Zud cleaner, does it work for haze?

bullgill

Full Member
Jun 8, 2014
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I am not yet able to tell if a bottle is truly sick or not, I posted a picture here of a cream top that I dug that has very little case ware but has a lot of haze inside. I am not sure if this bottle is sick or could be cleaned.

I took 1/2 a can of Zud and mixed it with water then put it in a milk bottle with a really tough stain and haze and shook it up. The solids in the cleaner percolated to the bottom, I imaging the acid is in the water though. I will let it soak for a couple of days to see if it works.

I will get some muriatic acid if that is my only shot at getting the haze out. I guess the limestone is most likely what is causing the haze and I read that oxalic acid is not strong enough.












Thanks for any help, much appreciated.

Happy hunting : >
 

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Bass

Silver Member
Jan 20, 2013
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I have no experience using Zud. I only use Barkeeper's Friend and copper shot. If the haze won't come out with cleaning, then tumbling may be the only solution.
 

Harry Pristis

Bronze Member
Feb 5, 2009
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Northcentral Florida
Oxalic acid is plenty strong . . . you can mix it to whatever strength you need. Muriatic acid is dangerous to work with, and is overkill in most cases. Vinegar is enough to cut through limey deposits, and I would start with that.

If vinegar has no effect, you probably have etching of the glass for which there is no chemical cure. Tumble-polishing is your recourse then.
 

OP
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bullgill

bullgill

Full Member
Jun 8, 2014
165
169
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I am going to pick up some #0000 steel wool and give that a try. I am trying to figure out the best brush handle to use with the steel wool. I may make one from wood, put a little curve in it so the sides of the bottles will be easier to reach. Unless I find one on the internet that would work with the steel wool. Also I will give the muriatic acid a go as well.

I would love to build a bottle tumbler but the cost of electricity and polishing compounds turns me off, if it will cost $20 in electricity and polishing compounds to polish a milk bottle it would not be worth it. I may build one in the future if I start finding allot of really special bottles. I think if I can not clean the bottles chemically I will just keep them till I can figure out a way to get them polished. If the cost in electricity and polishing compounds is more near $5 it would make sense to tumble them. I have no problem spending money to build the polisher but if it costs what I think it does for every bottle, no way unless it is a $100 bottle.
 

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