Rust Removal & Molasses

[Citiboy289]

Now that there is an actual restoration thread I just wanted to pass this on, I have posted it in response on other threads on TNET but thought this was an Excellent place to post it for other folks restorations;
I found this on YOUTUBE and really thought it was a joke until I used it myself on a heavily rusted item I found
The method limits any metal loss
The mixture is
1 part molasses to 9 parts hot water
Stir well making sure the molasses is well dispursed
pour the mixture into a Tupperware container and seal
LET IT SET 2 weeks
Open the container and you will see that all the rust has risen to the top and formed a sludge
Rinse with cold water and put the item in a 200 degree oven for 5 minutes to finish the drying process

OK so your done laughing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well consider this ----- the molasses will begin to ferment, in order to ferment the process requires oxygen , since the container is sealed the fermentation uses the oxygen in the rust oxide

the process limits the metal loss less than an acid based process
the mixture is not harmful and you can even pore it into lawn when finished

the only con is when you open the container you neighbors will think your running a still LOL
Give it a try

 

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[Jarl]

Late response here, but I wonder if this would work on heavily crudded coins. I'm going to give this a whorl. If that works, it would be great. Some clad just wont clean up for nothing...soaking in vinegar and peroxide will not remove deeply etched staining. I have use oxalic acid(basically toilet bowl cleaner) to no avail. I have never used CLR though, but some metals might not be safe to use with that. Aside from brutalizing the coins with wire brushes or other abrasives, I have really no good success to cleaning piles of clad with small efforts. I have tried electrolysis, but this method is touchy when trying to do a bunch of coins at once. I don't want to spend a lot of energy cleaning them, that is more than what I spent unearthing them in the first place. I'll try this molasses method though.

 

[Jarl]

Maybe, for my situation(multiple deeply dirt etched clad) soaking them in Coke might work? As a mild alternative to naval jelly(highly phosphoric).

 

[Citiboy289]

Not to sure about coins ------ But I would not think you would need the 2 weeks mentioned ---------------- I usually do larger objects and since I did the original post have cut my " Cooking Time " to 5 days and then give it a Look See - It was really potent on my last item The main body worked fine but several smaller rusted items got eaten through So keep an eye on what your doing The worst is that if you open it early , and reseal its will just consume the new air and keep going --------------- Its really interesting to open it and see the rust at the top in the shape of the object

 

[Shortstack]

Just a quick point of clarity. The molasses being used in the YouTube is AGRICULTURAL molasses.....not the stuff you get off of the shelf in a grocery store. The guys using it in those videos are soaking large body parts for old cars and any painted areas are untouched. The molasses technique removes just the RUST and no good metal.

Now, for smaller projects, such as things we dig while detecting, it's good to know that my "eatin" molasses will work and I don't need to buy a gallon (or 5 gallons) of ag molasses for a really small project.

 

[sprailroad]

Late response here, but I wonder if this would work on heavily crudded coins. I'm going to give this a whorl. If that works, it would be great. Some clad just wont clean up for nothing...soaking in vinegar and peroxide will not remove deeply etched staining. I have use oxalic acid(basically toilet bowl cleaner) to no avail. I have never used CLR though, but some metals might not be safe to use with that. Aside from brutalizing the coins with wire brushes or other abrasives, I have really no good success to cleaning piles of clad with small efforts. I have tried electrolysis, but this method is touchy when trying to do a bunch of coins at once. I don't want to spend a lot of energy cleaning them, that is more than what I spent unearthing them in the first place. I'll try this molasses method though.

For CLAD coins, dimes, quarters, something I learned on Treasure Net. In a rock tumbler, say you have 50 to 100 dimes, with the CLAD in the tumbler, pour in lemon juice just enough to cover the coins, add your gravel, add one or two teaspoons of salt, tumble for about an hour, discoloration of the nickel is gone, add they look pretty good. Again, CLAD coins. Same for nickel's, but tumble them by themselves. I've done dimes & quarters together, they being the same alloy.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

Again, CLAD coins. Same for nickel's, but tumble them by themselves. I've done dimes & quarters together, they being the same alloy.

Great tip! I'd tried this before, but included the nickels with the clad and they basically came out orange colored.

 

[digger460]

Late response here, but I wonder if this would work on heavily crudded coins. I'm going to give this a whorl. If that works, it would be great. Some clad just wont clean up for nothing...soaking in vinegar and peroxide will not remove deeply etched staining. I have use oxalic acid(basically toilet bowl cleaner) to no avail. I have never used CLR though, but some metals might not be safe to use with that. Aside from brutalizing the coins with wire brushes or other abrasives, I have really no good success to cleaning piles of clad with small efforts. I have tried electrolysis, but this method is touchy when trying to do a bunch of coins at once. I don't want to spend a lot of energy cleaning them, that is more than what I spent unearthing them in the first place. I'll try this molasses method though.

Don't use CLR on copper coins, especially IHC'S. Don't ask me how I know

 

[sprailroad]

Great tip! I'd tried this before, but included the nickels with the clad and they basically came out orange colored.

Very true Deep, I do not know why that is really, but the nickels I always tumble separate, by themselves, come out looking good.

 

[DaveVanP]

I didn't see this mentioned - the molasses trick ONLY works on iron/steel.

I have de-rusted antique car parts: wire wheels, body panels, firewalls, engine parts that have spent 80+ years exposed to the elements in salvage yards. Won't touch painted areas, won't touch nickel or chrome plating - although if the metal is rusted BENEATH the plating or paint, it may leave a void. That depends on whether the solution can contact the rust underneath.

I have used it on antique/dug gun parts: barrels, cylinders, hammers, frizzens, lockplates....

Be aware that once the iron/steel is rinsed off, it is ABSOLUTELY, CHEMICALLY "NAKED" and will begin to rust again immediately. DON'T touch it with bare hands. The metal will show any fingerprints, and they will require steel wool to remove. Get some cheap cotton gloves. Have something handy to preserve it: wax/oil/grease/lacquer... (wax works good out of the oven)

 

[UncleDig]

Anyone should know that it"ll rust immediately after its rinsed off. Are these car parts found from metal detecting with your F44? Or are you retired and restoring an old car for a hobby like metal detecting.

 

[A2coins]

Hmm that's all hmmm