Just Cleaned my Ryedale Sorter after 250,000 coins.

Ryedale

Jr. Member
Feb 3, 2007
58
1
Kalamazoo MI
Detector(s) used
Whites MXT
That sound about right,
After each 250,000 to 300,000 coins, it is important to clean it. I start by separating the main hopper from the lower drive unit at the "parting line" of the Hopper/Feeder. Then gently lifting the "holy disc" from the drive mechanism, I look at the bottom of it, being careful not to lose the black ring bearing/spacer. This spacer is lubricated with White Lithium, and is usually in good shape.
The bottom of the disc is usually very dirty with "coin crud" which is a copper or brown colored greasy sticky mixture of everything that can be on a coin. I don't even want to know what it is. I use a sharp small pointed object like a small pocket knife, and Dish soap and water, and clean this disc back to the original plastic, carefully scraping this crud from the feed holes and "coin feed cam faces" (there are 5 holes so 5 coin feed cam faces on the underside of the disc.) that build up this crud. Once you get through the bulk of the crud, you can use a stiff bristle (like a fingernail or toothbrush) to gently scrub the crud from the corners. You will just see the original black molded plastic at this point. It is important not to scrape base plastic away, only the dirt, so procede with caution. After all the crud is gone, you can blow the disc dry with compressed air. Remember do not remove the White Lithium from the center black ring bearing/spacer, or if you do you can get a can of it at the automotive store to re-lubricate the black spacer bearing, and apply a new THIN layer of it to that center part. To clean under the holy disc, use a paper towel and windex or a light or slow solvents like "mineral spirits" or "naptha". DO NOT use fast solvents like acetone, toluene or lacquer thinner on the machine parts, or it might ruin the plastic parts by dissolving them slightly. Even when using slow solvents, be sure to get rid of the excess before it has a chance to soften components.
I use a product called DRI SLIDE to lubricate the spring and pawl (called the SnP assembly) it is a light solvent with platelets of Molybdenum floating around. I put a good bead of this on the SnP parts below the bridge plate, and then work it in with a small screwdriver. Mop up the excess. I also put a dab on the metal marble that is below the "holy Disc" and let it work down below. Dri Slide is good because once the solvent "carrier" is evaporated, all that is left is the Moly Platelets and it tends not to attract additional grit and debris from the coins. Any other brands of lube that have the same properties, would probably be acceptable. Keep the principal of not attracting debris, when selecting a lubricant. I have also tried a product called superlube, which is a silicone grease. It seems to work good, but more tiny parts have to be taken apart in the SnP to properly use this lube, as it is more like a grease, and tends not to "flow" into the critical components like the Dri Slide.
One other thing to look for while cleaning is to look at the outside of the SnP assembly, look for a ring of coin crud on the smaller of the two little cylinders and wipe it off with a towel and some Windex or slow[/i]]slow solvent.
I like to use Windex or soap and water on the coin chutes, as they do not soften the Lexan in-feed chute. Also Pipe cleaners and Q-tips are good for the coin channel down through the discriminator. Use a Q-tip to clean the back of the "slap plate" at the bottom of the infeed chute.
In my instructions, it talks about the use of Silicone Aerosol Lubricant for the chutes. I have found since writing the instruction in April of 2007. I have nearly abandoned the use of silicone lubricants on the chutes. Here's why. I think any lube on the chute tends to attract "coin crud" including lint, grit, and general dirt. A clean dry chute is best. If you do use silicone on the chute, have the chute in your hand, spray a light layer and then immediately blow on the chute with compressed air or from your mouth. This quickly evaporates the "carrier" out of the silicone spray, which I think is called "eno-Ether" ( I believe an exotic type of alcohol) The reason you want to get rid of the carrier is that like other "fast" solvents, it tends to cloud the clear plastic chute. You can get silicone aerosols at the auto parts store almost anywhere. Remember use only a light amount of it.
Compressed air is a great all around way to clean bulk debris from a coin machine, and dry the wheel after a good bath.
One last thought. I have read from other "mass" sorters from before the melt ban, the big operators even with "commercial" grade equipment had to clean the super sorters every 45 minutes of operation, or they would fail. Coins are very dirty, but with proper care and cleaning on interval your machine should work great. Thanks for starting this thread.

I see a lot of attention/comments given to the machine lately and it has contributed to quite a few sales. I want to thank everyone here for the feedback on it. I will continue to support it as well as I can. Again Thanks to all who are using it, and who have commented on it openly and honestly. If any of you have any remarkable discoveries about the machine, that I do not cover in the instructions and want to share, I welcome them all, as I cannot claim to "know it all" about my own machine, it's a work in progress and I'm open to suggestions and input. Cannot guarantee any changes but it helps.
Sometime in 2008 I hope to have an automatic stop option. This way when the machine senses a jam, it stops the feeder, and you can walk away from it while feeding and sorting without worrying. It's a difficult problem, but I've got a couple people working on it now. I will try to engineer it as a "retrofit" as well, so current an soon to be owners can add it to their machines.
 

jrf30

Bronze Member
May 7, 2006
1,839
299
CO, AZ
Detector(s) used
dfx, Ryedale!
Now you have me scared...

<<Then gently lifting the "holy disc" from the drive mechanism, I look at the bottom of it, being careful not to lose the black ring bearing/spacer. This spacer is lubricated with White Lithium, and is usually in good shape. >>

gently? the holy disc?

Man, I can't even change the oil in my truck, much less try to clean this. It worries me some too. I'll try, when i get to that level, but I give myself a 70% chance that I'll screw it up and not be able to get it working again.

I"m very good at making investors money, but I SUCK when it comes to mehcanical things. really suck. So when I clean my nachine for teh first time or two, expect a panic phone call. :-D

JRF
 

OP
OP
C

coincollector101

Hero Member
May 8, 2007
534
3
Thanks Andy For a Great Product!!

I could not find any DRI SLIDE at home Depot.
So I got Liquid Wrench, Its about the same thing If im not Mistaking.
every thing's running fast and smooth.
Have you tried that Andy?

I still Get Chute jams time to time "Bugs me" I got to find the sweet spot for the chute alignment.

CC
 

OP
OP
C

coincollector101

Hero Member
May 8, 2007
534
3
jrf30 said:
Now you have me scared...

<<Then gently lifting the "holy disc" from the drive mechanism, I look at the bottom of it, being careful not to lose the black ring bearing/spacer. This spacer is lubricated with White Lithium, and is usually in good shape. >>

gently? the holy disc?

Man, I can't even change the oil in my truck, much less try to clean this. It worries me some too. I'll try, when i get to that level, but I give myself a 70% chance that I'll screw it up and not be able to get it working again.

I"m very good at making investors money, but I SUCK when it comes to mehcanical things. really suck. So when I clean my nachine for teh first time or two, expect a panic phone call. :-D

JRF

Dont worrie Jrf,
Its easy, You got the instructions with your machine. I Know you can do it!!

CC
 

Ryedale

Jr. Member
Feb 3, 2007
58
1
Kalamazoo MI
Detector(s) used
Whites MXT
jrf30 said:
Now you have me scared...

<<Then gently lifting the "holy disc" from the drive mechanism, I look at the bottom of it, being careful not to lose the black ring bearing/spacer. This spacer is lubricated with White Lithium, and is usually in good shape. >>

gently? the holy disc?

Man, I can't even change the oil in my truck, much less try to clean this. It worries me some too. I'll try, when i get to that level, but I give myself a 70% chance that I'll screw it up and not be able to get it working again.

I"m very good at making investors money, but I SUCK when it comes to mehcanical things. really suck. So when I clean my nachine for teh first time or two, expect a panic phone call. :-D

JRF

Oh don't worry. I probably make it sound more complicated than it is. I'll be standing by for your phone call. I'm learning that the more I publish about the machine (within reason) it saves me exponential time with each individual customer. I think this is a trend in industry, as you can usually get technical manuals (pdf format) from most component manufacturers from their websites.
The intent of my open post about cleaning is to offer tips and instructions for most users. I understand fully that there are many levels of mechanical ability, and I only wish I had the financial skills that you posses. The coin filth does make using the machines a bit of an interactive experience.
I'm planning to add this to the website someday when time permits.
 

Ryedale

Jr. Member
Feb 3, 2007
58
1
Kalamazoo MI
Detector(s) used
Whites MXT
coincollector101 said:
Thanks Andy For a Great Product!!

I could not find any DRI SLIDE at home Depot.
So I got Liquid Wrench, Its about the same thing If im not Mistaking.
every thing's running fast and smooth.
Have you tried that Andy?

I still Get Chute jams time to time "Bugs me" I got to find the sweet spot for the chute alignment.

CC
It may be a similar product, but I don't have any direct experience with it on the sorters. I used it a lot growing up, loosening rusted bolts, my Dad swore by it. If it has the moly and the "liquid" is able to evaporate away, it should be fine. Key being you dont want heavy oils that tend to attract more lint, dirt etc. Even if it did you will just have to clean a bit more often. I'll have to pick up a can of it, as I know it's much more available, and test it. Perhaps it is just as good.
Yeah the "unexplained jamms" are annoying, but they are a good indicator of something else wrong. Keep the numbers in mind from the manual.
 

TxTim

Silver Member
Jan 14, 2007
2,735
27
Texas
Detector(s) used
DFX & SE
Awesome!!
Now that's what I call support - thanks Andy!!!
 

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OP
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coincollector101

Hero Member
May 8, 2007
534
3
Sounds good andy,

It says on it not a oil Product, Dries Fast is not sticky or Grimy,does not Attract dirt.
I put some on the chute it made it slick as butter.
my dad Picked it up so im not sure on the price but im sure it would be cheaper and more available then the other lube. thanks for Comparing them for us Im sure this will help lots of people out if its better to find a quality lube easier and cheaper.

You Have a Wonderful Product and great support.

CC
 

cyberdan

Silver Member
Dec 12, 2006
4,596
2,220
Very Northern Left Coast
Detector(s) used
XLT & Bigfoot
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
coincollector101 said:
I still Get Chute jams time to time "Bugs me" I got to find the sweet spot for the chute alignment.
101, make sure the clear "slide" is seated all the way down. I had a jam yesterday and had to pull the slide to remove a coin. I did not replace it low enough and it kept jamming again till I realized what was needed. Works like a charm right now.

I am going to run my junk zincers through tonight and see if I can calibrate it to "reject" the older wheats that tricked the machine into thinking they were copper. (they have some metals in them that makes them read zinc)
 

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