Rust on my stainless Sandscoop

[SouthFLdigger]

Hello guys just recently got this scoop in and used it twice, i always wash my scoops thoroughly in freshwater to remove as much salt as possible. Is it normal for a stainless scoop to develop this much rust on two outings or were there too many impurities in the welds.

 

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[Tpmetal]

no simple answer but its in manufacturing, could possible be not enough gas to shield the welds? or welded with lower quality stainless mig wire? not sure just speculating

 

[mlutz]

It would depend on the grade of stainless. Some are more resistant to rusting than others, all will eventually rust depending on conditions. I have always heard however that:
Stainless Steel- Isn't
Friendly fire- Isn't

 

[scarriker]

Stainless steel does rust. Just a lot slower. If you spray it with a penetrating oil after rinsing and drying it will stop rusting.

 

[gunsil]

It would depend on the grade of stainless. Some are more resistant to rusting than others, all will eventually rust depending on conditions. I have always heard however that:
Stainless Steel- Isn't
Friendly fire- Isn't

Civil war isn't.

 

[Jason in Enid]

Looks like poor welding. I've been using stainless scoops (RTG & SunspoT) for about 15 years and not had any problem with rust on the body or the welds.

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

The electrode was probably a lower grade stainless and now the weld is galvanically sacrificial to the surrounding metal.

Squirt some CorrosionX on it after you clean it.

 

[strongarm18]

Many things can affect stainless, even simple salt water if you don't take care of it.
Here's some good info below:

Stainless bucket:
Stainless steel is common chromium/nickel alloy steel used in thousands of products. A protective chromium oxide film forms on its surface which gives stainless its superior corrosion resistance property. When properly maintained, stainless provides excellent luster, strength and durability. If the scoop has been electro-polished....this is a process which involves a chemical bath, electrical current, and temperature control. The benefits are a pristine finish, extra hardness and corrosion resistance.

Some scoops on the market are just painted silver in the weld area. In most applications, stainless will not rust or stain even after many years of use. However, stainless steel is not stain or rust proof. When used in contact with chloride salts, sulfides or other rusting metals, stainless will discolor, rust, or even corrode. Proper care and maintenance of stainless in marine environments where stainless may be exposed to corrosive elements will help keep the stainless product beautiful and functional for years to come,

Always –
Clean stainless frequently with soap and water especially after use in salt water. If any rust spots occur, remove only that area with a stainless cleaner. You can keep the shine on the product by using a car wax.

Never - !!!
Use coarse abrasives like sand paper or steel wool on stainless.
These may actually cause rusting.

Never- !!!
Clean with mineral acids or bleaches.

Never - !!!
Leave stainless in contact with iron, steel or other metals which cause contamination that can cause rust or corrosion.

 

[marion moore]

Many things can affect stainless, even simple salt water if you don't take care of it.
Here's some good info below:

Stainless bucket:
Stainless steel is common chromium/nickel alloy steel used in thousands of products. A protective chromium oxide film forms on its surface which gives stainless its superior corrosion resistance property. When properly maintained, stainless provides excellent luster, strength and durability. If the scoop has been electro-polished....this is a process which involves a chemical bath, electrical current, and temperature control. The benefits are a pristine finish, extra hardness and corrosion resistance.

Some scoops on the market are just painted silver in the weld area. In most applications, stainless will not rust or stain even after many years of use. However, stainless steel is not stain or rust proof. When used in contact with chloride salts, sulfides or other rusting metals, stainless will discolor, rust, or even corrode. Proper care and maintenance of stainless in marine environments where stainless may be exposed to corrosive elements will help keep the stainless product beautiful and functional for years to come,

Always –
Clean stainless frequently with soap and water especially after use in salt water. If any rust spots occur, remove only that area with a stainless cleaner. You can keep the shine on the product by using a car wax.

Never - !!!
Use coarse abrasives like sand paper or steel wool on stainless.
These may actually cause rusting.

Never- !!!
Clean with mineral acids or bleaches.

Never - !!!
Leave stainless in contact with iron, steel or other metals which cause contamination that can cause rust or corrosion.

amen, amen, amen

 

[jadocs]

What brand of scoop is it?

It looks like you removed more rust around the top.

 

[OBN]

Welding / Fabrication

When stainless steel is welded, a scale is formed and on either side of the weld is a heat affected zone that varies in colour from straw to blue-black, depending on welding conditions. This area is rich in metal oxides that possess very little corrosion resistance and will readily allow corrosion to commence. This effect extends beyond the areas affected by colour change. This is a very reactive area that will readily rust in a very short time. Because this is little understood, it is common to find badly corroded areas where stainless steel is found on site. This is most unfortunate since the method of avoiding such corrosion is simple and relatively inexpensive.
Descaling, pickling and passivating are separate processes that are often confused.

Pickling
Pickling removes a thin surface layer from the stainless, using an acid solution, which is usually a hydrofluoric and nitric acid mixture. For the pickling to be effective the surface should be clean and free of greases and oils. Pickling will remove embedded iron, surface iron contamination, heat tint and weld scale. Pickling will produce a dull matt uniform grey finish.


Stainless Steel owes its corrosion resistance to the formation of a chromium oxide surface layer and is then referred to as being passive. This occurs naturally and spontaneously provided sufficient oxygen is available. Even aerated water provides enough oxygen for this process to occur. Material supplied by the producing mills is fully passivated and further passivation is rarely required. However, if the oxide has been stripped, perhaps by pickling, then the oxide layer takes a short time to reach its full thickness and this can be accelerated by passivation. This treatment also builds up the layer in crevices, for example joints, where oxygen could have limited access.

Passivation
Passivation is a separate process to pickling. It can be carried out as an independent process or as part of pickling involving nitric acid in the solution. In this case passivation occurs sequentially and not simultaneously. Nitric acid is the usual strong oxidising agent used for chemical passivation. On its own it will only remove free iron contamination from the stainless steel surface and is not an effective acid for pickling stainless steel.


Pickling after the construction phase will remove the chromium depleted zone and free iron, fully renews the corrosion resistance and brings it back entirely to the specifications of the original raw material.




I only know this because one of my hunting partners built scoops, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, and Titanium.

 

[RustyGold]

Wow! What OBN said!

 

[Slowtaknow]

Stain-less steel

 

[ARC]

Depends on grade of stainless... and welds materials.

TRUE high grade stainless... is the best stuff on earth.

IF you ever buy stainless anything... carry a magnet... and test.

 

[ARC]

Stainless that sticks to magnet is low grade... also weld areas should be tested.

 

[Blak bart]

In the yachting industry people often ask the same question. The simple response I give is,"thats why they call it stain-less and not stainfree steel".

 

[ARC]

IF metal detecting is a permanent part of your life I suggest to anyone wanting a scoop that will last and pry a boulder out of the way... dig through concrete... pure rock... heavy shell packs... and everything else from hard packed dirt or cobble...

Get to know a serious welder WHO WORKS WITH stainless on a regular basis... and knows the difference between steels and proper mending of such.

One who can do welds that are "one" with the universe.

Proper welding IS an art.... Proper Stainless welding is a SERIOUS / EXPERTISE welder's art.

Not just any welder can weld.

Look for welders who can lay down "stacks of dimes" or "cross welds"... USING HIGHEST GRADE rods.

Like or similar to this.

 

[ARC]

My scoop... only one I own... errr wait I own 3... one alum that cam with a detector that my girl uses... one alum that was a minelab custom... which is in 3 parts somewhere around here in separate places...

And my custom stainless... which is now ... err.... 20 + years old ?

I have used it relentlessly under ALL conditions... and kick it into all types of ground with force... rarely if ever wash it... and could eat off it.

Ive layed it on the ground and stood on it 30 or so times or more to get a heads up and to reshape bucket... (200lbs)... and its ready for more. :P

 

[ARC]

Hello guys just recently got this scoop in and used it twice, i always wash my scoops thoroughly in freshwater to remove as much salt as possible. Is it normal for a stainless scoop to develop this much rust on two outings or were there too many impurities in the welds.

View attachment 1423336 View attachment 1423337

At least you bought stainless.

Welds can be "redone" after these "wash out".

 

[RTR]

For what its worth Plastic dosen't rust.This DIY sand scoop cost nothing to make.It dug 93 holes on last vacation and shows no signs of it.