the timing.(Was easier for me to pull the whole thing off.)
Turned out , it was right on when the marks were lined up....

 

[A2coins]

Glad to hear it Tommy

 

[old digger]

It was just odd, because there is only one bolt that holds the sensor on, and I had it turned just that little bit for it to not register.

Success!
Replacement parts are not always the same as what came off ,(thread length ect...) but putting a witness mark on them and next to them where they touch can help sometimes.

Replaced a magneto coil on an old tractor in the field and marked the magneto's original position to help in resetting the timing.(Was easier for me to pull the whole thing off.)
Turned out , it was right on when the marks were lined up....

 

[The1rod]

I also would like to add, the mechanic that helped me said that dispite the age and miles on the truck, it is still in very good condition. And I can vouch for that because I always try to take good care of it. I change oil at least every 3000 miles, But he did recommend that I exchange the power steering fluid, and also the brake fluid. He also recommended that I change the front and rear differential fluids. I guess I overlooked a few necessary services. I did flush the tranny 20000 miles ago so it should still be good for a few more miles.

glad to hear you got it fixed! As far as I'm concerned that's still low mileage on your truck! I have an 08 silverado with the 5.3 and have 230,000 miles and it runs like a top. I wouldn't hesitate to jump in and drive it across the country at any given time!

 

[Megalodon]

I also would like to add, the mechanic that helped me said that dispite the age and miles on the truck, it is still in very good condition. And I can vouch for that because I always try to take good care of it. I change oil at least every 3000 miles, But he did recommend that I exchange the power steering fluid, and also the brake fluid. He also recommended that I change the front and rear differential fluids. I guess I overlooked a few necessary services. I did flush the tranny 20000 miles ago so it should still be good for a few more miles.

I agree that a well-maintained and gently driven truck, especially that one with the v-8, should have much more life in it. I see vehicles that are poorly maintained and driven by maniacs and those are the ones that won't last. I agree with the PS and brake fluid changes & diff. fluids (easy to do yourself) if you have not done them since new. A drain & refill is preferable to a flush for the transmission also. I have simply drained & refilled the torque converter with each oil change as an easy & gradual alternative. Sometimes the diff fluid spec is on a sticker on the fill plug - might need to know if it is a limited slip rear or not for correct fluid spec.

Congrats on the fix!

 

[EastCoastmetal]

Ive been an auto technition for many years sounds like your going to replace parts that don't need to be. like many people do if you have roadside towing or AAA and want to fix it yourself I get it its a lot cheaper . Take it to Dealership service pay 100 to have it diagnosed then do the repairs yourself, we use tools and equipment to diagnose . The gauge could be a sending unit it could be electrical pay the 100 bucks youll still end up saving a ton the way your going lol Just my 2 cents.

Worst nightmare for the tech at the dealer, the customer has tried "everything" and cant get it to work... ugh hated those type of jobs. Sometimes you find the problem right away but usually you end up fixing other problems that the customer or whoever has caused before finding the original problem. Then sometimes you don't know which came first the chicken or the egg... or the original problem or the problem they caused.

Then they cry because you had to spend more time trying to sort out their mistakes.

 

[huntsman53]

First of all I would like to thank you all for you very helpful suggestions. Thank You!

I had a friend of a friend help me figure this problem out. Well guess what, the problem was that when I installed the crankshaft position sensor I had it like 3/16 of an inch off center, not allowing the sensor to function right. After we did that minor adjustment the truck fired right up. Boy, am I glad it wasn't any thing more major.

Again, Thank you all with your helpful advise!

I am glad you all found and fixed the problem! You should be glad that it is not the nightmare swap of the crankshaft position sensor on a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4 liter engine. You have to thread the wires under the the timing belt and around the inside of where the timing belt cover housing bolts up, then through a small gap behind the power steering pump and then up and over the engine to the connector under the throttle cabling. I had to loosen the timing gear and pry it out temporarily to get the wires behind the timing belt. Pheewww!!

 

[huntsman53]

On another note, I came up with something you can do to prolong the life of the engine and especially the compression and oil rings in your' vehicle. Every 3 to 5 months, I pour Heet (fuel system water remover) and Injector Cleaner into the gas tanks of my' truck and cars. At the same time, I pour in a half pint of high test Alcohol and about 1/3rd of a bottle of two cycle engine oil (the oil you put into the gas tanks of weedeaters and chainsaws). Not only does this mixture remove any water out of the fuel system and clean the injectors, it also dissolves a lot of build up from the crappy Gas with Ethanol in it and the two cycle engine oil lubricates the valves and cylinders while the other components do their job. I somewhat learned this from driving trucks and tractor-trailers in the U.S. Army. We would add Denatured Alcohol to the fuel tanks and also add Cherry Juice (Transmission Fluid) which would not only remove water from the fuel system but would clean the injectors and cylinders, it would also lubricate the valves and the cylinders. My' 1999 Ford Ranger made it to 319,631 miles before my daughter blew the engine in it but I believe if a compression test can be performed on the 5 good cylinders, that the compression would be at least 180 PSI or more. At 250,000 miles just before I had the injectors replaced because one (number 6 cylinder) shorted out, the compression test came back with (I am pretty sure) 195 PSI on all cylinders.

 

[A2coins]

We get alot of vehicles worked on by customers and they arent forth coming about what they did lol. Tell ya we fix it right the first time... I hear ya Ive seen cars towed in with a box of the parts they took apart col cry out loud

 

[Ammoman]

Awww...now your excuse to buy a new truck is gone! LOL Congratulations of finding out it was a simple fix!

 

[old digger]

I can't afford a new truck, if I had to replace it with a new one I'm sure it would cost me over sixty grand. I love this truck, it gets me around just fine. When I removed the bed liner it looked like the paint was still in new condition.

Awww...now your excuse to buy a new truck is gone! LOL Congratulations of finding out it was a simple fix!