Favorite diamond or carbide tools for cutting, drilling rock?

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Hello
Do some brands last longer then others? Is it best to always run a coolant?
 

trdking

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Yes some last longer than others. The cheap stuff burns out quickly. It is always best to wet cut with water. You can add a little wetting agent and dish soap if you want but I don't think it really matters. I like MK Diamond
 

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Yes some last longer than others. The cheap stuff burns out quickly. It is always best to wet cut with water. You can add a little wetting agent and dish soap if you want but I don't think it really matters. I like MK Diamond
Yes this one agrees about cheap tools. This one has heard of MK sounds good. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Anyone try a 'Hole saw' then break up the center part with a chisel?
 

arizau

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Hello
Anyone try a 'Hole saw' then break up the center part with a chisel?

If you were to do this then drill more than one hole. A series of holes in side by side lines should enable you to crack off the partition between them maybe even with a pry bar. Best would be to drill in a tight pattern then you can expand from the outside in by drilling more holes.

Good luck
 

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If you were to do this then drill more than one hole. A series of holes in side by side lines should enable you to crack off the partition between them maybe even with a pry bar. Best would be to drill in a tight pattern then you can expand from the outside in by drilling more holes.

Good luck
Yes drilling a number of small holes in a straight line is a good way to split a rock. Maybe if the rock breaks easy or is on the softer side a pry bar can speed things up.
 

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Hello
Anyone try a 'Hole saw' then break up the center part with a chisel?
Was thinking if one finds a small 'Highgrade spot in the rock' trying a carbide hole saw then breaking up the center of the donut hole.
 

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Was thinking if one finds a small 'Highgrade spot in the rock' trying a carbide hole saw then breaking up the center of the donut hole.
Hello
Found a 3 bit tungsten carbide tipped hole saw on sale ( 60mm or 2 3/8") on sale to use as a spot hole tester on some types of rock. To use say on any 'High grade rocks' to spot drill for test crushing and panning.
Also found a diamond 7 inch blade to try doing some straight cutting at around 6-8000 RPM. to slice out 'High grade'.
Any tips out there on how to use?
Thank you.
 

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Great thread for the clueless.Of which I am one. Liking the educational info. Cheers and hope it keeps going.
 

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Better cutting tools

Great thread for the clueless.Of which I am one. Liking the educational info. Cheers and hope it keeps going.
In this day in age it should not be all hand star drill and hammer. So any other type of cutting and drilling is going in the right direction. This one needs to look at a few books that is for sure.
Don't think most people will do to well just working 'Low grade ore' all the time. The 'Old timers' sure did not just work 'Low grade ore' all the time. A lot of 'Old timers' where in and out in a short time.
Not everyone can start with large electric or air hammers to start with. Just getting some basic crushing equipment and metal detectors can set most people back some or a lot. There is also the work and time thereof.
 

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In this day in age it should not be all hand star drill and hammer. So any other type of cutting and drilling is going in the right direction. This one needs to look at a few books that is for sure.
Don't think most people will do to well just working 'Low grade ore' all the time. The 'Old timers' sure did not just work 'Low grade ore' all the time. A lot of 'Old timers' where in and out in a short time.
Not everyone can start with large electric or air hammers to start with. Just getting some basic crushing equipment and metal detectors can set most people back some or a lot. There is also the work and time thereof.
What is the point of this forum if people can not learn and share a few things?
 

trdking

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Hello
Found a 3 bit tungsten carbide tipped hole saw on sale ( 60mm or 2 3/8") on sale to use as a spot hole tester on some types of rock. To use say on any 'High grade rocks' to spot drill for test crushing and panning.
Also found a diamond 7 inch blade to try doing some straight cutting at around 6-8000 RPM. to slice out 'High grade'.
Any tips out there on how to use?
Thank you.
For field work I have a battery powered rotohammer that can drill holes or chisel hammer and a battery power skill saw that will accept a 4 1/4 inch diamond blade. What is a Star bit? HA!
 

trdking

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In this day in age it should not be all hand star drill and hammer. So any other type of cutting and drilling is going in the right direction. This one needs to look at a few books that is for sure.
Don't think most people will do to well just working 'Low grade ore' all the time. The 'Old timers' sure did not just work 'Low grade ore' all the time. A lot of 'Old timers' where in and out in a short time.
Not everyone can start with large electric or air hammers to start with. Just getting some basic crushing equipment and metal detectors can set most people back some or a lot. There is also the work and time thereof.
I buy most of my stuff at pawn shops. Don't be afraid to negotiate with CASH! I am after a gas powered 14 inch diamond blade saw next.
While water is always good, it is tough in the field. For those that don't know they make the blades specifically for dry cutting and wet cutting. You can wet cut with a dry blade but not the other way around. Wet cut blades require water.
 

Deft Tones

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Alpha makes outstanding diamond tools for the stone industry. They can also educate you on the science of diamond tool technology

You have to choose the correct bits and blades for the stone you're working. You can simplify it by selecting equipment for granite, then everything else.

Granite blades/bits have a softer steel core the diamonds are sintered to. This is so the steel wears away exposing fresh diamond constantly. Softer stones should be cut/drilled with a harder steel core blade to prevent the metal from overglazing the diamonds and effectively killing the ability to cut those stones. If your blades wear out quickly, or cutting performance decreases quickly - you're using the wrong blade or bit type for the material you're working.

Coolant depends on blade design. Continuious rim blades tend to require coolant, segmented blades are usually wet or dry use. High rpm blades are dished and segmented so the steel core can deform under high RPM and heat into a flat blade... so if you're wondering why some blades look cupped, that's why.

Lots more could be said on the subject of diamond tools and diamond tool technology, but I point you to Alpha for more info. They make some first rate tools.

I've worked in stone professionally for over 18 years, fabricating for money, sculpting for fun.
 

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Thank you for the tips everyone.
 

Nano

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Alpha makes outstanding diamond tools for the stone industry. They can also educate you on the science of diamond tool technology

You have to choose the correct bits and blades for the stone you're working. You can simplify it by selecting equipment for granite, then everything else.

Granite blades/bits have a softer steel core the diamonds are sintered to. This is so the steel wears away exposing fresh diamond constantly. Softer stones should be cut/drilled with a harder steel core blade to prevent the metal from overglazing the diamonds and effectively killing the ability to cut those stones. If your blades wear out quickly, or cutting performance decreases quickly - you're using the wrong blade or bit type for the material you're working.

Coolant depends on blade design. Continuious rim blades tend to require coolant, segmented blades are usually wet or dry use. High rpm blades are dished and segmented so the steel core can deform under high RPM and heat into a flat blade... so if you're wondering why some blades look cupped, that's why.

Lots more could be said on the subject of diamond tools and diamond tool technology, but I point you to Alpha for more info. They make some first rate tools.

I've worked in stone professionally for over 18 years, fabricating for money, sculpting for fun.

Awesome info again. What a useful thread. Thanks to everyone for sharing,from me as well.
 

Deft Tones

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I forgot to mention splitting. If you need to split rock by hand it's pretty much wedges and feathers for everyone.

Edit to add, pneumatic tools are preferable to electric tools whenever possible.
 

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I forgot to mention splitting. If you need to split rock by hand it's pretty much wedges and feathers for everyone.

Edit to add, pneumatic tools are preferable to electric tools whenever possible.
The only option for splitting rock is a hydraulic wedge for bigger cracks.
Yes this one agrees with pneumatic tools are better.
 

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The only option for splitting rock is a hydraulic wedge for bigger cracks.
Yes this one agrees with pneumatic tools are better.
Forgot to thank you for the tip about buying used tools from used stores.
 

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