Shovel Design for the Grass

[The Beep Goes On]

Digging in the grass without leaving a trace, or much of one, takes some practice. Even then, depending on the grass type, density, soil type, moisture content, etc., making a nice plug can be difficult and sometimes impossible. Sometimes putting the dirt back nicely is all you can do. Always use the best method and tool available, especially in manicured lawns.

No single digging implement can cover all the bases. With that said, we all have fields filled with pull-tabs with gold potentially lurking therein. It would be nice if there was something that could make a decent plug (depending on conditions) and excavate most of the hole with one action. Then you would just have to kneel down, possibly with pinpointer, and find/extricate the target.

I've thought about a shovel like this for some time. The field I'm hitting (again) has the old ring pulls - about 1/3 with beaver tails that I can usually spot. But, the ring pulls themselves have to be dug because they are right in the gold ring range. They are about 4.5" down so I use depth to discriminate as well.

I want to dig a lot of them in a shorter period of time without as much effort - something we all would like, no doubt.

I have no idea if this would work in the field - it might even exist now - I don't know. Basic principle is shovel with built-in U-Plug Cutter. Have thought of various design enhancements, etc., but this is the basic idea. I thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone has seen something like this or has additional ideas.



HH!
Beep

 

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[Terry Soloman]

Sampson T-handle 31" Ground Shark. Over and out!

 

[The Beep Goes On]

Sampson T-handle 31" Ground Shark. Over and out!

Thanks Terry!

I have a Ground Shark, not quite what I'm looking for.

 

[Terry Soloman]

Thanks Terry!

I have a Ground Shark, not quite what I'm looking for.

Check out this guy's Grass Shovel.

 

[digger460]

Sampson T-handle 31" Ground Shark. Over and out!

Hey Terry, That's what I use to. My technique is to drive that puppy in, and before I pry back on it, I'll put pressure on the grass as I'm prying back on the plug, and it forms a perfect plug that I can drop right back in the hole like a puzzle piece.

Worked well, until I was hunting a farm, and went back the next weekend, and all the plugs were brown. To dry?

 

[The Beep Goes On]

For the size plugs the guy in the video is digging, that might be appropriate, but, as 460 says, the proof is when you go back and check your work. If it's too dry I just hunt elsewhere, for instance. And there's the hinge/no-hinge debate and a bunch of other nuances discussed, etc. It comes down to a lot of variables. Most of the fields I hunt are pretty torn up by the players - they do more damage than I ever could.

For the shovel - the goal is ONE Plunge and ONE Pry - not three plunges and one pry, for instance, if you were making all three sides of the plug with a flat shovel.

 

[digger460]

Your design would probably work, but like you said if it's to dry, oops

 

[digger460]

That shovel works good in the vid, but does the hole need to be that wide in the first place?

 

[The Beep Goes On]

That shovel works good in the vid, but does the hole need to be that wide in the first place?

The size of the plug is usually determined by the conditions. Sometimes small plugs work - sometimes small plugs fall apart and you need to make bigger ones. Whatever is best for the grass. Other times no plug is needed, just flip it out with your digger/knife/probe.

If it's deep, start with a bigger plug.

One general rule is to try to keep part of the root system attached - that's why you cut three sides and try to keep it together. Pushing down on the plug with your palm while prying it out can hold it together to some degree if the soil/grass is loose.

 

[Terry Soloman]

Hey Terry, That's what I use to. My technique is to drive that puppy in, and before I pry back on it, I'll put pressure on the grass as I'm prying back on the plug, and it forms a perfect plug that I can drop right back in the hole like a puzzle piece.

Worked well, until I was hunting a farm, and went back the next weekend, and all the plugs were brown. To dry?

Quart spray bottle with water and liquid Miracle-Grow (two-Tbsp), Spray the hole and the bottom of the plug twice each, replace as normal.

 

[Terry Soloman]

No one should be using a shovel - of any size - in a public park. That is what hand diggers are for. Most targets can be retrieved just by putting the nose of your hand digger in 5" and lifting. Only newbie's, fat guys that don't want to or can't take a knee, and some older disabled diggers are using shovels in grassy parks

 

[The Beep Goes On]

All parks are different, plus there are countless areas that have "grass" - each location has specific needs (re-read op). This design is not all-encompassing. As to your description of who may want to use something similar - grow up. Nothing wrong with alternatives or trying to think of something different.

 

[DiggerGal]

I love your idea! I believe that Anderson is unveiling a plug cutter that once inserted, you twist and pull. But I like your blue prints much better!

 

[The Beep Goes On]

I love your idea! I believe that Anderson is unveiling a plug cutter that once inserted, you twist and pull. But I like your blue prints much better!

Thanks DiggerGal!! I've seen similar to your pic - more upper body work which I was (selfishly) trying to minimize with a stand up design ;-) You have to kneel, of course, but most of the work would be done, and the grass would be more likely to live as compared to the cylindrical plug types.

 

[digger460]

The size of the plug is usually determined by the conditions. Sometimes small plugs work - sometimes small plugs fall apart and you need to make bigger ones. Whatever is best for the grass. Other times no plug is needed, just flip it out with your digger/knife/probe.

If it's deep, start with a bigger plug.

One general rule is to try to keep part of the root system attached - that's why you cut three sides and try to keep it together. Pushing down on the plug with your palm while prying it out can hold it together to some degree if the soil/grass is loose.

Agreed I guess in my situation, I've had luck with limited dead plugs because the soil just about everywhere here is a 50/50 black dirt/sand mix. It's pretty much loose soil/grass.

Back to your OP, I like the fact your thinking out of the box. I get your thinking, and I'll be first in line if it make's our life easier. And my back will be forever greatful

 

[Deft Tones]

Predator Raven is very similar to your design.

Up to 5 or 6 inch depth targets I use it almost exactly as you describe. One plunge beyond the target depth, slight wiggle side to side, lift soil, recover, tamp.

It helps to pinpoint the target exactly so I can get the blade within an inch of the target. The goal is to have the target appear just beyond the side of the raised soil making for fast easy recovery.

Anyway, the raven is very close to what you've designed.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

Thanks 460!! Much appreciated!! Doubt I'd ever manufacturer it...too few detectorists in the market to make it worth it, imo. Might talk to a welder/designer and see what they say - was thinking of starting with a 4" to 6" steel pipe cut in half with the sides extended and you go from there. Would make it with flowing lines and curves for support - lots of pressure on the tips of the U-Plug cutter portion. Scalloped, sharp edges on the cutter/blade.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

Predator Raven is very similar to your design.

Up to 5 or 6 inch depth targets I use it almost exactly as you describe. One plunge beyond the target depth, slight wiggle side to side, lift soil, recover, tamp.

It helps to pinpoint the target exactly so I can get the blade within an inch of the target. The goal is to have the target appear just beyond the side of the raised soil making for fast easy recovery.

Anyway, the raven is very close to what you've designed.

Thanks Deft Tones - that's a nice blade. I think I have at least three Predators, but not the Raven. I know what you mean as far as the ability to use such a blade to pop the plug and keep it together - I have too many areas where that just doesn't happen. Can't beat the Predator quality and the designs are top notch.

This does bring up something that came to mind. I (we) have seen people with diggers do a terrible job and people with shovels do a great job, and the other way around as well. It's a combination of variables that determine how "well" one digs in the grass.

- The grass/soil conditions
- The inherent effectiveness of the tool used to dig
- The operator's skill/experience with said tool
- The operator's pinpointing skills
- The technique employed with said tool
- The amount of effort applied in covering your tracks

 

[The Beep Goes On]

One last piece not included in the drawing:

The problem with the physics of this blade is the large (long) blade edge, or surface area. This will make it harder to push into the ground.

It would have to have a rather large platform for your foot - you could then do a "gravity plunge" by standing on the platform and using your weight - a lot less effort than trying to force it with your hands and a little foot step.

 

[soxfan401]

Why reinvent the wheel?

Wouldn't repurposing something already commercially available be a solution to this? Something like a hole cutter for a golf course use would be perfect to dig a nice round plug at a decent depth and not leave any major traces. From the looks of them, they might even cut through some roots and are a stand up use design.

Just a thought, but I am new to detecting so some of the more experienced folks might have a better idea.