question for an expert on where to look.

[wild eyed willey]

Through my research I have learned that gold travels a specific path as it journeys down a stream. It is my understanding that gold will deposit itself along the inside of a river bend.. I have also read that as a river ages the inside bend gains material deposits forming first, sand and gravel bars and later topsoil and plants, Turing eventually into stream bank, while at the same time the outside of the bend erodes away.

So my question is this. Is gold only found in the water at the bank, or is it possible that looking more on shore ( where the older river bend used to be) might also hold gold that was deposited long ago?

Have any of you ever found this to be true? can you offer any details about where and how you found the spot that could help a novice?

 

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[B H Prospector]

Hello Willie,
You are correct that gold can and is found in the old bend or where the creek used to flow. That is what is called a bench. On one of my claims I am working a bench that was formed thousands of years ago and is high and dry about 100 ft. from the creek and 40 ft or so above the creek. I know of benches on the same creek that are even higher. The main thing is to dig to bedrock. Even on a high bench there will be bedrock that the water cut through as it cut deeper and made a new channel and left the bench high and dry. On my claim I have one to two feet of top soil and about 13 ft. of gravel and clay before I hit bedrock. If the bench is rather close to the existing creek then bedrock will likely be at the same depth as the present ceeks bedrock. A bench close to the creek could also have been deposited during flood stage. Hope this helped.

Good Luck!

BH Prospector

 

[wild eyed willey]

Hello Willie,
You are correct that gold can and is found in the old bend or where the creek used to flow. That is what is called a bench. On one of my claims I am working a bench that was formed thousands of years ago and is high and dry about 100 ft. from the creek and 40 ft or so above the creek. I know of benches on the same creek that are even higher. The main thing is to dig to bedrock. Even on a high bench there will be bedrock that the water cut through as it cut deeper and made a new channel and left the bench high and dry. On my claim I have one to two feet of top soil and about 13 ft. of gravel and clay before I hit bedrock. If the bench is rather close to the existing creek then bedrock will likely be at the same depth as the present ceeks bedrock. A bench close to the creek could also have been deposited during flood stage. Hope this helped.

Good Luck!

BH Prospector

I think my river is much younger and so the bench would be two or three feet from the water line... also I am right on bedrock, for the most part just a few inches of sand then bottom. I can only dig in the places where the sand has piled up, the rest I have to get a sucker, because the trowel doesn't scrape much off the rocks. I was thinking of digging a trench from the waters edge in about three or four feet to see what I might find.. I was not sure if it was a good idea or not.

 

[B H Prospector]

Hi Willie,
If you can follow the bedrock in to the bank I would give it a shot. Especially if it has gravel going into the bank. Clean all the sand etc off the bedrock and the cracks etc. You can get plans on the net to build a suction tube for the water work.

Good Luck!

BH Prospector

 

[Lanny in AB]

I think my river is much younger and so the bench would be two or three feet from the water line... also I am right on bedrock, for the most part just a few inches of sand then bottom. I can only dig in the places where the sand has piled up, the rest I have to get a sucker, because the trowel doesn't scrape much off the rocks. I was thinking of digging a trench from the waters edge in about three or four feet to see what I might find.. I was not sure if it was a good idea or not.

Google how to spot old channels. Sometimes they look not at all what a current in-stream bench or bar looks like. I've found beautiful gold in ancient bars and benches. Follow the advice given to you to check out your current bench and drop back in with a follow-up.

All the best,

Lanny

Check out my thread in the metal detecting for gold section:http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/metal-detecting-gold/69-bedrock-gold-mysteries-57.html

Lots of good, general gold prospecting tips and stories there from many prospectors.

 

[wild eyed willey]

Hi Willie,
If you can follow the bedrock in to the bank I would give it a shot. Especially if it has gravel going into the bank. Clean all the sand etc off the bedrock and the cracks etc. You can get plans on the net to build a suction tube for the water work.

Good Luck!

BH Prospector

I am having lots of trouble building my suction tube... My original gasket ( piece of pipe insulation) broke after several pulls.. I also had problems with the material in the tube draining out before I could get the end of the tube into my bucket. I need to find a better way to make a gasket for a tighter seal. I have tried several ideas and none have worked.. I may have to bring the whole contraption to a machine shop and ask for help. I'm at my witts end.

 

[AzViper]

I am having lots of trouble building my suction tube... My original gasket ( piece of pipe insulation) broke after several pulls.. I also had problems with the material in the tube draining out before I could get the end of the tube into my bucket. I need to find a better way to make a gasket for a tighter seal. I have tried several ideas and none have worked.. I may have to bring the whole contraption to a machine shop and ask for help. I'm at my witts end.

You can buy a set of dies that will cut round gaskets. I have a set at work that goes from 1/2" up to 3". You can also find a piece of steel pipe that has the inside dimensions of the size gasket you need and make a cutter. First cut the pipe to 6" in length. Grind the outside edge of one end to a 45 degree angle to the inside edge the entire circumference of the pipe. Place the pipe on say a piece of 1/8" neoprene. With a hammer tap on the top of the pipe along the top edge of the pipe and it will cut out a nearly perfect circle. When ground correctly the finished edge will be like a razor and will cut through the neoprene very easily. You can also buy an adjustable gasket cutter.

 

[NeoTokyo]

Awesome info guys.

Being that you are lucky to have light overburden on your bedrock I suggest grabbing a mask and snorkle and do some underwater sniping when the weather gets warmer.

You can check out a couple of my vids on my youtube channel. CrainRacing - YouTube

There is a ton of gold to be found this way too.

 

[TerryC]

I am having lots of trouble building my suction tube... My original gasket ( piece of pipe insulation) broke after several pulls.. I also had problems with the material in the tube draining out before I could get the end of the tube into my bucket. I need to find a better way to make a gasket for a tighter seal. I have tried several ideas and none have worked.. I may have to bring the whole contraption to a machine shop and ask for help. I'm at my witts end.

Try this: istead of using gaskets. use a solid rubber ball. Compress it by using a nut and bolt up through the suction rod tip. By turning the nut in, causing the ball to bulge out, you can get the right fit..... and it is adjustable! TTC

 

[Aurabbit79er]

I built and tested this. I bought everything to build it at Home Depot for under $50.
I used a temporary pipe stopper for the piston.
The Hand Dredge worked perfect, 4 pulls filled the trap.
Then I took the tip to the sluice (or bucket). Rotate the trap up 180º and it all dumps out.
All connections are twist lock for easy servicing.
Different tips to reach tuff spots.

Even fully submerged it sucked like a champ.

 

[wild eyed willey]

I built and tested this. I bought everything to build it at Home Depot for under $50.
I used a temporary pipe stopper for the piston.
The Hand Dredge worked perfect, 4 pulls filled the trap.
Then I took the tip to the sluice (or bucket). Rotate the trap up 180º and it all dumps out.
All connections are twist lock for easy servicing.
Different tips to reach tuff spots.
View attachment 696698
Even fully submerged it sucked like a champ.

Any chance you could send me some plans for this,, It looks like we are pretty close in design.
My main tube is 1.5" PVC I used a 60 degree on the business end without the catch tank because I want to dump right into the sluice box or a classifier. My plunger handle is 3/4 PVC ( so far) I also have several heads depending on my needs. It looks like your main tube might be 2"

 

[wild eyed willey]

Try this: istead of using gaskets. use a solid rubber ball. Compress it by using a nut and bolt up through the suction rod tip. By turning the nut in, causing the ball to bulge out, you can get the right fit..... and it is adjustable! TTC

Thanks for the idea, but I don't know how I could attach a rubber ball to the 3/4 pvc plunger rod, but I may have to make a plan if nothing else works..

 

[wild eyed willey]

Awesome info guys.

Being that you are lucky to have light overburden on your bedrock I suggest grabbing a mask and snorkle and do some underwater sniping when the weather gets warmer.

You can check out a couple of my vids on my youtube channel. CrainRacing - YouTube

There is a ton of gold to be found this way too.

I would love to try this, but my stream is below my knees, I hope there is more water next summer. I'll check out your youtube link

 

[JohnGalt]

I am having lots of trouble building my suction tube... My original gasket ( piece of pipe insulation) broke after several pulls.. I also had problems with the material in the tube draining out before I could get the end of the tube into my bucket. I need to find a better way to make a gasket for a tighter seal. I have tried several ideas and none have worked.. I may have to bring the whole contraption to a machine shop and ask for help. I'm at my witts end.

WEW.... I found some rubber seals and doubled them up in the 2 inch PVC I made mine out of, but had the same result as you. I am still not sure how to get this done so if you come up with something, ... could you pass it on? It seemed to work pretty well at home in the sink, but out in the field, ...it sucked ...... or didn't ...thus the problem. I may take a few pictures of what I did and post then here, perhaps someone has a better idea.

 

[KevinInColorado]

The Gold-n-sand pump uses a leather seal and it works great. Even better they will sell u just the seal so you can make your own pump if you want. http://www.gold-n-sand.com/

 

[wild eyed willey]

WEW.... I found some rubber seals and doubled them up in the 2 inch PVC I made mine out of, but had the same result as you. I am still not sure how to get this done so if you come up with something, ... could you pass it on? It seemed to work pretty well at home in the sink, but out in the field, ...it sucked ...... or didn't ...thus the problem. I may take a few pictures of what I did and post then here, perhaps someone has a better idea.

John, I think I found a solution to my problem. I haven't field tested it yet, but I have confidence it will work.

My main tube is 1.5" PVC My plunger handle is 3/4 PVC however I used a section of 3/4 CPVC under the gasket. ( the 3/4 CPVC has a smaller diameter than the PVC pipe) This small gap allowed the pipe insulation to compress enough to fit into the main tube. So now my plunger slides. I also took two 1/2" X 1.5" Fender washers and I used my step drill to open up the center holes to just slide onto the CPVC pipe. So I put one washer on either side of the gasket ( gasket is aprox. 2" long pipe insulation)
My plunger is made up as follows: 3/4" CPVC slip cap- Washer-Gasket- Washer-3/4" CPVC Male slip/FTP coupling-3/4" PVC Female slip/FTP coupling- 3/4" PVC pipe.

I did not glue the 3/4" Male slip/ftp coupling to the CPVC pipe. I slipped the pipe into the fitting and then drilled a 3/32' hole through the whole fitting and I used a cotter pin to keep the parts together. this way I can change the gasket if needed without cutting pipe.

To solve the material draining out of the end of the tube while lifting out of the water, I used a trick I saw on youtube.. I attached a string to the cotter pin, ran it through a small hole I drilled into the end of the CPVC slip cap and then ran it out the end of the nozzle. I tied the free end to a small ball so when I come to full stroke on the handle the ball seals the end of the suction tube so the material can't run out.

I expect to test in the field over the weekend.. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[TerryC]

Thanks for the idea, but I don't know how I could attach a rubber ball to the 3/4 pvc plunger rod, but I may have to make a plan if nothing else works..

Willey, put a wooden plug into the end of the driver pipe (3/4). Use very small wood screws that are countersunk. Put a fender washer at each end off the ball. Fender washers are large but only have 1/4 inch holes. Using a wood screw that is long enough, screw it through the washer/ball/washer into the wood plug (you drilled a pilot hole into the wood plug first). That's it. I got this idea from a "shrimp gun" that my brother TimC built. Works very good. TTC

 

[JohnGalt]

The Gold-n-sand pump uses a leather seal and it works great. Even better they will sell u just the seal so you can make your own pump if you want. Gold Prospecting Equipment by Gold-N-Sand

Thank you Kevin..... I looked over their sight and found the part you described. It might come to ordering it, but at the moment my budget on this thing is measured in Cents .... not dollars

Here are a few pictures, the 20 inch chainsaw just happened to be sitting there and it makes for good scale. The goo on my present seals is petrolium jelly to make a better seal and lube it (feel free to insert your own joke here).



WeW ..... Thank you as well, .. it continues to be in development.

 

[JohnGalt]

This Plunger seal MIGHT work better, .... it does in the sink anyway. Temp 2 1/2 pipe cap with some modifacation ... Home Dispare ..... 270 Cents.

 

[Goodyguy]

The best seal is two circles of soft leather 2" in diameter larger than the diameter of your tube sandwiched between two washers 3/16" smaller than the tube diameter. When feeding the plunger into the tube just make sure the leather flaps go in oposite directions (one up and the other down)


Also anywhere along the straight line between inside bends is known to contain pay streaks especially where there is a wideing of the waterway that allows the gold to drop out due to the slower flow.






GG~