I have been using the blue bowl to capture all my gold 30 mesh and smaller. It works real good but it takes forever. Does anyone here have any onther methods that might be faster. Thanks.
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fine gold 30 mesh and smaller
- Thread starter mu50stang
- Start date
Hoser John
Gold Member
Methodology is the answer. I hope you threw away the instructions as purt' near worthless-John
Klondikeike
Full Member
- Aug 13, 2010
- 247
- 36
- Detector(s) used
- H3 element detector, JeoHunter Dual 3-D Imaging Detector
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
Hey mu50stang...
Klondike here....
Here is something I built several years ago and used it often.....I no longer have any pictures of it, so I'll just describe it to you.. it will sound funny.. but it was very effective.
First thing, screen the cons to 1/4 inch or smaller...
Second... find a used utility tub at a garage sale.. or buy one new, but they are kind of spendy new....
Next ... within a inch or two from the top and next to a corner... cut a hole with a hole saw.. and securely mount a 1/2 inch pipe...screwing on a valve to control water pressure and flow... On both ends, screw on an adapter from NIP thread to water hose bib..... On the outside water connection, connect a water source from either a faucet or a fresh water pump...
On the inside water connection, connect a small flexible hose, about 2 feet long...
For the drain, use several, 4 or 5 washers under the flare of the drain pipe and tighten securely.... then attach a 90 degree drain pipe out to about 2 inches past the outside wall of the utility tub...
The using 2 easy panner sluices or equivalent... stacked back to back into one long sluice.....I built a simple wood frame for the top mounting and bottom mounting of the sluices, so the top most part of the top sluice was just under the extended drain pipe.. be sure to flatten the drain pipe end some. it helps spread out the water flow...
With the washers under the flare of the drain pipe inside the the tub bottom, causes a small lip to appead, forcing anything washed to have lift up and over to escape the tub....
Now turn your water on, adjust your flow with the valve.. and begin to shovel, slowly your cons into the tub.. the water will cause everything to "whirlpool" around and around..washing the lighter things over the lip of the drain and into the drain... the sluice boxes are just there for extra security for anything that might be washed over the lip....
With a little practice and using this contraption, you'll get the hang of it....it works very well.. and you can go through cons rather quickly...
It is inexpensive to build, light weight ... and works well...
Good luck...
Klondike...
Klondike here....
Here is something I built several years ago and used it often.....I no longer have any pictures of it, so I'll just describe it to you.. it will sound funny.. but it was very effective.
First thing, screen the cons to 1/4 inch or smaller...
Second... find a used utility tub at a garage sale.. or buy one new, but they are kind of spendy new....
Next ... within a inch or two from the top and next to a corner... cut a hole with a hole saw.. and securely mount a 1/2 inch pipe...screwing on a valve to control water pressure and flow... On both ends, screw on an adapter from NIP thread to water hose bib..... On the outside water connection, connect a water source from either a faucet or a fresh water pump...
On the inside water connection, connect a small flexible hose, about 2 feet long...
For the drain, use several, 4 or 5 washers under the flare of the drain pipe and tighten securely.... then attach a 90 degree drain pipe out to about 2 inches past the outside wall of the utility tub...
The using 2 easy panner sluices or equivalent... stacked back to back into one long sluice.....I built a simple wood frame for the top mounting and bottom mounting of the sluices, so the top most part of the top sluice was just under the extended drain pipe.. be sure to flatten the drain pipe end some. it helps spread out the water flow...
With the washers under the flare of the drain pipe inside the the tub bottom, causes a small lip to appead, forcing anything washed to have lift up and over to escape the tub....
Now turn your water on, adjust your flow with the valve.. and begin to shovel, slowly your cons into the tub.. the water will cause everything to "whirlpool" around and around..washing the lighter things over the lip of the drain and into the drain... the sluice boxes are just there for extra security for anything that might be washed over the lip....
With a little practice and using this contraption, you'll get the hang of it....it works very well.. and you can go through cons rather quickly...
It is inexpensive to build, light weight ... and works well...
Good luck...
Klondike...
- Jun 26, 2008
- 7,735
- 10,996
- Detector(s) used
- Ace 250 (2), Ace 300, Gold Bug 2, Tesoro Cortes, Garrett Sea Hunter, Whites TDI SL SE, Fisher Impulse 8, Minelab Monster 1000, Minelab CTX3030, Falcon MD20, Garrett Pro-pointer, Calvin Bunker digger.
- Primary Interest:
- Metal Detecting
Mustang... doesn't the blue bowl suggest 20 mesh? I have one but forgot. Much of the gold TimC and I find around Lynx Creek won't pass through a 30 so be alert when using it! TTC
Hoser John
Gold Member
Fun fact--on the dam bowl(blue bowl and frank has continued the tradition) bottom the serial number has been hot stamped so you see how old. When I bought my original dealership in 84/85?? they had the 90's and my newer one I bought in 89 when I retired(still using as of yesterday) has 164. 
best most reliable piece of recovery equipment I ever bought-nuttn' but respect to your Popz(rip) H1-John
best most reliable piece of recovery equipment I ever bought-nuttn' but respect to your Popz(rip) H1-John
- Jun 26, 2008
- 7,735
- 10,996
- Detector(s) used
- Ace 250 (2), Ace 300, Gold Bug 2, Tesoro Cortes, Garrett Sea Hunter, Whites TDI SL SE, Fisher Impulse 8, Minelab Monster 1000, Minelab CTX3030, Falcon MD20, Garrett Pro-pointer, Calvin Bunker digger.
- Primary Interest:
- Metal Detecting
OOPS!...sorry. My GOLD MINER suggests 20 mesh. (my red face will subside in 10 minutes or so) TTC
8KCAB
Guest
- Jul 12, 2011
- 22
- 11
- Detector(s) used
- Tesoro Vaquero
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
Dealing with a lot of cons (> 5gal.) it may be helpful t0 use some time of finishing sluice to make a "super concentrate" and then go to the bowl. I use a Keene "Super Concentrator", but there are many other options out there, including DIY projects using "poop tubes" and different types of matting. The "micro sluice" (I thin it's called) is pretty cheap, and some people set these up in series to reduce loss. The loss from my super concentrator is minimal, and after a bit of testing, I only classify it down to -12 before I run it. Mine goes straight to the crucible after that, but if I was to use the bowl I would crush it up with a pestle and mortar (probably only dealing with less than a cup now), classify +30, -30 - 100, and -100 and then run the bowl. Some guys really classify the heck out of stuff for the bowl - like 5 or more different batches. I've heard that if you really get it super tuned, you can set up an autofeeder for a bowl. I could never walk away from mine without the water level getting too high - then you know stuff is blowing over the top. Good luck!
Here's some -30 in the super concentrator:
Here's some -30 in the super concentrator:
Attachments
russau
Gold Member
if once the autofeeder/BB is setup and running correctly, your bowl shouldnt overflow! i walk away from mine without any worry. but i do rerun everything on any equipment just to check and its useually at a different setting of the autofeeder !
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