Various Finds - Colonial-Period and Early US Navy Buttons - Use of Aluminum Jelly?

Silver Tree Chaser

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Here’s a posting to bring me up to speed on a few better finds since my last post in June.

A 17th -18th Century site with a likely historical connection to King Phillip’s War is offering up more finds. I’ve been working it since last year, but it has yet to offer up a big find despite lots of time and effort. I even located the cellar hole, which was unfortunately filled with rubble (small stones cleared from the surrounding farm field over the years). I found the fire place with some bricks in place, lots of ash, and all sorts of animal bones – small rodent-like jaw bones, pig tusks, you name it. The fire place was 50” below grade! The builder’s trench and the overall cellar hole offered up very little finds for all the work involved. Every shovel full of dirt was sifted or checked with my detector. Sifting was less effective for metal targets, there was far too much dirt to search without a prized find going overlooked. It was disappointing with the lack of finds. Where did they dispose all their trash? Time equally spent detecting the entire field in comparison was far more productive.

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These bricks were still stacked in small groups with a layer of surrounding ash. The house was undoubtedly a New England Stone Ender.

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I won’t being digging another trench like this anytime soon.

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This bone-handle grip (half-segment) for a knife was sticking out the side of my trench.

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Assorted finds – furniture pieces, watch winders, 17th century buttons (one of pewter), and a plain leather mount. The watch winders and one furniture piece came from another site.

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This apparent knee buckle was found at the very bottom of the trench. It’s the only complete buckle frame from the site, one frame among many fragments (plow fodder).

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The same site has offered up about a half dozen early spoon fragments. I found this solid spoon bowl with partial handle last week while metal detecting in the surrounding field. Maker’s seal near handle is too worn to ID. I’m thinking it was a trifid-end variety.

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I might cook this with electrolysis. It came from the very bottom of the trench. It’s very thin based on the removal of the outer crust at the very tip (with US quarter for comparison) – too thin for door hinges of any sort. A dagger blade of some sort or just wishful thinking?

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I found these two early 1800’s US Navy buttons at the same site. This site has now offered up about eight military buttons from the same period. The small button with the shield on left might be quite early. Both have complete shanks. I’ve ordered aluminum jelly to try and get at some of the gilt that is still present. I'm told that lemon juice is another option, but I think the aluminum jelly will be easier to handle.

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Another site that I’m working has produced a second solid silver shoe buckle, and it’s another kid’s buckle. I posted the first several weeks ago. Here’s a look at both buckles. The plain one was the most recent recovery.

Coin finds have been a little sparse – several coppers from various sites and an unidentifiable fragment from an apparent hammered silver coin (too miniscule to be worth a photo). It was found at the site with the dug trench.

I did come up with a surprising Indian Head Cent find this past weekend. I’ll be posting it up soon. I wanted to first get current with these other finds.


Good Hunting
 

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UnderMiner

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Wow! Those are some nice little trinkets from yesteryear! :thumbsup:
 

CASPER-2

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Ahab8

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Love all of the buckles buddy. Interested to see what's hiding under all that rust on the possible dagger piece. Nice assortment of finds
 

HomeGuardDan

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great finds man! I would be careful with jelly on those buttons... I do not see any gilt showing through and see places where the button will be exposed to "burning" from the chemical reaction.

Dan
 

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Silver Tree Chaser

Silver Tree Chaser

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great finds man! I would be careful with jelly on those buttons... I do not see any gilt showing through and see places where the button will be exposed to "burning" from the chemical reaction.

Dan

Dan:

I've never worked with aluminum jelly, so I'll experiment first with some junk buttons. I'd like to gamble for a better appearance, as much of the detail is covered over. I wonder if lemon juice would be a safer approach. I was hoping to hear from Iron Patch, as this type of job is his specialty. If I don't hear from him soon, I'll send a PM.
 

Ahab8

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Dan: I've never worked with aluminum jelly, so I'll experiment first with some junk buttons. I'd like to gamble for a better appearance, as much of the detail is covered over. I wonder if lemon juice would be a safer approach. I was hoping to hear from Iron Patch, as this type of job is his specialty. If I don't hear from him soon, I'll send a PM.
If you've never done it before be very careful. It's easy to screw up a button. There was a fantastic piece on here written by Buckleboy about cleaning all the different buttons. The important part about the jelly is to neutralize it with water fairly quickly so it doesn't continue to eat thru and remove the gilt. I'm pretty new but had good success with a couple of buttons using a qtip with aj on it and rolling it across the surface. Did that for about 20 seconds then ran the water on it with a bit of soap to neutralize. Good luck buddy. Here's a couple of piece I used the jelly on image-2298410441.jpg image-1470331090.jpg image-867872615.jpg Yes that last one is a huge button. Thing is enormous
 

treblehunter

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You put some hard work into those finds, blood sweat and tears, no doubt. Good luck with your button clean up, congrats!
 

Bill D. (VA)

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Jim - that's an intriguing site you have there that covers quite a sustained period of time. I know it can be frustrating to find the trash pit sometimes, but you can bet they're somewhere near the cellar hole. From my experience the pits are usually within 50-100 feet of the house site, and it seems like the earlier the site the closer the pits are to the dwelling. And they're usually in a lower spot or on a downslope. I’m always on the lookout for those large, deep iron signals that could indicate the presence of a barrel band, colonial hoe, or other large iron artifact that was discarded into the bottom of a trash pit, and I've found many pits that way. When I hear one of those tones I immediately dig a test hole to see if I can find a use layer filled with charcoal, pottery, glass, brick, oyster shells, animal bones, pipe stems or anything indicating previous habitation. If you can't get a deep iron signal then the next best alternative is to dig a few random test holes in the area where the surface iron is the heaviest, or where there's a lot of surface pottery and glass. Occasionally I'll actually do some grid probing (3 feet on center) which can be hard work but usually will pay off, eventually. So I wouldn't give up on it just yet.

By the way, I prefer the use of aluminum jelly over lemon juice based on the results I've seen for myself. But just put it on briefly (maybe 30 seconds) for the first application to see how its working. Sometimes that's all it takes, but other times you need to reapply and repeat several times to obtain the desired result. I use a small plastic syringe so it can be applied precisely where you want as putting jelly on non-gilted surfaces should be avoided if possible. Good luck!
 

HomeGuardDan

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Dan:

I've never worked with aluminum jelly, so I'll experiment first with some junk buttons. I'd like to gamble for a better appearance, as much of the detail is covered over. I wonder if lemon juice would be a safer approach. I was hoping to hear from Iron Patch, as this type of job is his specialty. If I don't hear from him soon, I'll send a PM.

I've never worked with aluminum jelly, so I'll experiment first with some junk buttons. I'd like to gamble for a better appearance, as much of the detail is covered over. I wonder if lemon juice would be a safer approach. I was hoping to hear from Iron Patch, as this type of job is his specialty. If I don't hear from him soon, I'll send a PM.[/QUOTE]

Play with it, but honestly it takes experience and an eye to determine which pieces you should clean with jelly or juice. Here is a quick guide to dos and donts:
1. If you can see gilt faintly or blatantly on the button - you can use jelly (look on the edges of details and the rim of the button)
2. If you can see a solid oxidation layer (with no gilt showing) - you can use jelly (you want to look for a solid coating with no chips, holes, etc. on the piece. Even without gilt this is a gamble and typically you know best from experience - if from dry clay soil and the layer has small particles attached it is typically OK)
3. If you see ANY holes (two piece button) or cavities (one piece button) you need to be VERY careful as you most likely have no gilt remaining and it typically will only deteriorate the button.
4. If any of the button has the undercoating of gilt (meaning you can see where gilt was at and rubbed off due to drying out) don't use jelly as it will only turn it red and again deteriorate any additional detail.

A good trick is to first lightly scrape the button with a toothpick to move any attached derbies to the button. The either dip your finger tip in olive oil (or rub the natural skin oil off your nose or from behind your ear) and wipe the button's face. If you see gilt showing through, you can pretty much count on what gilt will def show through by using jelly. However, any area not showing gilt (typically raised edges) have a good chance of turning red or black or even worse, rubbing away (depending on the button construction).

In all cases, when you use jelly or juice, you will want to soak the button in a mixture of baking soda and water (80-90% water) to balance the acid and stabilize the process. Then (without rubbing) run it under running water to clean everything off (or dip it and shake in a bowl of water).

Personally, it is a judgment call with your buttons...I see gilt and it will show through, but I also like the slick green oxidation coat on the button. I would most likely use olive oil to bring the gilt and detail out while not harming the oxidation layer. It comes with practice using this method and many people destroy good buttons by over doing it.
Hope this helps.

Dan
 

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