Finally! My Sluice is up, running and catching gold!

[Jeff95531]

Is a DIY sluice ever really done? Boy have I learned a lot about theory, practice and patience. I originally was going to use this on the bank where I would be prospecting. But as costs soared and regulations tightened, I had to adapt it for home use. My first try resulted in several obvious problems. Sprayers needed to be aimed, drop was not enough, losing water in all kinds of places, front legs out too far for the catch basin to catch the flow, back legs too long, catch basin not wide enough for sluice clean out and finally, not near enough water pressure and plugging of holes due to sediment. Fixed all those problems (except for the pump). The pump box had a list of specs I really needed to know before I bought it. Like this:
Wire size: 16GA (I used 12)
Fuse size 10 amp. (I installed a 20 and when I went to change the fuse to a 10, I found I couldn't. Next time buy the newer style plug in.
Hose size max 1 1/4" (I have 1 1/2")
Max height of lift 7" (I'm at 44"!)
It's a wonder it works at all!

Anyway, if I had to do it again, I would go to a 4000GPH. Since that was not an option, I fixed the following.
Removed the check valve and the 50% flow restrictor behind it. Lowered the overall height. Trimmed the supply hose to minimum length.

Other wastes of time and money:
I wanted a hand held sprayer to rinse the sluice. The reality is the valve is too tight to turn (sound familiar?) and when it was shut off, it blew apart press fit stuff that I was NOT going to glue. All the plumbing is press fit or threaded. I used one 9" piece of plumbers tape to hold the assembly at head in place. That's it! Also, reducing water flow from inch and a half to 3/8? Soooo not worth it. Tossed the entire sprayer assembly aside. The shut off valve remains but is unused. The toggle on/off switch works perfect.

Added levels front and back. Bought wood shims (for installing doors) to level the sluice. Still only one inch drop and it was loading up. Went to a five inch drop and perfect! No more loading up and had no noticeable loss of water this time. Yea! Bought and installed 2 two inch wheels and installed in the back. Note: Do NOT buy swivel wheels, only fixed wheel! Even walking slow I still managed to flip it. Those have to be replaced.

Anyways, here is a cost list. I found out from a member here that the plans for the identical sluice are available and less than $20. I don't have the site right now, but that would have helped a great deal. Way back when, all I could find was the pics. We were using a ruler for scale on the pics because we knew the LeTrap was 4 feet long.
LeTrap $70.00
2200GPH $80.00
Hose $20.00
Stain $10.00
2x4’s $7.00
Tubs $25.00
Batt Charger N/C
Wiring $18.00
Switch, fuse
Hardware $30.00 (stainless steel and brass, wood shims, levels, wheels)
Labor N/C
PVC&Hand
Sprayer $40.00
$300.00

Here are the pics and a short video. The video quality is awful, but my phone was all I had to work with at the time.
With 2 1/2 gallons of unclassified material, I got 6 small flakes after I panned the concentrates. That wasn't bad for the spot I picked. Felt really good to add to my vile again.

Comments and critiques are encouraged.
Jeff

 

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[goldenIrishman]

Well it's about time dude! Next time don't hire the Murphy Engineering Company to do your design! you KNOW about their laws. I have a feeling that there's going to be many more modifications to your system as time passes. I know there always are on mine. Between you and I, we are both in first place for the "Rube Goldberg Award" for 2013.

I'll call ya later so you can fill me in in more detail on your trip out to the river.

Jeff

 

[63bkpkr]

Hi Jeff,
So I see now that the system is meant to be used at home after the 30 full 5 gallon buckets have been brought back from the site, OK.
Depending on how much/often you need to move the screening/sluice section around you might care to install some 4" diameter wheels on the one end as the small diameter ones will not roll well over even small stuff. Bottom line, it works with mods to improve it. Way to go!!..................63bkpkr

 

[Jeff95531]

Thanks Herb. I was thinking about lawn mower wheels on threaded rod or bolts, but they don't have 2 inches of adjustment...unless....hmmmm.

 

[nick2136]

Looks great!

 

[Jeff95531]

oops

 

[AzViper]

Looking good Jeff. The only thing I would add would be a triple tank system to help keep the water cleaner and put your pump in the last tank. Use a siphon method to balance the water between tanks. The sluice is outstanding. You may want a few totes as the dirt will fill the tote quickly so that you can replace and keep the sluice running. Image for my use but the same tank system would work for your sluice.

 

[Jeff95531]

Thanks AZ. The water was surprisingly clear once it was dialed in. The dozen holes drilled rather than over flowing seemed to help a great deal. It was very surprising to see and will definately keep your idea on hand when it stops working. The catch tub is a 10 gal and cheap as all get out @ WM, so more will be purchased. BTW, they are wide mouths, which fit the outlet of the sluice just right

 

[AzViper]

In the drawing I did not show the bucket that the sluice dumps into having holes but that bucket we use is riddled with holes. Helps when picking it up as all the water drains out. Its always a good feeling when you build something correctly and it works. You did a fantastic job on your build. Also glad to see you are using a quality Johnson pump. Yeah they make a 4000 GPH but that pump gets pricey...

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

Looking great Jeff!. I would recommend that you make the sides of your hopper much higher. The spray combined with material is going to splash and you could possibly lose gold and most likely get wet and muddy! I love that you are using a LeTrap as a sluice. Those things catch all the gold, but you need more flow. You can see the water surging and if you dont have enough water to keep the material in a stratified state it wont exchange, the drop riffles will pack with material and your gold will roll right on through... I know this from experience because I use a LeTrap as a final catch for dialing my setup in, If I catch it with the LeTrap I am doing it wrong above LOL. I bet just adding more holes or larger holes on your spraybar will allow the flow you need because 2200 GPH should be just barely enough flow for that sluice but you really got to open it up. This design looks GREAT! I love the wood and you have really done a fantastic job. Adding the level is a really good touch and I am sure you are going to catch lots of gold with that setup. Kudos!

 

[Jeff95531]

Looking great Jeff!. I would recommend that you make the sides of your hopper much higher. The spray combined with material is going to splash and you could possibly lose gold and most likely get wet and muddy! I love that you are using a LeTrap as a sluice. Those things catch all the gold, but you need more flow. You can see the water surging and if you dont have enough water to keep the material in a stratified state it wont exchange, the drop riffles will pack with material and your gold will roll right on through... I know this from experience because I use a LeTrap as a final catch for dialing my setup in, If I catch it with the LeTrap I am doing it wrong above LOL. I bet just adding more holes or larger holes on your spraybar will allow the flow you need because 2200 GPH should be just barely enough flow for that sluice but you really got to open it up. This design looks GREAT! I love the wood and you have really done a fantastic job. Adding the level is a really good touch and I am sure you are going to catch lots of gold with that setup. Kudos!

Now THAT's what I'm LOOKING FOR! Thanks for the advice and tips. When I watched my own video, I noticed the water was deeper on the right (facing it)even tho it was level. When I started feeding it...THEN I noticed. I fixed that. Definitely going to experiment with holes and bars. I've heard slices have been used instead of holes with success too. You should have seen the flow before I removed that check valve...it made me sick to my stomach. I knew I needed lots of water but (originally) it barely covered the riffles. Hopefully, the changes will succeed and I won't have to go up higher on the box.
TYVM!

 

[Aurabbit79er]

Looking good Jeff. The only thing I would add would be a triple tank system to help keep the water cleaner and put your pump in the last tank. Use a siphon method to balance the water between tanks. The sluice is outstanding. You may want a few totes as the dirt will fill the tote quickly so that you can replace and keep the sluice running. Image for my use but the same tank system would work for your sluice.

View attachment 898460

That is like what I built for Wet Desert Mining.

Here is some Red Chispa Gold;

 

[KevinInColorado]

What do you have supporting the classifying screen? Without good support, it will stretch and then fail fairly quickly.

 

[Jeff95531]

What do you have supporting the classifying screen? Without good support, it will stretch and then fail fairly quickly.

You are right Kevin, it does have a bit of a dip in it already. I classify to 1/4" and the screen is 1/8". It is stapled and built right in to the Header box. How should it be supported without interfering with the gold? i.e. gold getting stuck in the supports.

 

[KevinInColorado]

Basically I would say to relax about gold getting stuck in the supporting layer. You can always flush it out occasionally. Simplest option is a wider mesh, fatter gauge mesh under the 1/8 layer and then zip tie the two together every few inches in every direction. Have the zip tie binding clip on the bottom...or use twists of wire but I switched to small zip ties in my application as they last forever!

One upside to all this, you can shift your classification up to 1/2 inch which is just easier.

 

[mcordell]

Stuff like this is why I like hangin out with you guys. Ya'll know your stuff. Being a farm boy, I only use the plastic ball valves for temporary hard closures. If I'm adjusting flow/pressure and not worried about the hard closure, a brass gate valve is way easier to deal with and a 1" is only $10. Seems appropriate for post pump regulation.