Gold Cube water flow

CdnSilverback

Newbie
Jun 28, 2014
1
0
Dawson City, Yukon
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
I am just starting out with the Gold Cube and was wondering about a couple of things.
What I am after is very fine gold... 50- and smaller.

1) Would I need to reduce the water flow from the pump for this small gold?

2) It is mentioned to classify to #8... but would it not be better to go down to a 50 screen?

3) I have heard a number of ways to remove the air bubbles in the vortex matting.... but still having a problem. Does anyone suggest using a jet dry solution on the mats before starting?

Thanks
 

Upvote 0

ywevis

Full Member
Feb 24, 2013
142
190
Albemarle, NC
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
I am just starting out with the Gold Cube and was wondering about a couple of things.
What I am after is very fine gold... 50- and smaller.

1) Would I need to reduce the water flow from the pump for this small gold?

2) It is mentioned to classify to #8... but would it not be better to go down to a 50 screen?

3) I have heard a number of ways to remove the air bubbles in the vortex matting.... but still having a problem. Does anyone suggest using a jet dry solution on the mats before starting?

Thanks


This is what we do when we run our gold cube..

Get the hose pipe and put a sprayer on it. Hit that whole vortex matting with the water jet and rub your fingers in every groove. Sometimes we use jet dri, but not every time. We get tons of fine gold using the pump that comes with it. I rarely see 1-2 specks of super fine gold on the 4 th tray. It catches it all.

Classification, it's best to classify down to where your gold is and run it. We always go to a 12 to run it, and if we in alot of fine gold we go with a 20. I would just add jet dry in the water.
 

Jonsered

Jr. Member
Oct 12, 2009
50
49
New Mexico
Detector(s) used
White's Spectrum XLT
1) No. The Cube is set up to run at a certain volume. Altering that will alter your gold capture.

2) The advantage to classifying down smaller is that you can run greater volume of dirt in a given amount of time. It won't necessarily result in greater gold capture.

3) I used mine for about a year using a brush to get the air bubbles off the matting. It works perfectly, but you have to be patient and thorough. I finally broke down and ran a side by side test. Despite the statement from the manufacturer NOT to use a surfactant, I personally caught an average of 16.1% more gold using Jet Dry during a series of tests involving over 1000 pounds of cons.

Excellent little machine. Good luck.
 

ywevis

Full Member
Feb 24, 2013
142
190
Albemarle, NC
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
We also store our gold cube in water, maybe it's because we are lazy and don't have to redo the mats everytime LOL
 

stephenhansen2

Jr. Member
Mar 10, 2014
41
35
Ferndale, WA
Detector(s) used
Falcon MD-20
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
1. cut a 5/8" dowel rod to 10 inches.
2. roll the dowel down the water tray slick plate and it will jamb and dam up the water all but an inch on either side.
3. With the water on, you will see the water getting deep above the dowel.
4. Watch the scooped out section of the plastic that forms the Cube side openings, the water should not overflow out those sides. If it stays contained, you are good, if it overflows, you need to dial back the water.

Mike The inventer of the gc sent these to me about water flow.
 

goldhog

Hero Member
May 14, 2013
789
2,350
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I am just starting out with the Gold Cube and was wondering about a couple of things.
What I am after is very fine gold... 50- and smaller.

1) Would I need to reduce the water flow from the pump for this small gold?

2) It is mentioned to classify to #8... but would it not be better to go down to a 50 screen?

3) I have heard a number of ways to remove the air bubbles in the vortex matting.... but still having a problem. Does anyone suggest using a jet dry solution on the mats before starting?

Thanks

We have 1000's of runs with the cube and have played with it a LOT.
We have run material from all around the world and each type of "dirt", cons, and gold will run differently.
A lot has to do with the gangue material (clay, black sand, dirt, etc) that creates the slurry.

Here are some tips.......

1) Take a spray bottle and add a few tablespoons of JetDry. Then fill the rest with water. BEFORE you start the cube, spray all the matting lightly.
When you start to run you won't have ONE SINGLE bubble in the mat. And FYI......... soap bubbles do not float gold. The surface tension is much too low.

2) The more black sands you run the MORE you need active exchange. So slowing DOWN the flow will actually HURT the capture rate.
You might want to study up on hydraulic equivalence. If you slow down your exchange your matting will suffer from impaction (loads up) and
gold can ride over the mat.

3) TEST IT......... we have found that a 1500 gph pump actually works best for our unit and our area. Do testing, run your tailings again, and see if you have losses.

4) Store the unit dry and in the shade. The mats are mainly held on with glue and that can be eroded by long term storage wet.
Also, the matting can be degraded by long term UV exposure and heat.

5) Clean each tray out SEPARATELY.... most of your gold will be in the top tray, no need to add black sands to it.
We pan out each tray one by one and this also lets us know if we are running effectively.
i.e. if we see little to nothing in tray 3 we are good.

Doc
 

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