A nickel for your thoughts.

[DustDevilMarc]

I have been going through boxes of nickels and find an occasional silver war nickel, or little more rarely, a buffalo nickel. That is all well and good.

My question is: Is there any reason to keep the non-silver nickels dated 1938-1949? They are not all that common, but when you go though a bunch boxes of nickels, one can accumulate rather large numbers of these coins.

So what do you think? Keep the non-silver, non-buffalo nickels from the 30s and 40s or give them back to the bank?

 

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[ThePt78Gamer]

I personally would give them back. There isnt much to look for outside of war nicks, V nicks, and buffalos, but be on the lookout for 1950 D nicks, and proofs. I used to keep anything 59' and back, but after seeing how many there are out there I dumped them and that upped my bankroll by 50$. Keep what you want, that is just what I would do. Been hitting the nickels good lately myself and have found a lot of good stuff lately. Including my first V nickel a few days ago dated 1898. If you want a solid denomination to search, just stay away from Quarters hahaha.

 

[WheatWaffle]

I personally keep the 1938-1942 nickels before the silver war nickels as I'm averaging around 7-8 per box.

 

[exnatomp]

There are a number of Jefferson nickel mintages that are less than 10 million and they usually command a premium by collectors. I pull those when I find them which usually totals about a dozen per year, so it's not that big of an investment. If and when I do decide to sell, there is potential to make a profit of several times face value. And if they don't generate any interest, then I dump them and get my money back without a loss. My suggestion is to get the Buffalo and Jefferson nickel red book by Whitman.

 

[port ewen ace]

38D&S, 39D&S, 50D, 39 no MM doubled mont. &cents, 54D D over S, 55S S over D, 83P prone to DIE CLASHES and CUDS, '05 Bison P&D D speared die crack from D to rump, P drooling bison die crack, also both P&D may have large areas of outer layer peeling or missing on both sides, I have found 2 Bisons with major lamination defects. 82P&D that are full steps,83P&D full steps, all '38-'72 that are MS with full steps. off center strikes, greasers, any and all errors that are not post mint damage. spend $15 on a REDBOOK, make a cheat sheet on coins that are higher value then memorize the list. check my ebay sold listings, user name in tnet profile, I sold 5 error nics for $70- $75 in the past few months. be careful with CWR's as most people are unable to count to 40 and get a thrill out of cheating the bank out of 37 cents. hope this helps you, good luck and be sure to wash your hands

 

[CoinFetcher]

and wash your hands, love it.

 

[Spizzerinctum]

My lcs has a monthly bid-board/auction for customers to sell items of their choice. He does not charge for this and it has been serving to increase visits to his store. So I started keeping pre 60 nickels that are in decent condition. I put 5 rolls at a time on the bid-board with a minimum bid of $12 and usually someone will bid $13 or $14. I just wait until I've got enough profit and buy something silver.

 

[Will45]

I keep the 38s and look for the double dyes on the 39s

 

[enamel7]

I keep the 38s and look for the double dyes on the 39s

Doubled dies is the correct term.

 

[Will45]

Doubled dies is the correct term.

my bad