I'm a Canadian coin hunting in Canada using MXT E series in the coin-ring setting. I haven't been at this long but it appears that Canadian coins except the old silver coins and the newer pennies don't register like American coins. I found a American quarter two days back and it came through loud and clear. A Canadian quarter barley makes any sound and usually comes up as a pull tab. Anybody out there got any suggestions on settings to get Canadian coins? any help would be appreciated.
Canadain coins
- Thread starter Canuck12
- Start date
Newfiehunter
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Jim is right. Metal detectors are calibrated for American coins, since Canadian coins are made of nickel, they will come up as pulltabs. One good thing though, if you dig for the Canadian coins, you will improve your chances in finding gold rings, since they register in almost the same category. So don't ignore ignore those pulltab signals.
Jim Hemmingway
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Hi Badfrog,
How did you come up with that name? Well it 's definitely going to fit in here.
Some general thoughts on the matter:
(1) make a point of using the original programs to create your own customized programs, label and save them so you know what they are for ie parks, prospecting, the beach, relic hunting and so on. This step helps to eliminate fooling around on site with the menu system, since you can use the shortcut keys, especially the up/down keys to return to your last menu parameter setting. In the field, normally I then only adjust the AC Sensitivity according to the ground minerals and access it simply by pushing either the up or down arrow key; even here in iron rich ground, I can still use max sens most of the time.
(2) to get an "edge" on depth, I recommend that you adjust your autotrack to track slightly positive (plus one will do fine); not too much, otherwise the ground will sound off as a target whenever you pull the pinpoint trigger to check targets.
(3) run the sensitivity as high as possible without getting unstable operation, which will mostly present itself initially in the guise of jumpy VDI indications.
(4) I prefer modulation on targets, but if you turn it off, all signals will read the same volume regardless of depth...which many do prefer.
(5) pre-amp gain increases the signal strength transmitted and will give you more depth to a point, but don't overdo it or the machine will be unstable, and prone to overloading. Preprogram it in say at a level of 3 to 5 in a separate but otherwise identical "park hunting" custom type mode, so you can try it out occasionally when the mood or need arises.
(6) if the area is not too laden with signals try out the all-metal mode by simply turning off the audio discrimination under basic adjustments; the unit will still give visual ID. This will provide substantively more depth, although the visual ID will not go as deep as the audio (in any mode configuration this is true).
(7) I prefer to avoid using tone ID, as it is not reliable on deeper targets in my highly mineralized soils. Coins at the fringe of discriminate detection can read at plus 95, or jump around erratically, or read as iron when deep. By using straight single tone for signals, it alerts you to at least check it out with your pinpoint trigger to determine the depth. If it's deep, dig it even if the signal is not a two way solid signal...because a deep broken signal may not be the result of your discrimination circuits coming into play, but rather as a results of the circuits inability to discern the target clearly...at that depth.
8. if you're in an iron infested area, ie relic hunting, pay attention to the signagraph for bars on the left side, or, scattered right across the entire screen, for iron ID. The signagraph is very reliable, and more dependable than the audio discrimination for iron ID. The signagraph will continue to present iron info no matter where your disc VDI settings are set at. It's so dependable on large iron, I use it as a backcheck on large iron in mine tailings, to save a lot of digging. I've checked large iron readings innumerable times, and it has always been spot on. The only "if" is that you do have to ensure it's a good solid signal strength (that's regardless of whether it's a broken signal or not, although as you know, a shallow broken audio signal usually indicates trash anyway).
(9) ensure "transmit boost" is always turned on, period.
(10) never use disc VDI settings beyond mid-foil range; use the audio to evaluate the signals, use your meter to determine where the target identifies, and use your judgement to determine whether to dig. I prefer to keep my settings no higher than minus 30 to ensure better depth and cleaner signals, unless it's full of trashy signals, then to save sanity, I'll up the disc to about "plus 9", and no more. Less disc = more depth. Again, set up your custom programs to accomodate these settings, so there's no fooling around with the menu...in the field.
(11) set your threshold to "1" and leave it there. This provides best hearing sensitivity to targets, particularly in the all-metal mode. When using the all metal mode, try leaving the SAT control set to about "8"; reading the manual, you may think that's too high. It isn't, and you will agree once in a typical park setting (with multi-signals everywhere, you will want the quicker speed for better separation of targets). Besides, you'll still get better depth than with the "audio disc" in the on position.
(12) keep bottlecap reject setting very low ie. "1, or 2"; any higher, and you start discing out deeper desirable targets. Try it and you'll agree. The signagraph is usually sufficient to id iron once you learn it. Incidently, leave the "recovery rate at the default setting; if you want better separation, go get a smaller coil. Increasing the recovery rate, decreases depth of detection.
OK...that's about all I can think of for now, without going and trying to find the old manual to check for anything else. Hope you'll keep in touch here and let us know how you're progressing. See ya and good luck
Jim.
How did you come up with that name? Well it 's definitely going to fit in here.
Some general thoughts on the matter:
(1) make a point of using the original programs to create your own customized programs, label and save them so you know what they are for ie parks, prospecting, the beach, relic hunting and so on. This step helps to eliminate fooling around on site with the menu system, since you can use the shortcut keys, especially the up/down keys to return to your last menu parameter setting. In the field, normally I then only adjust the AC Sensitivity according to the ground minerals and access it simply by pushing either the up or down arrow key; even here in iron rich ground, I can still use max sens most of the time.
(2) to get an "edge" on depth, I recommend that you adjust your autotrack to track slightly positive (plus one will do fine); not too much, otherwise the ground will sound off as a target whenever you pull the pinpoint trigger to check targets.
(3) run the sensitivity as high as possible without getting unstable operation, which will mostly present itself initially in the guise of jumpy VDI indications.
(4) I prefer modulation on targets, but if you turn it off, all signals will read the same volume regardless of depth...which many do prefer.
(5) pre-amp gain increases the signal strength transmitted and will give you more depth to a point, but don't overdo it or the machine will be unstable, and prone to overloading. Preprogram it in say at a level of 3 to 5 in a separate but otherwise identical "park hunting" custom type mode, so you can try it out occasionally when the mood or need arises.
(6) if the area is not too laden with signals try out the all-metal mode by simply turning off the audio discrimination under basic adjustments; the unit will still give visual ID. This will provide substantively more depth, although the visual ID will not go as deep as the audio (in any mode configuration this is true).
(7) I prefer to avoid using tone ID, as it is not reliable on deeper targets in my highly mineralized soils. Coins at the fringe of discriminate detection can read at plus 95, or jump around erratically, or read as iron when deep. By using straight single tone for signals, it alerts you to at least check it out with your pinpoint trigger to determine the depth. If it's deep, dig it even if the signal is not a two way solid signal...because a deep broken signal may not be the result of your discrimination circuits coming into play, but rather as a results of the circuits inability to discern the target clearly...at that depth.
8. if you're in an iron infested area, ie relic hunting, pay attention to the signagraph for bars on the left side, or, scattered right across the entire screen, for iron ID. The signagraph is very reliable, and more dependable than the audio discrimination for iron ID. The signagraph will continue to present iron info no matter where your disc VDI settings are set at. It's so dependable on large iron, I use it as a backcheck on large iron in mine tailings, to save a lot of digging. I've checked large iron readings innumerable times, and it has always been spot on. The only "if" is that you do have to ensure it's a good solid signal strength (that's regardless of whether it's a broken signal or not, although as you know, a shallow broken audio signal usually indicates trash anyway).
(9) ensure "transmit boost" is always turned on, period.
(10) never use disc VDI settings beyond mid-foil range; use the audio to evaluate the signals, use your meter to determine where the target identifies, and use your judgement to determine whether to dig. I prefer to keep my settings no higher than minus 30 to ensure better depth and cleaner signals, unless it's full of trashy signals, then to save sanity, I'll up the disc to about "plus 9", and no more. Less disc = more depth. Again, set up your custom programs to accomodate these settings, so there's no fooling around with the menu...in the field.
(11) set your threshold to "1" and leave it there. This provides best hearing sensitivity to targets, particularly in the all-metal mode. When using the all metal mode, try leaving the SAT control set to about "8"; reading the manual, you may think that's too high. It isn't, and you will agree once in a typical park setting (with multi-signals everywhere, you will want the quicker speed for better separation of targets). Besides, you'll still get better depth than with the "audio disc" in the on position.
(12) keep bottlecap reject setting very low ie. "1, or 2"; any higher, and you start discing out deeper desirable targets. Try it and you'll agree. The signagraph is usually sufficient to id iron once you learn it. Incidently, leave the "recovery rate at the default setting; if you want better separation, go get a smaller coil. Increasing the recovery rate, decreases depth of detection.
OK...that's about all I can think of for now, without going and trying to find the old manual to check for anything else. Hope you'll keep in touch here and let us know how you're progressing. See ya and good luck
Jim.
Dan B
Sr. Member
- Sep 16, 2007
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Aren't the latest Canadian coins all steel? Try a magnet and you will find that they all stick, even the pennies. Take a look at this picture. This is a picture someone posted on CanadianMetalDetecting.com
I can't comment on any White's issues, but I'm having great success with my Cortes with Canadian coins. I'm finding more loonies, quarters, nickels (as old as 1936) and dimes than with any other machine I've owned. Even though the ID may indicate a pulltab, while swinging it, the display will jump up once or twice to 95 (which indicates a coin). If I see that 95 once or twice, I always dig. I would say 90% of the time it's either a quarter or a nickel.
Dan
I can't comment on any White's issues, but I'm having great success with my Cortes with Canadian coins. I'm finding more loonies, quarters, nickels (as old as 1936) and dimes than with any other machine I've owned. Even though the ID may indicate a pulltab, while swinging it, the display will jump up once or twice to 95 (which indicates a coin). If I see that 95 once or twice, I always dig. I would say 90% of the time it's either a quarter or a nickel.
Dan
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Dan B
Sr. Member
- Sep 16, 2007
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Hi Jim,
I have no idea when the conversion happened. The sad part is that future generations of metal detector enthusiasts are going to have rusty little discs as their "old coins". I guess we are the lucky generation to still be able to dig real honest-to-goodness copper pennies, real nickel nickels and the occasional silver dimes and quarters.
Dan
I have no idea when the conversion happened. The sad part is that future generations of metal detector enthusiasts are going to have rusty little discs as their "old coins". I guess we are the lucky generation to still be able to dig real honest-to-goodness copper pennies, real nickel nickels and the occasional silver dimes and quarters.
Dan
Newfiehunter
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Hi Dan B
It is sad to say our coinage has changed to steel composition. I was at a beach recently and found coins very similiar to yours. Very rusty. But I am mostly interested in searching older sites to find older coins except when I get gold fever, then I search the beaches and parks . By the way, "Hi" to all of our fellow Canadian hunters.
It is sad to say our coinage has changed to steel composition. I was at a beach recently and found coins very similiar to yours. Very rusty. But I am mostly interested in searching older sites to find older coins except when I get gold fever, then I search the beaches and parks . By the way, "Hi" to all of our fellow Canadian hunters.
Dan B
Sr. Member
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Hi Newfiehunter,
The modern clad is a necessary evil when hunting for old coins. Personally my only interest is old coins, but if I find a ring that's okay too. I found a 1928 nickel the other day, and all little further along I found a 1928 penny. That's what makes my day. Other days I will find nothing older than the early 60's but have $10 in change. That's not such a good day, but it's still a lot of fun.
I would guess that in Newfoundland there must be a lot of really old coins. Then again, the only history of Newfoundland I know is what I learn listening to Great Big Sea songs!
Dan
The modern clad is a necessary evil when hunting for old coins. Personally my only interest is old coins, but if I find a ring that's okay too. I found a 1928 nickel the other day, and all little further along I found a 1928 penny. That's what makes my day. Other days I will find nothing older than the early 60's but have $10 in change. That's not such a good day, but it's still a lot of fun.
I would guess that in Newfoundland there must be a lot of really old coins. Then again, the only history of Newfoundland I know is what I learn listening to Great Big Sea songs!
Dan
Newfiehunter
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Hi Dan B!
Sounds like you're having some success! Great job! Last week I found a 1918 Canadian dime. Great condition. I started this year with a bang finding some great things. Some of my favourite items this year include and an 1882 Newfoundland twenty cent piece, 5 Newfoundland fishscales (silver 5 cents), a Victorian era broach, and 1807 King George 111 penny, and about 20 assorted large Canadian and Newfoundland cents. Been in a slump lately just because it was too hot to hunt. Next week I'm planning to visit some places going back to the 1600's!! Wish me luck!
Sounds like you're having some success! Great job!
Last week I found a 1918 Canadian dime. Great condition. I started this year with a bang finding some great things. Some of my favourite items this year include and an 1882 Newfoundland twenty cent piece, 5 Newfoundland fishscales (silver 5 cents), a Victorian era broach, and 1807 King George 111 penny, and about 20 assorted large Canadian and Newfoundland cents. Been in a slump lately just because it was too hot to hunt. Next week I'm planning to visit some places going back to the 1600's!! Wish me luck!Dan B
Sr. Member
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1600's
Now I'm jealous!!
Good luck there, and let us know what you find, or better yet, post some pictures.
Dan
Now I'm jealous!!
Good luck there, and let us know what you find, or better yet, post some pictures.
Dan
Newfiehunter
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Sure will Dan!
DirtDevil
Jr. Member
Re: Canadian coins
I've been detecting now for about 3 years in a Southern Ontario city. All I dig up is Canadian coins. Having both the Whites Prizm IV and the X-Terra 50, I have to dig everything from iron scale and up, in other words turn off your discrimination and listen carefully to your multi-tone detector. Due to the mixture of metals in a Canadian coin they will have a unique muti-tone sound. On edge they will read as iron, with maybe an occasional quick high-tone. The benefit of detecting with no discrimination is finding more Canadian coins and jewelery, which is what we're all after anyways, right? I've also dug up Canadian coins that only show up solid as iron or -6 on my detectors, no matter what angle I approach it at. Pinpointing will help you to determine the size of the object if it may be a coin. Practice makes perfect.
Here is more info on the makeup of a Canadian coin:
http://www.coinscan.com/technical/canasp.html
Improve your chances. If it beeps, dig it! You just never know
I've been detecting now for about 3 years in a Southern Ontario city. All I dig up is Canadian coins. Having both the Whites Prizm IV and the X-Terra 50, I have to dig everything from iron scale and up, in other words turn off your discrimination and listen carefully to your multi-tone detector. Due to the mixture of metals in a Canadian coin they will have a unique muti-tone sound. On edge they will read as iron, with maybe an occasional quick high-tone. The benefit of detecting with no discrimination is finding more Canadian coins and jewelery, which is what we're all after anyways, right? I've also dug up Canadian coins that only show up solid as iron or -6 on my detectors, no matter what angle I approach it at. Pinpointing will help you to determine the size of the object if it may be a coin. Practice makes perfect.
Here is more info on the makeup of a Canadian coin:
http://www.coinscan.com/technical/canasp.html
Improve your chances. If it beeps, dig it! You just never know
riverite
Full Member
Gotta agree with most of the comments on this post . the nickel content sure screws things up , unless you run iron you will miss lots of coins. I use a sniper coil with my ace and most modern canadian coins other than pennies show as iron on the front half of the coil . and as coin on the back half , lots of bouncing signals and playing with sensitivity is no help at all, just digging every signal is the only way to go , that means plenty of trash and the odd bonus find , one more point .the higher nickel content helps to keep the clad in better condition than US coins and does not tarnish as bad.I spend a lot of time in the US and their clad pennies are zink core with copper plate if scratched a nasty combination , add one more element and a nick they are history, see the pics these coins are less than ten years old
The quarters tarnish real bad and are very hard to clean. I am not knocking US coins just pointing out the benefit of high nickel content , helps make up for all the extra digging, just wish Canadian coin collecting was more interesting and still looking foreward to hunting again in the US later this year
The quarters tarnish real bad and are very hard to clean. I am not knocking US coins just pointing out the benefit of high nickel content , helps make up for all the extra digging, just wish Canadian coin collecting was more interesting and still looking foreward to hunting again in the US later this year
Iron Patch
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Dan B said:1600's
Now I'm jealous!!
Good luck there, and let us know what you find, or better yet, post some pictures.
Dan
I think you would have to be very lucky to find detectable sites dating to the 1600s. Should you do it would be very interesting. My earliest sites are about 1720 or 30s but fifty or so years previous to that would give a very different selection of finds and I'd be very curious to see what would pop up.
Rick (Nova Scotia)
Silver Member
Jim H. wrote
"Hi Dan,
Glad to make your acquaintance Dan. It's good to meet other Canadians on our own sub-forum to exchange ideas.
Just noticed your post. Jeez, those coins look terrible. Rust means steel, so you are spot on. Going to have to get a new Canada coin book to keep up with what they're doing with the composition. When did they switch from nickel quarters and dimes over to steel as far as you know?
Jim."
Anyway Canadian dimes changed to nickel plated steel in 2000 and quarters in 2001.
I'm glad to meet you too Jim, seeing your line up of arsenal I figured you for a prospector. I also have a gold bug 2. What part of the country do you hang that fine hat in Jim ??
Rick
"Hi Dan,
Glad to make your acquaintance Dan. It's good to meet other Canadians on our own sub-forum to exchange ideas.
Just noticed your post. Jeez, those coins look terrible. Rust means steel, so you are spot on. Going to have to get a new Canada coin book to keep up with what they're doing with the composition. When did they switch from nickel quarters and dimes over to steel as far as you know?
Jim."
Anyway Canadian dimes changed to nickel plated steel in 2000 and quarters in 2001.
I'm glad to meet you too Jim, seeing your line up of arsenal I figured you for a prospector. I also have a gold bug 2. What part of the country do you hang that fine hat in Jim ??
Rick
ivan salis
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very pure nickle in and of itself is magnetic just like the steel based coinage dime and quarters are ---american coin sorting machines --use magnets to cull the canadain coins out the overall batch of coins dumped into the american coin counting machines -- like coinstar * --because they stick to a magnet placed before the coin sorter counter area in the machine . --it also catches other items like paperclips and screws and such .
Yard Waste
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I don't have direct experience ( I will later in the year after I unwrap my Xmas gift) but apparentely the EURO model of the Garret 250 will find Canadian coins. . I bought it after my phone conversation with the dealer after we explored a few detectors that were on my short list, in fact the Euro wasn't even on my radar.
(from the Site I purchased it from--I am not a dealer just a newbie to this hobby)
"Garrett's NEW Euro Ace. More depth, better tone ID and picks up the newer canadian 1$ and 2$ coins which have been a problem in the past. Garrett latest metal detector,which was designed specifically for international detectorists, including those of Canada, Europe and the UK. Users who have enjoyed the power and performance of an ACE 250 will certainly be interested in the new technology offered by Garrett’s new EuroACE. This detector provides powerful new search advantages for coin and jewelry hunters, prospectors and relic hunters."
(from the Site I purchased it from--I am not a dealer just a newbie to this hobby)
"Garrett's NEW Euro Ace. More depth, better tone ID and picks up the newer canadian 1$ and 2$ coins which have been a problem in the past. Garrett latest metal detector,which was designed specifically for international detectorists, including those of Canada, Europe and the UK. Users who have enjoyed the power and performance of an ACE 250 will certainly be interested in the new technology offered by Garrett’s new EuroACE. This detector provides powerful new search advantages for coin and jewelry hunters, prospectors and relic hunters."
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