Jun 03, 2012, 08:45 PM
RP4 SHAKER TABLE
I bought my RP-4 Shaker Table brand new about 4 months ago and was looking to sell it. It was used a dozen times. I also have the correct stand for sale I'm located in Illinois and will meet someone within 75 miles to sell it to them. I paid $2295.00 for the table and $275.00 for the stand. Make me an offer through PM and I will consider it . Thanks.
Jun 04, 2012, 08:13 AM
wow you really stepped up to the plate with the RP-4 table. why the quick turnaround??
Jun 04, 2012, 08:56 AM
Can't figure it out. I tried everything that was suggested in the previous thread I had made and just can't get it to work the way I think it should work. So I figured it was time for me to sell it.
Jun 04, 2012, 10:18 AM
Have you called Global Mining Solutions....?? Speak with Brian if you do.. sometimes hard to reach...very busy... but extremely helpful and knowledgeable.. he is one of their higher level managers...
I professionally use the RP4 extensively for final processing of my cons.. Where I mine.. we have an enormous amount of black sand from the box.. as much as 300 to 400 pounds a day... I can reduce this down to about 25 pounds, greatly enriched with all the gold in it withn a hour or less...can't do that panning...
The 25 pounds of piure black sand and gold is now rerun seveal times to "cut" more and more of the black sands from the gold...and finally, you'll get the gold free from the black sands...with that beng said... while the RP4 is a great machine.. it isn't perfect either.. You will loose some gold.. the 200 minus to 400 minus pieces .. not actually loose then.. they just will not seperate from the larger black sand cons... .. however.. within a 2 or 3 hour period of time, you can process an enormous amount of concentrates across the RP4 and get it down to just gold.. something you cannot do with a pan with that amount of concentrates...
The really supper fine gold you couldn't get out of the black sands... keep all that material.. someday have it profssionally processed... and you'll be extremely pleasantly surprised to how much gold you couldn't see is in those black sands...up to 500% more gold..
Also too.. once you are down to near the final cut of gold from the black sands...you begin to notice different colors of sands lagging behind the gold..small narrow strings of colors...but flowing within the same gold lead on the table... these different colors are usually parts of the rare earth group.. some very expensive stuff...
I feel bad you are having trouble with the RP4.. because it is such a great machine to use...but it does take patience.. and practice and very fine.. small.. fine tunning adjustments.. a very small adjustment will go a long way in table reaction...
Just one final note...
Do you have youir RP4 bolted down on the stand which MUST bolted to a flat and level concrete slab...the RP4 STAND MUST BE LEVEL...if not it will not werk correctly..vibration harmonics will interfer with the correct table operation...also have you ever alowed your RP4 to stand out in the sun light for an extended amount of timed without either water running across it or being covered... if so.. the table may be warpped... When not in use.. be sure to cover it with a tarp.. the sun will bake the table and warp it... ever so slightly.. but warp it just the same.. once warped. it isn't sny good to anyone...
I wish you luck and feel bad you are having trouble with one the best clean up concentraters on the market...
Last edited by Klondikeike; Jun 04, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Jun 06, 2012, 12:36 AM
Thanks for all the info. My biggest problem was that I wasn't running the #1 over and over again to get most of the black sand. I was able to get about 7 5 gallon butckets of dredge cons down to about 3 tbsp consisting of gold and black sand. I did notice that I was getting better results if I fed the material directly at the beggining of the screen. If I didn't feed it there, a bunch of the gold would get stuck in the trap before the screen. Also my line of gold would break as I was getting closer to the #1 cut, usually about 3/4 down the table, but it would still fall in the #1. Now the hard part is getting the super fine gold seperated from the black sand. I have a blue bowl and was wondering if I should run it through this or try the table again.
Jun 06, 2012, 06:47 AM
Ike, how do you check to see if the table is warped? use a long straight edge? if it is warped could a person/company repair it somehow?
Jun 06, 2012, 11:41 AM
Your first run should be to JUST cut the black sands from the blond sands.. then start cutting the black sands down...This way you'll be able to seperate the heavier magnetic sands from the good sulfide and teluride sands...Save the mags.. as often the platinum group metals and rare earths are often locked up in the mags.. have these processed professionally..... Like all clean up machines.. screen your material..and run like sized material for any cutting process...Yes I also get a collection of gold before the first screen...a sucker bottle picks up easily though...
There are so many close tolerance angles, a straight edge won't work...You'll know it is warpped by the way it works.. not able to seperate the different sands and gold ... and there is NO repair once it is warpped...the construction technology and the extreme close tolerances of the table will no allow for any repairs to be completed with any significant amount of success...
It does take some time in the sun to warp.. I keep mine covered at all times except for use... I picked mine up new in Oregon.. and it was in the back of my pickup uncovered all the way to south central Arizona with out any warping during spring time weather and tempatuires...but during the summer months, especially in the southern latitudes.. you might have a problem with warping if a full day in the sun was allowed...as long as there is moving water on it.. it works just fine.. but without water or tarped, after a while it will warp...then you're done...
Jun 07, 2012, 11:03 AM
so if a person were to buy a used table,he would have to run it before he could determine that it was warped.so potentially a person wouldnt know if its a bad table or not prior to buying one??
Jun 07, 2012, 01:22 PM
Yes... Russau...I'd becareful in buying a used RP-4 table.. most likely it would be in great shape... but would be especially careful if the table was in the deep south west where tempatures reach well into 110 on a daily basis at times...proper care for the table is essential in these latitudes...
There is a learning curve to the RP-4.. as with all things new to us.. so if the table works properly or not may depend on your knowledge of the correct operation of the table to begin with...not so much as with the condition of the table.. I do know it takes a lot of sun to warp the table.. but if the table has not been properly cared for, you might be buying somethng useless to a point.. then again... if you get it at a really reasonable price.. maybe well worth the investment.. it s a personal call.. wehatever you wish or want to do with your money.....
Jun 07, 2012, 11:41 PM
Do you screen before you run the cons on the table? I guess at which point do you start screening the cons and what size screen. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by Klondikeike
Jun 08, 2012, 03:15 AM
Endeaver to perservere
Have to agree with Klondike about heat and what it does to things.
Different materials have different "coeficiants of thermal expansion" .
A material in the sun will move more than a material in the shade because it gets more solar energy heating.
But how much is too much warpage? Flatness can be measured by dial indicator down to .0001 of an inch.
I have worked on projects that have these tolerances of flatness.
Steel moves .00000633/inch/degree F
Aluminum moves .00001244/inch/degree F
If they are connected something has to move. But how much is too much?
Nothing stated may be true as far as we know
Seek professional advice. Some items are limited
Not available in all states. Illigitimi non carborundum. Carpe oro.
Jun 08, 2012, 03:27 PM
I screen to 1/8 inch....then run that across the table... anything above 1/8 can USUALLY and easily be seen in a pan..or in whatever i am using to screen with...this will cut your amount down you have to process as well...
Rememer..clasifcation..clasification..clasificatio n...The closer you get the cons particles to the size of the gold particles the higher the recovery...This absolute rule ia true in sluice boxes, jigs and table plus all othwr gold recovery equipment...Clasification is a major key in gold recovery...
The info about the permenant warping of the RP-4 when exposed to excessive sunlight comes directly from the manfcture... and it is their suggestion to keep it covered or in use...
BTW.. ever seen how much PVC or pure Vinyl products change shapes when exposd to dirct sunlight... 2 inch PVC pipe cn move as muc as 1 inch over 30 feet of pipe... Vinyl side on a house is installed very loosely so it can move during seasonal changes...this is much greater movement than metals...
Jun 08, 2012, 08:16 PM
My table has a built in 1/16th screen on it. Do you still recommend classification to 1/8th as nothing between 1/8 and bigger then 1/16th would pass through the screen. Or do you recommend removing the screen and run the 1/8 through it.
Last edited by mu50stang; Jun 08, 2012 at 09:49 PM.
Jun 09, 2012, 12:34 AM
I screen at 1/4... and t 1/8...and run both.... WITH THE BULT IN SCREEN IN PLACE.....anything larger wil be found in he nugget traps...
Jun 09, 2012, 12:44 AM
Thanks for all the help. I think I'm getting better at figuring this out. I just ran dredge cons from Thursday through it and I'm liking the results. After the first run I reran the #2 cut and and got a bunch of gold with black sand in #1. My plan is to rerun everything at least one more time the same way. Then I will try and get as much gold out of the black sand as possible. Thanks again.
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