Head Hunter pulse?

jadocs

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With a 11 inch coil the best settings I can run is the Tuning knob at about 1 o'clock and the frequency knob at 4 o'clock. Beyond that it gets erratic. When the coil is underwater keep it at a constant level.

If you lift it just a little bit you will get a false signal. At these settings I think you're running it pretty hot.

I use rechargeable Li-ion 9v batteries 600 mah. Been using them for years now, good for 1,000 recharges. Got them from Horizon Battery.

The 8 inch coils are rare. I like the 11's.

I'm curious what settings you use? I think with the 11 inch coil you can't run the full frequency. It's too hot a coil.

Hey ROBOTCOP, when you adjust your freq are you doing it to a nickel or some other object like a gold ring? I have found that on my 11" I can optimize the sensitivity based on a specific object. I have found that there are some freq ranges that are not very sensitive to a nickel (some mid ranges) and some that hit it hard at depth (higher ranges 4 to 5 o'clock).

As a side note this little 8" that I just got is hot. I'm not sure if the 11" is deeper.
 

Bigcypresshunter

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Dec 15, 2004
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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
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Oh I see now, that 8" coil is hard wired and your headset has the connector on it?

No connectors. I have 2 DetectorPro HeadHunters. One like new that I bought with an 11 inch coil that falses constantly and another with an 8 inch coil with the rotten wire in the picture that was sent to me for free from a member that didnt want it anymore.. Both sets are hard wired. I have 2 sets of headphones both hard wired. It looks like the previous owner tried to rewire something in the headphones to repair it and he drilled a hole in each cup for the wires. Im not sure what happened there but I only wanted the coil. But unfortunately the coil wire is bad way down at the coil.
 

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jadocs

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Ah I see. Here is a picture that I saved from a thread I came across when doing some research. I believe the areas with the question mark are where the coil wires are soldered. If I remember correctly it didn't matter which wire (red/white) went where since it's a mono coil.

IMG_3533.JPG
 

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Bigcypresshunter

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Dec 15, 2004
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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
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Ah I see. Here is a picture that I saved from a thread I came across when doing some research. I believe the areas with the question mark are where the coil wires are soldered. If I remember correctly it didn't matter which wire (red/white) went where since it's a mono coil.

View attachment 1455456

Thanks. How important is the braided metal shield? Im not sure how to splice the shield together.
DetectorPro from Virgin Is coil wire rot (1).jpg
 

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jadocs

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If I were you right now I would take apart the headphones you were given and see exactly how the coil cable is routed and soldered. As far as the dry rot down by the coil, I would seal it up with epoxy or something until I figured out how to get in there and install a new cable.
 

Bigcypresshunter

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If I were you right now I would take apart the headphones you were given and see exactly how the coil cable is routed and soldered. As far as the dry rot down by the coil, I would seal it up with epoxy or something until I figured out how to get in there and install a new cable.

The braided metal shield on the cable rusted and separated completely. It was rotten when I received it. I have to get it out of storage and see what i have because I cant remember.
 

jadocs

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The braided metal shield on the cable rusted and separated completely. It was rotten when I received it. I have to get it out of storage and see what i have because I cant remember.

Do you have any updated pics that show what you are describing? It sounds like the cable cover dry rotted and it was continued to be used in salt water.
 

Bigcypresshunter

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Do you have any updated pics that show what you are describing? It sounds like the cable cover dry rotted and it was continued to be used in salt water.

Yes the rubber cable cover dry rotted and now has completely fallen off the wire.. But the metal shield which appears to be a ground, has also rotted in at least one spot and separated. So to repair it i need to solder it together somehow or replace the shielded wire but im not sure how to make the connection. Looks like just one wire and the shield is the second wire.

20170529_180842.jpg 20170529_180800.jpg
 

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Bigcypresshunter

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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
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The metal cable shield appears to be copper that is coated with some other shiny metal. But the previous owner must have gotten salt inside the cable. I tried to wash it but it already rotted and turned the copper shield green. I dont know how deep the damage is or if it got inside the coil. But I tried to save the lower part of the cable by sealing it with brush on sealer heat shrink tubing. But i need to solder a new cable somehow and i dont know if it will even hold on to copper thats green.
View attachment 1456482 20170529_182827 (1).jpg
 

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jadocs

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Yeah there's no saving that cable. That's really bad. Have you opened up the phones to see if that shield is grounded?
 

Bigcypresshunter

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Yeah there's no saving that cable. That's really bad. Have you opened up the phones to see if that shield is grounded?

It was disconnected when I received it. There is only one wire inside that cable and the shield. I opened the cups and he has wires that were re-soldered in several places, so its hard to tell. But I have my other unit to compare. It appears there are 2 wires total for that coil, (the center wire and the shield) so i need to connect the shield back together. I just dont know how to make the connection.

I have my other unit so I can copy it. One thing I noticed is that the cups on his unit snap together much better than mine. Mine is a different style that keeps popping off.
 

Bigcypresshunter

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Dec 15, 2004
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I think maybe I may try to purchase a metal shield that's a larger diameter to side over the connection, sort of like the heat shrink tubing, and solder it all together. Not sure if it will solder to green copper but I can try. I just need to find a place that sells the shield separately or try to remove it from a cable.


Unless they make some kind of splice?
 

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Bigcypresshunter

Gold Member
Dec 15, 2004
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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
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A quick search and they do make a splice or sleeve, similar to this diagram.. Thats what I need. And I can waterproof the entire splice with epoxy or brush on rubber.
sleeve.jpg
 

Bigcypresshunter

Gold Member
Dec 15, 2004
27,000
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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
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The shield seperated at about 8 inches up from the coil because it was rotted. The shield lower than that spot is also rotted and green but i sleeved it trying to protect it. But Im not sure it will even keep a connection being so green from corrosion.
20170530_193310.jpg 20170530_193252.jpg

Here is the end of the cable that connects to the headphones. It appears to be only 1 wire and the shield was soldered to a wire.

20170530_193219.jpg

Thanks for the help. Im hoping I can fix it.
 

jadocs

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I wish I knew more about the shielding and ground in relation to coil function.
 

Bigcypresshunter

Gold Member
Dec 15, 2004
27,000
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South Florida
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70's Whites TM Amphibian, HH Pulse, Ace 250
Primary Interest:
Beach & Shallow Water Hunting
I wish I knew what was under that coil connector before attempting to cut it open. I guess I cut the coil only as a last resort.
 

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