trash pump questions

[Goldwasher]

I know what milky oil is caused by and why its bad bad with a water cooled engine

Is there an interface between pump and motor on a trash pump that could fail and get water into the case?

No oil in the water side. I am chalking it up to condensation.

Someone who knows small motors... what say ye?

 

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[Asmbandits]

I don't think water can get from the pump into the case on that type of pump as the pump should have it's own case separate from the motor. But I could be wrong.

 

[Jason in Enid]

No, the pump is mounted onto an output shaft from the engine, and it has its own water seal. I can not think of a way water could move into the oil reservoir unless there is a crack in the engine housing, or a bad seal that is exposed to water as the engine cools.

 

[Hangtowndiggins]

Should be totally separate cases. If left out in the weather, more than likely water intrusion through the exhaust, intake or even spark plug if it was loose. Change oil, run it and check for milk again...

 

[Assembler]

Make sure the rubber is good and not cracked or plugged on the PVC (Crankcase breather tube).
Also is the coolant going down for any reason if this is a water cooled engine?
Do a pressure test on the coolant system to check for leaks if this is a water cooled engine. Last check the seal on the shaft between the two cases (Water / oil) with air pressure if you can say on the engine crankcase.

 

[mikep691]

Might be the only time you should the oil on a Briggs and Stratton engine.

 

[Assembler]

Might be the only time you should the oil on a Briggs and Stratton engine.

If the engine is a air cooled then change the oil in 1/3 -1/2 the hours that the manufacture says to. The shaft seal may be toast by now.

 

[mendoAu]

It does not take much water to make your oil milky. Kinda think you have just a simple 'ol four stroke with no cooling system. So like mentioned above if it got rained on or condensation seem to be the only culprits. I've ran lot's on engines with milky oil for lengths of time without any harm. Actually in allot of machine shops they use a oil/water lubricant when machining parts....so go figure. No more oil then they take I'd change the oil with a SMALL SPLASH of diesel washed in and out between changes. Might smoke a little when it starts but it will tend to take all the moisture with it and slightly lube all those internal parts that were subjected to water.

 

[Assembler]

It does not take much water to make your oil milky. Kinda think you have just a simple 'ol four stroke with no cooling system. So like mentioned above if it got rained on or condensation seem to be the only culprits. I've ran lot's on engines with milky oil for lengths of time without any harm. Actually in allot of machine shops they use a oil/water lubricant when machining parts....so go figure. No more oil then they take I'd change the oil with a SMALL SPLASH of diesel washed in and out between changes. Might smoke a little when it starts but it will tend to take all the moisture with it and slightly lube all those internal parts that were subjected to water.

Yes this is true. All the more reason to change the oil more often. When a hot engine cools down in a damp colder air it will pull in moisture from the air and there is little one can do about it. Just pointed out the above test for the worst case issues of pulling in water past the shaft seal or seals as this one has no idea what is going on for sure.
If the water does not show up again during the hotter months then it may be just fine. Oil with water in it is bad news because of the acids that it forms to eat away metals.

 

[Goldwasher]

Well, Telling something can't be done is a sure fire way to at least get me to try.

I flushed the case added oil. ran it for 5 minutes salad dressing right away.

It was also smokey as hell when it fired up.

I've ran this motor all wet season keep it covered etc.

The day it stopped I noticed water under where it was running. Not unusual as its a water pump but, my hoses weren't leaking.

Right where the pump housing meets what I would call the motor mount. there was a jet of water right up against the crank case.

Same thing when I fired it up after the oil change.

It seems that some sort of seal failed and maybe there's enough pressure to inject water past the main engine seal.

As in likely as it should be it seems to be.

I really wanted that motor down there until The water was gone as there is only a few days of sluicable flow left.

I did sluice for the remainder of the time down there.

Then had the pleasure of hiking out the pump with a full tank of gas cause I wasn't going to try and dump it back into my can without a funnel.

Now I have to figure out how to get the impellar off. That looks fun.

Considering I won't really get to use it more than once a week now since the store is open. I'll just shift gears to sniping and sampling. Right when I started into a good paystreak too.

Too much over burden to deal with without a power sluice

I can get a new pump from harbor freight for less than $200 bucks next wet season. Oh, well.

 

[QNCrazy]

When I first read your post yesterday, my first thought was it was not possible. I figured to only way it could happen is if your water pump seal and shaft seal failed at the same time. From what you are saying now, that seems to be the culprit. very rare happenstance. So is winning the lottery. Go buy a lottery ticket.

 

[Goldwasher]

When I first read your post yesterday, my first thought was it was not possible. I figured to only way it could happen is if your water pump seal and shaft seal failed at the same time. From what you are saying now, that seems to be the culprit. very rare happenstance. So is winning the lottery. Go buy a lottery ticket.

yea I made sure to note what threads the oil filled to.. ran it for five minutes at an idle.

Was emulsified with water right away threa threads of volume added. Failed seal for sure. It must have happened while I was running Wednesday.

Walking a fifty pound motor an eighth mile up a slate bedrock stream, that has slimy May algae on all surfaces followed by a steep climb to where I park is not my idea of fun.

At least this time of year I can drive to where I park. If it was wet out its a mile or so walk. No, big deal for a walk but carrying an awkward water pump not so much​

 

[Assembler]

Well, Telling something can't be done is a sure fire way to at least get me to try.

I flushed the case added oil. ran it for 5 minutes salad dressing right away.

It was also smokey as hell when it fired up.

I've ran this motor all wet season keep it covered etc.

The day it stopped I noticed water under where it was running. Not unusual as its a water pump but, my hoses weren't leaking.

Right where the pump housing meets what I would call the motor mount. there was a jet of water right up against the crank case.

Same thing when I fired it up after the oil change.

It seems that some sort of seal failed and maybe there's enough pressure to inject water past the main engine seal.

As in likely as it should be it seems to be.

I really wanted that motor down there until The water was gone as there is only a few days of sluicable flow left.

I did sluice for the remainder of the time down there.

Then had the pleasure of hiking out the pump with a full tank of gas cause I wasn't going to try and dump it back into my can without a funnel.

Now I have to figure out how to get the impellar off. That looks fun.

Considering I won't really get to use it more than once a week now since the store is open. I'll just shift gears to sniping and sampling. Right when I started into a good paystreak too.

Too much over burden to deal with without a power sluice

I can get a new pump from harbor freight for less than $200 bucks next wet season. Oh, well.

The engine seal is not much of a pressure seal when new. Think of a wiper blade as the purpose is to skim off the water to flow away. The same is true with the new engine shaft seal.

The water pump seal is different as some pressure / vacuum is involved with that type of seal. So when the pump seal fails often the water will get past the engine crank seal very quickly.
Dirty water will kill a water pressure / vacuum seal it is just a matter of time. Some people will install a felt washer in front of the seal to be replaced each season to help extend the life of the pressure seal.

 

[Asmbandits]

I have a spare brand new 2" trash pump I'd let go really cheap, still in box if you even need one.

 

[Goldwasher]

I have a spare brand new 2" trash pump I'd let go really cheap, still in box if you even need one.

158 gpm?

 

[Hangtowndiggins]

When I first read your post yesterday, my first thought was it was not possible. I figured to only way it could happen is if your water pump seal and shaft seal failed at the same time. From what you are saying now, that seems to be the culprit. very rare happenstance. So is winning the lottery. Go buy a lottery ticket.

Yeah that's about as rare as the 50mph runaway 35" truck tire that just so happened to slam into my wife's 4Runner on her drive home today I told her to buy a lottery ticket too.

 

[Goldwasher]

Yeah that's about as rare as the 50mph runaway 35" truck tire that just so happened to slam into my wife's 4Runner on her drive home today I told her to buy a lottery ticket too.

Dang you guys haven't had it long either.

Glad she's ok I bet it scared her

 

[Bonaro]

The seal on the motor is designed to keep the oil in. It's not so good at keeping pressurized fluids out. If there was a pressurized stream of water blowing past the pump seal and hitting the oil seal I can see this happening.
Replace the pump seal or wrap some duct tape around the shaft to deflect the water jet and dredge on

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

Mind disclosing what brand pump it is? If it’s harbor freight...I have had one do the same after 8 months of use. Had the $13 warranty and took it back and got another.

 

[Goldwasher]

its a briggs motor. it was bought used