A couple of beginner questions....

[Cranman]

I got myself a detector and tried a few spots I felt like may have some old coins...and actually found a few coins although none were old. In the process I realized this will take practice, patience and time to get "good" at detecting. A few questions:

I am trying to figure out what a "good" signal is, and when it's worthwhile to dig. I have a Whites Prizm 4 and several times I thought I had a good spot/signal, only to dig and the signal goes away or moves, or I just don't see anything. At the end I only dug strong repeatable signals but I wonder if I'm missing the deeper targets.

How do you dig a hole seems like a silly question, but I started digging like a 6in plug and setting it to the side, then see if the signal is in the hole or plug, then dig wherever the signal is. But several targets turned out to be really close to the surface, and it's hard to dig those without destroying the grass. How do you do it?

If you're in a area with alot of trash, how do you approach it? I was at a older house in the woods that burned down long ago, and there's trash (bottles, metal scrap, old toys, etc) all around the place. Strangely enough the first signal I dug was a clad penny, but after that there was so many signals for little scrap trash, that I pretty much quit. I guess this goes with the territory, but what would you do?

Thanks for any advice. Although I know I have alot to learn, I do have about 10 coins dug already, maybe even as many coins as other metal trash, so I can see if I get better and get a better spot there should be some good treasures one day!

[mlayers]

it is going to take you time to learn wlhat your machine is telling you. Lissen to each signal and after you dig it to see what it is. But remember some gold rings will sound like a pull tab. So I have learn to dig pull tabs for the gold. Keep all of your trah that you dig and carry it out with you. For the older coins you may have to clear out all the trash to find the older coins as the trash may be above the coin.

On digging a hole or plug depends on where I am at. I do a horse shoe type aound 6 or 8 inche wide. Pull the plug back and check the hole. If you dig a 6 inch plug put everything ona piece of cloth and the loose dirt also. then when you find your target you can dump everything back into your hole and put the plug back in and press it down good and it will look like you was never there. I out in the woods or feild I use a 8 inch spade and cut out my plug and then fill it back in after I get my target.......Matt

[Roland58]

If you are using a DD coil, be sure and scan your signal on both the x and y axis (90 degrees to each other, form and "X"). Often times, a large chunk of iron in the near proximity to a good signal will throw your signal location and reading off a bit.....doing the "X" swing will help alleviate that. As far as the digging of a plug, mlayers had the good words on that. Personally, I use a horticultural knife with a wide 10" blade, it does take longer to cut a plug that using mlayer's method, but, it makes it easier and less messy to remove a shallow target (for me).

Don't forget to scan the hole after you have removed your intended target, you may be surprised at how many times there will be something else in the hole. As already stated, be sure to remove anything you dig up....trash or not, it is just the right thing to do!

A "good signal" is most any signal that remains constant from both directions, a questionable signal will probably give varying readings. You can often determine objects close to the surface by how 'abrupt' the signal is when you pass over it. By that, I mean a deeper signal will be broader and weaker, whereas, the shallow target will be sharp, narrow and louder. Of course, this depends a LOT on the detector you are using and I am not familiar with the Prizm, so, take all this for what it is costing you, .

Happy Hunting.....stick with it, do it for the fun and the thrill of significant finds will come.

[Michigan Badger]

The posters mentioned many of the most important things.

Of all the suggestions the most important is location. You can't dig what isn't there.

My experience over 40 years is the detector cost or brand isn't the big deal. Most any decent major brand machine that can find pennies 4 inches deep will do. A very expensive detector can sometimes be an advantage but not as often as one might think.

Find good sites and hunt slowly. Listen for those very weak but consistent signals. Often the best old coins are barely audible. I used to set up a chalk line and walk it when I found an area that had some good targets. The line was to make sure I totally covered the area. I'd walk it one side and then come back on the other side...then I'd move the line a couple feet over and repeat. I first read about this method back in the 70's and I used it over many years (it works).

[Cranman]

Thanks for the advice guys, I look forward to getting back out there. My in-laws live in a old school house they converted to a home that I think dates back to the 30's or 40's, although I know it's been detected at least once before. Maybe there is something left for me!

[goldentruth]

Hello fellow detecting hunter: I have a tip I developed myself to save time on a dig.
I went down to Lowes building materials & Home Depot. For about 10 bucks I picked up a "Flat-Disk"-magnet on a 4 foot wood pole. I used to use it after Plaster Lathing to pick up all the lath nails & wire pcs.
I found when I get a hit on a target and dig a 5 to 8 inch wide hole, I shovel the dirt in a circle around the dug hole, Now I take the Magnet on this pole and rub it thru the dirt and Wa-La, I find a quick nail from the 1800's or wire, sometimes a old bolt. Many times it saves me time & having to bend down on my knees.
It helps me and I hope it helps you. (Don From French Gulch, Northern California USA.

[Sandman]

Hello fellow detecting hunter: I have a tip I developed myself to save time on a dig.
I went down to Lowes building materials & Home Depot. For about 10 bucks I picked up a "Flat-Disk"-magnet on a 4 foot wood pole. I used to use it after Plaster Lathing to pick up all the lath nails & wire pcs.
I found when I get a hit on a target and dig a 5 to 8 inch wide hole, I shovel the dirt in a circle around the dug hole, Now I take the Magnet on this pole and rub it thru the dirt and Wa-La, I find a quick nail from the 1800's or wire, sometimes a old bolt. Many times it saves me time & having to bend down on my knees.
It helps me and I hope it helps you. (Don From French Gulch, Northern California USA.

Methods like this digging a 5 to 8 inch wide hole are hard to hide if your in a park. It is OK if your in the woods. Things like this are what gives detectorist a bad name. Being seen with a shovel in a park is reason to get shot.

[Mzjavert]

The times where I've totally lost a signal when I cut a plug were mostly areas of high decay. Not sure why that is.

I've only lost a couple of signals this year. Most of the time it's been something small and light that was jumping through the wood shavings they put on tot lots. I did have one signal that was "funny" and after I'd dug past the plug, waved those samples over the coil, the signal was gone. I rechecked everything and found one small gold ring.

Listen, more than look at the screen, the sounds will tell you more and more as you go along.

[goldentruth]

I think you got your wires crossed/misunderstood.
I was not talking about tearing a search site where you would get kicked out or destroying property.
However and which you dig carefully as like in grass where you cut & pull out a plug. I am just saying you can use a magnet when you use a plastic scoop to classify material and to check your finds.
I have saved time where a staple, nail, bolt, & any iron can be quickly found out.
Now if Brass or alum. It's is a diffrerent story where you have to visually check.
I happen to search for placer gold and I run into artifacts some times on BLM land, here we are allowed to search on these Beau of Land Management areas which are not private property.
A lot of people do not know about how magnets help, I never heard of it and I tied it and it helps, I thought that was my tip but I did have one beach comber post he uses one.
I do metal detect at any beaches as magnets are of good use there.
Like I said, where I live in a historic Gold Rush Field area, here is in the sticks and covering a hole here does not have to be pretty just filled. Thanks for the comment, just trying to help, Peace to you Mr. beginner

[kayden]

I got myself a detector and tried a few spots I felt like may have some old coins...and actually found a few coins although none were old. In the process I realized this will take practice, patience and time to get "good" at detecting. A few questions:

I am trying to figure out what a "good" signal is, and when it's worthwhile to dig. I have a Whites Prizm 4 and several times I thought I had a good spot/signal, only to dig and the signal goes away or moves, or I just don't see anything. At the end I only dug strong repeatable signals but I wonder if I'm missing the deeper targets.

How do you dig a hole seems like a silly question, but I started digging like a 6in plug and setting it to the side, then see if the signal is in the hole or plug, then dig wherever the signal is. But several targets turned out to be really close to the surface, and it's hard to dig those without destroying the grass. How do you do it?

If you're in a area with alot of trash, how do you approach it? I was at a older house in the woods that burned down long ago, and there's trash (bottles, metal scrap, old toys, etc) all around the place. Strangely enough the first signal I dug was a clad penny, but after that there was so many signals for little scrap trash, that I pretty much quit. I guess this goes with the territory, but what would you do?

Thanks for any advice. Although I know I have alot to learn, I do have about 10 coins dug already, maybe even as many coins as other metal trash, so I can see if I get better and get a better spot there should be some good treasures one day!

If it says 6 inches & trash .....I still dig ....you might be shocked what it really is.....This was the
greatest advise i learned on this site!

[luvsdux]

Shallow targets can be popped up with a screwdriver leaving little or no sign of disturbance in the grass. I prefer to dig a horseshoe shaped plug leaving a hinge. Hopefully this will help keep a mower from pulling the plug back out of the ground. If you find you need to make larger holes than necessary to find your target, the next best accessory for locating the target is a hand held pinpointer such as the Garrett Pro Pointer which, although spendy, is a tool well worth the price in my opinion.
luvsdux