Pounds of Iron, Ounces of Silver, and Grams of Gold

billjustbill

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Feb 23, 2008
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This past weekend had it's local monthly flea market, where I found a large, 5ft.+ Disston "ICE Saw", but not before going to a neighborhood wide garage sale from 8:00 to 2:00 just a mile away. There, I found treasure of a different kind; a old worn but functional grade anvil.

The seller's home look like any other in that neighborhood. When I asked about old tools, he said he had his father-in-law's old anvil. He voiced a rather firm statement that he thought it weighed about 125lbs and wanted $1 a pound.... I quickly said, "Okay, can I look at it?!"

Worn and rusty, I paid him his asking price and told him I had to go get my two-wheel dolly and my pickup, so I'd be back later in the afternoon. Old anvils are hard to find. They usually sell for a minimum of $2-$3 a pound for this worn-but solid quality, not because of scrap prices, but collectors buy them by the maker and by the weight.


Coming back from the flea market about 4:00 p.m. that afternoon, it took me, the older seller, and his "younger than both of us" neighbor to get it up high enough to get it onto some padded moving blankets and into the pickup bed. It was the heaviest 125 pounds I've ever lifted.... Scooting something this heavy across the pickup bed would peal away the spray-on lining as quick as pealing an orange.... the moving blankets came from a last month garage sale's "Free Box"...

When I got it back home, I scraped away some of the surface rust (it was actually still wet from the rains because its home was sitting outside his little workshop on top of a large cross section of old telephone pole). I wiped it down with a wet section of the padded blanket. I re-wet one side. There was something familiar about the markings and letters appearing out from under the rust. There was enough of the same series of alphabet letters to show up when I knew I had seen these markings before. Years after his passing, I brought home and began scraping rust and old paint from my Grandfather then Dad's old broken anvil I banged on as a kid! The anvil company's name is actually "Mouse Hole Forge". In its day, a very well known anvil maker outside of Sheffield, England. This newest find had the same markings! Way back in history, England's stamping system was measured in "Stone Weights". Stamped on one of this anvil's sides were these
LARGE numbers: "2 - 0 - 22"


In our present day weights, it says when it left the foundry in England, it weighed 246 lbs... I'm still working on its age.

With all the COVID issues, and my wife's knee surgeries and then lower back injections, all with multiple rehabs, these adventures are good for morale and help keep the economy's worries and all that's coming with it in a little more of a balanced outlook...

The Rest of the Story....

The adventures began on a Thursday before the weekend sales usually begin, two weeks ago. Here are pics of the Sterling silverware I found for $10 at a professional company's estate sale... There are 30 silverware pieces for six place settings with 5 pieces per place. You usually don't find Sterling with just six place setting, nor with the long handle tea spoons. The knife handles are hollow, but the stainless steel blade tangs are inside the silver handles that are filled with an inert material. Only the Sterling shell contains a conservative estimate of 23 grams of silver each, but it's a much thicker silver than the thin "Weighted Sterling" shells found on candlestick pieces usually filled with plaster.


At a garage sale, my wife and I both go through baggies of old jewelry when we see some. She looks for the old 50's rhinestone costume jewelry and I look for her while I look for sterling and gold. We were early and saw that most each bag was $1. So, for about $5 worth of baggies mixed in with what she bought, there was 9.9 grams of 14kt gold jewelry. When refined, it's worth $330. Then, the $10 bag of Sterling tableware weighed 31 Troy ozs. of Sterling has 29 Troy oz. of refined .999 pure silver. Worth is about $750. This kind of hobby" pays for the weekly gasoline to go to them, enough to buy an old anvil and an ice saw I wouldn't normally buy for myself, and still have 'some' left over.

The adrenaline rush is just about priceless... ;>)
 

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Last edited:

GoDeep

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tamrock

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Nice treasure find.
 

pepperj

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One might say "You Scored!" Very nice anvil that looks pretty good. The horn is in good shape, notice a slight sway and a chip on the face edge. What's the build up on the back edge-just rust?
Have you done a rebound test yet on it? Here is a copy of the testing if you haven't.

“Rebound” is the name given to the amount of energy an anvil reflects back at the user. But it can give a good indication of face plate problems.

Take your 1” ball bearing (Larger or smaller it doesn’t really matter.) and your ruler. Now hold the ball at 10” above the anvil face and drop it. It’s best to do this so you can see how high it bounces.

10” is ideal as it’s very easy to do the math for it. A “good” anvil should have more than 70-75% rebound. So the ball should bounce a minimum of 7” high. Many anvils will produce rebound higher than this but anything drastically less should be approached with caution.

This is where cleaning the anvil face makes a big difference. Paint and thick layers of rust WILL drastically reduce rebound, so clean the face if you can.

Like the ring test, you should check rebound all over the face. The heel will have less rebound than the face, just like the ring there is less material there so it behaves differently.

The rebound should be the same across the whole face. An areas where it suddenly rebounds a lot less may indicate a crack or delamination. If this occurs during the testing then have another good look at the anvil. (Common sense) It may be that there is a significant crack you missed initially so proceed accordingly.

As frustrating and disappointing as it it. (Trust me, I know) You are better off in the long run to save your cash and walk away from an anvil that is too damaged to be usable.


 

pepperj

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BTW: Nice looking ice saw, just need a set of tongs and they'll make a great display.
 

No gold in NY

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BTW: Nice looking ice saw, just need a set of tongs and they'll make a great display.

Boy, do I have a nice set of tongs. They were painted a long, long time ago or have some of the origional paint.
 

artslinger

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Congratulations, all great scores! Beautiful Anvil, and the gold, just amazing! Garage sale hunting is a real morale booster, not to mention fun! :-)

Artslinger
 

bigcaddy64

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That is a nice anvil. I’ll see if I can dig out my book on them and give you some more info.

My dad has been a hobby blacksmith for 30+ years and I’ve kept an eye out for anvils to fuel his collection and hobby. It’s rare enough to find a 100+ pounder so you did quite well with a 200+. In nearly 12 years of looking, I’ve found 4.

If you didn’t already know, the mouse hole is the small cavity found beneath the horn/heel as they forge the solid billet of steel into its final shape.

Give it a cleaning and linseed oil treatment to make it like new again. You can even lightly sand it to shine it up the working surfaces again.
 

OP
OP
billjustbill

billjustbill

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Thanks for the information! I'll have some time in the next few weeks to tryout the tips.
 

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billjustbill

billjustbill

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That is a nice anvil. I’ll see if I can dig out my book on them and give you some more info.

My dad has been a hobby blacksmith for 30+ years and I’ve kept an eye out for anvils to fuel his collection and hobby. It’s rare enough to find a 100+ pounder so you did quite well with a 200+. In nearly 12 years of looking, I’ve found 4.

If you didn’t already know, the mouse hole is the small cavity found beneath the horn/heel as they forge the solid billet of steel into its final shape.

Give it a cleaning and linseed oil treatment to make it like new again. You can even lightly sand it to shine it up the working surfaces again.

What seems to be the best cleaner on this type of metal?
The Linseed Oil treatment sounds interesting.
Is there something added to it to get it to not stay wet or sticky?
 

OP
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billjustbill

billjustbill

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I posted "The Rest of the Story" in Blue....
 

pepperj

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What seems to be the best cleaner on this type of metal?
The Linseed Oil treatment sounds interesting.
Is there something added to it to get it to not stay wet or sticky?

I use pure Linseed oil-not the ones that are commonly sold through the box stores. It dries to a fine looking finish that prevents rust. Great for wood handles/metal of all sorts. I get the large totes that the linseed is shipped in and they have the food grade symbol on the containers-NO ADDITIVES.
The products made in NA are full of drying agents, chemicals, nasty things to change up the drying process of the Linseed oil.

I strongly recommend the Allback Linseed oils boiled/natural as I have been using the product for a decade now and never been disappointed.
https://linoljeprodukter.se/international/
 

pepperj

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Here is a quick example of just brushing off dirt, soaking the ball in the linseed for a few days, letting it dry for a few days.
20200712_185056.jpg 20200715_175323.jpg
 

randazzo1

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Great day. Very eclectic!
 

bigcaddy64

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Here’s a Soderfors i cleaned and applied some linseed oil to. It had about 15 layers of paint on it which I chemically stripped off and dressed the faces with very fine sanding belts. Fresh rubber pads beneath the base and it was ready for many more years of use.

That one was found at an estate sale on the 2nd day for 50 bucks. I still couldn’t believe it was still there
 

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Sod Buster

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An anvil like that would go for $400 to $500 minimum at an auction around here. The things are like gold.
 

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