Any advice on MD trashy area infested with pull tabs and Corona bottles on the side o

[Truth]

I'll be using the F75 LTD. Any tricks of the trade to find gold?
Or would the ATP had a little better edge?

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[cudamark]

What a "remote PP switch"?


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It's a modification to an Excalibur to allow the user to easily switch from Pin Point (all metal) to discrimination without having to reach to the control pod and turning a knob. It speeds up the determination of good vs. bad target. It's a switch mounted to the handle that you can easily trigger back and forth to eliminate iron targets.

 

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[cudamark]

I'll be using the F75 LTD. Any tricks of the trade to find gold?
Or would the ATP had a little better edge?

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The Minelab E-trac and CTX can I.D. a bottle cap pretty well. I'm able to ignore at least 95% of them by the number on the screen. You will still dig a few.....especially the ones wrapped in foil......but, not too many. As for pull tabs, I don't know any way around them of you want the gold in that range.

 

[bigscoop]

What a "remote PP switch"?


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Cuda already answered that, and when hunting trashy areas PP can really help in the separation of targets because the field becomes narrower and unlike Disc mode there is no recovery speed issue. Why is this important? In Disc mode this low recovery speed can actually mask returns, those returns often getting lost in the recovery process. In PP mode this can't happen, the machine responding instantly to every individual target in its path. So when in disc mode, and when targets are close together, this can often cause those chirps, barks, and broken returns, etc. the change in alloy, shape, size, only being recognized for a swift instant, or only partially, these returns often sounding like a continuous return. But in PP mode you'll often be able to distinguish each individual target, or their edges. In PP mode alloy type isn't a deciding issue, whereas in disc mode, it can be and often is, another reason why bottle caps, per example, often return those broken tones, this same thing often being true of junk jewelry as the processor tries to alert the hunter to the various alloy types within. But in PP mode the processor doesn't care what the alloy is, a bottle cap or piece of junk jewelry simply returning one identifiable tone. "Everything is a trade-off" but even those perceived losses in trade-offs can be advantageous to us once we understand them and we can figure out how to turn those losses into gains.

 

[digger27]

I hunt in exactly the kind of sites you describe, I hate digging trash but I love to find gold.
I do it this way and have been for the last few years.
I have found 35 gold targets in the 6.5 years I have been in the hobby, some out in the open but most in the trashiest sites I can possibly find because where most people hang out is where you have the best chance to find jewelry.
Basketball and volleyball court perimeters, picnic areas with tables and next to those pavilions, new parks with some trash and older parks with tons of trash...that is where I prefer to hunt more than any others.

Using my Fishers, and my F70 which is going to act like your F75 in most ways, I use all kinds of coils to find gold.
The snipers are the easiest and best of course but I have done it with the big DD coil too...plus a concentric.

I assume you are using a DD coil.
If you rim these things you can avoid digging about 90-95% of these things because you can tell what they are most of the time.
Get a signal, center it under your coil, use quick short side to side swipes keeping the target in the center while pulling back the coil.
When the front of the coil passes over the target and drops out that is one of the easiest ways I have found to pinpoint a target before I dig because at that drop out point the target should be just in front, just behind or just under the front rim of that coil.
Something else happens over bottle caps however...just before the signal drops out there will also be a drop in the numbers and he tones from that usual dime or quarter area lower.
On older steel caps they will drop down to iron or close, on the newer ones they might not drop that far but there usually is a drop....coins and other good targets don't do this, they stay consistent till the signal goes away.
Not all caps will act like this, the old steel ones that are flattened, shallow and laying perpendicular to the surface usually act like coins and might not drop, for one reason or another the newer ones can stay solid like coins too but you can eliminate 90-95% of them this way and just move on...quite a difference when you hunt sites infested with these things.
If you are truly looking for just gold these shouldn't matter anyway because unless you come across something good and huge like a $20 gold coin or something large and high karat gold usually won't come in that high anyway.


As far as those tabs of all kinds they can be solid too but again, for me, many usually aren't and can tell me in some way they are junk like a little too much jumping in the numbers and tones or turning and hitting them from 90 degrees the numbers change on both the first pass and the backswing.
Many could be solid too and right smack dab in the gold range so those you must dig but the jumpy ones I quit digging long ago.

The good thing is all gold I have found has always been solid and repeating from two directions in both good soil and bad and in open trash free sites or insane trash infested ones.
All of my gold has been at depths if 5" or less so real deep ones can act different but I don't worry about that.
That is usually what I dig nowadays those solid signals wherever they come in but the rest I rarely do except under special circumstances.
Can I miss gold doing this high percentage method...sure, but since I started doing it this way I cut out 80-90% of all the volume of trash I used to dig in my early days and found much higher volume of good targets after I started doing it including gold.
I won't dig everything to find that metal or anything else and I would just give up the hobby if I was forced to do that but luckily nobody is.
I am not saying you should do it this way or anybody else, if you want to dig a ton of trash more power to you...but I just can't/won't anymore so I changed.

This is an 8.8 gram large 14k religious pendant that is so big and blingy my wife doesn't want it....which shocked me.



It was found in an old park where for the last 90 years evidently everyone that came into this park forgot what a trash can is or how to use it.
This area had to be an area where people sat and hung out for decades from the huge amount of pop tops of all kinds, screw on tops, foil, can slaw and both beaver tail and sta tabs that were here from shallow down to all depths.
In this site I avoided most of that junk and still dug old wheaties and lots of modern zinc and high tone coins.
On one hunt I was still avoiding most but came across a solid signal that was a 41, exactly the same as a million beaver tail tabs in this park and the same as about 10 in this area I left in the dirt but this one sounded solid, the numbers stayed pretty stable and in a range if about 2-3 and jumped no further and acted the same when I turned and scanned it from 90 degrees.
It was no tab.
Most everything is jumpy in my difficult dirt especially as you get deeper at as little as 3" in depth but even though this was 3-4" it was solid, I count on gold acting this way and thank goodness for me it always has, so far.
In my trash pouch I had a few beaver tails but most I let lay there...but not this one.
Probably sold for $500+ when it was new and I still have it because it is too nice to melt.

I have many more experiences that are exactly the same.
This 22k ring was found in a cold January after I had been stuck in the house for weeks due to winter, the ground was still frozen most everywhere but I found a sunny area where the first few inches were defrosted.
I was digging every solid signal I came across just to dig anything that day, even trash that even though semi solid I pretty much knew was trash but I was still avoiding the real jumpy stuff and everything deeper than 2-3" because it was still frozen.
Then another 41 high tab signal.
Right near the 3" depth limit according to my detector but it was solid so I had to go after it frozen soil or not.
Again...not a tab.
And there are many more examples just like these two in my career.



Another reason I love going into these high trash areas is because so many avoid them.
For those that have the patience to learn a few new skills, the control to not worry missing something here and there and the knowledge that even if you do there will always be another day and another hunt this method might work as it does for me.

 

[bigscoop]

digger27, that's a pretty good writeup. For me, with the Excal, instead of seeing the fall off, I can "hear it" in the leading edges or trailing edges, a type of flatness that's hard to describe. As you say, coins, denser and consistent metals, they would generally do this unless sitting at an extreme angle or obstructed/masked in some way. This is why I'll often hunt extremely trashy areas in silent disc mode, so I can hear/isolate those leading edges better.

 

[pinenut]

got Corona caps..?

..easy. Run a Tesoro Bandido or Outlaw with the 5.75" concentric. Corona caps disc out before nickels. If not completely gone, they just click. Bottlecap problem solved! Sorry, you still dig the tabs if you want those nickels.
Using a DD coil? Good luck, my friends; try a small concentric.

 

[signal_line]

Didn't read the whole thread so pardon me if this is a repeat.

Trashy areas require much higher attention level. This is tiring and after a while the tones start to fade away from your hearing. So it takes time to build up your ear muscles.

But in the mean time, try to work the areas just where the trash starts to thin out.

 

[Truth]

I hunt in exactly the kind of sites you describe, I hate digging trash but I love to find gold.
I do it this way and have been for the last few years.
I have found 35 gold targets in the 6.5 years I have been in the hobby, some out in the open but most in the trashiest sites I can possibly find because where most people hang out is where you have the best chance to find jewelry.
Basketball and volleyball court perimeters, picnic areas with tables and next to those pavilions, new parks with some trash and older parks with tons of trash...that is where I prefer to hunt more than any others.

Using my Fishers, and my F70 which is going to act like your F75 in most ways, I use all kinds of coils to find gold.
The snipers are the easiest and best of course but I have done it with the big DD coil too...plus a concentric.

I assume you are using a DD coil.
If you rim these things you can avoid digging about 90-95% of these things because you can tell what they are most of the time.
Get a signal, center it under your coil, use quick short side to side swipes keeping the target in the center while pulling back the coil.
When the front of the coil passes over the target and drops out that is one of the easiest ways I have found to pinpoint a target before I dig because at that drop out point the target should be just in front, just behind or just under the front rim of that coil.
Something else happens over bottle caps however...just before the signal drops out there will also be a drop in the numbers and he tones from that usual dime or quarter area lower.
On older steel caps they will drop down to iron or close, on the newer ones they might not drop that far but there usually is a drop....coins and other good targets don't do this, they stay consistent till the signal goes away.
Not all caps will act like this, the old steel ones that are flattened, shallow and laying perpendicular to the surface usually act like coins and might not drop, for one reason or another the newer ones can stay solid like coins too but you can eliminate 90-95% of them this way and just move on...quite a difference when you hunt sites infested with these things.
If you are truly looking for just gold these shouldn't matter anyway because unless you come across something good and huge like a $20 gold coin or something large and high karat gold usually won't come in that high anyway.


As far as those tabs of all kinds they can be solid too but again, for me, many usually aren't and can tell me in some way they are junk like a little too much jumping in the numbers and tones or turning and hitting them from 90 degrees the numbers change on both the first pass and the backswing.
Many could be solid too and right smack dab in the gold range so those you must dig but the jumpy ones I quit digging long ago.

The good thing is all good I have found has always been solid and repeating from two directions in both good soil and bad and in open trash free sites or insane trash infested ones.
All of my gold has been at depths if 5" or less so real deep ones can act different but I don't worry about that.
That is usually what I dig nowadays those solid signals wherever they come in but the rest I rarely do except under special circumstances.
Can I miss gold doing this high percentage method...sure, but since I started doing it this way I cut out 80-90% of all the volume of trash I used to dig in my early days and found much higher volume of good targets after I started doing it including gold.
I won't dig everything to find that metal or anything else and I would just give up the hobby if I was forced to do that but luckily nobody is.
I am not saying you should do it this way or anybody else, if you want to dig a ton of trash more power to you...but I just can't/won't anymore so I changed.

This is an 8.8 gram large 14k religious pendant that is so big and blingy my wife doesn't want it....which shocked me.
View attachment 1468570


It was found in an old park where for the last 90 years evidently everyone that came into this park forgot what a trash can is or how to use it.
This area had to be an area where people sat and hung out for decades from the huge amount of pop tops of all kinds, screw on tops, foil, can slaw and both beaver tail and sta tabs that were here from shallow down to all depths.
In this site I avoided most of that junk and still dug old wheaties and lots of modern zinc and high tone coins.
On one hunt I was still avoiding most but came across a solid signal that was a 41, exactly the same as a million beaver tail tabs in this park and the same as about 10 in this area I left in the dirt but this one sounded solid, the numbers stayed pretty stable and in a range if about 2-3 and jumped no further and acted the same when I turned and scanned it from 90 degrees.
It was no tab.
Most everything is jumpy in my difficult dirt especially as you get deeper at as little as 3" in depth but even though this was 3-4" it was solid, I count on gold acting this way and thank goodness for me it always has, so far.
In my trash pouch I had a few beaver tails but most I let lay there...but not this one.
Probably sold for $500+ when it was new and i still have it because it is to nice to melt.

I have many more experiences that are exactly the same.
This 22k ring was found in January after I had been stuck in the house for weeks due to winter, the ground was still frozen most everywhere but I found a sunny area where the first few inches were defrosted.
I was digging every solid signal I came across just to dig anything that day, even trash that even though semi solid I pretty much knew was trash but I was still avoiding the real jumpy stuff and everything deeper than 2-3" because it was still frozen.
Then another 41 high tab signal.
Right near the 3" depth limit according to my detector but it was solid so I had to go after it frozen soil or not.
Again...not a tab.
And there are many more examples just like these two in my career.

View attachment 1468569

Another reason I love going into these high trash areas is because so many avoid them.
For those that have the patience to learn a few new skills, the control to not worry missing something here and there and the knowledge that even if you do there will always be another day and another hunt this method might work as it does for me.

I enjoyed the read. I will take the advice to heart.


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[digger27]

I enjoyed the read. I will take the advice to heart.


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I used to dig a ton of trash, the what if's really bothered me if I didn't and found a ton of great treasure but things changed for me.
Eventually I got better and better at understanding target behavior using my detectors, I studied gold intently and so my confidence levels rose if I skipped suspected trash and it didn't bother me so much anymore, plus my hunting time was limited and my patience and energy levels for digging useless trash just fell off a cliff.
I had to find another way so I came up with this.
There are areas I do dig lots of trash, the perimeters of basketball courts because masking is a huge problem and the chances of finding jewelry around these things are extra high, but most sites I do it this way and have for over 5 years now.
Surprised the heck out of me when my great finds volume rose as my trash digging volume fell but thinking about it logically I was spending more time acquiring and digging higher percentage better signals than wasting time digging a ton of bad ones...that math worked for me and still does.


I found about 6 gold rings in my early days digging a huge volume of trash, after switching to this method I began to gather up tons of clad, older better coins and much more silver and gold jewelry.
Here is all my gold I have found in my 6.5 year career to inspire you, I used a few different detectors but mostly the same high percentage method.
People say if you don't dig it all you will miss stuff and I believe this is true but still I say...so what?
Find enough any way that you have fun doing it and you will still be a very happy hunter indeed.

 

[Truth]

I used to dig a ton of trash, the what if's really bothered me if I didn't and found a ton of great treasure but things changed for me.
Eventually I got better and better at understanding target behavior using my detectors, I studied gold intently and so my confidence levels rose if I skipped suspected trash and it didn't bother me so much anymore, plus my hunting time was limited and my patience and energy levels for digging useless trash just fell off a cliff.
I had to find another way so I came up with this.
There are areas I do dig lots of trash, the perimeters of basketball courts because masking is a huge problem and the chances of finding jewelry around these things are extra high, but most sites I do it this way and have for over 5 years now.
Surprised the heck out of me when my great finds volume rose as my trash digging volume fell but thinking about it logically I was spending more time acquiring and digging higher percentage better signals than wasting time digging a ton of bad ones...that math worked for me and still does.


I found about 6 gold rings in my early days digging a huge volume of trash, after switching to this method I began to gather up tons of clad, older better coins and much more silver and gold jewelry.
Here is all my gold I have found in my 6.5 year career to inspire you, I used a few different detectors but mostly the same high percentage method.
People say if you don't dig it all you will miss stuff and I believe this is true but still I say...so what?
Find enough any way that you have fun doing it and you will still be a very happy hunter indeed.

Digger I'm at the place. Congrats on your finds. I went to the same place I found that latest gold ring which I dug a ton on trash. And I found the ring late in the day of hunting so it was my 3rd "one more hole" because I was leaving due to exhaustion. But if I wouldn't of hit that goal ring it would've been just another hard hunt of trash. So I went back out today but I wasn't mentally into working hard as I thought when I got there. I must be burnt out. I'm gonna start practicing on gold rings at home and trying to learn the exact sound, something I've never done for some reason. Any suggestions I'm all ears's and if it's a secret just PM me. LOL


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[DeepseekerADS]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread, and I've picked up a heck of a lot of knowledge here - and some very thought provoking ideas.

If I wondered into an area like that, just cruising, I'd come away very disappointed.

What I see of myself now, approaching an area like you faced. I think I'd try to get very focused.

I've paid a lot of attention to bigscoop's posts, on his using the Excal on land. My land machine is the CTX and my water machine is the Excal II, structural mods but not circuitry mods. With the Excal I normally hunt in Disc with a setting of 1. I don't find bobby pins. And, I'm an old sound machine guy and I pay the greatest attention to what the sound says.

bigscoop made me think a little. Because of ergonomics, I went with a straight shaft with the controls mounted behind my elbow, AND a knob guard. Pulling it up out of the water to switch between PP and Disc is a pain, and a time killer. I really really realize the need for a PP mod.

Of course this ventured off topic, but I want to thank bigscoop for making me think

Is the "management" leaving the tree trunks? I'm thinking that if they do, they'd give you a map-able area in the lay of the land. Use your karma or whatever positive forces you believe in, and pick a spot, say 10'x10'. Grid the area with a stock coil, turn 90 degrees and grid it again. That won't take as long. Then if you have a smaller coil, repeat it.

When you hit a repeater, repeating again at 90 degrees - THAT is always a dig.

 

[dsdigger]

Terry, I have to know, that looks like a necklace to ward off the key and pulltab spirits. Do you were that hunting in hopes of cutting down the number you have to dig Sorry, just had to ask, looks as bad a a set of janitors' keys! And as heavy too! As far as the advice, looks like you got a lot of it and see nothing I could add. Good Luck!

 

[cactusman]

I have both machines and will give a few quick tips. I have learned these from years of detecting, and many buckets of dug pull-tabs, foil, and tons of bottle caps. I dug them to see if they were trash or treasure, and while doing all this digging, I learned a bunch of things, which I will now share.

First and foremost, with either detector a small coil will be your friend in trashy areas. On the Fisher F75 learn the modes and tones well. It requires a faster sweep than the ATP for best results. Don't forget the "pump the coil" technique to help ID those pesky bottle caps, as they break right up with that technique. -- If you are wondering if your target is a bottle cap and you pump the coil over it, in addition to the audio breaking up, the FEO meter will spike. Coins, tokens, and jewelry I have tested all still sound off. Test what you have on hand with this. (Don’t forget to be in the search mode when doing this; not when pinpointing.)

Just like Loco-Digger said; every piece of jewelry I have dug, with either the Garrett or the Fisher had a pretty steady target ID, usually they didn’t vary more than 2-4 points. On the F75 also remember the confidence meter, as trash items almost always will show a low confidence.

On the Garrett AT-Pro (and AT-Gold), the target ID of modern pull-tabs will jump all around when you sweep over the target in a 90-degree fashion, nickels and jewelry will stay steady. (So do old beaver tail / ring pull tabs, folded tabs, square tabs and some others, so there isn't a 100% way to ID them. Also, make sure to be in the search mode when doing this; not when pinpointing.) For bottle caps on the ATP don't forget the Iron Audio check, and listen to the tone, as caps usually sound different, and the simple tried and true iron check will allow you to get past those.

On any machine don’t forget that most 10K and 14K gold jewelry will ID in the foil range. Far too many metal detectorists fail to realize this and knock out foil, and with it a ton of jewelry. Most foil trash will have inconsistent target IDs, sound crackly, and (typically) not be very deep, so digging some isn’t too bad.

Also, on the Garrett ATP and ATG typically the only consistent foil target ID I get are foil protective seals from juice bottles etc and they ID at a solid 40. On the Fisher F75 they come in at a solid 20. Most 10K and 14K rings start at 41 on the Garrett and 22 on the Fisher, or so has been my experience. I have found gold as high as the zinc penny range, so any consistent target ID from the near bottom of foil up in the zinc range deserves attention.

Finally, learn to think where jewelry is most likely lost. If you are digging tons of trash next to a picnic area think time; yes, there could be jewelry there, but more likely the area will have tons of foil, pull-tabs, and bottle caps; but what about a grassy hill or sports area? The trash to treasure ratio varies greatly, so learn to site read; do this well and you will be successful no matter what metal detector you are using.

 

[Truth]

I have both machines and will give a few quick tips. I have learned these from years of detecting, and many buckets of dug pull-tabs, foil, and tons of bottle caps. I dug them to see if they were trash or treasure, and while doing all this digging, I learned a bunch of things, which I will now share.

First and foremost, with either detector a small coil will be your friend in trashy areas. On the Fisher F75 learn the modes and tones well. It requires a faster sweep than the ATP for best results. Don't forget the "pump the coil" technique to help ID those pesky bottle caps, as they break right up with that technique. -- If you are wondering if your target is a bottle cap and you pump the coil over it, in addition to the audio breaking up, the FEO meter will spike. Coins, tokens, and jewelry I have tested all still sound off. Test what you have on hand with this. (Don’t forget to be in the search mode when doing this; not when pinpointing.)

Just like Loco-Digger said; every piece of jewelry I have dug, with either the Garrett or the Fisher had a pretty steady target ID, usually they didn’t vary more than 2-4 points. On the F75 also remember the confidence meter, as trash items almost always will show a low confidence.

On the Garrett AT-Pro (and AT-Gold), the target ID of modern pull-tabs will jump all around when you sweep over the target in a 90-degree fashion, nickels and jewelry will stay steady. (So do old beaver tail / ring pull tabs, folded tabs, square tabs and some others, so there isn't a 100% way to ID them. Also, make sure to be in the search mode when doing this; not when pinpointing.) For bottle caps on the ATP don't forget the Iron Audio check, and listen to the tone, as caps usually sound different, and the simple tried and true iron check will allow you to get past those.

On any machine don’t forget that most 10K and 14K gold jewelry will ID in the foil range. Far too many metal detectorists fail to realize this and knock out foil, and with it a ton of jewelry. Most foil trash will have inconsistent target IDs, sound crackly, and (typically) not be very deep, so digging some isn’t too bad.

Also, on the Garrett ATP and ATG typically the only consistent foil target ID I get are foil protective seals from juice bottles etc and they ID at a solid 40. On the Fisher F75 they come in at a solid 20. Most 10K and 14K rings start at 41 on the Garrett and 22 on the Fisher, or so has been my experience. I have found gold as high as the zinc penny range, so any consistent target ID from the near bottom of foil up in the zinc range deserves attention.

Finally, learn to think where jewelry is most likely lost. If you are digging tons of trash next to a picnic area think time; yes, there could be jewelry there, but more likely the area will have tons of foil, pull-tabs, and bottle caps; but what about a grassy hill or sports area? The trash to treasure ratio varies greatly, so learn to site read; do this well and you will be successful no matter what metal detector you are using.

I truly truly appreciate your wisdom. Thank you very much for your advice. I'll be sure to reread this a couple of times and let you know how I do my friend. Thanks again.


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[CASPER-2]

I have dug 5 gold items in 3 years, all had a solid target ID.

That is why you only have 5 - seen a lot of hunters lately posting how they found gold recently and they almost did not
dig because they were not solid IDs and they are glad they did - if all gold rings were the same weight and size - then you
could totally trust the iDs - but they are not - small white gold can read different - I had a small white gold ring with 1 carat diamond that went off as
bad but I hunt in all metal and try and clean everything out - I was surprised when I pulled it from my scoop
have had tiny thin gold go off as foil - especially when its real deep - so I try to dig it all - that way I can hope that I got it all

 

[CASPER-2]

Loco - trying to be helpful - please don't take last post wrong way
I been in hobby since 1975 - hunted with many that cranked their discrim. and try to pass up
all the trash and just get the goodies - they too missed a lot of gold - my first 3 machines
had no discrim. on them - when I was like 18 (1981) there was a popular whites machine
that a lot of hunters at that time were buying - it did not pick up white gold or nickels
so one day they drained a small pond beach - place had about a dozen hunters and Id say about
10 had these new machines - so Im finding all the pulltabs they are missing and a fair amount of nickels
I ended up with 3 white gold rings by the end of the day - guys were shocked that hey had missed them
I dropped a few and had them go over them and no of them could pick them up - unless they turned their discrim. off
that was a proud day for me - hunting in all metal with a $100 machine against their $600+ ones and I got the gold
If spots are close to you - and you have the time - take the time and take it all out
if you travel far and have limited time - then go for all the goodies you can and try to pass up as much junk as you can
but be aware that you are going to miss stuff
when I travel - I still hunt in all metal - but wont go for the huge targets and wont go for the tiny as much either
I will try for the high percentage good sounding targets
hoping you get more gold

 

[ARC]

Lol Terry I thought so I just thought you might have one in your pocket that was the secret of all secrets.


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Nope...

He dropped that trick from his pocket...

And I came along behind him and found it :P

 

[Truth]

I'm so glad I ask questions on TNET because I learn so much from each and every one of y'all. [emoji1317]


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[Davers]

Humidity is so think huh? How the soil down there? Ours is, for the majority, either moist clay or the heat makes it crumbly clay. Hard to make pretty plugs that way. But I will say mop parana goes through clay like butter not to mention roots. Keep me informed on what you fine I'm very curious and how much work it took to find it. Good luck brotha.


P.S. i'm literally excited for you about the site

I forgot the most important thing , I have found using a small coil = Go Slow.
Hard to do on a big site.

As for the trashy sites , One near the City looks the same.

The other by the Civil War Markers has basically been cleared as of last Sunday (trees hauled to the mill , limbs & saplings 'Mulched') A-bit of grading done but I had not hit either site again.

They are out of the way of my normal travels, but I've driven by the 2 ed site 4 times Early on Sunday morning's when it would be best to hunt & saw nobody there.

It in direct Sun & basically a Red clay mud bog.

I talked to a guy who hunted the area in 2002? when they tore the homes down, he said he found nothing, but??

GL Truth123

 

[bigscoop]

I forgot the most important thing , I have found using a small coil = Go Slow.
Hard to do on a big site.

GL Truth123

Truth, don't get "too locked in" on slow coil motion as it can actually cost you some potential returns if the coil is moving too slow. I use quick, fast, slow, wiggles, or any combination of these motions to help bring up returns on suspected masked targets, whatever it takes. If the coil is moving too slow over an infested area it can sometimes give your machine the opportunity to cancel out potential returns that it deems too weak, etc. I really have to pay attention to this with excal because of the auto ground balance, etc. A lot of times I'll have to pull the coil away from the bottom and either allow the machine to reset on its own or reset it myself with the remote PP switch in order to be able to return the coil to the bottom again so I can get a return on a target that the auto ground balance had simply cancelled out due to either a stationary coil sitting over the target or on the bottom next to me as I attempted to dig. This same thing also accounts for a lot of those disappearing targets that you often hear hunters talking about, the machine's ground balance simply doing its job too well.