GGT starting to come apart

Gold4Mike

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May 10, 2017
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Mount Vernon, Washington
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Has anyone else had a problem with their GGT starting to come apart at the contact spots? My Explorer is starting to part between the horizontal rear (tailings?) deck and the vertical side piece.
View attachment IMG_6027.jpg
It will still work as is, but I use it pretty hard and I'm worried that it may continue to separate. Has anyone else had this problem, and what would be the best way to resecure these parts? I thought about JB Weld, but if anyone has better ideas I would like to hear them.
 

Goldwasher

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May 26, 2009
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Has anyone else had a problem with their GGT starting to come apart at the contact spots? My Explorer is starting to part between the horizontal rear (tailings?) deck and the vertical side piece.
View attachment 1769101
It will still work as is, but I use it pretty hard and I'm worried that it may continue to separate. Has anyone else had this problem, and what would be the best way to resecure these parts? I thought about JB Weld, but if anyone has better ideas I would like to hear them.

It will keep splitting. The glue on the first boxes sold was:censored:

If you can get some M.E.K. you can glue it yourself.

Or some sort of solvent glue.

the tubes came out in mine. Still haven't glued them back in. I have to invrnt some sort of widget to hold, turn, push them in place for the glue to set.

Good luck , Have fun :BangHead:
 

arizau

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May 2, 2014
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Has anyone else had a problem with their GGT starting to come apart at the contact spots? My Explorer is starting to part between the horizontal rear (tailings?) deck and the vertical side piece.
View attachment 1769101
It will still work as is, but I use it pretty hard and I'm worried that it may continue to separate. Has anyone else had this problem, and what would be the best way to resecure these parts? I thought about JB Weld, but if anyone has better ideas I would like to hear them.

For a quick and probably never fail fix try the following. Place a small block of wood under the deck close to scoop entrance (about where your thumb is in the picture above) and with slight gap but parallel to the side wall and secure it to the deck bottom with wood screws. Finish by aligning the deck and side wall and secure the block to the side wall with wood screws. I doubt that the slight obstruction to water flow through the scoop will change performance of the unit.

Thinking about it a piece of aluminum angle secured with small nuts and bolts will work too and be less obstructive of water flow....actually that is how I made my wooden zook.

Good luck.
 

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OP
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Gold4Mike

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May 10, 2017
230
718
Mount Vernon, Washington
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I think I will give that epoxy a try first. If that doesn't hold, I can still try what arizau suggested. Thanks for the suggestions!
 

N-Lionberger

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Dec 1, 2013
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Why not just use some ABS cement? Epoxy is going to be temporary fix, a solvent type cement will weld it back together.
 

N-Lionberger

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I have never tried M.E.K. I have used the stuff from the hardware store on my ABS projects with good results, my bazooka recently had a run in with a truck, got it all glued up fine.
 

Tahoegold

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Mar 7, 2016
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Is there a preventative measure that can strengthen the other seams? I have both a bazooka and GGT and don't have any issues yet. But, glad this came up. I'm putting the glue on my list! Will going over the seams strengthen, weaken, do anything?
 

Tahoegold

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Hey, I like the triangular welding rods. That would put on some reinforcement. I noticed on my Motherload there's an extra piece on the bottom sidewall for support. I wonder if they started doing this on later models like mine. Maybe this would be a good solution in this situation with the OP. Plus maybe beefing up the welds. I know nothing about plastic by the way. So I'm guessing. Hoever, I'd like to keep my stuff operational if possible!

IMG_20191107_210656.jpg
 

russau

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May 29, 2005
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Prior to any cracking at the bend spot's , try using a small amount of the A.B.S. glue (red can label ) on the edge of the seams. this will help strengthen that edge. look for any cracking at all seams and glue'em! And if you do have any separation use a piece of A.B.S. to over lap this separation and clamp it together until dry!
 

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Goldwasher

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any "abs glue" will have MEK in it. Just different formulations to make different viscosity dry/cure times

Straight MEK is liquid and dries very fast. Dripping it into cracks and brushing it along them will make a surface weld slight penetration depending on the void.

Plastic welding rod. requires a plastic welder.
 

Tahoegold

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Mar 7, 2016
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any "abs glue" will have MEK in it. Just different formulations to make different viscosity dry/cure times

Straight MEK is liquid and dries very fast. Dripping it into cracks and brushing it along them will make a surface weld slight penetration depending on the void.

Plastic welding rod. requires a plastic welder.
Ok, so the welding sticks can't be used with glue. It sure looks like that's how the bazookas were done. I didn't know about welding sticks. It almost looks like one was used in the seams with glue. Not sure how this was done... IMG_20191108_105125.jpg
 

RTR

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Hey Gold4Mike
Haven't seen you thread active in a while (on your gold /stream hunt) ,how's it going ?
 

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Goldwasher

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Ok, so the welding sticks can't be used with glue. It sure looks like that's how the bazookas were done. I didn't know about welding sticks. It almost looks like one was used in the seams with glue. Not sure how this was done... View attachment 1769510

I would have to wait for boxes to be welded in between steps.

Glued first then Todd would lay a bead with a hot air welder thing that used the rod. Along the deck around the front where it had to be filed smooth. Theres a feet of rod on the longer boxes.

Those little micro furrows where the weld meets the deck and sidewall are made by the hot tip of the welder running on the plastic.
you can see the tip with the scoop lip thing top right. https://www.amazon.com/Beyondlife-P...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07CR9M9N6 it makes those little lines that look like glue.

A hot abs worm following. Thats a nice bead. Todd was welding good that day:laughing7: Just saw talked to him a few days ago..I'll tell him we were complimenting his welding.

I've given this tip before two. The inside of the trap has it's seams sealed with "goober" instead of a weld.

Goober is a mix of acetone and abs shavings... It's a pour until it's right formula..probably close to a 50/50 mix.

probably the best weld/joint fixer beefer upper for any Black Boxes out there.
 

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Tahoegold

Sr. Member
Mar 7, 2016
304
303
Carson City, NV
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Compadre, Gold Racer, White's TRX,Bazooka GT 24",God Hog mats,Grizzly Gold Trap Motherload, Harbor freight 9 function, Cintech pinpointer, Determination
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I would have to wait for boxes to be welded in between steps.

Glued first then Todd would lay a bead with a hot air welder thing that used the rod. Along the deck around the front where it had to be filed smooth. Theres a feet of rod on the longer boxes.

Those little micro furrows where the weld meets the deck and sidewall are made by the hot tip of the welder running on the plastic.
you can see the tip with the scoop lip thing top right. https://www.amazon.com/Beyondlife-P...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07CR9M9N6 it makes those little lines that look like glue.

A hot abs worm following. Thats a nice bead. Todd was welding good that day:laughing7: Just saw talked to him a few days ago..I'll tell him we were complimenting his welding.

I've given this tip before two. The inside of the trap has it's seams sealed with "goober" instead of a weld.

Goober is a mix of acetone and abs shavings... It's a pour until it's right formula..probably close to a 50/50 mix.

probably the best weld/joint fixer beefer upper for any Black Boxes out there.
Ok, that's how the weld rods work. Got it. I like the shaving mix idea. That sounds doable! Tilt the unit dmso the glue lays in the corner, add mix! I may need to practice once or twice!
Yes, very nice weld now that I know what that is! Tell Tod Thanks! Love my 24" Sniper!
 

OP
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Gold4Mike

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May 10, 2017
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Mount Vernon, Washington
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Grizzly Goldtrap Explorer
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I ended up trying some JB Weld just because I have it in the cupboard and gave it a test run to the Skyomish. It held up fine for the first test, I guess I'll see how long it lasts before trying something more substantial.
 

OP
OP
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Gold4Mike

Full Member
May 10, 2017
230
718
Mount Vernon, Washington
Detector(s) used
Angus Mackirk Foreman
Grizzly Goldtrap Explorer
Gold Hog Piglet highbanker
Home made slate miller table
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
Hey Gold4Mike
Haven't seen you thread active in a while (on your gold /stream hunt) ,how's it going ?

Wife and I have been going out fairly consistently, mostly the Nooksack because it's close. Slowly filling the vial, but nothing too exciting so haven't been sharing any pictures. We both just recently retired and have more time now so we've traveled a bit farther to the Skykomish near Index this fall and for just test sluicing and poking around we're pretty excited. Just running the GGT at a new location and just exploring one day we totaled .24 gram! Now have to figure out how to get our Piglet there! I think I need to start picking ET1955's brain a little bit more.
IMG_5952.JPG
 

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