Broke my detector today

[tanz 82]

Can this be fixed by myself ?? Slipped on a rock and it snapped right in half

 

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[kcm]

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-2-I...=UTF8&qid=1469581298&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberfix

FiberFix tape - it comes in 1", 2" and 4". You can order it online or buy it in probably any hardware store around. I think I saw some recently in a small ACE Hardware store up here, but not certain - wasn't looking for that at the time. You would probably want the 1" wide wrap.

Their website is FiberFix ? Now you can fix anything!

 

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[Peyton Manning]

would that work on broken bones?

 

[eastcoastdetectorist]

wow

 

[Back-of-the-boat]

Have you checked to see how much a new shaft would cost?I know they make shafts for different brands maybe you can find an aftermarket shaft.I can't remember where I seen them but they had straight shafts made from composite.Maybe a vendor on here or Google metal detector shafts they had a DIY for shafts.

 

[clv]

For that ridged plastic use testers model cement it works great on that stuff.
much better than pop-sickle sticks and duck tape, Well you can use those to hold it together until the glue drys.

epoxy wont make a permanent bond to most plastics.
That's why we use plastic cups to mix epoxy in, after it drys in the cup it will peal out and then you can use the cup to mix another batch.

 

[kcm]

would that work on broken bones?

Well, if you don't mind lumps on your skeleton.

 

[digger27]

For that ridged plastic use testers model cement it works great on that stuff.
much better than pop-sickle sticks and duck tape, Well you can use those to hold it together until the glue drys.

epoxy wont make a permanent bond to most plastics.
That's why we use plastic cups to mix epoxy in, after it drys in the cup it will peal out and then you can use the cup to mix another batch.

The correct epoxy putty used to bond the chosen surfaces sure will.
There are all different formulas, wood, plastic, metal epoxies...the right tool for the right job.
At this moment I am using 2 coils on my F70 that were sent to me by a very fantastically great member on another forum for free...a 5" DD and a large F75 DD coil.
He sold his F75 with another better coil on it so he didn't need these anymore and these were both totally wrecked because he used them to scrape the rock and ice covered beaches in New England...like really hardcore hunting.
Chipped, cracked and broken, he just got some JB Weld and coated the bottom of each coil when he knocked off a piece.
They both look horrible, especially the little sniper white one with the grey junk smeared all over and covering the bottom...but they both still work perfectly fine and I have used them for almost 3 years now with no problems.


My first experience using JB Weld was back in high school in the early 70's.
Just the regular stuff with two tubes on the card you mix together and apply.
I had a beater 1965 Chevy Impala and I broke the window crank in half...probably during the winter when the window was frozen shut.
I actually needed that window to work for sure in the summer so I looked into buying a new handle at the dealership, it was like some ungodly expensive price they quoted me at the time.
Instead I mixed up some of that stuff, bonded it back together, let it set and by the time I got rid of that car almost everything else broke or fell off that thing but that crank handle stayed together forever more.
I didn't think it would actually work but I was super surprised on how great it did.
Ironically, in my travels hunting parks in the last few years I have dug up at least 2 or 3 complete window cranks so, weird.

Epoxy putty is the same but easier to work with for this application or that tape stuff should probably work well, also.
Looks like that might be pot metal in the pic, even if it is plastic just pick the right product and save some big bucks over factory repair costs and yes...just get back out there swinging.

Also, watch your step you clumsy guy you.

 

[Normsel]

I am not sure what kind of polymer is used to make the detector but make sure what ever you use to bond it back together is compatible with your detectors plastic. There are tons of bonding products out there but not all are compatible. Whatever you find don't be stingy with it

 

[Normsel]

I agree about Whites charges. I sent my detector to Whites repair station in VA and they fixed it but in less than 2 days it quit again. I sent it to their home office and they charged me $110 to repair it less than a week later so they for sure do not guarantee their warranty work. That is the last Whites detector I will ever buy... I went to Minelab better detector and not so good customer service but I knew that when I bought it.

 

[BryanM362]

My opinion is that epoxy alone will not work as a permanent fix. I suggest that you find a metal tube that will fit the inner diameter of the broken tube. Cut about a 2 - 3 inch section, of the smaller tube, and slide it inside the two broken halves. The tighter the fit the better. Then I would drill 2 small holes and put 2 small screws in each half (through the orignial tube and the sleeve). Having it welded may be another option, but I would still put the small sleeve inside to brdige the break. If you can't find the right size smaller tube, you can cut a "slit" in a larger tube and crimp/collapse it to fit.

 

[kcm]

The correct epoxy putty used to bond the chosen surfaces sure will.
There are all different formulas, wood, plastic, metal epoxies...the right tool for the right job.
At this moment I am using 2 coils on my F70 that were sent to me by a very fantastically great member on another forum for free...a 5" DD and a large F75 DD coil.
He sold his F75 with another better coil on it so he didn't need these anymore and these were both totally wrecked because he used them to scrape the rock and ice covered beaches in New England...like really hardcore hunting.
Chipped, cracked and broken, he just got some JB Weld and coated the bottom of each coil when he knocked off a piece.
They both look horrible, especially the little sniper white one with the grey junk smeared all over and covering the bottom...but they both still work perfectly fine and I have used them for almost 3 years now with no problems.


My first experience using JB Weld was back in high school in the early 70's.
Just the regular stuff with two tubes on the card you mix together and apply.
I had a beater 1965 Chevy Impala and I broke the window crank in half...probably during the winter when the window was frozen shut.
I actually needed that window to work for sure in the summer so I looked into buying a new handle at the dealership, it was like some ungodly expensive price they quoted me at the time.
Instead I mixed up some of that stuff, bonded it back together, let it set and by the time I got rid of that car almost everything else broke or fell off that thing but that crank handle stayed together forever more.
I didn't think it would actually work but I was super surprised on how great it did.
Ironically, in my travels hunting parks in the last few years I have dug up at least 2 or 3 complete window cranks so, weird.

Epoxy putty is the same but easier to work with for this application or that tape stuff should probably work well, also.
Looks like that might be pot metal in the pic, even if it is plastic just pick the right product and save some big bucks over factory repair costs and yes...just get back out there swinging.

Also, watch your step you clumsy guy you.

There's a big difference between fixing coils and fixing the shaft, especially the part of the shaft that broke. Firstly, there are two holes at the break; one facing up and another facing down. Wires run through each hole. But the MAIN reason epoxy won't last is that when he's out again, swinging the detector, there will be MANY times when his coil will hit an object; a tree truck, rock, the ground, itself.... Every time that happens, it will put a torque load (twisting load) on the shaft. The shaft tube is smooth, so it will break away from ANY form of adhesive before too long - even the fiber patch I recommended. It will take more steps than that to make a permanent fix that is AT LEAST as strong as the original shaft.

Also, remember the bump-and-go weed eaters? Remember how you would have to tap the cutterhead on the ground to advance the string? Using that same motion (only not so hard), puts tremendous forces on that particular part of the shaft. This is due to leverage. A slight bit of pressure on the ground translates into a large pressure at the upper shaft, provided that the upper shaft is somehow supported; held in the hands of the user, leaning against a tree, or maybe leaning against the wall inside your home.

The "best" thing he could do is to find a used upper shaft from an old or non-working unit that will fit the rest of his machine, or to buy a new, replacement upper shaft assembly, minus the controls....assuming this is even possible.

Epoxies are GREAT for their intended purposes, but there are many times I've run across situations that were simply too much for them. So they "do" have their limits.

 

[RobRieman]

(Quote deleted by mod for rule violation by Baker)

White's will NOT fix it for free. It is not a manufacture defect, he fell and broke the shaft in two. They also do NOT fix any problems you have for FREE. If you have a legitimate problem that is covered under warranty they will fix it at no cost (sometimes you still have to pay shipping one way, sometimes you don't depending on who you talk to and what mood they are in). White's does not have a blanket lifetime warranty on any item the sell.

 

[ecmjamsit]

I looked at my Whites GMT. It looks to be the same construction. I would try to find that part. Looks to be aluminum. I could fix it my self as I was trained by the Air Force as a electronics countermeasures technician. The broken aluminum rod needs to be welded. Another option would be a two part epoxy with a carbon fiber pipe inserted as a splice. Still the best option is a new rod. See if Whites will sell you the part, to save on labor. here is a link to show the wires...

White's Goldmaster GMT Rebuild by Steve Herschbach

Or see if somebody on Whites Electronics Facebook page can help.

https://www.facebook.com/whiteselectronics/?fref=ts

Or call Whites parts...

http://www.whiteselectronics.com/support/service/parts

 

[BryanM362]

There's a big difference between fixing coils and fixing the shaft, especially the part of the shaft that broke. Firstly, there are two holes at the break; one facing up and another facing down. Wires run through each hole. But the MAIN reason epoxy won't last is that when he's out again, swinging the detector, there will be MANY times when his coil will hit an object; a tree truck, rock, the ground, itself.... Every time that happens, it will put a torque load (twisting load) on the shaft. The shaft tube is smooth, so it will break away from ANY form of adhesive before too long - even the fiber patch I recommended. It will take more steps than that to make a permanent fix that is AT LEAST as strong as the original shaft.

Also, remember the bump-and-go weed eaters? Remember how you would have to tap the cutterhead on the ground to advance the string? Using that same motion (only not so hard), puts tremendous forces on that particular part of the shaft. This is due to leverage. A slight bit of pressure on the ground translates into a large pressure at the upper shaft, provided that the upper shaft is somehow supported; held in the hands of the user, leaning against a tree, or maybe leaning against the wall inside your home.

The "best" thing he could do is to find a used upper shaft from an old or non-working unit that will fit the rest of his machine, or to buy a new, replacement upper shaft assembly, minus the controls....assuming this is even possible.

Epoxies are GREAT for their intended purposes, but there are many times I've run across situations that were simply too much for them. So they "do" have their limits.

Exactly, an epoxy will not take that torque and stress. At least not for very long. If you are intent on fixing it yourself, see my earlier post about fitting a sleeve inside the existing tube. If not, I'd buy a new shaft.

 

[RustyGold]

My opinion is that epoxy alone will not work as a permanent fix. I suggest that you find a metal tube that will fit the inner diameter of the broken tube. Cut about a 2 - 3 inch section, of the smaller tube, and slide it inside the two broken halves. The tighter the fit the better. Then I would drill 2 small holes and put 2 small screws in each half (through the orignial tube and the sleeve). Having it welded may be another option, but I would still put the small sleeve inside to brdige the break. If you can't find the right size smaller tube, you can cut a "slit" in a larger tube and crimp/collapse it to fit.

Plus 1 on this. It's what I'd do.
Best of luck!

 

[BigWaveDave]

(Quote deleted by mod for rule violation)

Hi Ron....FYI, I typed in BigBoysHobbies, tried to put a link, and it led to a Kellyco link...don't know how that happened...

 

[digger27]

Exactly, an epoxy will not take that torque and stress. At least not for very long. If you are intent on fixing it yourself, see my earlier post about fitting a sleeve inside the existing tube. If not, I'd buy a new shaft.

Epoxy will take the torque and stress from my experience with this stuff many times under different situations so I gotta disagree.
JB Weld, anyway...when it sets it thinks it is steel or a steel like substance.
Plus, if you notice the part that is broken is just the trigger section, the head unit is supported by its own metal plate.
Unless he is going to be standing on that trigger don't think there is going to be any problem.

 

[clv]

Have you tried to order the replacement parts from White's?

 

[tanz 82]

Have you tried to order the replacement parts from White's?

Whites told me it would have to be fixed by them because of where the break is . I tried in weld steel epoxy it didn't work so now I'll try finding a section of tubing that could fit within the broken shaft then weld it

 

[BryanM362]

Epoxy will take the torque and stress from my experience with this stuff many times under different situations so I gotta disagree.
JB Weld, anyway...when it sets it thinks it is steel or a steel like substance.
Plus, if you notice the part that is broken is just the trigger section, the head unit is supported by its own metal plate.
Unless he is going to be standing on that trigger don't think there is going to be any problem.

The broken part is attached to the trigger mechanism, but the part that broke is the part of the shaft that leads to, and supports the coil, so it will have a lot of torque on it as the detector is swung and bumped into things.

JB Weld may work (though I am skeptical), just saying if it were me, and I wanted a permanent fix, I'd use the inner sleeve, and/or a weld.