Garrett AT Pro vs. Whites MX5

[falconman515]

I am just wanting to know if anyone has experience with both of these rigs and how they compare on all levels

I am almost sold on the AT Pro but I wanting to see how the MX5 stacks up.

Please no talk about "get this or get that" (unless maybe it sin the same $500 price range, no less no more) over the two that are already stated here ... I know many others may be better but this is the Only price range I am staying at currently and the only two I am currently considering.

Thanks you so much for any comparison you can provide on these detectors as far as side by side, pros & cons, and overall thoughts and results.

Garrett AT Pro ....
Garrett AT Pro Metal Detector For Sale - Kellyco Metal Detectors

Whites MX5 ....
White's MX5 Metal Detector For Sale - Kellyco Metal Detectors

 

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[fella]

I had the MXT Pro, the MX5's bigger badder cousin and the electronics the MX5 is based on.. I still prefer the ATP and I loved my MXT Pro. It was great detector for me. Audio feedback is better w/ATP, the MXTP was deeper w/like size coils.
No manual ground balance for the MX5 kinda kills it for me. But lets say (for argument sake) the performance of the two is the same. The MX5 uses twice as any batteries, isn't waterproof and no freq shift (comes in handy for emi & others hunting close by).

I have no doubt the MX5 is a fine detector but it's not a MXT Pro even though they're related.

 

[norbyx]

I agree in the point that the mx5 is not an mxt pro... That is for sure.. The mxt pro is probably the best single frequency detector that whites ever made.
As for the at-pro, I am done discussing on a detector that I disliked...
Make your own experience, that is what I have always done myself.
Everyone loved Tesoro, I bought 3 and disliked every one of them, everybody loves the at, I bought it and disliked it. The v3i is the best detector ever made, bought it and ended up selling it too.... Now I have a whites dfx and a mxt pro... Will I ever sell them... Well who knows, but for now after having had a lot of detectors this are the ones I like the most, especially the mxt pro (had the mx5, m6, mxt and now the mxt pro, and this last one beats them all).

 

[falconman515]

Make your own experience, that is what I have always done myself.
Everyone loved Tesoro, I bought 3 and disliked every one of them, everybody loves the at, I bought it and disliked it. The v3i is the best detector ever made, bought it and ended up selling it too

This is it right here .... one guys detector they LOVE another guy hates.

One guy who owns the expensive cats meow Spectra v3i says he does way better with another machine half the price.

Once guy who owned the AT Pro and didn't like it as much as another .... the other guy feels The Exact Opposite.

But your right ... Make Your Own Experience is the way to go .... I just want to make sure I am getting something top notch for the money I have to spend ... and I have no doubt that EITHER way I go I will be a force to to reckoned with if I take the time and effort "To Learn It" ... A guy who knows his machine will run circles around the guy with another machine that costs 3 times as much who has not taken the time to learn it ... and I think most all veteran detectorist would whole heartedly agree with that statement.

Thanks so much guys for your feedback and thoughts though.

 

[fella]

I know you've been asking primarily about these two detectors but have you considered the Tesoro line? While I personally don't care for the ones I've owned, they do perform great. Well within your budget too. If you can live with a single tone and thumbing disc, you can great performance for little money! Just a thought.

 

[falconman515]

You know I have seen a few of the Tesoro's that have been recommended in other threads I have read (like the Outlaw and the Vaquero) but call me crazy but visual technology is something that comes natural for me and is a great guide to me in knowing and learning what I hear and is something I want to have in the detector I own (gotta have a screen with information and ID labels ... it's just something that helps a guy like me ... plus I am not a fan of the old school knobs).

They may be killer machines but they are not equipped with the visual aspects of what I am looking for in my next detector.

 

[dirtscratcher]

I would try to get my hands on any detector before I bought one. I bought a tesoro before I ever seen one and was shocked at what I got.

 

[norbyx]

What makes it difficult in the detecting world is that you need time to test a detector, so getting you hands on a detector at a dealer, basically tells you very very little on how the detector will or will not work for you.
I understand that money is not always our friend, and we can't go out and spend lots of it as we most likely would like to. I also agree that if you learn your machine you will be a killer compared to a noob on its top of the line detector.... But if you have learnt one, and than got another and learnt that one also, you can perfectly say why one is better than the other and probably will keep the better one, unless you like how they all look hanging on your wall.
If money was no issues all of us will have the best of each brand..... Is there a best overall best detector out there..... No there is not... There are lots of different detectors that are good doing different things... Some are good in deep silver.... Not so good in small gold, some are fast, other are slow, some are good in trash, some are not, some are good in Targhet ID some are worse... And all in the top of the line segment...

I had the luck to test most brands out there (I am still missing the minelab), and for now, IMPO whites is the one that has worked best in my soil and hunting conditions.

I still am curious to test a minelab or a XP someday.... And who knows, if they performed better than what I have I would most likely sell all my detectors and keep just what works...

BTW. I had the v3i and mxt like a year and a half ago, I sold them both for one reason or another than went into the Garrett and Tesoro, just to realize that the whites was what I was missing, sold everything to get into the whites again, now after almost two years I have (again) the mxt... And it feels like I got home....

 

[falconman515]

Crap I wish I was able to test out detectors before I have o buy ... but I have nothing local at all.

I am now down to 3 detectors .... The AT Pro vs. Whites MX5 vs. Fisher F70 DD

My ATP vs. F70 thread ......... http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/head-head-comparisons/409245-garrett-pro-vs-fisher-f70-dd.html

I wish I could try them all but I can't

 

[BamaBill]

It would really help to know what type of hunting you'll be doing with it. I have an AT-Pro and I've only had it out once for relic hunting, but did test it in my backyard test spot and its strength seems to be how fast it recovers. I have a CW Minieball bullet buried at 10" that has been there for 2 years. The bullet is surrounded and slightly overlapped by a few rusty nails. The AT-Pro sees it with the stock coil, no VDI number, but I get a brief high, repeatable tone, in the middle of the iron grunts, from the nails. None of the other detectors I currently own can do that as well. A lot of people feel that the stock coil makes it too nose heavy and I can see why. I shortened mine as much as I could and still detect (I'm 6 foot tall). This has helped immensely. I will be using the 5X8 on it to coinshoot this summer and get better acquainted with how targets sound. But, for relic hunting you'll want to use the stock 8.5" X 11".

Crap I wish I was able to test out detectors before I have o buy ... but I have nothing local at all.

I am now down to 3 detectors .... The AT Pro vs. Whites MX5 vs. Fisher F70 DD

My ATP vs. F70 thread ......... http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/head-head-comparisons/409245-garrett-pro-vs-fisher-f70-dd.html

I wish I could try them all but I can't

 

[falconman515]

Thanks for the reply ... I have since decided decided to go none of the directions I has stated above.

I am now looking at Only Minelab ... was tossing around the 705 but I am more then likely for the price going to try and find a used FBS machine like an E-Trac.

Just gonna be patient until I find the deal of a lifetime on one and bite!

Thanks though again for the reply.

 

[BamaBill]

Thanks for the reply ... I have since decided decided to go none of the directions I has stated above.

I am now looking at Only Minelab ... was tossing around the 705 but I am more then likely for the price going to try and find a used FBS machine like an E-Trac.

Just gonna be patient until I find the deal of a lifetime on one and bite!

Thanks though again for the reply.

Good luck. I also have an X-terra 70, which is just an earlier generation of the 705. I love the 70 for how light it is, especially since I got a White's straight rod and replaced the S configuration. Made using the 10.5" DD coil a pleasure and while it doesn't have quite the super separation that the AT-Pro does (no slouch though), it does get better depth. But, if you can handle the weight of an E-trac you'll have a great machine for general purpose hunting.

 

[gfmucci]

Attempt at understanding "iron discrimination" feature vs. notching feature

I have read the manuals for each of these, the AT Pro and the MX5 and am trying to understand the "Iron discrimination" function of the AT compared to the continuous notching scale of the MX5. Here are my questions and observations:

The ability to "discriminate out" iron and "notching out" iron are two different animals. Lets see if I can express the difference: Discriminating out a signal reduces the sensitivity of the broad frequency spectrum that identifies iron - 0 to 30 on the AT Pro scale. (I found out this is wrong)* Notching out suppresses the signal on narrow parts of the frequency spectrum, like notching out 5 to 10 or 15 to 25. If a machine was able to "notch out" 5 point segments between 0 and 30, what would be the difference between that and "discriminating out?"

I understand that discriminating out is a "variable sensitivity control" over that entire 0 to 30 range, whereas "notching" is an "all or nothing" (on/off) of the 5 point segments anywhere throughout a given range. The "normal" sensitivity control addresses the entire spectrum from 0 to 100 whereas the "iron discrimination" adjusts the sensitivity only below 30. Am I close? Please correct me if I am wrong.

If I am close, then this question: What is the benefit of discriminating that range (0 to 30) versus notching out all or portions of that range?

As I understand the AT Pro system, the variable iron sensitivity (discrimination) setting applies to the range of 0 to 30 (the iron range); notching is available from 40 to to 100 in 5 unit increments.

As I understand the Whites MX5 system, notching covers the entire range from (in Garrett equivalency*) from 0 to 100 in 20 segments.
(*Whites uses a non-linear scale of from -95 to +95 where the notching is broader in the negative range (5 notches) and more refined in the positive range (15 notches).)

So, these are two different approaches to addressing the same problem. Are they equally effective? Or is one better than another and if so, why?

* Revelation: The "Iron Disc" on the AT Pro does NOT raise and lower the sensitivity of the entire range from 0 to 40 as I first thought. It discriminates out a progressively wider range of notches from 0 to 40. Set at 5, it cuts out the range from 0 to 5. Set to 20, it cuts out the range from 0 to 20. I personally don't think the user manual is very clear on this, but that's just me. Thanks to Bart at Big Boys Hobbies for clarifying this for me.

 

[rwd mo]

I have read the manuals for each of these, the AT Pro and the MX5 and am trying to understand the "Iron discrimination" function of the AT compared to the continuous notching scale of the MX5. Here are my questions and observations:

The ability to "discriminate out" iron and "notching out" iron are two different animals. Lets see if I can express the difference: Discriminating out a signal reduces the sensitivity of the broad frequency spectrum that identifies iron - 0 to 30 on the AT Pro scale. Notching out suppresses the signal on narrow parts of the frequency spectrum, like notching out 5 to 10 or 15 to 25. If a machine was able to "notch out" 5 point segments between 0 and 30, what would be the difference between that and "discriminating out?"

I understand that discriminating out is a "variable sensitivity control" over that entire 0 to 30 range, whereas "notching" is an "all or nothing" (on/off) of the 5 point segments anywhere throughout a given range. The "normal" sensitivity control addresses the entire spectrum from 0 to 100 whereas the "iron discrimination" adjusts the sensitivity only below 30. Am I close? Please correct me if I am wrong.

If I am close, then this question: What is the benefit of discriminating that range (0 to 30) versus notching out all or portions of that range?

As I understand the AT Pro system, the variable iron sensitivity (discrimination) setting applies to the range of 0 to 30 (the iron range); notching is available from 40 to to 100 in 5 unit increments.

As I understand the Whites MX5 system, notching covers the entire range from (in Garrett equivalency*) from 0 to 100 in 20 segments.
(*Whites uses a non-linear scale of from -95 to +95 where the notching is broader in the negative range (5 notches) and more refined in the positive range (15 notches).)

So, these are two different approaches to addressing the same problem. Are they equally effective? Or is one better than another and if so, why?

The notch width is different on all detectors I have noticed as on a minelab its 2 digits wide and on a fisher its 5 digits wide and on a garrett its 5 digits wide and on a whites its 12 digits wide on the mxt pro's. On a Tesoro its adjustable on older models and wide or narrow on the u-max series. Love my mxt 300 but the wide notch feature sucks as is too wide for some of my places to cherry pick. Like the minelab really well. (digits are from 1 to 100) so on a whites nickels is 18 and their notch is about 15 to 25 etc too wide of a notch for me. just a thought rwd mo

 

[fella]

The notch width is different on all detectors I have noticed as on a minelab its 2 digits wide and on a fisher its 5 digits wide and on a garrett its 5 digits wide and on a whites its 12 digits wide on the mxt pro's. On a Tesoro its adjustable on older models and wide or narrow on the u-max series. Love my mxt 300 but the wide notch feature sucks as is too wide for some of my places to cherry pick. Like the minelab really well. (digits are from 1 to 100) so on a whites nickels is 18 and their notch is about 15 to 25 etc too wide of a notch for me. just a thought rwd mo

Good point rwd mo! I really liked my MXT Pro but felt the notches were the size of dump trucks. Since the MX5 is "based" on the MXT's platform, I would imagine it to be no different.

 

[gfmucci]

The notch width is different on all detectors I have noticed as on a minelab its 2 digits wide and on a fisher its 5 digits wide and on a garrett its 5 digits wide and on a whites its 12 digits wide on the mxt pro's. On a Tesoro its adjustable on older models and wide or narrow on the u-max series. Love my mxt 300 but the wide notch feature sucks as is too wide for some of my places to cherry pick. Like the minelab really well. (digits are from 1 to 100) so on a whites nickels is 18 and their notch is about 15 to 25 etc too wide of a notch for me. just a thought rwd mo

If I understand the user interface on a few of these brands correctly, it is meaningless to express the width of notching in terms of "number of digits" (2 or 5 or 12) without also referencing the width of the entire scale, i.e. a 100 point scale or a 200 point scale. For example, the AT Pro goes from 0 to 100 - its notching above 40 on that scale is 5 digits wide in 12 groupings. White's scale on the MX5 goes from -95 to +95 in 20 groupings of various widths, from 20 digits wide at the far left iron end up to 5 digits wide in the positive range of the 200 point scale. Another example, the Coinmaster GT has only 8 ranges with the lowest range (iron) probably having around 40 digits (in its -95 to +95 scale) with the upper groupings having anywhere from 10 to 20 digit widths.

This is all to say that in a 100 point scale, a 5 digit width is a 10 digit width in a 200 point scale, both having the same level of discrimination within their respective widths. And vice versa, a 5 digit width in a 200 point scale is a 2.5 digit width in a 100 point scale, both having the same level of discrimination within their respective widths.

 

[fella]

I think you are making much more of this than need be IMO.

If all you wanna do is cherry pick coins but wanna try and keep nickels, go with the ATP. The Nickel window is MUCH tighter.
You wanna search for jewelry, you don't notch anything so it's a moot point.

Want a backlit screen, get the MX5. If you want to buy twice as many batteries, get the MX5. Want audio that actually works, the ATP.
If you're in clean newer areas it's a coin flip. Both will work well at picking clad at 4". Want the one that is TRULY more versatile and will work better in more environments, the ATP's your bunny!

 

[norbyx]

[QUO TE=fella;4066553]I think you are making much more of this than need be IMO.

If all you wanna do is cherry pick coins but wanna try and keep nickels, go with the ATP. The Nickel window is MUCH tighter.
You wanna search for jewelry, you don't notch anything so it's a moot point.

Want a backlit screen, get the MX5. If you want to buy twice as many batteries, get the MX5. Want audio that actually works, the ATP.
If you're in clean newer areas it's a coin flip. Both will work well at picking clad at 4". Want the one that is TRULY more versatile and will work better in more environments, the ATP's your bunny![/QUOTE]
Want to ground balance every 30ft, get the ATP, the whites has ground tracking so no need for that.
You might wonder why people say one is better than another. Well because there still isn't a "perfect" detector for each one of us. One works best for one situation and the other works best for another. I had the at-pro for one year and even if I tried to make it work, in my hunting conditions it just didn't.
No better way than testing yourself.
I have whites and love it. Still need to put under the test bed an xp and a minelab.

 

[gfmucci]

I think you are making much more of this than need be IMO.

Thank you for your comments. To clarify one point:
IMO, I am asking all the questions I need to to get the information I need to learn what I need to know to make the decision I need to make. IMO your post would have been more use-friendly sans opening remark. Your comments are generally helpful, but the statement "if you want audio that actually works, the ATP" (audio doesn't 'work' in the MX5) sounds like an unhelpful exaggeration that contradicts better explained comments by others and that causes a credibility "red light" to flash on your post. But your other comments are mostly helpful. If I didn't post my previous comments, I would not have received your helpful comments. Thanks.

By the way, I am fascinated by the technology and enjoy learning about the reasoning behind various approaches that manufacturers take and how these various approaches work out for people in different situations. I also want to learn what features are more gimmick than truly helpful and which are hype versus substance. Like a detectoist, if I absorb enough opinions of people's experiences, I can sort the trash from the good stuff and reason through a good decision for myself.

 

[fella]

Want to ground balance every 30ft, get the ATP, the whites has ground tracking so no need for that.

Every 30ft?…LOL…funny stuff right there! But I can do it if I so choose. Not so much with the MX5 that can't be GB'd manually. I'm sure it's still a fine machine though!

I had the real deal in the MXT Pro, not the pretend one. I know how well they all work. Probably why I STILL own the ATP.

Thank you for your comments. To clarify one point:
IMO, I am asking all the questions I need to to get the information I need to learn what I need to know to make the decision I need to make. IMO your post would have been more use-friendly sans opening remark. Your comments are generally helpful, but the statement "if you want audio that actually works, the ATP" (audio doesn't 'work' in the MX5) sounds like an unhelpful exaggeration that contradicts better explained comments by others and that causes a credibility "red light" to flash on your post. But your other comments are mostly helpful. If I didn't post my previous comments, I would not have received your helpful comments. Thanks.

By the way, I am fascinated by the technology and enjoy learning about the reasoning behind various approaches that manufacturers take and how these various approaches work out for people in different situations. I also want to learn what features are more gimmick than truly helpful and which are hype versus substance. Like a detectoist, if I absorb enough opinions of people's experiences, I can sort the trash from the good stuff and reason through a good decision for myself.

Credibility, "red light" to flash my post…more funny stuff! Oh my!
The ATP audio simply works "better" because of it's tone roll abilities which makes is a billion time "better" to audio hunt with. That audio works like a dream on bottle caps. The Whites is bloody bottle cap magnet (if it's anything like the MXT). Also works great on zinc pennies too. Zinc pennies have a scratchy sound making em easy to id. Many IH's fall in that # range too except they are smooth sounding. That's what I meant about audio that "works". I'm sure the MX5 will beep too!
If more segments of disc is what you think is important, the MX5 will be right up you ally. No matter if can park a bus in one of em! Personally I like tight nickel windows. While the ATP's not the tightest of all detectors, it's certainly better than the E series in the nickel-tab ranges.
Personally I don't really care what you get. I'm not vested either way! Enjoy!