Pinpointer help

MountainFan

Greenie
Jan 24, 2007
18
1
I've just started really learning my Ace 250. I'm slowly getting better at pinpointing targets with the detector and digging clean holes, but I've gotten frustrated when I dig a solid target only to find nothing in the hole. A pinpointer would sure help!! I have read all the great reviews of the Garrett Propointer, but just don't have the money to splurge right now.

Does anyone use the Bounty Hunter Pinpointer? Is it worth the price (about $45 at Wally World)? How does it compare with the Harbor Freight pinpointer (I've heard good and bad about it...)?

Thanks to all for your help!!!
 

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Iron Patch

Gold Member
Sep 28, 2007
19,254
8,730
Dirtyville
🥇 Banner finds
3
Detector(s) used
Deus
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
What's happening is your detector is seeing a bad target, but when you break the halo when you dig, your discrimination kicks in and ignores it. A PP will help, but is probably only going to find you a little piece of iron you're missing. If you scoop out the sides of the hole, and dig just a few inches deeper, then scan the dirt (or pinpoint) in zero disc, you'll probably find the target. If you're using high disc. and give up with just scanning the dig hole, that's definitely a combination for failure. (You at least have to be using the pinpoint to have a chance)
 

OP
OP
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MountainFan

Greenie
Jan 24, 2007
18
1
Breaking the halo could be an issue, but I'm running in All-Metal mode to begin with. Don't have anything discriminated out. Right now, yes I'm digging mainly little bits of barbed wire, but I'm trying to dig all repeatable signals to help learn the detector as well as clear some trash targets out. But it seems to disappear sometimes when I dig (either a bad pinpoint with the detector or a "halo" broken).

I was just curious if the BH Pinpointer was worth the money. I know the targets are there, just getting frustrated a bit...
 

wolcottdigger

Sr. Member
Oct 30, 2008
319
0
Wolcott, CT
Detector(s) used
ACE 250, Garrett Pro-Pointer
I have the Pro-Pointer and it is a great pin-pointer but it is on the expensive side.
I have also owned both the Bounty Hunter and the Harbor Freight and in my opinion
the Harbor Freight is better and cheaper. The probe on the Harbor Freight is more
easily broken in my opinion but is also easily fixed with some epoxy.
The Bounty hunter is not worth fifty bucks as far as i'm concerned, save the coins
you dig this year and you will probably have enough to get a Garrett next year.
I love my Pro-Pointers and never go detecting without it.

Joe
 

treasurehound

Bronze Member
Jan 23, 2008
1,500
376
Morristown, Tennessee
🥇 Banner finds
1
Detector(s) used
Minelab GPX 4500,
Minelab Equinox 800,
Garrett AT GOLD with NEL coil,
Garrett Sea Hunter
Primary Interest:
Relic Hunting
The Garrett Propointer is an excellent choice. If you are in a money bind then the Harbor Freight is better than nothing. I use the Harbor Freight myself and it works fine. I am not familiar with the Bounty Hunter. My advice would be to get the Harbor Freight and save for the Garrett Propointer.
 

Iron Patch

Gold Member
Sep 28, 2007
19,254
8,730
Dirtyville
🥇 Banner finds
3
Detector(s) used
Deus
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
MountainFan said:
Breaking the halo could be an issue, but I'm running in All-Metal mode to begin with. Don't have anything discriminated out. Right now, yes I'm digging mainly little bits of barbed wire, but I'm trying to dig all repeatable signals to help learn the detector as well as clear some trash targets out. But it seems to disappear sometimes when I dig (either a bad pinpoint with the detector or a "halo" broken).

I was just curious if the BH Pinpointer was worth the money. I know the targets are there, just getting frustrated a bit...



hmmm.... Hunting with no discrimination it's odd this would be such an issue. One thing to keep in mind is when you are scanning having the detector set with no discrimination is probably "zero disc" opposed to what is likely a true all metal in pinpoint mode. I don't know that particular detector, but is often the case, so that's just something to figure out to let you know if the PP is a step that's needed before declaring a target lost.

The only other thing that comes to mind is the targets being small, likely iron, and they change position which causes your detector to lose them. An ace 250 might not see on edge targets very well.
 

WishfulThinker

Full Member
Jan 10, 2009
161
2
Houston, Texas
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
In the works OK for less than $20 class ... Harbor Freight also has a Centek Gray block style stud-sensor that will ID targets -- about 2 inch range for bar antenna located front of unit. There is also a similar stud sensor at Home Depot (tools section) --- these work ok if using fibre trowell (garden department -- $1 to $2); quick sweep of scoop determines if object is there.
 

slowNsteady

Full Member
Mar 26, 2010
174
1
Broken Arrow, OK
Detector(s) used
Whites Beach Hunter, Fisher 1220 1225 F2 F4, BH Land Star, Garrett Ace 250, Tesoro Vaquero
Hi everyone!
I have a BH pinpointer and I like a few things about it and dislike a few as well. I like the pointed end. It can penetrate soft ground easily and really helps make up for its lack of depth. You can't pry with it, but that's true of most other pinpointers out there. The performance of the unit is actually similiar to most other brands in that price range. Basically around 1" at best. The Harbor frieght is of lesser quality construction, but does get a bit more depth (although I've heard of differences in performance between units). The end of the HF pointer is blunted, so it won't probe in soft soil as easily as the BH. If you plan to get the garrett later, I'd get the Harbor Freight pointer and save the $$'s.
On a side note, a pinpointer will probably help you recover your targets quicker now, but might actually handicap you in the end. You really need to learn your machine so you can pinpoint more accurately. Many veteran hunters swear a pinpointer only slows them down. Just my thoughts....
 

gambler13

Jr. Member
May 27, 2010
66
0
Detector(s) used
MXT Pro, Xterra 705
I agree with the majority. First the garrett pro-pointer is what you'll want "when" you can afford it. For now get the harbor freight pp. The BH pp is terrible, the one I had wouldn't sound off until it was almost in contact with the target.
 

Dwight S

Hero Member
Apr 26, 2010
558
70
NC
Detector(s) used
Garrett AT-Pro & White's TDI & Tesoro Compass uMax
Primary Interest:
Relic Hunting
Get the Garrett Pro-Pointer if you can afford it. If at the moment you are low on funds, get the Harbor Freight Cen-Tech handheld metal detector. The Cen-Tech will do the job until you can do better. Just take some care with it, it isn't the toughest piece you've ever seen, but for $15 it'll do.

HH
 

batcap

Hero Member
Jun 22, 2010
684
131
Baltimore MD
Detector(s) used
AT PRO
I'm on my 2nd Centech pinpointer this year, and may need to get another before the year is out. They definitely have an issue with the red power button and the leads to it.

On the first one the button stopped working completely after a month. I took the button out and twisted the leads together. I'd turn it on by popping in the 9v at the beginning of the hunt. and disconnect at the end. The battery would still last a couple of weeks that way. It was a pain in the butt to always have the thing ON, though. Eventually one of the battery leads broke.

The 2nd one started acting up almost as soon as I got it. Now it's like this:

0) Use big detector to determine if target is still in hole or dirt pile
1) Push down the PP button; listen for the chirp. If no chirp try again.
2) Wave near trowel to be SURE it's on. If not go back to step one.
3) Root around in hole and dirt pile. If no signal retest PP near metal.
4) . . . eventually I find it, after repeatedly checking that the PP is working.

In the end it's a LOT easier to use the so-called detuning technique with the Ace 250.
Wherever you hit the pinpoint button on the Ace, the ground is read as null(no tone). So, if you are partially over the target, off to the side a bit, you are removing much of the target's signal, meaning the detector will sound off in a much smaller area around the center notch of the loop. I think there's a video of this on YouTube. It's easier to demonstrate than it is to describe.
 

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