MMiner, Civilman, Buckleboy...How about some electrolysis how to??!!???!!???

[Kiros32]

I figure we should all learn from the best...let's see it!!!

[Eu_citzen]

I have not sued it but heres some info:
http://www.mycoincollecting.com/coll...ctrolysis.html

[EDDE]

http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.p...c,10898.0.html
Floaters Folgers Electrolysis Machine

[{Sentinel}]

ModernMiner, you can post the Electrolysis "How To" that I sent you awhile back if you like.

[Timberwolf]

I'm not one of the above metioned "best", but I would be glad to tell you how I do it, if you would like to hear

TW

[Kiros32]

I'm not one of the above metioned "best", but I would be glad to tell you how I do it, if you would like to hear

TW

By all means...

[Timberwolf]

There are probably better ways to do this....but this is how I have done it, and it has worked well for me.

I take an old 110 A/C to DC adapter from a toy, radio, tape player...etc.
Cut off the connector that would plug into the device, then separate the two wires.
The wire marked with a line will normally be the positive wire.

If the wires are not marked, use a volt/ohm meter to determine which wire is positive, then mark it so you know which wire is which.
Next, strip the insulation off each wire, about a half inch.

Go to Radio Shack and get some alligator clips (If you don't have any). You will need two....one for each wire.
Attach each wire to an alligator clip.
Current flows from negative to positive, so you will want to connect the negative lead to the object to be cleaned.
Connect the positive lead to a stainless steel spoon or knife. A silver rod or wire would probably work better, because the stainless steel gets pretty yucky after some use.

I have never tried to clean a large object, so normally I just find a glass bowl or container, large enough for the job.
Fill the container about 2/3's full with water, and then stir in a few tea spoons of salt, until it dissolves.

You are now ready to clean your object.
Place your object (which is connected to the negative lead), into the solution, making sure it is completely covered.
Now place the spoon/knife/rod (which is connected to the positive lead), into the solution.

Now plug the A/C adapter into an electrical outlet. After a while, you will probably notice debris flaking off your object.
That is a good sign. This means that your "electronic cleaner" is working.

Cleaning could take a few hours, to a few days.
When debris stops flaking off, you are pretty much done.

TW

[fmerg]

ok i just did the transformer with the clips and can tell ya it works!!!!!
i have a 1997 king george III that i could only see when the light was just right
now after 10 mins i can see it all
thanks

[BuckleBoy]

This is the first time I saw this post. Darn! Well, here ya go...this is the recipe sent by Sentinel to Modernminer to me. I have modified it a bit... my additions in Red.

ELECTROLYSIS SET-UP (Approx. total cost = $40)

Materials:
*ANALOG battery charger. NOT a digital type with amp light indicators. Do not buy a digital one--it will turn off because it will think that a battery is done charging!
Most have three settings:
6volt / 6amps , 12 volt / 2 amps, & 12/volt / 6 amps.

*About 10’ of ¼” copper tubing.
You can buy a small roll at Home Depot or Lowes in the plumbing section for about $10.
Since the copper tubing was expensive and deteriorated quickly, I recomment thick guage Copper Wire. You can take sandpaper to it clean it if you need. I have also used copper wire I have dug for electrolysis.

*A BLACK round PLASTIC wastebasket. (or bucket)
I bought mine in the wastebasket section at Wal-Mart for $2.88.

*A box of baking soda.

Set-up instructions:
*Place wastebasket on the ground.
*Crimp closed tightly one end of the tubing.
*Start to uncoil the crimped end of the tubing into the bottom of your wastebasket working your way up the inside wall of the w/basket.
*IMPORTANT: Keep the coils about 1” apart as you work your way up. You do not want the tube to touch during operation.
Uncoil enough coil so it is about 6”-8” up the inside of the w/basket.
Straighten a piece upward after your top coil so it goes up over the top of your w/basket.
*Crimp that end closed too.
This is going to be the end you hook your positive charger cable to, so you can bend it over the top edge of the w/basket if you wish. (90 degrees)
*Again, make sure your coils are not touching.

*Dissolve about 1/3 box of baking soda into a pot or bowl of water. Pour the mix into your w/basket. You want enough water to cover over the top coil.

You are now ready to “cook” your relics.
*Clip the positive end to the end of the tube sticking out of the bucket.
*Clip the negative end to your relic. Make sure it has a good grip. Place your relic on the bottom of the w/basket.

The key is cooking it at 2AMP for 2-3 hours at a time and then taking it out and looking at the relic...cleaning it off....and then after a few minutes hooking it back up and turning it back on. If it is something big like a piece of cannonball, axe head, etc. then you can leave it in for 4-8 hours at 2 amps before taking out and cleaning....
But if it is small, than it is better to cook it for either a couple hours on 6 amps OR on 2amps for 5-7 hours monitored, checking on it every couple of hours by taking it out and brushing it with a wire brush or..if it is iron...LIGHTLY tapping it with a spoon or something like that. If it has cooked enough, the rust will come off like Eggshell.

I made the mistake of letting my first attempt run for 8 hours on 12 volt / 6amp.
Big mistake! It destroyed my coil.
There are no harmful fumes. I still do my electrolysis outside...I let my relics cook all night or all day on 12v / 2amp with no problem. The key is checking it once in awhile. SHUT OFF THE POWER, pull out the relic, tap it with the back side of a spoon to knock off the rust. Wire brush it some, then cook it more as needed.

Once you are happy with the results, and the relic is dry, you may want to coat it with a shot of clear paint (gloss or semi-gloss) to keep it from rusting again. I place my relics in the oven on 200 degrees to try them, then I (using an oven mitt) LIGHTLY brush crisco over them, wipe off the excess, and bake them again in the oven. This will keep them from rusting back again.


I hope this helps,



Buckles

[Kiros32]

Damn dude lol, talk about delayed reaction

Thanks for the info Buckles

[BuckleBoy]

Damn dude lol, talk about delayed reaction

Thanks for the info Buckles

Next time, send me a PM lol. I read a lot on here, but I don't see every single thing that gets posted.

Hope the info helps.


-BB

[boogeyman]

The only thing I can add is.

I use citric acid in my bath instead of soda or other things. If there isn't much rust or concretion, citric acid will sometimes work without applying power.

For iron objects I use bees wax. Was told about beeswax by an old restorer. Dip or rub warm wax on the object warm the object until the wax appears to melt into it. Let the object cool, then buff it up with an old bathtowel.

You can buy citric acid from shops that supply ingredients for home brewing beer & wine. They sell it in 1lb. bags up to 100 lb. drums. fairly cheap too. When restoring large items like car parts or large power tools, you can use a plastic 55 gal drum split lengthwise with a 12v battery charger. The old cheap ones work good. Check thrift stores or swap meets for old chargers. You can usually find one for less than 5 bucks.

Another thing I use is restaurant grill degreaser usually runs $4.95 a gallon. Cleans grease oil & even light rust. Soak item, rub with a green scotchbrite pad, repeat until item looks like you want then rinse well. The neat thing about this stuff is it's acceptable for food service use. If the dogs or kids get in it just hose them off. I use this in my ultrasonic cleaner in a 3 to 1 mix with water. Another plus. If you're like me and spray rusty gunk all over your shirt & pants throw them in the wash, cold wash cold rinse with a half cup. Your out of the dog house with the wife.

[Tnmountains]

Only thing I can add is do not use copper tubing as it leaves big nasty green foam everywhere and eats the copper up fast. Use a stainless steel knife instead. It will last a long time and do large objects as well. Salt is all you need to get the item to be cleaned bubbling. Keep and eye on it till you have an idea how fast your set up is working. I use a 5 gallon buckets with about 3 inches over my project. Change the water every now and then and add salt and start again. Amazing. I also use an old analog battery charger and take off the alligator clips strip my wires back and wrap my project and stainless knife with the bare wires for a great connection.