Miller table size

[A#1]

I'm about to start making a miller table.....

How big should I make it?

 

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[RTR]

I built this one its 2'x4' works great Good luck
A bigger table = more surface area to process the material . This allows me to process 3,4,5 tablespoons of material (on different areas of the table)
in the same time frame that a smaller table would take to processes 1 tablespoon.

 

[RTR]

4 inch drop over the 4 foot length works perfect using this size pump( for minus 20 mesh material).Table top coated with 4 coats of this paint. Also I cut a "money-pit slot" to catch the -100 mesh gold.Minus 20 mesh gold stops in its tracks(where you drop the material) as pictured here,w/ water flowing . Gold separates from the black-sand w/in seconds.

 

[A#1]

2 foot by 4 foot.....seems kinda big. Is it more than you really need?

Are you happy with that paint? It was one of the possibly surfaces i would use, I think i like the green color, rather than black.

 

[RTR]

2 foot by 4 foot.....seems kinda big. Is it more than you really need?

Are you happy with that paint? It was one of the possibly surfaces i would use, I think i like the green color, rather than black.

Bigger table separates More material than a smaller one and faster.The paint has held up great w/no problems.I used paint because a 2'x4' piece of slate was impossible to get.

 

[A#1]

Yeh, I wont be using slate, but I can usually come up with whatever materials I choose, just dont know what I want yet.

Figured I'd decide on a size first. I want it plenty usable without being excessive is all. I also don't want to wish I'd made it bigger.

 

[RTR]

IF,you want a 'small' one ,lots of places sell them(for not much more) than it will cost to make one.

 

[No gold in NY]

A miller table does not have to be big. You are feeding it with a teaspoon, not a shovel. Mine is 8X24 inches. It was a fun build. I used the AZviper design and I love it.

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/g...ng-miller-table-using-rubber-mat-surface.html. I hope this is the link, but it is not the original. You can write AZviper and get the link to the original post.

 

[A#1]

This will be as close to a zero $ investment as I can get, most materials will be scrounged up somewhere, or I already have. I've already spent way too much money on this hobby than it's really worth to me. Aint enough gold in Michigan, just a fun reason to drink beer and play in the water.

I dont really require small, I just dont want to have it really any bigger than it needs to be.....I'm running out of house to store all my toys.

 

[Capt Nemo]

I built a cutting mat table with about a 10" x 11" working area. I scuffed the mat with 400 grit sandpaper.

 

[arizau]

I would use plain/unfinished 1/2" or 3/4" baltic birch plywood*, available from woodworking supply stores, for construction. Unlike common plywood, the 1/2" is 11 ply and it comes in dead flat sheets with a fine grain. Sand it with fine paper, then wipe down with a wet cloth to raise the grain then sand it smooth again (woodworkers trick before applying final finish for cabinet making/an extremely smooth finish). There will still be microscopic irregularities (I can imagine similar to slate) that give the wood "tooth" to encourage the gold to stop or slow down. Even though it is bare wood, due to the extra plys it is unlikely to ever warp in usage since it is not subject to constant water exposure/soaking and it can occasionally be re-sanded if thought necessary.

Good luck.

*https://forestplywood.com/blog/all-about-baltic-birch/
https://www.google.com/search?q=bal...9j69i60j0l3.6567j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Bonaro]

FYI - a "real" Miller table is 2' x 5' and comes with a pulsator

 

[mytimetoshine]

Personally I would suggest a blue bowl over a miller table. Same price, one works great all by itself while you do other things. The other one spits gold all over the place, is slow as heck and needs constant attention.

 

[A#1]

Personally I would suggest a blue bowl over a miller table. Same price, one works great all by itself while you do other things. The other one spits gold all over the place, is slow as heck and needs constant attention.

Actually, I just ordered one today.

I just wanted the table to try. I figure I can make it for next to nothing, so why not give it a whirl, see which I prefer

 

[A#1]

So it generally looks like bigger is better, and they're dimensionally longer than wide.

I suppose I'll shoot for something around maybe 16 by 30.

Reckon how tall should I make the sides? 3 inches seem adequate?

 

[RTR]

So it generally looks like bigger is better, and they're dimensionally longer than wide.

I suppose I'll shoot for something around maybe 16 by 30.

Reckon how tall should I make the sides? 3 inches seem adequate?

2 to 3 inches is plenty, mine is over kill at 4" .Your only gonna have a 'film' of water flowing down the table.The thickness of 1 to 2 nickles.

 

[RTR]

Most critical part of the table is...Water flow and angle of the table. Get those right and your... 'in like Flynn'
You don't want any air bubbles in the water flow.And a few drops of liquid soap helps,I use "dishwasher rinse aid".

 

[RTR]

Usually I'll wait until the next day when the table is dry.Then sweep up the gold w/a 2 " nylon brush onto a sheet of white paper (some of the gold is -100). Then on to be weighed & bottled. Look close at the fold in the white paper.Some -100 caught by the table.Some of it is smaller than a pin head.Also note how clean it is,just a few specs of garnet.
CAUTION ...this is addictive ! << magnified many times, So small it floats on the top of plain water.

 

[A#1]

I'm looking for a sheet of something, and I'll use the table saw to cut the sides from that, leaving the table surface.

I suppose then, I could do 1 inch sides, and leave the stock on the table.

 

[A#1]

Now, this board here.....Is it just like a water gate?

Space it up "a couple nickles"?

Adjust the water speed accordingly to keep the box behind it regulated?


Having some issues with the pic, you probably know what board I mean



HAH!!!got it